[jcordier]

Was driving and car stuttered when I gave it gas and the the drive train function came on. I read the codes and it says cylinder 6 is having issues. I cleared those codes but it still says drive train malfunction and now fuel pump. Now I'm stuck in a parking lot. Two truck drivers said that they can't tow me and left. Waiting on aaa to call me back. Any ideas of how to fix this issue or what it might be? I'm guessing a fuel pump.

[thejeremyman9]

If you are getting no fuel it could be LPFP or EKP (HPFP possible, but less likely). A cylinder 6 only issue shouldnt leave you stranded. Did you turn the car off or did it die?

When you call AAA tell them you have a low car and need a flatbed... been there many times with my 3000gt.

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If you are getting no fuel it could be LPFP or EKP (HPFP possible, but less likely). A cylinder 6 only issue shouldnt leave you stranded. Did you turn the car off or did it die?

When you call AAA tell them you have a low car and need a flatbed... been there many times with my 3000gt.

That cylinder code issue cleared but it's still saying drive train and fuel issue. I finally got aaa to tow me. Took 4 freaking hours though. He just started it somehow and tossed it into neutral right away. I'm going to have to keep that mind if I have to call aaa again. Thank you! I'm thinking maybe a fuel module or fuel pump, but I'm not sure. When I gave it gas earlier it didn't want to move like it normally does. It felt like a Prius or something instead.

[yupetc]

I was just on my way to San Antonio last weekend and 2-hours into the trip, injector 6 broke and the port got washed out. Fuel flooded 5 and 6 to where fuel and injection are cut on those two cylinders. Was still able to start the car up and limp mode home.

In limp mode, it'll limit horsepower to 75 and torque to 150 ish. Was still able to accelerate slowly and get cruisin on I-10 at 90 mph. So one cylinder shouldn't hold you down as you can see I came home after 2 hours running without cylinders 5 and 6.

I just took the head out yesterday to discover this mess. Was afraid of a deeper issue on the piston/rods/etc..

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by yupetc

I was just on my way to San Antonio last weekend and 2-hours into the trip, injector 6 broke and the port got washed out. Fuel flooded 5 and 6 to where fuel and injection are cut on those two cylinders. Was still able to start the car up and limp mode home.

In limp mode, it'll limit horsepower to 75 and torque to 150 ish. Was still able to accelerate slowly and get cruisin on I-10 at 90 mph. So one cylinder shouldn't hold you down as you can see I came home after 2 hours running without cylinders 5 and 6.

I just took the head out yesterday to discover this mess. Was afraid of a deeper issue on the piston/rods/etc..

Wow! I can't believe that happened. I'm glad you made it home in limp mode, and were capable of taking the head out to check. I changed my coils out spark plugs recently. I wonder if it's maybe an injector issue now for myself. My car gave me issues on the highway, so I stopped to turn it off and see if it would turn back on which it wouldn't. When I was cruising I felt like my car lost all its power as well. I took the car to the shop, and they're figuring it out still. They changed out the lpfp, but it's still throwing a couple codes as posted in the pic below, but it still won't start. They tried switching out the fuel relay which doesn't seem to be the culprit either. Maybe it's the hpfp?

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by jcordier

Wow! I can't believe that happened. I'm glad you made it home in limp mode, and were capable of taking the head out to check. I changed my coils out spark plugs recently. I wonder if it's maybe an injector issue now for myself. My car gave me issues on the highway, so I stopped to turn it off and see if it would turn back on which it wouldn't. When I was cruising I felt like my car lost all its power as well. I took the car to the shop, and they're figuring it out still. They changed out the lpfp, but it's still throwing a couple codes as posted in the pic below, but it still won't start. They tried switching out the fuel relay which doesn't seem to be the culprit either. Maybe it's the hpfp?

Even with a completely dead HPFP, you'll still be able to get fuel from LPFP which should just pass fuel through the HPFP plumbing. And with this, you should still be able to start her up; it'll immediately recognize that HPFP isn't working because the rail pressure sensor will tell. It should still start, but will immediately put you in limp mode and engine light will come up. You can still drive with LPFP functioning only, it'll be like what I mentioned above, power is limited and you can limp your way around town. The no start should be something else. Only look at HPFP when your rail pressure reads below 2000psi; that's what I'll suggest.

