[TheShadow]

So I am taking it upon myself to perform a oil change myself on my car. I have the low profile jack, jack stands, the oil, the filter. My problem is my car is lowered on eibach springs and I have no idea of how to find out if the jack is in the center jack point in the front of the car. I cant look below and see anything. I am sorry if i am asking a stupid question but this is why i was wanting to do the oil change and other things myself on my car and learn. I just dont want to break or screw up anything and beat myself up over it. If anyone can give me some instructions, tips, advice id greatly appreciate it.

Thank you.

[CHI3F]

Get yourself a couple of 2x4’s. Drive your front wheels onto the wood. That’ll give you a couple extra inches of clearance.

[TheShadow]

Originally Posted by CHI3F

Get yourself a couple of 2x4’s. Drive your front wheels onto the wood. That’ll give you a couple extra inches of clearance.

You think it will be enough to look underneath and see if the jack is where is supposed to be?

[Busa1]

Originally Posted by TheShadow

You think it will be enough to look underneath and see if the jack is where is supposed to be?

If one 2x4 isn't enough, use 2 on each side. Lay one down on each side and lay a second one down on top of the first ones sitting about 6" behind the bottom one. Basically it'll look like two steps. The bottom piece would be longer than the top piece. This is the way I jack up my car.

[Billfitz]

Get a pair of these:
https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-119.../dp/B0117EETEK

[jh_f30]

I agree with the ramp suggestion, whether it's the RhinoRamps or homemade. If you need help locating the center jack points:

[upsidedownfunnel]

There are two methods I have used: (these steps assume you've already chocked the appropriate tires and the parking brake is set.

1) Jack up the rear jack point (in front of the rear tire). If you jack it up enough the front jack point (behind the front tire) will get high enough to put up onto a jack stand. Lower the car now onto the jack stand on the front point.

Then, move your low profile jack to the central jack point, jack it up, and the rest is straightforward enough.

See here (at the 1:00 mark):

Note, when you lower the car again, remember to do it in the reverse order. If you lower the front, you'll get the jack jammed under your car.

-OR-

2) Jack up the front jack point and place a few 2x8s cut into 2ft long pieces or a few bricks or pavers under the tire. Lower the front tire onto your bricks/wood then you'll have enough room on the central point to place your jack. Keep the wood/bricks under the tire even when it's not touching. It's a good backup and you won't forget to use them when you lower your car again.

-OR-

3) Use the two jack method. If you can find a cheap used jack or borrow one, just jack up on side jack point, then slide your low profile jack into the central jack point.

**Also, I like to use those jack pad adapaters. Aluminum ones on eBay are about $10 each. They're not necessary though.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Get a pair of these:
https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-119.../dp/B0117EETEK

This is what I use. I put a couple of flat pieces of wood right in front of them and drive up. And then use a couple of homemade chocks for the back wheels--really easy.

[eluded]

Use some 2x4s as others noted.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by jgoens

This is what I use. I put a couple of flat pieces of wood right in front of them and drive up. And then use a couple of homemade chocks for the back wheels--really easy.

And really fast. Thirty seconds and you're ready to go. When I need to have more clearance in the rear I still use the ramps to get the front up first, then jack the back using the rear jack positions.

[grizfish]

These are the goods for a low vehicle. I use a Harbor Freight low profile jack and it gets wheels off the ground with the frame supported 12". Larger floor jacks may not fit.

Makes jack placement a breeze, compared with your normal jack stand. Well worth the price for me.

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Rhino ramps worked perfect for me. I was weary about them but after using them for my Jeep Grand Cherokee a few times I'm a fan.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

Rhino ramps worked perfect for me. I was weary about them but after using them for my Jeep Grand Cherokee a few times I'm a fan.

Just to add to that, I was never really a ramp guy until I got this car and realized that for oil changes and DP change they are great and safe. Still use a jack to take wheels off.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by jgoens

Just to add to that, I was never really a ramp guy until I got this car and realized that for oil changes and DP change they are great and safe. Still use a jack to take wheels off.

+1

Absolutely worth the $40 investment in RhinoRamps. More than enough clearance for oil changes, even on a lowered car.

I also use them to lift the car up high enough to fit my jack if I do need to take the wheels off for whatever reason. Roll up the ramps, jack the car up off the ramps while keeping them in place, then when I'm done, lower the car back onto the ramps, clear out the jack and roll off the ramps.

[TheShadow]

I appreciate the advice guys, would these ramps be enough clearance?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html
6-1/2 Ton Capacity (6500lbs per ramp)
Extruded traction grooves
35-1/2 in. L x 12 in. W x 8-1/2 in. H
6 in. max lift height
17 degree ramp angle
Integrated rubber stops to prevent ramp slip.

Would this be enough to clear my lowered car?

Reaoson im asking if these specific ones are ok is because i have a gift card to this store and would rather use that if needed than to spend cash.

[The Airman]

Originally Posted by TheShadow

I appreciate the advice guys, would these ramps be enough clearance?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html
6-1/2 Ton Capacity (6500lbs per ramp)
Extruded traction grooves
35-1/2 in. L x 12 in. W x 8-1/2 in. H
6 in. max lift height
17 degree ramp angle
Integrated rubber stops to prevent ramp slip.

Would this be enough to clear my lowered car?

Reaoson im asking if these specific ones are ok is because i have a gift card to this store and would rather use that if needed than to spend cash.

I think they are the same darn thing as the ones at amazon. That's where I got mine and they work. There are made in China anyways. If they don't work.....take them back.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by TheShadow

I appreciate the advice guys, would these ramps be enough clearance?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html
6-1/2 Ton Capacity (6500lbs per ramp)
Extruded traction grooves
35-1/2 in. L x 12 in. W x 8-1/2 in. H
6 in. max lift height
17 degree ramp angle
Integrated rubber stops to prevent ramp slip.

Would this be enough to clear my lowered car?

Reaoson im asking if these specific ones are ok is because i have a gift card to this store and would rather use that if needed than to spend cash.

Yeah. Those will work fine. Same dimensions as the Rhino Ramps I use. If you find you have problems with clearance going up the ramps, put something like a 2x6 in front of the ramp as sort of an extension.

[TheShadow]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Yeah. Those will work fine. Same dimensions as the Rhino Ramps I use. If you find you have problems with clearance going up the ramps, put something like a 2x6 in front of the ramp as sort of an extension.

Awesome!

Getting it now!

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Yeah. Those will work fine. Same dimensions as the Rhino Ramps I use. If you find you have problems with clearance going up the ramps, put something like a 2x6 in front of the ramp as sort of an extension.

Yeah, you will have to use boards. My car is not lowered and is an M-sport but without boards it hits the ground hard. I think the boards I use are about 2 inches thick, nearly as wide as the ramp and about 2 feet long.