[JaredG_F30]

Fellow enthusiasts…I’ve always wanted to create my own custom built car and love the F30 N55 platform so this is my start. I’ve been doing a bit of research over the past 9 months and have made a few decisions….

1. I’m targeting 450whp (I’ve always wanted a 500 hp car) as this vehicle will be driven multiple days a week. It’s not my only vehicle but it’s so fun to drive that I drive it almost daily. I think 450whp is a good manageable target for a DD. I would also like to keep turbo lag down as much as possible.
2. I don’t want to run e85 or blend e85 as it’s hard to find around me. There are a few stations so when it comes to tuning it would be nice to have an e30/40 map for special occasions but I will be mostly running crap California 91 octane
3. I want a robust build to minimize risk of damage to the engine or drive train. This means I want mods that will produce my hp target with a conservative tune and operating well within the limits of the modified parts.

So this is my plan. Looking for feedback and input!!

Bolt-Ons

1. Go big or go home: Instead of piece-milling an FBO build I’m leaning towards an upgraded turbo kit. I’m really liking the kit from Speedtech with the BW 7074 turbo. I like that the BW 7074 is a ball bearing turbo instead of journal bearing, like the Pure Stage 2, as this will decrease turbo lag. Additionally, using the BW 7074 turbo instead of the 7670 should help with turbo lag as the compressor wheel is smaller and will spool faster. This kit comes with down pipe, charge pipe and other bits needed for a robust system. Priced around $3800.
2. VRSF Race Intercooler: This seems to be the best bang for your buck when it comes to intercoolers. Might as well put this in at the same time as the turbo kit install as new inlet and outlet pipes are part of the kit. Price $720
3. Additional Fuel: So this is where I’m struggling. I haven’t’ been able to find out for sure if I’m going to need additional fuel for my HP target. I may be able to get away with just meth but from the shopping, I have done port injection is a more robust solution and will cost about the same (looking at MMP PI kit with the controller and stage 2 LPFP). However, can I just install higher flow injectors and upgrade the LPFP and HPFP to get just as good or better results at a lower cost than port injection?

Tuning

1. BootMod3 hand down!! Thinking I will skip JB4 all together and if I do need PI I’ll get the Split Sec injector controller. Price $800 (includes DME removal and unlock)

Installation

1. I’ll need a shop with the capability to install the turbo kit, IC, PI or meth (if needed) and custom tune with BM3. Looking at SSR or SupremePower. Are there in other recommendations in the LA area? Any idea what labor costs would be for component installation (turbo kit, IC, PI) and tune?

Cost

1. Turbo kit: $3800
2. FMIC: $720
3. Fueling (if needed): target $1000
4. Labor: ??? I have no clue. I’m thinking 8 hours at $120/hour so no more than $1000 (is this even close?)
5. Total: $5,500 - $6,5000 for a daily drivable 500 crank hp F30 BMW. I like it!!

As always if you have suggestions for a better route I’m all open!!

[GodZhu]

I'm going to subscribe to this thread as I'll be extremely interested how this will turn out!

I'm a supporter of this

[hardparker]

Everything looks good with your choices. The port injection setup is the right choice, too. You won't hit your target whp reliably without. The only offering I've seen for an HPFP upgrade was $2-3K, and the stock injectors are an unknown factor at that point.

[HKD126]

I think you mean the EFR 7064 turbo.

[enjoythemusic]

Add GFB DV+, didn't see it within your build.

[VT-man]

I was told that chasing a specific hp number is a recipe for disaster.
I hope that you prove it wrong.
good luck with your build.

[SeanWRT]

Probably I'm getting old. These days people call upgrading full turbo bottom mount a modest build, call the car making more horsepower than fuel pump can support a daily driver.

[zinner]

Labor on a turbo swap and fueling upgrade you are probably looking at ~20 hours.

450 is just out of reach of the stock fuel system unless you keep it running lean (13:1) Stock fueling at 12:1 is probably in the area of 400-430 depending on how cold it is outside. Really you are so close to the limit that the temperature matters.

[Eternal]

Interested to see how it turns out.

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by HKD126

I think you mean the EFR 7064 turbo.

Yes you are right 7064 not 7074

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Add GFB DV+, didn't see it within your build.

Good call!! Thanks for the input!

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by VT-man

I was told that chasing a specific hp number is a recipe for disaster.
I hope that you prove it wrong.
good luck with your build.

I think it's good to have a target. Honestly with the mods I'm planing I think 450+ whp should be attainable.

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by SeanWRT

Probably I'm getting old. These days people call upgrading full turbo bottom mount a modest build, call the car making more horsepower than fuel pump can support a daily driver.

