[Solidjake]

Hey guys. Ordered the parts necessary and I'll be installing them on Wednesday pending if the weather is good.

- 3.5 feet x2 of 2.5" aircraft grade brake duct good up to 550F
- 2.5" aluminum mounting flange to attach to the dust shield with stainless steel rivets
- Aluminum mesh to collect any rocks/road debris that might get into the hose

Should be getting the hose and mounting flanges on Monday. Will post pics when able

[EDWYER]

Nice. Subbed.

[kern417]

I'm pretty sure my car already came with integrated brake ducts. What's the benefit that you're hoping to gain?

[Tchao]

Originally Posted by kern417

I'm pretty sure my car already came with integrated brake ducts. What's the benefit that you're hoping to gain?

The difference is our cars directs air towards the wheel.
While his ducting will direct the air onto the center of the rotor....hence the hose.
The ducting you are referring to is just the scoop in the front, his solution routes the air from that duct into a hose, onto the dust shield of the rotor.

In a track situation, that will improve brake cooling significantly, and hopefully prevent fading.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by Tchao

The difference is our cars directs air towards the wheel.
While his ducting will direct the air onto the center of the rotor....hence the hose.
The ducting you are referring to is just the scoop in the front, his solution routes the air from that duct into a hose, onto the dust shield of the rotor.

In a track situation, that will improve brake cooling significantly, and hopefully prevent fading.

I guess I come from a different background where typically people route air from the fog lights or the front grilles into the wheel well to get air in there. But with the openings in place, we are already reaping most of the benefits since the wheel/brake rotation creates the airflow.

So you're saying with Brembo brakes + Hawk pads and our factory ducting, you're still experiencing brake fade?

[Solidjake]

Thanks tchao, exactly.

I did notice some fade in the faster paced sessions. I'm also waiting for RBF600 fluid and Stoptech stainless steel lines.

I did a lot of reading on 1addicts and the E90 forums and they guys have nothing but exceptional results. A few of them over there had their brake piston seals go, calipers seize, fading etc. My motto is any improvement is worth it. Taking the car to Lime Rock and NJMP back to back next month.

[Solidjake]

Received the ducts/flanges today.

Duct: 2.5" x 7'

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php

Flange: 2.5" x2

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/...uctflanges.php

Hose clamps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Optional - Metal snips: (was an amazon add-on)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Optional - aluminum mesh (should have maybe gone a bit wider in spacing but this will do)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Solidjake]

Mesh pre-formed onto the flange to sit overnight to take shape.

[Gospeedracer]

Oooo I'm excited to see the finished result!! Should be great with a direct channel pointing at the brakes. Will likely copy your exact setup looks clean so far.

[Solidjake]

Thanks! Hopefully I can get it installed tomorrow. I will be taking pics/vids of the process. I might have an issue attaching them to the fender liner. Should have bought two plastic flanges for the hose to attach to there but I will find a way for now.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Thanks tchao, exactly.

I did notice some fade in the faster paced sessions. I'm also waiting for RBF600 fluid and Stoptech stainless steel lines.

I did a lot of reading on 1addicts and the E90 forums and they guys have nothing but exceptional results. A few of them over there had their brake piston seals go, calipers seize, fading etc. My motto is any improvement is worth it. Taking the car to Lime Rock and NJMP back to back next month.

Ok, I read into your parts list as parts you already had. I didn't realize you didn't have any of those components yet. Those are both def critical to reliable brake performance.

Just be careful because too much cooling can be just as bad. All brake components have an operating range. That's why some performance pads don't work as well when cold. It probably seems like I'm just probing to be a dick but I have friends that had issues with too much cooling. I've had great luck with just a good set of Hawk pads and fluid, even in 20min sessions. But I used HP+, which I think are more aggressive and handle heat better than the 5.0.

[Solidjake]

kern417 duly noted, thanks dude! I will monitor how it drives when the temps fall in the fall/winter. I might disconnect the hosing since I won't be tracking at that time.

[Solidjake]

Was almost there then hit a bump.

Ended up cutting down on the duct so you don't need 7 feet to get this done, 5feet should be enough. I ended up jacking up the front of the car to test the rotation of the duct without the wheel to decide how much duct to cut then the part that stopped me happened. With the wheel on toeing out is fine but toeing in makes the tire hit the duct.

