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      08-06-2018, 04:34 PM   #1
ph47mf
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Merc to BMW

Hi guys

I currently drive a 2014 E220 CDI, it's a superbly built car and very comfortable in a straight line but it handles like a bus on the B roads and jerky in town.

I am very close to swapping it for a 2016 335 GT in white. It's at a pretty attractive price (one of the lowest in the country for that mileage) however it does mean it's pretty bog standard apart from the black panel display and slightly bigger entertainment screen.

The car is about 300 miles away so I haven't seen the car or driven one. I have driven a 320D saloon and a 330D touring 2-3 years back and I liked them both. This is bigger and quicker, surely it can't go wrong.

I know this tall GT won't handle like its smaller siblings, I hope it will still be a lot more competent than my e-class. Anyone done the same as me and went from a Merc to BM?

I am currently getting around 350-400 miles out of a £66 full tank. This is 70% city, and 30% motorway driving. From what I have read, this beasty straight 6 can achieve something similar, what do you guys get?

Anyone had any DPF problems?

Anything else I should know about?

Thank you and hope to visit this forum more and more often in the near future.
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      08-06-2018, 07:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ph47mf View Post
Hi guys

I currently drive a 2014 E220 CDI, it's a superbly built car and very comfortable in a straight line but it handles like a bus on the B roads and jerky in town.

I am very close to swapping it for a 2016 335 GT in white. It's at a pretty attractive price (one of the lowest in the country for that mileage) however it does mean it's pretty bog standard apart from the black panel display and slightly bigger entertainment screen.

The car is about 300 miles away so I haven't seen the car or driven one. I have driven a 320D saloon and a 330D touring 2-3 years back and I liked them both. This is bigger and quicker, surely it can't go wrong.

I know this tall GT won't handle like its smaller siblings, I hope it will still be a lot more competent than my e-class. Anyone done the same as me and went from a Merc to BM?

I am currently getting around 350-400 miles out of a £66 full tank. This is 70% city, and 30% motorway driving. From what I have read, this beasty straight 6 can achieve something similar, what do you guys get?

Anyone had any DPF problems?

Anything else I should know about?

Thank you and hope to visit this forum more and more often in the near future.
Between my wife and myself, we essentially did what you are asking...2008 MB E Class (W211) to a brief disaster with a 2016 Audi A6, and now we have the GT in our garage, although it's one of mine, and she's moved on to a MiniCooper Countryman S, but I digress.

The 3GT feels much more nimble and athletic than the E Class did, although not like my 2 Series. OTOH, the E Class felt like a bank vault on wheels. Which sounds better to you? I think the 3GT is more fun, and with the overall length, just as comfortable/spacious. The E did seem a bit more "finished" on the interior...the 3GT somewhat more spartan. Overall, if side by side, I'd take the 3GT over the Benz, as I prefer to drive the car and not just ride behind the wheel.

BTW, have never bothered to calculate fuel economy for the above....sorry!
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      08-07-2018, 07:10 AM   #3
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That's good to know.

I don't expect it to be an out and out track machine but a bit of fun through the bends would be nice when I don't have any kids in the back. ''bank vault'' is pretty accurate, I cannot fault its interior, it's built like a tank and having it for 2 years, not a single squeak from anywhere.

What happened to your A6?

I have some questions:

1) what does the blue/red dial on the top vent do? I am aware it changes the air temperature but why when the proper temperature controls are just below?

2) holding the button on the keyfob, does it open/close the windows?