[714BMW]

Originally Posted by yupetc

Even with a completely dead HPFP, you'll still be able to get fuel from LPFP which should just pass fuel through the HPFP plumbing. And with this, you should still be able to start her up; it'll immediately recognize that HPFP isn't working because the rail pressure sensor will tell. It should still start, but will immediately put you in limp mode and engine light will come up. You can still drive with LPFP functioning only, it'll be like what I mentioned above, power is limited and you can limp your way around town. The no start should be something else. Only look at HPFP when your rail pressure reads below 2000psi; that's what I'll suggest.

You think I could limp around town with a pretty much dead LPFP? My HPFP is a dorch stage 2 and it's working just fine but I need to replace my stock LPFP that crapped out on me. Trying to decide if I should drive like 15-20 minutes to my friends shop to get it replaced or get it towed.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by 714BMW

You think I could limp around town with a pretty much dead LPFP? My HPFP is a dorch stage 2 and it's working just fine but I need to replace my stock LPFP that crapped out on me. Trying to decide if I should drive like 15-20 minutes to my friends shop to get it replaced or get it towed.

Depends on how crapped out your LPFP is. If it's not really delivering enough fuel, the motor will be huffing and puffing due to wrong A/F ratio burn; you'll get bad misfires and knocking; I would shy away from doing that. More than likely, you won't be able to drive it much; assuming it can start.

The factory ECU has it where without a properly functioning HPFP, it'll still work with basic pressure from LPFP. But if your LPFP crapped out, there won't be enough fuel for HPFP to even work with. If anything, I think you'll hurt the HPFP more due to possible cavitation. If it's me, I wouldn't try anything until I address the LPFP first. I would have it towed.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by yupetc

The factory ECU has it where without a properly functioning HPFP, it'll still work with basic pressure from LPFP. But if your LPFP crapped out, there won't be enough fuel for HPFP to even work with. If anything, I think you'll hurt the HPFP more due to possible cavitation. If it's me, I wouldn't try anything until I address the LPFP first. I would have it towed.

You sure about that? The HPFP brings pressure up over 2000psi. The LPFP delivers around 75 psi. I am almost certain that you will NOT be able to drive the car without a working HPFP because of the enormous fuel pressures required for a DI engine. It might start a sputter for a second but even dipping down to 1000psi causes significant misfires so how can the can run with <100 from the LPFP only?

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

You sure about that? The HPFP brings pressure up over 2000psi. The LPFP delivers around 75 psi. I am almost certain that you will NOT be able to drive the car without a working HPFP because of the enormous fuel pressures required for a DI engine. It might start a sputter for a second but even dipping down to 1000psi causes significant misfires so how can the can run with <100 from the LPFP only?

I guess my HPFP didn't completely crap out then. I managed to drive it around town limping, but my pressure reads below 1000psi, it swings up and down. So I just assumed it was LPFP that's doing all the work. Anyway, after I replace it with another HPFP, everything's back to normal.

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by yupetc

I guess my HPFP didn't completely crap out then. I managed to drive it around town limping, but my pressure reads below 1000psi, it swings up and down. So I just assumed it was LPFP that's doing all the work. Anyway, after I replace it with another HPFP, everything's back to normal.

You got super lucky with that. I guess I need a new DME. I wonder if bm3 fried it or something. Ughh, the shops going to call me back soon. I hope I can use the same tune that bought from bm3 for it.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by jcordier

You got super lucky with that. I guess I need a new DME. I wonder if bm3 fried it or something. Ughh, the shops going to call me back soon. I hope I can use the same tune that bought from bm3 for it.

How did they diagnose you need a new DME? That's not a common failure...

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

How did they diagnose you need a new DME? That's not a common failure...

