[kabrichx]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Hi

Some news on that front:
I've ordered both a molded (plastic/polymer black piece) and a 3d printed part (white plastic prototype, 6 EUR for one piece)

The black pastic one broke quickly when trying to fit over my stock dampers.

The white 3d printed one held up but i suspect is a bit too thick, so the metal final version wouldn't be so compliant.

However the great news is the knocking sound is gone, and seems now solid.
Photos of before/after strut hats you can see the white plastic bit under the nut.

i'll make a revised 3d model with slightly thinner walls and perhaps risk ordering in metal directly - stainless steel at 35 EUR a piece when ordering 2, or hesitating with titanium at 41 EUR a piece isn't much more expensive and could be a bit more solid too. Thoughts on that?

Would this size be same for OEM AH3 and F80 Parts?

Also, have you posted a picture of your CFBR and the BMC Air Filter, or are you using filter with new intake?

I picked up used CF Dinan Air Intake with high hopes it would work.

No joy with CFBR.

Will post it for sale in Classifieds in next few days if anyone without this CFBR mod is interested.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by kabrichx

Would this size be same for OEM AH3 and F80 Parts?

Also, have you posted a picture of your CFBR and the BMC Air Filter, or are you using filter with new intake?

I picked up used CF Dinan Air Intake with high hopes it would work.

No joy with CFBR.

Will post it for sale in Classifieds in next few days if anyone without this CFBR mod is interested.

No reason why it wouldn?t fit stock dampers but i?ll be able to confirm when i get the final metal pieces - eta dec 1st

If i confirm it fits i?ll share the model file so other people can order theirs too.

Regarding dinan CF intake, someone else on this thread tried and indeed it doesn?t fit.
I opted for a simple drop in filter replacement, which isn?t too expensive but does the job.

[Steve_Jr]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Hi

Some news on that front:
I've ordered both a molded (plastic/polymer black piece) and a 3d printed part (white plastic prototype, 6 EUR for one piece)

The black pastic one broke quickly when trying to fit over my stock dampers.

The white 3d printed one held up but i suspect is a bit too thick, so the metal final version wouldn't be so compliant.

However the great news is the knocking sound is gone, and seems now solid.
Photos of before/after strut hats you can see the white plastic bit under the nut.

i'll make a revised 3d model with slightly thinner walls and perhaps risk ordering in metal directly - stainless steel at 35 EUR a piece when ordering 2, or hesitating with titanium at 41 EUR a piece isn't much more expensive and could be a bit more solid too. Thoughts on that?

It's definitely better than just washer ... the washer was maded by custome order to mechanic who has no background information .. (no time to decribe T.T ) Originally yours it is ~ !

[kabrichx]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Regarding dinan CF intake, someone else on this thread tried and indeed it doesn?t fit.
I opted for a simple drop in filter replacement, which isn?t too expensive but does the job.

I had *thought* it was a BMS Air Intake that did not work, but did not go back through thread.

Even though AFE works for some, it certainly does not look like it will on a F30 335i.

Oh well.

[Lancelot]

Got these two 3D printed parts today:

Good thing:
- they fit the KW dampers; they would require a bit of trimming to fit OEM dampers.
- knocking noise is gone

Could be improved: they don't take up all the space in the M3 strut hat hole, so i'm going to make a V2.0 with thicker walls.

Could anyone make a very precise measure of the M3 strut hat hole? I don't have the right tools to do that unfortunately

I went for 15mm but it's actually more than that.

[zipphreak]

So I finally got my F22 (M235i) ground control camber plates fitted with the M4 mounting studs. Its basically an F2x, F3x, M3/M4 universal plate that they retrofit to fit certain models. Now I get to install them, and then install the final touch. The giant aluminum strut brace!

[Lancelot]

Nice

Keep us posted - Seems like a sturdy option, just curious as to what the noise/vibration will be, as the OEM hats have a rubber layer to dampen some of that road noise.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

Hello. There are 4 stages if you want to install M4 carbon strut brace on F32 4 series.

Stage 1 M4 Support bearing reinforcement ring
Stage 2 M4 Alloy center strut brace + M4 support bearing
Stage 3 M4 Carbon (CFRP) strut front end
Stage 4 M4 Extension suspension cross brace + Diagonal strut


Stage 3 M4 Carbon (CFRP) strut front end

CFRP strut front end 1EA : 51618061631
Cross link (only Coupe & Sedan) 1EA : 51647294928
Hex bolt M8 (CFRP - front) 28Nm 2EA : 22326760945
Hex bolt M8 (CFRP inside) 28Nm 6EA : 11287839136


Stage 4 M4 Extension suspension cross brace + Diagonal strut

Extension Strut Tower, Left : 31122284857
Extension Strut Tower, Right : 31122284858
Link, Left : 31122284859
Link, Right : 31122284860
Torx bolt M8 2EA : 07147248303

Whilst I'm a big fan of OE upgrades the full fat m4 CF brace is more eye candy and any upside is more placebo.

An aftermarket strut brace, between the front strut towers, will have more effect for a tenth of the cost.

Why ? - because non M cars don’t have the structural reinforcement panel (part # 51648054327# 20 in the realoem link) that ties the cross link part -photo below - to subframe. CF 'U' section is essentially window dressing.



http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...80#51648054327

Hence, the strut re-inforcement rings and aluminium structure in stages 1 & 2 - between strut towers and the bulkhead as per photo below - is the only ‘functional’ part of this retrofit....

