[Zarchuk]

Hey everyone, if anyone is willing please take a look at the following log and let me know if you notice any reason why my engine knocked at full boost during a hard test pull.

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=671d105dfa32f364f8fd7ba5

Extra log for comparison, but no knock detected here:
https://bootmod3.net/log?id=671d1cecc6da45401a66cbb4

2014 435 xdrive, running BM3 Stage 1 93 in the Northeast region...about 50-mid 60s in temp this time of year. Only mod is an ER charge pipe. Bought the car around 45k mileage, sitting right around 85k miles now. I've done my due diligence researching on the forums to understand how to read the logs. From what I can tell, my actual vs targets all look clean for boost/hpfp. My afr seems normal to me as well, same for wgdc. Only thing that stands out to me is my ignition timing, have a set of new stock plugs/coils arriving in a couple days to swap out before I do a road trip to NY this weekend.

Extra info in case useful: Regular maintenance done, oil changes every 5k miles (at least I've tried to be consistent to that since around 70k.) Valve cover and gasket/oil filter gasket/oil cooler gasket/intake manifold gaskets all replaced around 70k as well.

Thanks in advance!

[harkes]

Originally Posted by Zarchuk

Hey everyone, if anyone is willing please take a look at the following log and let me know if you notice any reason why my engine knocked at full boost during a hard test pull.

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=671d105dfa32f364f8fd7ba5

Extra log for comparison, but no knock detected here:
https://bootmod3.net/log?id=671d1cecc6da45401a66cbb4

2014 435 xdrive, running BM3 Stage 1 93 in the Northeast region...about 50-mid 60s in temp this time of year. Only mod is an ER charge pipe. Bought the car around 45k mileage, sitting right around 85k miles now. I've done my due diligence researching on the forums to understand how to read the logs. From what I can tell, my actual vs targets all look clean for boost/hpfp. My afr seems normal to me as well, same for wgdc. Only thing that stands out to me is my ignition timing, have a set of new stock plugs/coils arriving in a couple days to swap out before I do a road trip to NY this weekend.

Extra info in case useful: Regular maintenance done, oil changes every 5k miles (at least I've tried to be consistent to that since around 70k.) Valve cover and gasket/oil filter gasket/oil cooler gasket/intake manifold gaskets all replaced around 70k as well.

Thanks in advance!

That is horrible! What ever gas you are using is closer to donkey piss than 93. I doubt you can even run 91 map with that.

[Zarchuk]

Originally Posted by harkes

That is horrible! What ever gas you are using is closer to donkey piss than 93. I doubt you can even run 91 map with that.

Oh no is that really what the problem is? How can you tell it’s an octane issue vs bad plugs/coils? I assumed it was the latter because I haven’t changed them since I bought the car, and it’s been right around 40k miles I’ve put on since then.

Gas is Shell 93 octane, this particular spot always has amazing prices lol. I thought Shell was considered as top tier gas!

[harkes]

Originally Posted by Zarchuk

Oh no is that really what the problem is? How can you tell it’s an octane issue vs bad plugs/coils? I assumed it was the latter because I haven’t changed them since I bought the car, and it’s been right around 40k miles I’ve put on since then.

Gas is Shell 93 octane, this particular spot always has amazing prices lol. I thought Shell was considered as top tier gas!

Cannot tell from the log if ign coils/plugs/bad gas. But I cannot imagine this being coils or plug when it is so consistently bad across all cylinders.

New plugs and coils will never hurt but I'd recommend you to throw in a can or two of octane booster to verify bad gas.

[Zarchuk]

Originally Posted by harkes

Cannot tell from the log if ign coils/plugs/bad gas. But I cannot imagine this being coils or plug when it is so consistently bad across all cylinders.


New plugs and coils will never hurt but I'd recommend you to throw in a can or two of octane booster to verify bad gas.

Damn, well I'll do my plugs/coils first and take another log and see if timing is still bad, if so then I'll add the octane booster. One variable at a time is what I'll try.

Is my understanding on how to read these lines correct? That the timing lines for all of the cylinders should be on top of each other, meaning very minimal differences from one to the other. Or is that not necessarily what I should be paying attention to.

