02-07-2019, 07:53 PM | #45 |
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That's generally true, and on some cars, a freer flowing muffler will make a performance difference. But on these cars, the only real area of restriction in the exhaust is the cat in the DP and on the N26 in the mid pipe, everything else flows just fine for the amount of power the N2x does and can make. So taking out the cat is the only exhaust mod you can do to pick up any power for these cars.
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02-08-2019, 08:27 AM | #46 |
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There is a 3rd option if you have the tools and know how. I did it on my N20 228i. Same as the muffler mod with E92 M3's.
I basically gutted the stock muffler and welded it back together. It's posted in the 2addicts section. Pics and all. There are also vids I posted on YT. I also deleted the resonator. I may do this again with the F31. Start to finish was 4 hours with a friend in the garage. I had NO drone at any speed, in any gear.
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02-08-2019, 10:36 AM | #47 | |
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Quote:
1. Did you completely gut it or did you leave some of the inner workings in there? 2. About how many hours should it take a proper exhaust shop? 3. Has anyone gone from a muffler delete to an internally modified stock muffler and can comment on the change in sound? Thanks! |
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02-10-2019, 02:02 PM | #48 | ||
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This is what my car sounded like. Much quieter than a delete for sure. I gutted the internal pipe in the center and exit side chambers out of the 3 that are in there. I also left out ALL of the fiberglass insulation. There are 2 divider walls that separated the chambers which have holes in them like a cheese grater. The divider walls make up the structure of the muffler internally. Here is the thread with all my pictures. OEM exhaust mod https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1321131 Doing it again I won't cut such a large hole. Just enough to chop the inner tube off and pull it out along with the insulation. Then it will be easier to weld the flap back on. I used a TIG but it could be done with a MIG if you manage the heat and shrinkage enough. You could just remove the exhaust hangers and let the muffler drop down, cut a piece of the muffler wall like a flat on the rear facing side of the can. Only cut into the center and left sections. That would give you enough room to pull the insulation out, cut the large tube into a few pieces, pull it out as well as some of the dual tubes that exit on the left to the flap and tips. This is how I'm going to do it next time. That way I wouldn't have to weld the muffler back on the center section where the resonator will be deleted.
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328 F31 xDrive/OSM/Venetian Luxury Line/Cold Weather/Premium/Driving Assist/Nav/Tech "Golden Goose"
78' Honda CB400A project http://www.instagram.com/steve_inf31 |
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02-21-2021, 04:21 AM | #50 |
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03-02-2021, 03:51 AM | #53 |
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If you like that constant 4 cylinder exhaust note when idling and a much louder 4 cyl exhaust note while accelerating go for it. But usually it's just loud and not in a good way loud. In a dirty cheap way.
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03-03-2021, 05:51 PM | #54 |
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I picked up a AWE mid pipe recently and am debating on whether to use a Remus exhaust instead of AWE's... anyone else give that go? Remus and AWE both sound great but wondering if the Remus will require some modifications (welding or cutting).
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03-04-2021, 10:12 AM | #55 |
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I have a VRSF catless DP, stock resonator, with a muffler delete. The car is definitely loud and droney from 2000-2500 RPM's. Other than this range its doable, but I will be going to the Megan Supremo is released on X-PH I'll be going this route. Had to tune down BM3 burble settings to almost nothing with the current setup due to how load they are.
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