3) runflats are new to me, it sounds great from a safety perspective, is it true it cannot be repaired if it had a puncture etc? any downsides apart from ride quality?
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      08-07-2018, 11:30 AM   #4
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1) what does the blue/red dial on the top vent do? I am aware it changes the air temperature but why when the proper temperature controls are just below?
It allows independent adjustment of the upper vent output temperature.
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2) holding the button on the keyfob, does it open/close the windows?
Yes.
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3) runflats ... is it true it cannot be repaired if it had a puncture etc?
No. A puncture can be repaired just as with any tire. However, it must be done straight away, as driving on the tire when deflated will damage the sidewall, and that can't be repaired. To that end I have a jack, wrench, pump and tire repair kit on board, and I have a compact spare that I toss into the trunk when taking a long distance trip away from home.
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any downsides apart from ride quality?
My GT on RFTs rides better and is more quiet than any car I've owned before. I venture that with the relatively soft stock suspension of the GT most would find non-RFT to be too soft.
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      08-07-2018, 12:51 PM   #5
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What happened to your A6?
As your other questions were already answered, to this one, a poor quality 2016 A6 Prestige 3.0T with numerous problems (trans shifting, electronics, brakes) with dishonest/deceptive poor customer relations from Audi of America with an actually ok dealer in-between. After the dealer let on how AoA was being deceptive with me, I concluded, "Never again" for Audi/VW.
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      08-07-2018, 01:09 PM   #6
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Runflats have lower scores in every category relating to tire performance.

I have a 2015 with 27k miles on it with no mechanical issues. I will say i do experience a good amount of interior creaking that is well documented on these forums and many have successfully had the dealer apply a fix under warranty.
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      08-07-2018, 05:56 PM   #7
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Thanks for the response.

I want to ask you guys a few things on security. Not sure if you guys have it over the pond, relay crime is on the high here in the UK. Thieves use small transmitter to strengthen and relay signal from owner's keys to unlock the car and drive away. Quite a few BMWs are gone this way.

1) is there a way to disable the key fob whilst at home without taking the battery out? In my Merc I can press the lock button twice to achieve this. Crazier options include wrapping it in tin foil or storing it in the fridge.

2) if they relayed the signal and drove off without a key, would the car recognise after a certain time the key is missing and stop?

3) do you use any car theft deterrent devices to protect your pride and joy?
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      08-07-2018, 07:43 PM   #8
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Thanks for the response.

I want to ask you guys a few things on security. Not sure if you guys have it over the pond, relay crime is on the high here in the UK. Thieves use small transmitter to strengthen and relay signal from owner's keys to unlock the car and drive away. Quite a few BMWs are gone this way.

1) is there a way to disable the key fob whilst at home without taking the battery out? In my Merc I can press the lock button twice to achieve this. Crazier options include wrapping it in tin foil or storing it in the fridge.

2) if they relayed the signal and drove off without a key, would the car recognise after a certain time the key is missing and stop?

3) do you use any car theft deterrent devices to protect your pride and joy?
Wow didn't know this is a thing. I do not believe there is a way to "disable the fob". With that method I'm not even sure an aftermarket alarm system would work as a deterant. (Viper systems)
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      08-07-2018, 09:01 PM   #9
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I want to ask you guys a few things on security. Not sure if you guys have it over the pond, relay crime is on the high here in the UK. Thieves use small transmitter to strengthen and relay signal from owner's keys to unlock the car and drive away.
I believe that only works with CA. If you're concerned keep your keys in a poor man's Faraday Cage, ie, a tea tin.
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      08-15-2018, 08:13 AM   #10
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Thanks for the response.

I finally got the car yesterday from a really far place, and I immediately put 500 miles on it. It only used 3/4 of the tank and according to the range I still have 120 miles to go, I am quite impressed with this. I bet I won't see that again once I start to 'drive' it a bit.

Initial thought is the engine sounds so much better than 4 pots and once unleashed, how bloody quick is this thing! It handles not as flat as I hoped but still better than my previous e-class. It's relatively comfortable on the motorway (or highway to you boys) so I don't mind the compromise.

