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      03-09-2018, 01:47 PM   #221
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Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post
Are you doing the DV+ install yourself? I still have mine in the box as I've been dreading the install. I figured once my stock DV starts degrading and can't hold boost I'll go ahead and make the swap.
Yes, I will do it on the 25th (as that is when my lift is available) and plan on DIY filming the whole thing. Candidly it doesnt look hard, get the car up in the air, belly pan off, and the solonoid SHOULD be right there and available. 3 bolts and it SHOULD be off.

I will do it all and then post the video when I am done.
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      03-09-2018, 01:51 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Yes, I will do it on the 25th (as that is when my lift is available) and plan on DIY filming the whole thing. Candidly it doesnt look hard, get the car up in the air, belly pan off, and the solonoid SHOULD be right there and available. 3 bolts and it SHOULD be off.

I will do it all and then post the video when I am done.
Sounds optimistic

Wish you were AWD so it would be real world install idea for me (not wishing you a rougher install though)
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      03-09-2018, 01:57 PM   #223
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I hope it's that easy. Good luck!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by raichean View Post
Yes, I will do it on the 25th (as that is when my lift is available) and plan on DIY filming the whole thing. Candidly it doesnt look hard, get the car up in the air, belly pan off, and the solonoid SHOULD be right there and available. 3 bolts and it SHOULD be off.

I will do it all and then post the video when I am done.
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      03-09-2018, 02:43 PM   #224
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Here's a nice video from GFB on how the Diverter Valve works:

https://youtu.be/3EgXspDfI08
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      03-09-2018, 03:49 PM   #225
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Just scored the GFB DV+ T9356 for $107 shipped off eBay

Seller accepted $134 offer + there is a 20% off eBay coupon (PSPRING20) good till end of today on anything saving me an xtra $26.80
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      03-09-2018, 04:37 PM   #226
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Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Just scored the GFB DV+ T9356 for $107 shipped off eBay

Seller accepted $134 offer + there is a 20% off eBay coupon (PSPRING20) good till end of today on anything saving me an xtra $26.80
What spring are you using? I think one of them
Can cause CEL
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      03-09-2018, 04:51 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Here's a nice video from GFB on how the Diverter Valve works:

https://youtu.be/3EgXspDfI08
I was curious about these. Does anyone know if it makes a difference if i'm PWG vs EWG? or is this not at all related? Forgive my ignorance on this subject.
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      03-09-2018, 05:11 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
I was curious about these. Does anyone know if it makes a difference if i'm PWG vs EWG? or is this not at all related? Forgive my ignorance on this subject.
The version I bought (T9356) is specifically for EWG AFAIK, don't know if they have a PWG version?


Quote:
What spring are you using? I think of of them
Can cause CEL
Haven't received the part yet. I know it includes a spring, which I understand you can either install or leave out - leaving it out allows OEM style operation of the valve (ON/OFF) while using their spring makes for variable application (which of course they recommend)

I haven't heard of any CEL problems
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      03-09-2018, 06:00 PM   #229
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Here is a really good write up of the install on an N20, which has its similarities.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1153103

And here is what GFB says about the spring.

"GFB T9357 DV+ Configuration / Tech Tip:

The GFB DV+ can be configured in two different ways depending on you own personal preference. During assembly, you can choose to install the main piston spring (indicated by the arrow) or not. For my installation the main piston spring is installed in the DV+.



Using the spring is recommended because it results in the best possible throttle response and minimum lag on gearshift, particularly on manual cars. This can sometimes result in a slightly different sound from the intake at low RPM, which is no cause for alarm - it’s simply the different way in which the valve works. If however the noise is objectionable, removing the spring will make the DV+ operate the same way as the factory valve, albeit at the expense of throttle response.

To explain further, minimum lag on gearshift on any petrol turbo engine is achieved when the diverter or blow-off valve vents only just enough air to prevent compressor surge. Venting more air than necessary increases lag on gearshift because the intercooler is completely relieved of pressure, meaning it takes longer to return to peak boost when the throttle is re-opened.

