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      07-13-2017, 07:24 AM   #45
Polo08816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Here are labor and procedure quotes from BMW KSD which is used by the dealers to estimate time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xbnb1978x View Post
I want Dinan springs installed in my car and I've gotten quotes from $275 (independent) up to $2,5000 (dealership) . Some of the labor charges are unreal!
See the above post.

I've included BMW labor estimates for each part of the procedure. You can use that for talking about the labor charges with shops.
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      07-18-2017, 11:48 AM   #46
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Getting the stock front struts out of the knuckle (Swivel bearing)and my new Koni yellows back in was a real bitch. Get the spreader tool if you are collecting tools to do the job. Also just want verify that the swivel bearing only gets torqued to 32 ft pounds? It seems not very tight.
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      07-18-2017, 12:26 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post
Getting the stock front struts out of the knuckle (Swivel bearing)and my new Koni yellows back in was a real bitch. Get the spreader tool if you are collecting tools to do the job. Also just want verify that the swivel bearing only gets torqued to 32 ft pounds? It seems not very tight.
Swivel bearing to strut tower? If the bolts are M8 aluminums it's 21 ft-lbs + 90 degrees. If the bolts are M10 steel, it's 41 ft lbs + 90 degrees.

If you're talking about the strut to top hat nu on the front, check the ISTA documents posted on the first page. If I had to guess it's somewhere between 35-45 ft lbs.
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      07-18-2017, 01:48 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Swivel bearing to strut tower? If the bolts are M8 aluminums it's 21 ft-lbs + 90 degrees. If the bolts are M10 steel, it's 41 ft lbs + 90 degrees.

If you're talking about the strut to top hat nu on the front, check the ISTA documents posted on the first page. If I had to guess it's somewhere between 35-45 ft lbs.
The part that the bottom of the strut slides into and you have to spread it to slide it in.
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      07-21-2017, 04:20 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbnb1978x View Post
I want Dinan springs installed in my car and I've gotten quotes from $275 (independent) up to $2,5000 (dealership) . Some of the labor charges are unreal!
Labor quotes will vary a bit but that's a huge range.

If you have the tools, I'd recommend DIY.
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      08-18-2017, 12:28 AM   #50
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      08-22-2017, 12:08 PM   #51
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I still cant decide if I want coilovers or spring/struts!! I have an x drive. I seem to get mixed signals on the forum for what is better.
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      09-08-2017, 11:44 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Labor quotes will vary a bit but that's a huge range.

If you have the tools, I'd recommend DIY.
A local shop did the install for $250 for me minus the alignment l.
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      09-15-2017, 10:17 AM   #53
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Polo08816 Excellent write up! Didn't know APG did BMW DIY events. I wonder if Meade has them as well. Honestly living between the two, I wouldn't mind heading up to APG for some help.
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      09-15-2017, 03:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadsword View Post
Polo08816 Excellent write up! Didn't know APG did BMW DIY events. I wonder if Meade has them as well. Honestly living between the two, I wouldn't mind heading up to APG for some help.
A lot of the people who run the BMW DIY for NCC work on their cars at APG.

Fort Meade has an Auto Skills Center but it's smaller and not nearly as good as APG's.
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      01-20-2018, 09:55 AM   #55
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Subbed. Great info, will be using to install B14's on my car.
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      01-25-2018, 09:57 PM   #56
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good info!
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      02-25-2018, 09:08 PM   #57
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What are you guys using to spread the spindle knuckle?
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      02-26-2018, 04:04 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insane435 View Post
What are you guys using to spread the spindle knuckle?
I used the BMW tool listed in the FSM - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...struts/5H29GxL.

The BMW part number conversion is:
83300494541
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      02-26-2018, 07:44 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
I used the BMW tool listed in the FSM - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...struts/5H29GxL.

The BMW part number conversion is:
83300494541
nice!

Would this work as well? ECS lists it as working on all BMWs.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-autotech.../10012411~aut/
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      02-26-2018, 07:48 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insane435 View Post
nice!

Would this work as well? ECS lists it as working on all BMWs.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-autotech.../10012411~aut/
Yup, that would work as well. They weren't in stock when I had to do my suspension so I went with the BMW tool because the price was comparable.
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      02-26-2018, 07:51 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Yup, that would work as well. They weren't in stock when I had to do my suspension so I went with the BMW tool because the price was comparable.
gotcha, look like a tool that fits into a 10mm (guessing) socket? Is that how your was or was it an actual socket.
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      02-26-2018, 07:54 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insane435 View Post
gotcha, look like a tool that fits into a 10mm (guessing) socket? Is that how your was or was it an actual socket.
I used a box wrench. I can't remember the exact size.
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      03-01-2018, 07:58 AM   #63
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Has anyone swapped out to the Meyle HD sway bar links? Think it would make any difference?
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      03-04-2018, 07:19 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insane435 View Post
Has anyone swapped out to the Meyle HD sway bar links? Think it would make any difference?
I had a good look at the OEM sway bar links when upgrading my rear sway bar. They're surprisingly solid, even though they're made of plastic. I reckon the Meyle HD ones are only meant to be more durable.

OP's post mentions a DIY for rear sway bar install, but I don't see one posted yet. Probably because it's a huge PITA to install and was likely the most difficult DIY I've ever done. That being said, it's worth the effort! The car still understeers at the turning limit, but way less than before.
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      03-04-2018, 07:30 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney921 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Insane435 View Post
Has anyone swapped out to the Meyle HD sway bar links? Think it would make any difference?
I had a good look at the OEM sway bar links when upgrading my rear sway bar. They're surprisingly solid, even though they're made of plastic. I reckon the Meyle HD ones are only meant to be more durable.

OP's post mentions a DIY for rear sway bar install, but I don't see one posted yet. Probably because it's a huge PITA to install and was likely the most difficult DIY I've ever done. That being said, it's worth the effort! The car still understeers at the turning limit, but way less than before.
Did you have to drop the entire rear cradle?

What about the front bar?
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      03-11-2018, 07:41 PM   #66
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Im going to install the coilovers in the next few weeks. Is it possible to install the rear suspension and then drive to a shop with a lift so I can install the front? Or is that not a good idea?
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