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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Slow or broken thermostat?
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      01-29-2020, 11:32 AM   #23
mafatbhai
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Replaced the thermostat but it did not help much on raising the temps faster. It still takes same old time. Also the older thermostat works ok but I think it closes lot slower than the newer one. So once the temps were up and thermostat opened up, it would allow the water to go to radiator and would would stay like that till coolant temp drops down to around 45 degC.. till then it would allow some coolant to go to radiator...

On the newer one, i think it starts to open at around 71 deg C and is fully open at 88 deg C and closes around that same 70 deg C mark.

Also found out how the failsafe mechanism works.. Once the coolant overheats, the thermostat is pushed in by the spring and at the further est point in that groove, it locks in..
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      01-29-2020, 11:33 AM   #24
mafatbhai
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Thermostat Failsafe mechanism

See the photo..
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      02-12-2020, 10:45 AM   #25
rparnel1
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Thinking I may have a stuck open thermostat also. Takes at least 8 miles at about 40'F to get coolant to 90'C and during that time, if I stop at a traffic light, temperature will start to decrease.

Seems like coolant temp should ramp up consistently until t-stat opens; not surge up/down during heat-up.

Overall highway mileage is good at about 45 mpg, but is in 30's until fully warmed up
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      09-29-2021, 08:52 AM   #26
lukanio666
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thermostat was broken??
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      09-29-2021, 11:01 AM   #27
andreigbs
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You guys are making me want to check my coolant temps now... Although my oil temp warms up quite quickly and stays right in the middle of the gauge.

Ignorance was bliss.
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      12-30-2021, 12:43 PM   #28
Yinx97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreigbs View Post
You guys are making me want to check my coolant temps now... Although my oil temp warms up quite quickly and stays right in the middle of the gauge.

Ignorance was bliss.
Hello, are you solve your problem with fast warming?
If you solve problem can you say me what is the problem?
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      01-16-2022, 07:35 AM   #29
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140,000 miles on original water pump and thermostat. Wend through cold weather 19 degrees Fahrenheit. Got a check engine lite with a diagnostic code for the EGR. Back to warmer temps, cleared the codes and everything was fine. Started noticing my temp gauge take a while to heat up. Does a delayed warm up time cause that kind of fault? 273600 EGR long term drift something or other.
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      02-15-2024, 08:58 AM   #30
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2014 335ix thermostat repetitive issues

Guys, I am on my 3rd thermostat in 4 years. changed the water at one of the repairs. Keeps failing open. Always in winter. Heater always works fine. Engine temp gouge always stays at 0 at failure. Anyone has a reoccurring issue like this?
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      03-03-2024, 02:59 PM   #31
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I'll add a point of reference here. I've owned a '15 328D since 55k miles, and it's now over 129k. The factory engine temp gauge has always seemed slow to warm up in cold weather. This has never changed as the vehicle aged and mileage increased.

Its my opinion that these smaller diesel engines are going to take some time to build heat, especially is cold weather. I know that in larger diesel engines (used in trucks, etc.), they don't really produce much heat at idle and also take some time to reach thermostat opening temps when piddling around town in cold weather. Smashing the accelerator like your making grapes or heavy towing is going to illicit a quick oil and coolant climb, though.

I am currently replacing my crank harmonic dampener and started digging into other maintenance items while in there. Thus, I found this thread and immediately became concerned. But again, my wagon's engine temps have been the same for as long as I've owned it. My power during acceleration has stayed the same, I'm still getting near 45 MPG on the highway (AARod tune), and the heater functions have always corresponded with the factory temp gauge. I'm electing to leave my water pump and thermostat alone. I simply don't think its as high of a wear item on these engines as with the older/other models. I'll drain and replace the coolant just to make myself happy, though.

I do, however, plan on "servicing" my EGR system.

Maybe I'm being too optimistic, but I believe many of us are fabricating an issue where one doesn't exist. A few folks in this thread have some issues to address, but the rest of us are likely just scaring ourselves.
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      03-04-2024, 06:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSBK View Post
Guys, I am on my 3rd thermostat in 4 years. changed the water at one of the repairs. Keeps failing open. Always in winter. Heater always works fine. Engine temp gouge always stays at 0 at failure. Anyone has a reoccurring issue like this?
Coolant thermostats don't fail at anything like this rate, i.e. 3 in 4 years. Something isn't right there including, perhaps, with the analysis or understanding.

The engine temperature gauge is displaying oil temperature not coolant temperature. If the gauge remains at zero, even after a journey of (say) 20 miles then there's likely a secondary problem, i.e. the oil temperature sensor and/or its connection to the vehicle is faulty. What's your typical journey distance over which the oil temperature is remaining at zero ?

My 30d often takes at least 15 miles to reach full operating temperature (oil) on a cold day (around 0 celsuis) and has an electric auxiliary heater for the cabin (OEM) which activates after 1-2 miles. Maybe the 28d in the US is the same, i.e. the heater still works but it drawing heat from an electric element rather than engine coolant.

My wife's KIA Sorento has a 2.0d unit and although the temperature gauge displays coolant temperature rather than oil, it gets to 'full' operating temperature in less than 2 miles whatever the weather. Different engines; different warm-up cycles.
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      03-04-2024, 06:31 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpm01 View Post
I'll add a point of reference here. I've owned a '15 328D since 55k miles, and it's now over 129k. The factory engine temp gauge has always seemed slow to warm up in cold weather. This has never changed as the vehicle aged and mileage increased.

Its my opinion that these smaller diesel engines are going to take some time to build heat, especially is cold weather. I know that in larger diesel engines (used in trucks, etc.), they don't really produce much heat at idle and also take some time to reach thermostat opening temps when piddling around town in cold weather. Smashing the accelerator like your making grapes or heavy towing is going to illicit a quick oil and coolant climb, though.

I am currently replacing my crank harmonic dampener and started digging into other maintenance items while in there. Thus, I found this thread and immediately became concerned. But again, my wagon's engine temps have been the same for as long as I've owned it. My power during acceleration has stayed the same, I'm still getting near 45 MPG on the highway (AARod tune), and the heater functions have always corresponded with the factory temp gauge. I'm electing to leave my water pump and thermostat alone. I simply don't think its as high of a wear item on these engines as with the older/other models. I'll drain and replace the coolant just to make myself happy, though.

I do, however, plan on "servicing" my EGR system.

Maybe I'm being too optimistic, but I believe many of us are fabricating an issue where one doesn't exist. A few folks in this thread have some issues to address, but the rest of us are likely just scaring ourselves.
Welp, I was exploring the arrangement of the thermostat and managed to take the housing off; it ain’t going back on easily. So I’m just going to pull the water pump too and replace (since I’ve already taken apart the items). But for reference, the thermostat sits with tension inside the thermostat housing. This makes for come creative positioning when attempting to press the housing on AND line up the housing gasket, which shares space in the housing and in the water pump. It’s just easier to install the thermostat + housing into its corresponding position on the side of the water pump when it’s out of the vehicle. To recap, remove the water pump when replacing the thermostat so you can reinstall with less profanity.


Also, the thermostat housing is a hard plastic that is reusable if you don’t hulk smash it.

Last edited by mpm01; 03-04-2024 at 06:33 PM.. Reason: Spelling
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