There are a couple of tiny niggles though -

1) I have to press automatic wiper everytime it rains
2) opening the driver's door doesn't unlock all doors
3) can't seem to be able to change the brightness of the entertainment screen
4) spoiler seems to trap all sorts of dirty crap underneath
5) have to basically stand up to get the driver's seat up (only side bolsters are electric)
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      08-15-2018, 08:42 AM   #11
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1) I have to press automatic wiper everytime it rains
Most settings are remembered, for whatever reason this one is not. But you'll get used to pushing the button on the stalk rather than pushing the stalk itself.
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2) opening the driver's door doesn't unlock all doors
There are places where you would not want to do that, lest you have unwanted passengers suddenly get on board.
Quote:
3) can't seem to be able to change the brightness of the entertainment screen
I've never found it an issue, so I've never looked to see if there is a way to change it.
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4) spoiler seems to trap all sorts of dirty crap underneath
There's a button near the window switches to manually raise and lower it, allowing you to hose out the trough below the spoiler. I find I only have to do so once or twice a year, very little stuff has the opportunity to get in there when it's only deployed at speed.
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5) have to basically stand up to get the driver's seat up (only side bolsters are electric)
Must not be the same seat as mine, which is fully electrically adjustable. The passenger seat is as well.
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      08-29-2018, 02:35 AM   #12
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So 2 weeks in and I am still enjoying driving it. The engine (or should I say the speakers) sound really mean in sport mode, just how much of that is from the engine itself I wonder.

I helped my friend moved house a few days ago and I discovered the rear seats can be reclined, that's a bonus. With the rear seats down and parcel shelfs under the boot, it swallowed everything I chucked in there, so much better than my previous E-class.

Though in terms of issues, I seem to suffer two annoying rattles inside the cabin. The first is from the parcel shelf area since I took it off and on again for moving stuff. It seems to be put back on nice and tight. It can't be anything else in the boot as it's completely empty.

Another one is a biggie, on idle, especially in 'Drive' when cold, there is a loud rattle behind the dashboard, somewhere near the engine, it disappears as soon as the car start moving. I have booked it with BM to check it out, is this well documented here so I can help BM pinpoint the problem?

Under what situation do you use Sport +?
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      08-29-2018, 07:34 AM   #13
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I only use sport when I know I'm going to be in a passing situation. The main thing sport does is to drop the transmission down one gear, which increases the revs and spools up the turbo, for quicker reaction when you hit the throttle. Once I'm done passing I drop back to comfort. I can see some combinations of road and traffic calling for leaving it in sport, luckily I no longer have to deal with those save for an occasional visit to New York or Boston.
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      09-14-2018, 06:30 AM   #14
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A bit of an update, i still enjoy the car massively especially through the country lanes but i have got used to the power and it doesn't feel as brutal as before.

It has developed an annoying rattle just behind the dash and the dealer identified some loose connections behind the dash and put lots of foam etc in and it seems to have done the job. However a new rattle appeared and it seems to be the air inlet pipe just behind the grill and it is resting on the engine frame causing a tapping sound. I pointed this out to the dealer and they have no immediate solution but they will have to book me in again to replace the whole plastic tube.

I guess the problems is nothing but it does annoy me a bit.

During these few days I was given a 220D Active Tourer as a courtesy car and I found the engine to be quite lively and the brakes are so much better than my 335D. It's newer so that might be the explanation or it could be the weight of the car. Do you guys think the brakes is not as sharp? Or is it time to change pads
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      09-14-2018, 07:20 AM   #15
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Older pads have more stopping power than new. If you look at a pad the leading and trailing edges are tapered, so as the pads wear down more pad area contacts the rotors.
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      10-31-2018, 09:01 AM   #16
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Me too

I'm considering doing similar to the OP.
Currently driving an MB C350e and thinking of swapping for a 2017 (facelift) 330d GT M Sport (Business Media).

I had BMWs for years (1987 325i - brill car which I owned for years)
1989 535i - bit of a mistake, didn't keep for long
2002 330d which I had for 13 years from new - awesome car.

The MB C350 CDI was good, the C350e was a mistake - just didn't get on with the hybrid malarky.

