[Avaley]

Originally Posted by jaylonepa

Anyone running the Injen intake? currently have a BMS on and I honestly dont think im a fan.

I have my car in the shop, but based on my research the BMS issue is that it is only the filter head, and not the intake pipe, so there are still some flow restrictions.

While the BMS is a great value option and the best $ per horsepower, I chose the Injen given the factory advertised dyno performance gains were greater than others on the market, and I don't mind an open intake design.

I'll have videos of everything at a later date!

[Dronamashina]

Originally Posted by Avaley

I have my car in the shop, but based on my research the BMS issue is that it is only the filter head, and not the intake pipe, so there are still some flow restrictions.

While the BMS is a great value option and the best $ per horsepower, I chose the Injen given the factory advertised dyno performance gains were greater than others on the market, and I don't mind an open intake design.

I'll have videos of everything at a later date!

Open intake is increasing heat soaking. I had bms intake and changed it to kn filter in stock air box.

[Doubleojon]

Originally Posted by Dronamashina

Open intake is increasing heat soaking. I had bms intake and changed it to kn filter in stock air box.

So would it be better to keep the stock air box and do the k&n filter, as opposed to an Injen intake?

[Avaley]

Originally Posted by Doubleojon

So would it be better to keep the stock air box and do the k&n filter, as opposed to an Injen intake?

various opinions depending on what the person replying is using.

I made my decision based on the fact that Injen had shown dyno test of stock vs theirs and the Injen showed +10 hp/tq or so.

I personally don't think the B48 generates enough heat for there to be a problem and the Injen comes with a fairly large heat shield.

I can't actually confirm on dyno but my predisposition is to trust injen as I doubt they would just falsify a dyno test.

[Dronamashina]

Originally Posted by Doubleojon

So would it be better to keep the stock air box and do the k&n filter, as opposed to an Injen intake?

I would say so. That’s what I did. The difference in intake temperature may be not that big but couple degrees higher is already a loss of power. Stock b48 is already cold meaning it uses cold air from the street.

[Avaley]

Originally Posted by Dronamashina

I would say so. That’s what I did. The difference in intake temperature may be not that big but couple degrees higher is already a loss of power. Stock b48 is already cold meaning it uses cold air from the street.

Fwiw, Drona has the fastest B48 i've seen on this forum so far so i'm inclined to support his suggestion. You can always buy the K&N first.

If heat soak is actually an issue, upgrading to the CSF heat exchanger will solve your intake temp problems.

[SRHosein]

Since we talking about air intakes, I have BMS with ftp charge pipe. I did logs with it then switched to stock air box. IATs slightly better with stock air box. I believe stock air box with a drop in air filter is best option. Also the HFM (lb/min) was as follows:
1. BMS intake was 21lb/min
2. Stock airbox and stock filter 28lb/min
3. Stock airbox and drop-in aftermarket filter 30lb/min

Unsure if the BMS housing is slightly different size causing the MAF sensor to give an inaccurate reading. However the sound you get from aftermarket intake is much better lol.

[jaylonepa]

Thanks for the input, I too wound up going with the injen!

[Doubleojon]

So after a lot of research, consideration, and prioritizing, I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on BM3... and forgoing the downpipe for now. As it is my daily and sees a LOT of stop and go (I live in the city), as well as some road trips, a catless DP is out of the question. High flow catted is just too expensive to justify the diminished gains.
If I'm only going Stage 1 93, is a charge pipe necessary?

As for the intake, I'm really back and forth on this. Will I be happy with just a high flow air filter and the tune, or is it worth it to invest in the Injen Evolution intake? The heat shield seems to mimic that of the stock airbox, which should mostly eliminate the heat soak Drona spoke of... Right?

[Dronamashina]

Originally Posted by Doubleojon

As for the intake, I'm really back and forth on this. Will I be happy with just a high flow air filter and the tune, or is it worth it to invest in the Injen Evolution intake? The heat shield seems to mimic that of the stock airbox, which should mostly eliminate the heat soak Drona spoke of... Right?

Yes that option should be ok in terms of iats, but you really shouldn’t expect any noticeable gains in power. That’s mostly for sound difference if you like it.