What I think I will do to make this happen is cut the plastic liner to the right of the stock duct so the ducting can be pushed back further in, zip tied in place then the second half would be fine going to the dust shield.

Also got my RBF fluid today and changed my spark plugs

[FaRKle!]

I didn't realize you were planning on drawing the air from where the front bumper ducts exit into the wheel well.

Most of the time when I see these ducts going into the dust shield they draw from underneath the car. That also keeps them out of the way of the wheel when it turns inward.

[Solidjake]

Yea that is another option my friend and I discussed. Have to see if the clearance will work. I can drill four holes on the bottom of the liner or whatever so I can hold down the duct with zip ties. We did hold the duct there to see and it looked do-able. I might take it again tomorrow.

[EDWYER]

Definitely too long but cutting should solve that.

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by ProjectBoost

Definitely too long but cutting should solve that.

It was shortened down in the pics after. Just that damn tire

[Solidjake]

Got to speak to the Bimmerworld crew for the Conitinental Tire Challenge at Lime Rock on Friday! What great guys! They took off the wheels from the F30 so I could check it all out and wow. Stock calipers but with Performance Friction track pads/rotors. DUAL brake ducts but they did exactly what I had in mind with cutting the liner. They told me they ran into the same issue with the wheel and cut the liner out to get the duct in.

Differences they did was removing the stock duct from the front and adding the hose all the way to the front in the bumper. They also removed a portion of the dust shield and welded on a flange for the hose to connect to. The hose is bent more oval I assume for faster airflow exiting into the rotor. I also like the heat wrapping over the brake hoses so I will get the same to cover the stainless steel lines.

So... my plan is to cut the liner to fit the hose back above the sway bar and test fit it all. If that doesn't give enough clearance I will get into the stock ducting and fit the hose from the side and not the back exit of the duct.

[kern417]

Cool details. I'm telling you man, rotors and pads make the brake setup. BBKs are nice but not needed for most everyone. Nobody ever believes me lol. And with stock sizing you get to run smaller/lighter wheels.

Did they comment at what point they decided they needed ducting? Or why they needed 2? I'd assume the oval shape is for packaging in the tight space moreso than controlling airflow speed.

[Tchao]

Make sure you blow the air onto the center of the rotor like they did. Thats the air inlet, and the heated air exits out the vanes at the outside diameter of the rotor (centrifugal pump)
Looks like their ducting on the rotor is pretty hardcore too, encloses the entire ducting only to the center vanes. Thanks for sharing!

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by kern417

Cool details. I'm telling you man, rotors and pads make the brake setup. BBKs are nice but not needed for most everyone. Nobody ever believes me lol. And with stock sizing you get to run smaller/lighter wheels.

Did they comment at what point they decided they needed ducting? Or why they needed 2? I'd assume the oval shape is for packaging in the tight space moreso than controlling airflow speed.

Yup, thanks man. I'm also exploring getting track pads to swap at the track. Just have to see which ones that won't mess up the rotor and work with the deposits left by the HAWK HPS 5.0 pads. Any suggestions? I forgot to ask why they used two specifically...

Originally Posted by Tchao

Make sure you blow the air onto the center of the rotor like they did. Thats the air inlet, and the heated air exits out the vanes at the outside diameter of the rotor (centrifugal pump)
Looks like their ducting on the rotor is pretty hardcore too, encloses the entire ducting only to the center vanes. Thanks for sharing!

Got it thanks. I will cut the flange a bit so it's along the axle and closer to the center of the rotor. Once I get the ducting figured out up front I'll do the cutting and put it all together. I will do this next week or on Sat since I'm starting overnights tomorrow

[kern417]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Yup, thanks man. I'm also exploring getting track pads to swap at the track. Just have to see which ones that won't mess up the rotor and work with the deposits left by the HAWK HPS 5.0 pads. Any suggestions? I forgot to ask why they used two specifically...

Hawk HP+ works great for me. Especially with 4pot fronts it's so easy to swap, i'd highly recommend them or DTC60s. They are a little squeaky and noisy when putting around town so you can just swap back to stock for the drive home.

DTC-60s are known to eat at rotors but i know people with aftermarket rotors that haven't had any issues. They might chew through the stock ones. But if you do go aftermarket, just don't buy drilled. Get blanks or slotted.