Not really sure what you said there.

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by zinner

Labor on a turbo swap and fueling upgrade you are probably looking at ~20 hours.

450 is just out of reach of the stock fuel system unless you keep it running lean (13:1) Stock fueling at 12:1 is probably in the area of 400-430 depending on how cold it is outside. Really you are so close to the limit that the temperature matters.

Thanks for the input. Sounds like extra fueling now is a good plan.

[SeanWRT]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

I think it's good to have a target. Honestly with the mods I'm planing I think 450+ whp should be attainable.

OP, let me be serious.

Virtually you're trying to achieve the power goal that nothing from your drivetrain is made for, using a setup that is yet to see any independent at this point being successful with, on the crappy gas you have only access to.

The fact that you want to be the one that it takes for the team (of which if you're aware of) is a blessing to the entire n55 community - as you see how many nice looking people before me in this thread wish you all the best and wait and see how it works out for you.

My advice for you is to either work with a tuner that's fully committed to this project (no tune off the shelf is ready for that), or take a step back using PS2 that's been well proven. Only drawback with it is some turbo lag, compared to stock.

In fact I like it the way you want your car tuned (have daily drivability in mind and no interest in crazy hp number) and am hoping for you being successful, I mean it.

[lens]

If you only have access to 91. Meth is your only choice to hit 450whp+

The good thing Pure stage 2 is it's affordable and the lag will save your drivetrain and engine.

If you did not have lag and spooled the same as stock turbo, you will break your driveshaft or an axel.

You want a gradual increase of power, it'll also help with launching too as you won't have full torque and won't spin as much.

[SeanWRT]

Originally Posted by chaungo

If you only have access to 91. Meth is your only choice to hit 450whp+

The good thing Pure stage 2 is it's affordable and the lag will save your drivetrain and engine.

If you did not have lag and spooled the same as stock turbo, you will break your driveshaft or an axel.

You want a gradual increase of power, it'll also help with launching too as you won't have full torque and won't spin as much.

Do not confuse progressive or linear power delivery with turbo lag. Exactly the opposite, power would be perfectly linear without lag at all. Less of it you have, more linear it will be. It's a tuning strategy, which many like, to crack up boost early on as high as hardware allows, which is only possible with fast spooling turbo, making a false public perception of it being not linear. Ideally the boost target being met at idle rpm and being held constantly till redline working like a naturally aspirated engine on another plant with higher atmosphere pressure.

Turbo lag means more exhaust flow energy it needs to reach its rpm threshold to make boost. And when it does, power surges and it increases at a much higher rate and thus put much more pressure on everything than fast spooling turbo. Do not try to whitewash turbo lag just because you have it - turbo lag is a con from almost all the angles you look at it.

If you're familiar with GTR R35 world you'll see clearer my point. In there turbo upgrade is elementary just like a piece of cake everybody easily does. No one can brag about power without having 1000whp. No other platforms in the world breaks more things than R35 in pursuing power. What happens when you have a "too fast spooling turbo" is compressor surge (compressor makes more flow than motor can eat at lower rpm, how is that fking possible with our tiny little n55 turbo?). It can cause turbo mechanical failure or wear out quickly. Next thing it can break is rod/piston (I'm speaking when timing is set properly, no knocks), but bigger turbo does that way sooner and also stresses transmission and drive shift way more.

TBH, the things in the way doing turbo upgrade on N55 platform is not the hardware but tuning. DME was just hacked less then 2 years ago and they are barely ready for hybrid turbo. N55 is being phased out by BMW but aftermarket tuning of it is yet in its infancy. That's why I urge OP to only work with a tuner that's knowledgeable enough and most importantly fully committed.

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by SeanWRT

Do not confuse progressive or linear power delivery with turbo lag. Exactly the opposite, power would be perfectly linear without lag at all. Less of it you have, more linear it will be. It's a tuning strategy, which many like, to crack up boost early on as high as hardware allows, which is only possible with fast spooling turbo, making a false public perception of it being not linear. Ideally the boost target being met at idle rpm and being held constantly till redline working like a naturally aspirated engine on another plant with higher atmosphere pressure.

Turbo lag means more exhaust flow energy it needs to reach its rpm threshold to make boost. And when it does, power surges and it increases at a much higher rate and thus put much more pressure on everything than fast spooling turbo. Do not try to whitewash turbo lag just because you have it - turbo lag is a con from almost all the angles you look at it.