[Lancelot]

Good to have you back around here

You may have a point but i'm not sure this is the whole story here, though i lack data to back it up properly i think the cfrp part adds 20% more stiffness to counteract the lateral compression from the strut towers (i have been running without it for a little while at the beginning)

2nd point the oem alloy strut bar has something more the standard strut bars don't have which is the connection to the outer frame, and to the A-pillar on the f80 at least as no one has managed to retrofit the 2 links to the A-pillar properly on the f20/f30.

This retrofit however has other inconveniences:
- the strut hat hole is designed for bigger daper rod diameter on the f80 than on the f30 leading to - at best - uncertain geometry and ended up moving in my case while driving - like having a loose camber plate if you wish.

- the connection to the outer frame with the blind rivet has become loose in my case resulting in noise, and i'm not sure i can get it tight ever again (destroyed rivet threading)

- the pre-07/2013 brake lines design is incompatible with the alloy strut bar design as evidenced by Kabrich's issues in this thread

So while this retrofit is a very interesting one, it has its difficulties, and you should be warned. I am pondering going back to a regular strut brace now.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Good to have you back around here

You may have a point but i'm not sure this is the whole story here, though i lack data to back it up properly i think the cfrp part adds 20% more stiffness to counteract the lateral compression from the strut towers (i have been running without it for a little while at the beginning)

2nd point the oem alloy strut bar has something more the standard strut bars don't have which is the connection to the outer frame, and to the A-pillar on the f80 at least as no one has managed to retrofit the 2 links to the A-pillar properly on the f20/f30.

This retrofit however has other inconveniences:
- the strut hat hole is designed for bigger daper rod diameter on the f80 than on the f30 leading to - at best - uncertain geometry and ended up moving in my case while driving - like having a loose camber plate if you wish.

- the connection to the outer frame with the blind rivet has become loose in my case resulting in noise, and i'm not sure i can get it tight ever again (destroyed rivet threading)

- the pre-07/2013 brake lines design is incompatible with the alloy strut bar design as evidenced by Kabrich's issues in this thread

So while this retrofit is a very interesting one, it has its difficulties, and you should be warned. I am pondering going back to a regular strut brace now.

Thanks - never too far away !

Checking on Realoem undermines my point technically as according to the parts holy grail - M235iRacing use full fat M4 alloy/CF bracing - without the front reinforcement panel - making do with standard 2 leg front brace as m235iR's front subframe is same as regular M235i, F2x and F3x 6cyl cars....

Fact remains tho, its pricey compared to a cheaper and arguably more effective simple brace between the strut tower tops...

[Lancelot]

Pricey it is... what drove me to this was the "fun factor" of doing something out of the beaten tracks

[BMW DIY Guy]

As I read all of the issues with stage 2, would it be worth it to do stage 1 stand alone? I built out wish lists on each stage, but obviously there are a ton of concerns around the upper strut mounts?

[Lancelot]

That would not get you very far though as it’s only the reinforcement rings?

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

That would not get you very far though as it’s only the reinforcement rings?

I agree as it sounds like stage 2 has issues? Really like this idea and adding more things to my build out, but wondering if this is worth it?

[Lancelot]

Knowing what i now know, i'd avoid the trouble and stick to a classical strut bar, inexpensive and hassle free

I'll go to my usual shop next friday, we'll decide if my diameter adapters can fit without risk and either keep this retrofit with these adapters or revert to original strut hats with a classical strut bar.

To be noted too, the f80 strut hats are noticeably sturdier than f30, doesn't show well in the pictures here but to me they seem to be able to withstand much more abuse (to be expected for a half track car like the m3), which is another benefit of this retrofit, despite aforementioned drawbacks.

[zipphreak]

Here's an update, i finally got around to install the GC camber plates retrofitted with the M4 studs. And the strut brace is now installed!

[Lancelot]

Nice!!!
Got a chance to drive around? How is it like?

[Lancelot]

I notice you attached the two pairs of connecting rods to the alloy strut brace, did you manage to attach them to the A pillar in some satisfactory way?

Thanks!

[zipphreak]

I have not driven it yet, i've got one last thing i need to do.

I got the two brackets they attach to from the M4, and i plan on drilling a small hole for a rivnut. And then using betalink K1 to further secure the bracket. The way it is now, there is no play, or slop behind it, so i'm just going to rivnut and betalink should be good to go.

These are the brackets for those wondering:
Bracket, front brace, left 41008063221
Bracket, front brace, right 41008063222

[zipphreak]

Quick update, looks like those brackets won't work after all, it increases the height so that the extension rod actually interferes with closing of the hood. So i removed them, lined everything up without the brackets, marked the center of the hole in the extension rod. Drilled progressively larger holes for a 10mm rivnut. Problem solved. Now bolted straight to the body, and no hood interference. The brackets just raised them up too high that as the hood closes it would press onto the extension rod bracket.

[PENELOPE12]

Looking for info on why my DSC light is lite on dashboard :/ Im taking to dealer tomorrow, but just want to know what could it be? The Break lite is on to 2006 Z4

[zipphreak]

Anyone have a carbon fiber strut brace they want to sell ?