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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 328d F31 SCR Tank Replacement
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      02-17-2023, 10:11 AM   #45
Samdelph
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It looks broken to me…
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Last edited by Samdelph; 02-17-2023 at 11:30 AM..
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      02-17-2023, 10:17 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdelph View Post
I’m currently looking at similar active SCR tank issues, though I’m trying to find an asset to a specific question that is stumping me. Where the line comes out of the active tank, there is a white fitting on my Scr tank that appears to be broken or at least damaged that is one of the causes of my SCR low pressure codes. Is that fitting a part I can buy? Or is it part of the active tank?
It's not part of the tank, it's part of the distribution unit. Unfortunately that part is super expensive too. Part number 16197351665, ECSTuning has good pictures of it: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/16197351665/

Are you 100% certain it's broken on the distribution unit side ? If the plastic clamps inside the heated line are snapped, you could just have the same line problem we all had, and be losing pressure because of that. I'd disconnect the line as a first step, to examine the fitting and compare to ECS pictures, and see if you actually have damage there.
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      02-17-2023, 10:22 AM   #47
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You make a good point, and the answer is No, I don’t know for certain that it is broken. I have been reluctant to pull it off as I. Don’t want to spray AdBlue all over everything until I know what I’m looking for. There are some little “wings” on the fitting that seem to be either broken or detached and it is definitely leaking fluid at that location.

Thanks for the link. I’ll go out and get on the ground and have a look and see what it actually looks like
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      02-17-2023, 10:34 AM   #48
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It looks broken to me…

Edit*

Definitely broken
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      02-17-2023, 10:35 AM   #49
alexandre0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdelph View Post
You make a good point, and the answer is No, I don’t know for certain that it is broken. I have been reluctant to pull it off as I. Don’t want to spray AdBlue all over everything until I know what I’m looking for. There are some little “wings” on the fitting that seem to be either broken or detached and it is definitely leaking fluid at that location.

Thanks for the link. I’ll go out and get on the ground and have a look and see what it actually looks like
The DEF line won't spray anything if you disconnect it from the fitting, I don't think there is any fluid circulating in there when the car is off. The pump sends all the fluid in the line to the exhaust when turning off the car, otherwise it'd freeze inside the line in cold climates.

My line was completely empty when I disconnected it to install the new one. Hope this helps!
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      02-17-2023, 10:39 AM   #50
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The other issue is, the level sensors in the active tank aren’t reading at all… so I may be a person who actually needs to replace the tank…
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      02-17-2023, 12:01 PM   #51
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Is super glue sacreligious?
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      02-17-2023, 05:21 PM   #52
alexandre0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdelph View Post
Is super glue sacreligious?
If it means avoiding a $600 part I'm all for it

From some quick googling around, I found this website with closer pictures of the BMW part: https://all-parts.in.ua/16197351665-...854567873.html

Bosch part number that's stamped on it looks like a match with this Benz part that's significantly cheaper: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...400-MFG14.aspx

It's a bit of a gamble though, but might be worth a try if the glue fix doesn't work out.
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      02-18-2023, 06:55 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdelph View Post
Is super glue sacreligious?
The pressure that it builds in the line is not small so I would try something a bit more industrial than super glue, like JB Weld. If that doesn't work, I quick google on that post number brought up a large variety in price. You might also be lucky to find one or the entire tank with the pump on eBay or car-part.com that should be even cheaper.
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      02-18-2023, 07:05 AM   #54
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So, to update, I did use JB Weld, because why the hell not at least try it. I drove it 150 miles yesterday. It works and the car runs just fine but I am still getting the pressure fault.

I’ve been looking at tanks on eBay and car-part and they can be had for around 3-500$ for the whole tank with the pump. But it’s a crap shoot as to whether they have fittings or attachment points broken off.

I nearly pulled the trigger on an eBay listing only to find, after close examination, that it had the metering line fitting broken off.

Honestly though, it looks like the oem tank brand new is only about 950$ if I take the time comparison shop. And I hate to do a repair that will need to be done again in a year because of a faulty tank or sensor.
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      02-18-2023, 07:41 AM   #55
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I’m with you on the peace of mind. Does the new tank come with the pump built in or you’d have to buy that too? If it’s included, definitely not a bad call.