If you're familiar with GTR R35 world you'll see clearer my point. In there turbo upgrade is elementary just like a piece of cake everybody easily does. No one can brag about power without having 1000whp. No other platforms in the world breaks more things than R35 in pursuing power. What happens when you have a "too fast spooling turbo" is compressor surge (compressor makes more flow than motor can eat at lower rpm, how is that fking possible with our tiny little n55 turbo?). It can cause turbo mechanical failure or wear out quickly. Next thing it can break is rod/piston (I'm speaking when timing is set properly, no knocks), but bigger turbo does that way sooner and also stresses transmission and drive shift way more.

TBH, the things in the way doing turbo upgrade on N55 platform is not the hardware but tuning. DME was just hacked less then 2 years ago and they are barely ready for hybrid turbo. N55 is being phased out by BMW but aftermarket tuning of it is yet in its infancy. That's why I urge OP to only work with a tuner that's knowledgeable enough and most importantly fully committed.

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it. I definitely plan to work with an experienced tuner. My plan is to use hardware that is capable of big power but dialed back with a conservative tune. SSR seems to be a good choice but I'm open to other suggestions. I also have considered the Pure state 2 but I like the ball bearing design of the BW EFR series instead of journal bearing like the Pure turbo.

[BearF32]

sub'd!

Im in the middle of my research for a 500 whp DD f32, so i will be watching this build closely. I was leaning towards the pure stage 2, but the ball bearing advantage of the EFR has me intrigued. I definitely agree with going with BM3 as i will be doing the same.

I plan on doing all of the work myself, as ridiculous as it may be. But i like a challenge

[lens]

Originally Posted by SeanWRT

Do not confuse progressive or linear power delivery with turbo lag. Exactly the opposite, power would be perfectly linear without lag at all. Less of it you have, more linear it will be. It's a tuning strategy, which many like, to crack up boost early on as high as hardware allows, which is only possible with fast spooling turbo, making a false public perception of it being not linear. Ideally the boost target being met at idle rpm and being held constantly till redline working like a naturally aspirated engine on another plant with higher atmosphere pressure.

Turbo lag means more exhaust flow energy it needs to reach its rpm threshold to make boost. And when it does, power surges and it increases at a much higher rate and thus put much more pressure on everything than fast spooling turbo. Do not try to whitewash turbo lag just because you have it - turbo lag is a con from almost all the angles you look at it.

If you're familiar with GTR R35 world you'll see clearer my point. In there turbo upgrade is elementary just like a piece of cake everybody easily does. No one can brag about power without having 1000whp. No other platforms in the world breaks more things than R35 in pursuing power. What happens when you have a "too fast spooling turbo" is compressor surge (compressor makes more flow than motor can eat at lower rpm, how is that fking possible with our tiny little n55 turbo?). It can cause turbo mechanical failure or wear out quickly. Next thing it can break is rod/piston (I'm speaking when timing is set properly, no knocks), but bigger turbo does that way sooner and also stresses transmission and drive shift way more.

TBH, the things in the way doing turbo upgrade on N55 platform is not the hardware but tuning. DME was just hacked less then 2 years ago and they are barely ready for hybrid turbo. N55 is being phased out by BMW but aftermarket tuning of it is yet in its infancy. That's why I urge OP to only work with a tuner that's knowledgeable enough and most importantly fully committed.

The thing is, this is not a N54 platform, nor is it a GTR platform.

It makes power up to a certain point. Noone likes turbo lag, but you can't have faster spool and no turbo lag, it does not work that way, to get something, you have to trade it for something else.

If you have a big turbo, that has no lag, fast spool, I guarantee you WILL break something. The only reason why with pure or big boost they don't break shit after 500whp is because there is a bit of turbo lag in the beginning (you can see on the dyno runs, it starts spooling and doesn't hit max torque till around 3.5-4k) and it progressively tapers. And as you can see also, it slowly builds it, it doesn't spool then hits right away, it slowly gets to that point.

The N55 was never a power platform, its a reliable platform I would call it. Make decent power for a DD till you move on to B58 or S55 or something.

The shop that did my dyno said that little lag you see is a good thing. Their M6 made 660wtq at 2700rpm and it shattered their driveshaft.

You really have to sit and drive a PS2 n55 and see for yourself, the lag is almost non existant, it spools at 3k, then you feel the torque graduately hit you and keep you pinned till 7k.

That being said, even if you lose a bit of low end, you gain alot of top end. And that's where you'll spend most of the time if you're roll racing or from a dig. The only place you'll start below 4k rpm is when you're launching or driving around normally, but around a track or roll racing, you'll always be around 5k+

[jinxremoved]

Your build is missing a LSD and upgraded wheels and tires.

[JaredG_F30]

Originally Posted by jinxremoved

Your build is missing a LSD and upgraded wheels and tires.

I already have upgraded wheels, tires and exhaust.