The DV+ is no exception, because unlike the factory diverter, the DV+ opens and closes in response to both the DME command AND the amount of boost pressure in the intercooler. So when the DME triggers the solenoid, the DV+ piston will only open as far as the boost pressure in the intercooler can push it against the spring. The factory diverter on the other hand will simply open regardless of the boost pressure.

The different sound on throttle lift at low RPM is simply because of this different operation method, and it does not adversely affect the turbo or engine. Removing the spring means the DV+ piston will simply open and close when directed by the ECU, just as the factory diverter does. "


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
The version I bought (T9356) is specifically for EWG AFAIK, don't know if they have a PWG version?




Haven't received the part yet. I know it includes a spring, which I understand you can either install or leave out - leaving it out allows OEM style operation of the valve (ON/OFF) while using their spring makes for variable application (which of course they recommend)

I haven't heard of any CEL problems
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      03-09-2018, 06:13 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
The version I bought (T9356) is specifically for EWG AFAIK, don't know if they have a PWG version?




Haven't received the part yet. I know it includes a spring, which I understand you can either install or leave out - leaving it out allows OEM style operation of the valve (ON/OFF) while using their spring makes for variable application (which of course they recommend)

I haven't heard of any CEL problems
hmmm i read somewhere it caused CEL. Weird
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      03-10-2018, 08:43 AM   #231
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Is the diverted valve a must have after having the tune installed? I am also a 6 speed awd.
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      03-10-2018, 11:49 AM   #232
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It's more preventative maintenance then anything. There is reports of increased throttle response though. The stock DV is not designed for the higher boost pressures of tuned cars, so it will experience premature failure. You'll notice in the logs that the car can't hold boost (measured boost not meeting demanded boost). I have a DV+ sitting on the shelf so when my stock DV goes out I have a replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Is the diverted valve a must have after having the tune installed? I am also a 6 speed awd.
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      03-10-2018, 12:12 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post
It's more preventative maintenance then anything. There is reports of increased throttle response though. The stock DV is not designed for the higher boost pressures of tuned cars, so it will experience premature failure. You'll notice in the logs that the car can't hold boost (measured boost not meeting demanded boost). I have a DV+ sitting on the shelf so when my stock DV goes out I have a replacement.
Oh I have to get this thing then. I cant wait to see a DIY very soon I am hoping!
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      03-10-2018, 04:42 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
I received my new AA Flash tunes from Nic yesterday

Thought I would walk thru the operation with a couple things of note:
  • Once you receive your cable, there will be some instructions included that has a link to Simon3 software DL on their site - ignore that. The new 2018 Simon3 cables require a different software that still hasn't been updated with the AA branding. Contact either Nic or Andrew & they will send you a link to their dropbox with the correct iFlash program (you can ignore the PDF instructions also as they don't really apply to Fxx cars)
  • Once you receive the link, DL software, plug your Simon3 cable into computer, install software & drivers
  • Now you're ready to read ECU info from your car to send in to AA for the new Flash Tunes - nice thing with Fxx cars is that you don't actually have to do a full Read of your stock tune (like back in the E9x days) - so no need for battery charger at this point as the entire operation takes like 30s
  • Plug cable in to OBD port & computer, push Start button 1X just so gauge lights are on, RUN iFlash program - it will go thru & check to make sure your computer is up to the task on 1st screen (15s). Once that is all green, it will go to 2nd screen where it Reads your car ECU Type info
  • Takes like 15s to get info (which will auto populate in all fields at top of screen) then ask if you want to set your cable to these values & lock it to your VIN# (double check your VIN number that is auto populated before hitting YES. Your car is now married to the cable, hit 'NEXT' - at this point, DO NOT hit 'Read ECU' instead look at bottom left corner for button that says 'Copy Text To Clipboard' - hit that button & Paste info into MSWord doc to save for ever
  • Send that file in to Nic @ AA, he will ask what octane gas you're running, & any mods up to date + options you want in your new Flash Tune(s)

