[outofphase]

Just noticed this the other day. Not sure if it's new or if I just didn't notice until now.

I've done some minor paint repair and bodywork in the past, but this is the nicest car I've ever owned -- think it's worth it to tackle it myself, or should I take it to a shop?

Any idea how much a shop would charge to repair this spot? It's the only spot on the car where this is happening.

[328iX]

Originally Posted by outofphase

Just noticed this the other day. Not sure if it's new or if I just didn't notice until now.

I've done some minor paint repair and bodywork in the past, but this is the nicest car I've ever owned -- think it's worth it to tackle it myself, or should I take it to a shop?

Any idea how much a shop would charge to repair this spot? It's the only spot on the car where this is happening.

Pretty sure that area could just be sanded and the clear feathered on and blended. Maybe 100-200?

A whole bumper respray around 500-600. but the question is such an open book and varys from location, to the shops products, to their hourly rate, etc.

is this original paint? surprising

[Savageenterprise]

Likely this was repainted before you purchased and the shop that did it just didn't do quality work. Something like this, unless your an auto body person is never a DIY. Take it to a reputable auto body shop and have it done right. A real price without bumper replacement and u not getting screwed should be no more than $350

[Billfitz]

If you have the spray gear and know how to wet sand and rub out paint I'd say give it a shot. If it doesn't work and you end up having a shop do it all you've wasted is your own time.

[outofphase]

Originally Posted by 328dX

is this original paint? surprising

Originally Posted by Savageenterprise

Likely this was repainted before you purchased and the shop that did it just didn't do quality work.

My guess is it is NOT the original paint as the car was in a minor front end collision prior to my purchasing according to the carfax report. Bummer they did a poor job.

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If you have the spray gear and know how to wet sand and rub out paint I'd say give it a shot. If it doesn't work and you end up having a shop do it all you've wasted is your own time.

I like the way you think! I've repaired peeling clear coat before but never on a car this new/nice. I didn't necessarily do poor work before but I was also working on cars where it didn't really matter.

I might try it because like you said, all I'm really at risk of wasting is my own time

What I've basically done in the past is mask the hell outta everything, wash thoroughly, wet sand progressively finer (feathering into the undamaged area) from 800 - 2000 grit, hit it with tack rag + alcohol, spray with 2k clear, and once thoroughly dry, buff+polish+wax the whole area.

Any advice that varies from the above?

Already have all the materials minus the clearcoat, I think it might be worth it to throw $20 at it before throwing hundreds.

[zeikei]

I had a clear coat peel issue with a recent purchase and went to the painter I always use, he said that he will try to blast the clear coat away from the entire repainted part rather than sand and blend just that area where it has peeled now. He said otherwise any stone chip or similar will start peeling it again from next spot.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by outofphase

What I've basically done in the past is mask the hell outta everything, wash thoroughly, wet sand progressively finer from 800 - 2000 grit

You don't want to go that fine with the initial prep. When using clear coat you shouldn't sand at all between the last color coat and the first clear coat, as that reduces adhesion. That could be what happened in this case. To prep that I'd go no finer than 800G. I do my wipe down with lacquer thinner. It's not going to hurt the paint, so long as you don't leave it covered with a rag soaked in it. After spraying the clear coat start with 800G, and go all the way to 3000G, which makes it a lot easier to rub out than 2000G. I wouldn't even use a sander or buffer on an area that small, I'd do it by hand, start to finish would take maybe a half hour. Be very careful on the corner, you can sand right through the clear coat there in nothing flat even by hand.

[outofphase]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

You don't want to go that fine with the initial prep. When using clear coat you shouldn't sand at all between the last color coat and the first clear coat, as that reduces adhesion. That could be what happened in this case. To prep that I'd go no finer than 800G. I do my wipe down with lacquer thinner. It's not going to hurt the paint, so long as you don't leave it covered with a rag soaked in it. After spraying the clear coat start with 800G, and go all the way to 3000G, which makes it a lot easier to rub out than 2000G. I wouldn't even use a sander or buffer on an area that small, I'd do it by hand, start to finish would take maybe a half hour. Be very careful on the corner, you can sand right through the clear coat there in nothing flat even by hand.

Much appreciated man, very good information. Gonna give this a try today potentially. I've been fascinated by paint and body work for a while now, which is part of the reason I want to try to fix it myself. Mechanical work is always rewarding but it's nice to visually see something go from looking like crap to looking clean.

[328iX]

Every shop i've ever had do bodywork on my car came with a lifetime guarantee, maybe you can find what shop did it, or try to contact the last owner and possibly get it free, just an idea.

The shop should have the vin saved whether there's a receipt or not

[ANONYMOUS 4]

Pay a shop and get it done properly

[Billfitz]

There's no need to pay a body shop to do it properly. I've done my own body work for over 40 years...ever since I worked in a body shop.

[Machinebuilder]

I like your thinking. You could give it a shot. It won't be perfect but might be acceptable for your needs. Just be careful not to sand the blue paint away underneath. If you don't like it you could always then take it to a body shop later. Show us after photos. Good luck

[outofphase]

Originally Posted by Machinebuilder

I like your thinking. You could give it a shot. It won't be perfect but might be acceptable for your needs. Just be careful not to sand the blue paint away underneath. If you don't like it you could always then take it to a body shop later. Show us after photos. Good luck

Thanks for the encouragement! Unfortunately I sanded RIGHT through to the bumper. Definitely my fault but at the same token I think there wasn't enough paint left anyway due to whoever had painted it before. Just getting the whole thing resprayed, I have a buddy who works at a body shop so I'm getting a decent deal.

[Machinebuilder]

outofphase Well you gave it try. Your probably right that it wasn't painted correctly initially and thats why it flaked off to begin with and had little paint. When a good body shop paints a bumper or fender it looks like new.