You might also need a new line, lots of us getting pressure codes that were caused by the line itself.
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      02-18-2023, 08:34 AM   #56
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I also went that route and bought the entire system from a front end wrecked car that I found on FB marketplace. I only replaced the active tank and line, but I have the passive tank and it's pump as well as the other lines, just in case.

BTW my tank replacement fixed my level sensor issue. Didn't even need to drive it to clear the countdown, I had just cleared the codes and then when turning it on with the new tank the countdown didn't pop up.
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      02-18-2023, 10:16 AM   #57
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Looking at the tank pictures at ECS, definitely looks like you'd get the pump included in the active tank part number 16197260216: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/16197260216/. Not so bad if you found a new one at $950.
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      02-18-2023, 09:33 PM   #58
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Yes, if I get the tank, I believe it includes the pump. So it might be the best to go that route.

Also thanks to those of you who reached out by PM. My account isn’t old enough yet to allow me to send private messages. But you can reach me at michaelfeldigan@gmail.com.
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      02-19-2023, 06:33 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdelph View Post
Yes, if I get the tank, I believe it includes the pump. So it might be the best to go that route.

Also thanks to those of you who reached out by PM. My account isn’t old enough yet to allow me to send private messages. But you can reach me at michaelfeldigan@gmail.com.
If you go new, get it at FCP so if it fails again you can just send it back for another.

Also, be sure to have a good set of torx sockets and keys. You need to remove the rear subframe support to get the active tank out. If you don't have the service instructions I can post them.

Lastly, as my tank only had an issue with the level sensor, the pump is fully functional if you wanted to get one used. Make an offer. Otherwise I will just hold onto it until the other one fails.
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      02-19-2023, 08:09 AM   #60
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Thanks for the info on FCP.

And as far as the service instructions, that would be great. I have looked for them online a bit and had not found them yet.

Also thanks for the offer on the pump, that is very generous of you. I’m still exploring options on repair, but I’ll reach out if I decide to just do the pump.

I’ve got to decide if I’m going to try and make all the warning lights go off and be 100% or just drive it as-is for a month or two until I buy the whole tank. The car currently has 192k miles and has had over $10k worth of maintenance in the last year, so it should be good to go for a while, but you never know.

Did you have any problems with your replacement tank communicating with your system? Or was it just plug and play?
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      02-19-2023, 11:12 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F31_King View Post
If you go new, get it at FCP so if it fails again you can just send it back for another.

Also, be sure to have a good set of torx sockets and keys. You need to remove the rear subframe support to get the active tank out. If you don't have the service instructions I can post them.

Lastly, as my tank only had an issue with the level sensor, the pump is fully functional if you wanted to get one used. Make an offer. Otherwise I will just hold onto it until the other one fails.
Can you please post the service instructions. Thanks!
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      02-19-2023, 09:52 PM   #62
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Thanks to dreaming.haze for the file access (also available in ISTA+) to get the instructions. I have put them all in a PDF attached.

Note: The rear wheel well liner needs to be removed (the manual is for X5 so it shows the front liner).

Much of the DEF comes out of the active tank once you get the supply hose off, but not all. The hose clamp is a 6mm bolt.

Also not shown is the cross brace that was on my F31 that was directly in the way that attaches from the back lift point. And the bolt on the rear subframe bushing (33 33 1AZ) needs a T50 or T55.

The only bolt that gave me an issue (snapped) was the one holding the active tank - its towards the front of the car (M6) as it seems to get a lot of moisture from being near the seam of the tank cover. So maybe purchase one of those if you don't have any extras around.

Samdelph : Fully plug and play. I tested the new one before removing the old just to make and it showed up right away. In my case it was a level sensor so it was easy to tell ("SCR: Display of fuel tank level" in ISTA+ that also shows active temp and level and temp in the passive tank)
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      05-30-2023, 04:09 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre0 View Post
Tuptut Thanks a ton for the instructions and pictures. I had the same codes on my 2016 328dT, with a ridiculous quote from the dealer: $3k parts + 5hr labor + tax. They basically wanted to replace everything but the DEF tanks...