Since I am in PA & must pass emissions I opted for:
  • 93 Octane
  • NO O2 Delete
  • Keep Cold Start
  • MPerformance Burble (this was recommended by Andrew as a nice noticeable burble, but not overly aggressive with shotguns & such, what he has on his car)

I had him send:
  • New Stock Tune
  • Stage1 Tune - reported to run around 16-17PSI
  • Stage2 Tune - reported to run closer to 18.5 PSI

I still have (1) more free tune available thru the purchase

Nic will then send you the new Flash tunes you requested + PDF of correct instructions (took around 4hrs to get new tunes in my case)

Now you are ready to flash & you will need to do the following:
  • Hook up battery charge for peace of mind
  • Connect Laptop w/Simon3 cable as before (plug IN laptop to AC power for peace of mind in case battery power would give out in middle of Flash)
  • Ignition ON so gauges lite only
  • Door Open
  • Run iFlash program & on Identification Detail screen click on 'Diagnostics'
  • Click 'READ Coding Data' (this will read in any/all of the custom coding you have done to your car & save it to a separate file - (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT STEP - DO THIS BEFORE FLASHING ANY TUNES)
  • SAVE this file with in an easily accessible place (Save file will be used later to Write Coding Data)
  • Close Diagnostics screen & click 'Program ECU Memory'
  • ALWAYS select the Stock tune from AA (larger 4MB file) for this 1st go around (not necessary after this 1st time unless you want to go back to Stock) hit OPEN. Flashing the Stock tune will take approx. 15min
  • After Flash you will be prompted to turn OFF ignition. Turn OFF car & click 'Ignition Is OFF', wait 30s & turn ignition back ON, click 'OK' on the 'Successful Flash' prompt
  • Click on 'Diagnostics' again, & click on 'Write Coding Data' Select the file you previously saved & click 'Open' this will Write all your specific Coding data back to car
  • When done, turn OFF car, wait 40s & the car is now ready to drive

> After the full Stock flash is done, you can flash any of the custom 512kB tune files. These are partial files containing only the tuned section & will only take 1min to flash. After any Flash is complete, you will need to Write back the Coding Data as explained above


> Since I will be running the Stage2 tune, it was also recommended to me to install a new 3.5bar sensor - since it will allow me to run more boost without running into fuel pressure issues that occur when you get close to maxxing out the stock 2.5bar sensor (stated that stock sensor is theoretically capable of reading to about 21.5PSI)

> I also asked for recommendation as to what new plugs to run when I swap them out - was told AA typically uses NGK 97506 gapped to .019" - .020"


That's it - all done. Sounds like a lot, but actual time to completion is short
Can the mods make this a sticky for the AA flash?
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      03-11-2018, 09:31 AM   #235
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http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=18544483

that is the CEL issue.
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      03-11-2018, 06:29 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike. View Post
I did look into this & actually, it's not a CEL but a soft fault - and it seems to be a crapshoot whether your car has it from the install or not

The fault definitely only happens if you install the extra spring they include to allow the variable function of the valve vs. strictly OPEN/CLOSE operation like the OEM valve.

The spring does not have to be installed for the DV+ to work, but it's kinda defeating the purpose to not install as that is the feature that increases throttle response over the OEM

From the GFB instructions:

Quote:
The DV+ can be configured in two different ways, depending on your desired outcome. Fitting the DV+ with the main spring installed as shown on the previous page can be thought of as a “Sport” mode, offering the best possible throttle response and boost recovery during on/off throttle applications (i.e. during gearshift with a manual transmission).

Using the main spring means the DV+ can open and close progressively in response to how much boost pressure is present, unlike the factory diverter which just opens fully regardless of whether there is boost to vent or not. Because this operation method is different from the factory diverter, it is not unusual or detrimental to hear a different sound from the intake when lifting off the throttle at low RPM, especially if you have an aftermarket intake or a larger turbo installed.

Additionally, in some cases this different operating method may be mis-interpreted by the ECU as a faulty diverter valve (it simply sees the diverter doing something different, it doesn’t know the diverter is actually attempting to improve throttle response), resulting in fault code P2261 being recorded. This does not indicate that the DV+ is faulty, nor does it cause any issues to the turbo or engine.