They changed out the lpfp. Then that cleared the fuel pump code, but because of the permanent codes that's still there. They believe that it's the dme

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by jcordier

They changed out the lpfp. Then that cleared the fuel pump code, but because of the permanent codes that's still there. They believe that it's the dme

Sometimes it works if you just disconnect the battery and let the car sit dead for a few days. And sometimes, disconnecting the cables to the device will work to reset it better, too. I've had dealt with some un-clearing DME codes for a E70 transfer case module. On that one I've replaced the transfer case, the module, the traction control and ABS module, and a few other modules, all of which I've gone through the whole ISTA programming to get everything properly put; but the same darn code still persists until when I leave the car running and start unplugging connectors and then plugging them back. Some of which shuts the car down, but I was out of options and one of those did it. I don't remember anymore, but if I may, it's one of those FLEX-RAY or Optical connections that kept getting stuck and passing the same signals to the module.

I also find this to be the case with the optical SPDF cable between my Samsung TV and an Yamaha Home Theatre Unit. Once in a while I just have to unplug the cable and put it back, if not, one of those units will keep being stuck for some reason. Maybe that's what's happening here. You just gotta be suspicious and curious at times.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by jcordier

They changed out the lpfp. Then that cleared the fuel pump code, but because of the permanent codes that's still there. They believe that it's the dme

Well let us know what happens then

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Well let us know what happens then

I definitely will

[LA1Z24]

Most direct engine cars will run off the LPFP ok enough to limp home.

[jcordier]

Not sure how to reply to people with this new app update…


But here’s a Quick update. Replaced dme, wiring to cylinder 6, lpfp, and still have the same issues. Any help about what is going on is highly appreciated. The next step the mechanic is thinking is to remove the vcg and check the timing

[thejeremyman9]

What is current status? Codes? Does it run at all? I thought you posted in the other thread a while back that replacing the DME worked?

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

What is current status? Codes? Does it run at all? I thought you posted in the other thread a while back that replacing the DME worked?

It starts now that it got the dme, but it runs really rough. Cylinder 6 is still giving me an issue. I attached the code below

[yupetc]

Have you ever suspect that #6 injector may be bad?

On my case after I limped home with cylinders 5 and 6 being cut, I got to work with the car during Thanksgiving break and when I got to that part of the valvecover, I see a puddle of gasoline filling up the ignition/injector ports of #5 and #6. I paper toweled as much gasoline out as I can when I disassemble the whole ignition and injection assembly. Come to find, the gasoline had eaten through the adhesives of the ignition coils, so I could only pull the coil out and the bottom sparkplug sleeve was separated and stayed on the spark plug. At this time that sleeve has just been soaked in gasoline, so I wouldn't go pull it fresh. When I got to the injectors, #5 came out fine, but #6 had some carbon browning all over its body. Mind you, this injector port has been repaired before using an insert which is very similar method to doing a time-sert thread repair. Long story short, this insert failed and all this carbon and browning build-up are witness marks of combustion blowing by and reaching the top of the engine. So yeah, my injector port got washed out. And when I compare injector 6 with other injectors, #6 has been elongated by 3.4mm. So it's evident that this injector has gone through some real deformation and have failed. When I plug this injector to a jig I made to carb clean the injectors, without activating the injector's opening/closing mechanism, this injector has a huge leak at its teflon sealing zone. So that explains the full-on gasoline smell on my way limping home and the really bad miles per gallon I get. I ran half a tank of gas on a 110 mile trip home, figure that. Overall, I've gone through several months of driving with a bad injector port #6 and the repair kit can only let it hold for so long before washing out and killing the injector. And this all started because on first of my install of these injectors on a forged internals build, I've forgotten to install the dampener ring for injector #6. I ended up buying a new head and got everything put back together; ensuring all injector dampener rings and seals are properly installed. Now the car runs like a champ!

I went a long way explaining my situation to see if your car has a possibility of an injector failure to be aware of. And it may behoove you to take a look because your symptoms do have semblance to mine to an extent when the injector is leaking badly, I did get a code associated to pressure sensor recognizing a lowered HPFP reading.

[jcordier]

Ever since they updated the app. I couldn’t figure out how to find this post. Anyway, after two and a half months I got my car back. They had to replace the DME again. That finally got my car back up and running.