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      09-13-2021, 07:32 AM   #45
AlmondJayRoM3
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AGM batteries should be 12.8-12.9 VDC fully charged.
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      09-16-2021, 08:33 PM   #46
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I left the CTEK 24hrs connected for the first time. Right after I removed the charger, the resting battery showed 13.3V

One hour later it dropped to 12.7V.

Does this mean the battery is somewhat still in pretty decent shape?
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      09-16-2021, 09:15 PM   #47
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That's about right. If it's still above 12v come morning you're probably OK, especially as you don't have cold winter temperatures to deal with.
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      09-16-2021, 09:23 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micharlie View Post
I left the CTEK 24hrs connected for the first time. Right after I removed the charger, the resting battery showed 13.3V

One hour later it dropped to 12.7V.

Does this mean the battery is somewhat still in pretty decent shape?
Get the battery load tested after charging to really find out.

The question you really need to ask yourself is can your battery be maintained and not leave you stranded under normal operating conditions?
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      09-16-2021, 09:34 PM   #49
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The real question is how much time you're going to waste troubleshooting a battery instead of just replacing it and forgetting about it.
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      09-17-2021, 12:36 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
The real question is how much time you're going to waste troubleshooting a battery instead of just replacing it and forgetting about it.
This.

I’m all about saving a buck but not at the cost of unnecessary wasted time and added stress.
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      09-17-2021, 02:33 PM   #51
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And if you had a dollar for every time it was recommended that the poster buy a battery and it turned out to be something else you could afford a new battery, at dealer prices. For example: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1360823

Being a New Englander I always follow the rule that you can't fix it if it ain't broken.
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      09-17-2021, 03:17 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
And if you had a dollar for every time it was recommended that the poster buy a battery and it turned out to be something else you could afford a new battery, at dealer prices. For example: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1360823

Being a New Englander I always follow the rule that you can't fix it if it ain't broken.
Absolutely true but in the OPs case with the age of the battery, all the symptoms and the first load test at the parts store, it’s probably due for replacement.
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      09-17-2021, 04:55 PM   #53
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It probably 'is' due for a replacement, but, OP, if it was me, I'd do what others have said. Charge it, monitor it, see what you get. You might not want to leave it unstarted for weeks...and after being that low, it really did need a long drive to restore what you've lost--you've also undoubtedly lost some capability from it you'll never get back.

If you have a garage and can charge easily...just do that and then maintain it from under the hood. Keep it up for a year. Maybe try charging every few days...it's probably good enough for most uses--maybe not unlimited short trips--the starting is what drains it.

Good luck.
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      09-17-2021, 05:03 PM   #54
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Quote:
Absolutely true but in the OPs case with the age of the battery, all the symptoms and the first load test at the parts store, it’s probably due for replacement.
His latest result doesn't say that. That's the thing about batteries, you can't jump to quick conclusions. But every time something gets asked about here that might, might be battery related the knee jerk reaction diagnosticians waste no time in saying 'Get a new battery', usually ignoring all the other possible causes for the symptom. Failure to determine the true cause before blindly tossing in a battery only adds insult to financial injury when it turns out that it wasn't the battery after all.
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      09-18-2021, 06:04 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
His latest result doesn't say that. That's the thing about batteries, you can't jump to quick conclusions. But every time something gets asked about here that might, might be battery related the knee jerk reaction diagnosticians waste no time in saying 'Get a new battery', usually ignoring all the other possible causes for the symptom. Failure to determine the true cause before blindly tossing in a battery only adds insult to financial injury when it turns out that it wasn't the battery after all.
Which is why I said get it load tested after charging it over night. It’s a quick way to objectively say if the battery is good or not.

12.7 V read off a multimeter after waiting an hour doesn’t show anything other than it is holding voltage in a no load condition. Doesn’t really show anything about capacity and the ability to push out amperage. It fact after an hour it is still probably a surface charge.
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      09-18-2021, 09:05 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
And if you had a dollar for every time it was recommended that the poster buy a battery and it turned out to be something else you could afford a new battery, at dealer prices. For example: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1360823

Being a New Englander I always follow the rule that you can't fix it if it ain't broken.
You've been talking about the battery the whole time. If you've got some other area to look for the issue then maybe speak up.

Point still stands that his battery is 6 years old. He had a pretty rough start and it got measurably low, which isn't good for it. Probably best to replace it anyway. Then you KNOW it's not the battery that's the issue.

This is valuable in troubleshooting. You don't have to be absolutely sure about a potential fix to try it. It just needs to be probable. Then when you compound it with something like the fact it may need replacement relatively soon anyway, it's kind of a no brainer.

The linked shifter thread IMO was poor troubleshooting. No other symptoms in the car except shifter malfunction? Probably not a battery issue.

Should he have a CTEK around anyway? Yes absolutely. So OP really doesn't lose in any path forward here.
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      09-21-2021, 02:26 PM   #57
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To end the discussion. I had it replaced today at BMW service. The cars starts as soon as I hit the ignition button with zero lag.

This is why I decided to pull the trigger.

-After a full charge, resting voltage was 12.2V the next night. I thought it is not holding a good charge.

-I am leaving town for a while and don’t want my wife to deal with it if it causes any issues.

Last edited by micharlie; 09-27-2021 at 08:14 AM..
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      09-21-2021, 02:43 PM   #58
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Not that I had a bad start, but now it starts instantly instantly.
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      10-14-2021, 03:54 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micharlie View Post
I am not trying to avoid to pay for a battery replacement. I am just trying to see if it can be saved at least for another year or so.

It is an 6 year old battery. I highly doubt the previous owner replaced the factory installed battery.

We had to leave our car parked for 16 days last July. No one was available to start, not even at least once. When we came back, the car started with a tiny hick up but it started and run fine. I maybe sensed a little high/rough idle but other than that no issues.

Pepboys tested the battery from the trunk today. It said 45% remains on it and message says REPLACE. I asked him if I could charge it with CTEK (I need to purchase one) and register to see if it brings the battery back to life for a while. He said no. He said if the battery was still good, it would say recharge. It says replace meaning buy a new battery.

Is this true? Am I going to waste my time with charging, etc. or should I just buy a new battery.

I asked few local shops and I could not believe they were asking $400, even $500. This is the same price as a dealer, it does not make sense why they charge as high as authorized BMW service.

Anyway, what are your recommendations?

Thanks!
If you buy Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0 (BLE) OBD2 Fault Code Reader OBDII Code Scanner Car Check Engine Light for iOS/Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGB4873...UTF8&psc=1

Then download then pay for Bimmer link. You can register the battery yourself with it and any other bmw in the future. Just have to buy the battery somewhere.
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      12-06-2021, 10:51 AM   #60
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Hi - I'm looking to replace the OEM car battery on my 2015 335D
The Original BM battery is 90Ah and 900CCA - the closest equivalent I can find is the Bosch AGM 019 Car Battery - S5 A13, or the EXIDE EK950 019AGM, both of which are 95AH but only 850CCA. Will the 850CCA be sufficient for a 335D - anyone replaced their OEM with a different car battery ?

Comments/advice appreciated as both of these are approx £100 cheaper than OEM BMW batter at £233 and that's before fitting - which I'm looking to do myself.
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      12-06-2021, 11:18 AM   #61
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1. Don't post the same question in more than one forum section.
2. Don't ask a question unrelated to the thread title. Start a new thread.
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