If the fault code or different sound occurs and you want to prevent it, or you simply want a direct replacement for the factory diverter that is stronger, holds boost better, and lasts longer, you can choose to install the DV+ WITHOUT the main spring behind the piston. This configuration can be thought of as an improved “Standard” mode, which behaves just like the factory diverter, but with the added benefits of better boost-holding, strength, and reliability.
I contacted Andrew @ AA to see if they are running this on their tune test car, whether they have seen any errors, and if so, whether they can program the fault out...
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      03-11-2018, 08:14 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike. View Post
I did look into this & actually, it's not a CEL but a soft fault - and it seems to be a crapshoot whether your car has it from the install or not

The fault definitely only happens if you install the extra spring they include to allow the variable function of the valve vs. strictly OPEN/CLOSE operation like the OEM valve.

The spring does not have to be installed for the DV+ to work, but it's kinda defeating the purpose to not install as that is the feature that increases throttle response over the OEM

From the GFB instructions:

Quote:
The DV+ can be configured in two different ways, depending on your desired outcome. Fitting the DV+ with the main spring installed as shown on the previous page can be thought of as a “Sport” mode, offering the best possible throttle response and boost recovery during on/off throttle applications (i.e. during gearshift with a manual transmission).

Using the main spring means the DV+ can open and close progressively in response to how much boost pressure is present, unlike the factory diverter which just opens fully regardless of whether there is boost to vent or not. Because this operation method is different from the factory diverter, it is not unusual or detrimental to hear a different sound from the intake when lifting off the throttle at low RPM, especially if you have an aftermarket intake or a larger turbo installed.

Additionally, in some cases this different operating method may be mis-interpreted by the ECU as a faulty diverter valve (it simply sees the diverter doing something different, it doesnÂ’t know the diverter is actually attempting to improve throttle response), resulting in fault code P2261 being recorded. This does not indicate that the DV+ is faulty, nor does it cause any issues to the turbo or engine.

If the fault code or different sound occurs and you want to prevent it, or you simply want a direct replacement for the factory diverter that is stronger, holds boost better, and lasts longer, you can choose to install the DV+ WITHOUT the main spring behind the piston. This configuration can be thought of as an improved “Standard” mode, which behaves just like the factory diverter, but with the added benefits of better boost-holding, strength, and reliability.
I contacted Andrew @ AA to see if they are running this on their tune test car, whether they have seen any errors, and if so, whether they can program the fault out...
100% my luck this will give me a fault
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      03-11-2018, 08:19 PM   #238
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What do they (GFB) mean by "different sound" of the intake? Does that mean strange? Louder ? Quieter?
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      03-11-2018, 09:37 PM   #239
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People been running increased boost long before these tunes came out.

I get how this works and it's cheap but I am
Not sure it's a prerequisite
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      03-12-2018, 04:05 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seba77W View Post
What do they (GFB) mean by "different sound" of the intake? Does that mean strange? Louder ? Quieter?
Look on YouTube there is a video with sound clip

Quote:
People been running increased boost long before these tunes came out.

I get how this works and it's cheap but I am
Not sure it's a prerequisite
It's not - just more reliable & capable of holding more boost than OEM
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      03-12-2018, 08:10 AM   #241
JaredG_F30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Look on YouTube there is a video with sound clip



It's not - just more reliable & capable of holding more boost than OEM
^ THIS!! Also increased throttle response due to retention of charged air during gears shifts. I think this would be even more important for me with 6MT.
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      03-12-2018, 10:42 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matty088 View Post
People been running increased boost long before these tunes came out.

I get how this works and it's cheap but I am
Not sure it's a prerequisite
Above 17-18psi the OEM one tends to tear thus creating a boost leak.

With the DV+ it holds boost much better, and also replaces that rubber part with a metal one.

Its required if you go beyond 17psi. Though people change it when they change their turbo.
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