Replacing the SCR injector + heated line cleared all codes and took 1h30 once under the car. I'm not sure which of the 2 actually failed - I just replaced both for peace of mind. You can save some money by getting the Bosch OEM part for the injector: the Bosch part number is 0444025010.

My codes from ISTA+ were:
  • 80518A Metering line heating, activation: Line disconnection
  • 8051AD Delivery module, system pressure: Pressure build-up fault
  • 8051B0 Metering line heating, power too high
Just for clarification, did you narrow it down to a leak, or did just replacing the parts work out for you? I'm a noob and just got the same error code, 8051AD, and was doing some research on the situation which led to this thread. Did you have any manuals or did you just follow the ISTA instructions as best as possible? I'm thinking since I'm only receiving an 8051AD error that I may only need to replace the injector.
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      05-30-2023, 06:07 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinitik View Post
Just for clarification, did you narrow it down to a leak, or did just replacing the parts work out for you? I'm a noob and just got the same error code, 8051AD, and was doing some research on the situation which led to this thread. Did you have any manuals or did you just follow the ISTA instructions as best as possible? I'm thinking since I'm only receiving an 8051AD error that I may only need to replace the injector.
There was absolutely a leak but I never narrowed down on whether it was the line or the injector. I don’t have a driveway and my rental lift shop is far, so I just bit the bullet and replaced both parts at the same time to avoid going there twice.

I’m pretty sure my leak was on the line since it looks/feels pretty fragile whereas the injector is super sturdy, but most of the DEF buildup was on the injector side (I had put off the repair for 6-8 months by then so it was super caked on).

All I did in ISTA was read and clear the codes (a couple times). Once the parts were replaced, the codes never came back.

Sorry I can’t be of more help!

Last edited by alexandre0; 05-30-2023 at 06:13 PM..
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      03-04-2024, 06:07 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuptut View Post
... update to my troubleshooting...
... . As mentioned above , its also correct for my case. After replacing metering module , the next was metering line (one with heating element). Just replaced that yesterday and all is good so far. Deleted the codes and no check engine coming back so far. I returned the Active tank for full credit minus shipping etc. Wanted to thank you everyone here for help , especially Mikej0h who guided me with diagnostic software which was a game changer ! Thank Mikej0h.

Please note, i am one of these people that never leaves any reviews positive or negative, but in this case i decided to detail out my process as literally thanks to this forum i avoided paying $3000 to dealer for replacing almost the whole SCR system ; just because the DUMP mechanic at the stealership could not follow the simple ISTA+ troubleshooting procedure ...

Anyways in a sum this is my case, hope it helps someone. Parts cost $520, if i tested the cable for resistance first it would be just $280:

My car 2015 328d F31 (combi)
Got check engine light, code P208D:

1. replaced SCR metering module - didn't solve the problem
parts:
18-30-8-514-448 2014-2018 BMW Control Unit
18-30-8-578-628 2014-2018 BMW Meter Clamp ( you can re-use )
07-12-9-952-104 1995-2018 BMW Vent Pipe Clamp ( if you removing hoses, you need 2 of these)
a. to replace the module you have to remove the paneling (use T27 torx)
b. there will be a little DEF coming out, so be aware
c. make sure you have pinching clamps for the two coolant lines installed on the module.
d. pinch both coolant lines , pull these lines off (mine came off without removing the metal ring)
e. replace the unit , reconnect everything
f. run diagnostics and remove the code
g. if it was not the module , you will have check engine come back almost instantly after restarting the car.
h. in my case i still have check engine.
2. Replaced SCR metering module line - resolved the problem:
This step takes as long as it takes you to remove the panels , very easy 20min....
a. ordered the line Genuine BMW Part Number: 16197260228 from fcpeuro.com
b. remove the side main panel and one side of the torx screw panel T27
c. replace the cable
d. remove the fault code
e. restart the car and you are all good (that was my case)
Anyone know the resistance of the metering line? Is there an option of a scanner or software to run the delivery module on command?
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