I'm hoping the 330d GT will be everything I hope for. I've test driven a 320d GT which was great although lacking a little overtaking power, so the 330d should hit the spot.

Not sure if there is anything I need to know on the test drive or be aware of?

Jeddy
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      02-22-2019, 06:42 AM   #17
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The merc hybrids seem to suffer a fair few problems from what I have seen from my time in the merc forum, without warranty if something goes pop it's gonna be expensive.

You may find the handling not as good as your C-class, it being a smaller and compact with better springs but you'll definitely like the increase in size.

When i first had my car, it was sitting on the forecourt after passing the BMW approved used car test with two low tread tyres, scrapping sound from full lock (turned out to be a brake cover of some sort) and rattles on idle. However it was quickly fixed after I took it in a few days later.

I'd say carefully check the car and go for a long test drive as these BMW tests for used cars don't seem to be very thorough. They were quite firm with their prices as it's not new but you can always ask for other stuff like - full tank of fuel, mats, umbrellas, extra warranty (I got extra 2 years), cups and pens etc

6 months in for me and still love driving it. The needle does shoot up very quickly with the accelerator flat on the floor though it doesn't really give much pull. I went all out with my friend next to me the other day, he was like ''is that it?'' but I was already doing stupid speed.
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      02-22-2019, 07:10 AM   #18
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he was like ''is that it?'' but I was already doing stupid speed.
It's not an MGB, you're so insulated from road noise and so forth that you can end up going quite fast without being aware of it. I don't have any problem going fast enough, going too fast is more likely. When I get on a highway where using cruise is appropriate I always do, immediately setting it at 5 MPH over the posted limit. If I don't I'll end up at 20 MPH over the limit before I know it. The silly thing about this car is that it rides better at 90 MPH than it does at 70.
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      02-22-2019, 09:32 AM   #19
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I should have given an update!
I ended up P/xing my C350e for a 1yo 330d GT with 11k on the clock from a car supermarket over 3 months ago. Haven't regretted it for 1 second.
I was concerned that the M Sport may make the ride hard, not at all, it's perfect, terrific handling. Having said which the run flats do make for a harsh ride on poor surfaces - may see if I can change those for non run flats.

No haggling at car supermarkets - the low price is pretty much the price. Also no turning up to see a non-prepared car. The car was fully prepared ready to go (and went). One or two minor stone chips already repaired to a high standard (unlike the MB dealer who didn't bother to do them and when I complained just touched them with a touch up stick not even bothering with the lacquer! Not sure if the tyres were new, still had loads of tread though.
I always hate that with main stealers, they expect you to agree to buy a car they've not prepared on the promise they'll fix anything you spot which needs fixing and if they don't fix it very well - tough - you've already given your deposit. If you don't spot something then hey - saves them fixing it! No test drive to talk of however, but I'd already done that at BMW garages.

Loving the load area - I can get a pair of 2.5m model glider wings in from the back and between the front seats without them interfering with the driving at all, the fuselage behind the front seats with loads more space for more models and all the gear - perfect.

Not sure if I should have gone for an XDrive though. Maybe next time.
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      02-22-2019, 11:56 AM   #20
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In Hampshire xDrive you can get along without. Not in New Hampshire.
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      02-22-2019, 12:04 PM   #21
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In Hampshire xDrive you can get along without. Not in New Hampshire.
I would agree with you aside my hobby (flying models) regularly takes me onto fields - often wet, occasionally very wet, sometimes muddy too.
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      02-23-2019, 01:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph47mf View Post

6 months in for me and still love driving it. The needle does shoot up very quickly with the accelerator flat on the floor though it doesn't really give much pull. I went all out with my friend next to me the other day, he was like ''is that it?'' but I was already doing stupid speed.
If it's pull you're looking for, check out a Stage 1 or a JB4 from Burger. Does wonders to the stock engine, plug and play, and you can really feel the difference in pull. I went with the Stage 1 and it has been great.
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