[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by gameson

Does anyone know if my clip is broken or i just need to tuck it in? Does anyone has a picture on how the clip looks like?

When the mechanic showed me the clip, it seems like both the inner clips are shorter than the outer clip (i see it from rear near exhaust facing front), that means the the parking brake clip needs to be replaced?

It’s hard to take picture but this is as clear as i can get. I took my picture from rear of the car.

I also found this picture on youtube, but I don’t know how this part is installed. Can you please let me know which way is facing front of the car and which way is facing rear of the car? Is it the blue or green as marked by me?

The "by the book" install requires dropping the tank. There are several threads on this however, and the most common fix is just zip tie the cable away from the driveshaft. In the photo you can see where the cable rubbed the driveshaft (clean spot) making the noise.

[gameson]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

The "by the book" install requires dropping the tank. There are several threads on this however, and the most common fix is just zip tie the cable away from the driveshaft. In the photo you can see where the cable rubbed the driveshaft (clean spot) making the noise.

I watched that YT and zip ties is just a band aid solution, or is it?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by gameson

I watched that YT and zip ties is just a band aid solution, or is it?

Uh, the zip tie does the exact same thing as the OEM clip. It just holds the cable in place... So no, its not, unless you consider installing the OEM clip a band aid solution as well since it can just break again.

[hitman65]

Not only did it fix the noise on acceleration, it also fixed a noise over bumps, which was obviously the cable hitting the drive shaft. I might get a better zip tie next time, as I'm sure this will overheat and break at some point.

In my case it was the driver's side cable.

Something that is interesting is that neither of these noises pointed to this problem. The noise over bumps sounded like something on the rear window deck, like a metal brace under the deck was somewhat loose. It did not sound like it was under the car. The noise on acceleration sounded more like there was a quarter or something sliding around in the center console ductwork. Again, did not sound like it was under the car in any way.

What I don't like about the zip tie fix is that it pulls the cable a bit away from the brake, where using a new clip would probably align the cable better. But, it all seems strong and secured, so I don't see this causing damage. I might think about another point to secure the cable, or even running in a short metal screw with band for the brake cable.

[Onizukachan]

There is also th3 metal clip so you never have to worry about it again.

I’ve had mine sitting here for about a year but never gotten around to installing it.

[Xnfris]

I replaced the oem clip myself yesterday. The dealer wanted to charge me $1500 to replace it. It took me about 3hours in total. It's defiantly not a repair someone who isn't confident on working on there car should do.

Had to remove exhaust, ( I have axle back exhaust so I just took muffler off) remove under cross brace, unbolt mid point of drive shaft to let it sag a bit then unbolt the back side of gas tank to drop it down the 2 inches needed.

[aridaen]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

There is also th3 metal clip so you never have to worry about it again.

I’ve had mine sitting here for about a year but never gotten around to installing it.

I had already ordered the plastic clip, but wondered if there was a better way.
Glad I saw this and searched for the metal clip. Here's the link.
https://agatools.com/products/brake-line-bracket

[Onizukachan]

Just to note, I did install mine just before I sold it, did it rear up on ramps amd with a near full tank of diesel so it took a second pair of hands to start the nut while I bench pressed the tank. Didn’t have to remove bracing, tank, exhaust, drop center support, or even remove heat shield. I just took the speed nuts off all around wiggled it and then bent one half out of the way for access. Took no more than an hour, could have been closer to 45 minutes.

Did need an offset amd box end wrench because of tight clearances doing it this way.

[quixotemi]

Not to keep posting on an older thread... but does anyone know the torque specs for the mid-under cross brace thats get removed?

[imkraziguy]

Fixed with AGA on my f22 last week

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by quixotemi

Not to keep posting on an older thread... but does anyone know the torque specs for the mid-under cross brace thats get removed?

sorry I didn’t remove it since it’s a huge K member tied into suspension too on wagons, I found I could fold the heat shield and not need to.

[quakerroatmeal]

Originally Posted by imkraziguy

Fixed with AGA on my f22 last week

Damn you had a ton of space. I didn't feel like removing the big brace, shield, or exhaust so I worked with the tiny space.