[Knifeedge2k1]

Originally Posted by Doubleojon

So after a lot of research, consideration, and prioritizing, I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on BM3... and forgoing the downpipe for now. As it is my daily and sees a LOT of stop and go (I live in the city), as well as some road trips, a catless DP is out of the question. High flow catted is just too expensive to justify the diminished gains.
If I'm only going Stage 1 93, is a charge pipe necessary?

As for the intake, I'm really back and forth on this. Will I be happy with just a high flow air filter and the tune, or is it worth it to invest in the Injen Evolution intake? The heat shield seems to mimic that of the stock airbox, which should mostly eliminate the heat soak Drona spoke of... Right?

Intakes are never worth it for the power, for the sound though it's up to you. Remember then the B48 largely shares the same architecture as the B58 which needs to flow 50% more air with almost the same diameter plumbing. The intake simply is not a bottleneck at any point of a b48 build while staying with the stock turbo.

The chargepipe is also not needed in any way, money better spent elsewhere. In the N series engine there were lots of reports of cracks but the B series engine don't have this problem.

A high flow downpipe is absolutely a good idea, not only will you actually get more power but the response is going to improve a lot more from having less restriction on the turbo

[Knifeedge2k1]

Originally Posted by Knifeedge2k1

Intakes are never worth it for the power, for the sound though it's up to you. Remember then the B48 largely shares the same architecture as the B58 which needs to flow 50% more air with almost the same diameter plumbing. The intake simply is not a bottleneck at any point of a b48 build while staying with the stock turbo.

The charge pipe is also not needed in any way, money better spent elsewhere. In the N series engine there were lots of reports of cracks but the B series engine don't have this problem.

A high flow downpipe is absolutely a good idea, not only will you actually get more power but the response is going to improve a lot more from having less restriction on the turbo

When it comes to power per dollar on the B48 platform it's

1) Tune (30to40hp for ~800usd)
2) Downpipe (& OPF/GPF delete if you have it) (10 to 30hp for 1000usd)
3) WMI (system costs about maybe 1000usd to setup if you include the required chargepipe and you can probably squeeze out an extra couple psi from when the system is on)
4) everything else is pretty pointless for power, so is the exhaust actually. For the sound, sure that's personal taste, but don't think you're buying horsepower at a good price because you're not

[Knifeedge2k1]

To all those who claim intakes make power by bringing up manufacturer provided dyno charts

Remember dynos operate in the real world. The same car on the same day in the same conditions with the same parts can make two runs 30 minutes apart with 10 horsepower difference between them. So tell me how is it possible that with that much noise in the data can one confidently state (my intake makes 5 horsepower).

Engines are not complicated, they are air pumps. Until intake manufacturers put their intakes on a flow bench and measure the pressure drop versus stock airboxes I'll maintain they're all snake oil. Either they have the data but don't want to share (because it's embarrassing) or they never did it (in which case the system is poorly designed because that's literally the single parameter you need to keep track of to see if your system is doing its job.

Performance air filters are even worse (im looking at you k&n). Filtration and flow are directly inversely correlated, unless you think the OEM has completely shit the need you can't possibly think that there are filters out there that can both flow better and filter better at the same time. OEM filters are so good that even at WOT you're not getting pressure drops across the filter of even 0.1psi compared to not running a filter at all (fwiw this is roughly 1 horsepower on a 300 horsepower engine). So going from stock filter to no filter means you might gain 1hp (literally the best possible improvement) but you give up 100% filtration.

[Doubleojon]

Quick update:

I ended up going with MG Flasher, and I'm so happy with it.
Prior to flashing, I went to an empty parking lot and did a launch using launch control. I then parked, flashed the 93 octane tune, and did another launch. What a difference! I had my wife with me, and even she noticed that it was a big difference; this is the same person that had to be shown side by side before and after pictures to notice the difference after I installed my M Sport bumper and cf lip.
Thanks to everyone's advice, I won't be installing an intake. Somewhere down the line I'll do a high flow catted dp (still my daily, still have to pass emissions), but in the meantime I'll likely focus on things to improve handling.