Also, if by chance it is not an octane issue, or a plugs/coils issue....is there another reason you know of that would be impacting my timing this way?

[Zarchuk]

Changed my plugs/coils today. The drive definitely feels a lot better, but I think my logs still look disgusting for the timing.

Hard pulls in sport mode:

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=67245cd2fab51b22bfb90f63

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=67245ceefab51b22bfb90f65

More moderate pulls comfort mode:

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=67245c2f0a87db630d637b1c

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=67245c8b9b886442f283d9ad

My spark plug out of the 5th cylinder looked horrible. Caked up oil all over. Rest of the plugs all had some carbon buildup but nothing crazy like this.

[SlumpLord3000]

Get a DP. Figure out where to get E85. You can usually find E85 by airports. Get two 5 gallon gas cans from Amazon for $45 if E85 is far. Install Flex Fuel kit from PTF. Get HPFP, walnut blast your intake valves while you're at it. Get a oil catch can. This will resolve your fueling issues because now you and your car can drink Everclear together. You'll also be at Stage 2+.
Ethanol will make your engine run cooler, increase octane, spool your turbo faster, cool your turbo and clean out your exhaust if you have burbles.

[Zarchuk]

Originally Posted by SlumpLord3000

Get a DP. Figure out where to get E85. You can usually find E85 by airports. Get two 5 gallon gas cans from Amazon for $45 if E85 is far. Install Flex Fuel kit from PTF. Get HPFP, walnut blast your intake valves while you're at it. Get a oil catch can. This will resolve your fueling issues because now you and your car can drink Everclear together. You'll also be at Stage 2+.
Ethanol will make your engine run cooler, increase octane, spool your turbo faster, cool your turbo and clean out your exhaust if you have burbles.

Thank you for the advice! It’s definitely in the plans. I can’t go catless because I don’t want to deal with the inspection headaches in MA, once I have some extra cash I can splurge on planning on a fabspeed high flow dp. Ethanol route sounds like a fun time.

Would be nice though to feel safe I don’t have some kind of lurking internal issue like the timing chain or worse before I start spending money to go beyond stage 1.

[Zarchuk]

Well with embarrassment I have some additional information to add...
Planning for an oil change I've realized I've been using LL04 for about I'd guess what's been about 25k-35k miles. In my idiotic stupor I think I misunderstood the whole OEM tags FCP uses and thought by picking the below product I was using genuine BMW.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11427566327kt1

After the first time I just kept re-ordering the same kit never paying any attention to it again until I started spending so much time researching potential issues after the timing issues in my logs.

I've spent a lot of time reading through all of the oil threads....I know how quick those can go off the rails with debates and preferences. I'm ordering an express shipment from FCP to quickly get proper LL01 back in. Probably the LiquiMoly, thinking I'll go Molygen 5W-40 after all of the glowing reviews of the product. 5W cause I'm in MA temps don't really go too far below zero on the short period they do in Winter. Upping to 40 visc at operating temps since I'm tuned and probably need the extra protection with my idiotic LL04 use for 30k miles.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...7566327kt-lm-2

From what I've read, using LL04 oil in U.S. strict no no because of the sulfur content differences in gas here vs Europe. Does anyone what kind of damage I may have done running it for so long? I drive my car HARD and once at operating temps I'd say for a regular drive I average at least 3/4 WOT pulls through the gears when I get a chance on the highway or light traffic.

Second and last question...I'm thinking I should do LiquiMoly additive kit Step 1, before I change my oil to try and clear up any deposits I've using LL04. (guessing I should adopt Step 2 later in the future with my regular oil changes). Would using the Step 1 be a good idea? Or could my engine be in a fragile state now and would using these kinds of additives be dangerous in terms of blowups after?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-c...i-moly-lmk0003

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-c...i-moly-lmk0004

[SlumpLord3000]

Shouldn't be an issue with the oil. If you're concerned do an oil flush. Put in the oil flush into warm engine, drive about 10 miles, change oil with like 4 qts, run it for a few minutes then flush it again to get any oil flush out and use LL01 oil for final oil change. My stealership has a deal, 3 oil changes 10k miles or /1 per year for $225. Check your stealership for specials.