[BMWILUVU]

The F30 chassis already has a strutbar. It attaches the strut tower to the firewall.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

The F30 chassis already has a strutbar. It attaches the strut tower to the firewall.

The stock bar is not totally effective since it doesn't connect point to point between the strut towers. Adding a strut brace provides a noticeable difference.

[auburnf30x]

^ It does. The improvement in steering feel alone makes it worthwhile, to the point where I’m not sure why they didn’t put one there to begin with.

Follow up from my post on the last page, I fixed my rattling issue. A combination of smoothing the cover’s bezel slightly, adjusting the bar upward a tad (not much to work with), and putting a small patch of padding on the underside of the bar took care of it. The ECU cover will require more substantial modification.

Again, I wouldn’t expect a track transformation out of it, but it really does seem to make a positive difference in the overall experience.

[CajunBMW]

Originally Posted by johnung

The stock bar is not totally effective since it doesn't connect point to point between the strut towers. Adding a strut brace provides a noticeable difference.

Did end up going with the wiechers brace that you mentioned on the previous page? Do you still like it? How hard is it for some one competent with tools but has not done this before, to put on? Seems straight forward but with some very specific instructions that have to be followed to do it right and safely.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by CajunBMW

Did end up going with the wiechers brace that you mentioned on the previous page? Do you still like it? How hard is it for some one competent with tools but has not done this before, to put on? Seems straight forward but with some very specific instructions that have to be followed to do it right and safely.

All you need is a torque wrench and the correct socket. Watch the kies video on it.

[shjung0916]

i use autotechnic fornt brace

but i don`t know it is good for my f30

because of H&R stabillizer

[CajunBMW]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

All you need is a torque wrench and the correct socket. Watch the kies video on it.

Thanks so much.

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by johnung

The stock bar is not totally effective since it doesn't connect point to point between the strut towers. Adding a strut brace provides a noticeable difference.

Its pretty effective since it pins the towers against the mid-point of the firewall and forms a triangle truss but adding a strutbar across the towers would be better than nothing. I have a strutbar and the changes afterwards were in all likelihood subjective and all in my head. Objective testing on F30 tower deflection on a racetrack showed that on world-class racetracks on the worst turns at extreme high speeds, the deflection is almost nil.

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Its pretty effective since it pins the towers against the mid-point of the firewall and forms a triangle truss but adding a strutbar across the towers would be better than nothing. I have a strutbar and the changes afterwards were in all likelihood subjective and all in my head. Objective testing on F30 tower deflection on a racetrack showed that on world-class racetracks on the worst turns at extreme high speeds, the deflection is almost nil.

I agree for the most part, I don't really think it does anything at all to improve track performance or even the way the car handles in turns.

The 'wobble' reduction in going up short inclines at an angle I really do feel has been reduced also, but that could be a placebo effect.

The biggest change to me is the steering feedback...I do believe there's absolutely been a change there. The wheel used to feel dead over all but the largest imperfections, now I can actually feel the pavement.

[Billfitz]

If you do a force vector analysis it's clear that the OEM bar isn't as effective as one that goes directly across the engine. I'd be inclined to say that it's still adequate for the average driver. If it wasn't I don't see BMW not going that route just to make the engine cover easier to remove. For track use, I don't know, what does BMW use in their racing M3/M4?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If you do a force vector analysis it's clear that the OEM bar isn't as effective as one that goes directly across the engine. I'd be inclined to say that it's still adequate for the average driver. If it wasn't I don't see BMW not going that route just to make the engine cover easier to remove. For track use, I don't know, what does BMW use in their racing M3/M4?

Well, the F80 M3 adds the carbon fiber "U" shaped one. So they must have thought the firewall one was not enough on its own, unless that's just not there on the F80, and the carbon fiber one is a substitute not a supplement? Not entirely sure.

[Logicoeur]

The oe bar is 2 sides of a triangle. The strut bar completes that triangle. Elementary physics indicates a triangle is much more sturdy than a V With an open end. That's why the F8x strut brace connects the front towers to the nose of the car. Another triangle.

Also as said above the F3x definitely creaks and bends when going over certain inclines at an angle. All of that goes away with the addition of the bar. Pretty simple test that is.

[BMWILUVU]

Bimmerworld:
http://news.bimmerworld.com/is-a-strut-brace-worth-it/
Done at Lime Rock and VIR. No way cornering forces like this experienced on the streets (safely). I track and I bought the bar early so I have it installed.
This was also an e-series where the f-series has an even more rigid chassis and strutbars to the firewall as well as support improvement near the frontal areas of the chassis.

[Logicoeur]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Bimmerworld:
http://news.bimmerworld.com/is-a-strut-brace-worth-it/
Done at Lime Rock and VIR. No way cornering forces like this experienced on the streets (safely). I track and I bought the bar early so I have it installed.
This was also an e-series where the f-series has an even more rigid chassis and strutbars to the firewall as well as support improvement near the frontal areas of the chassis.

No one said a strut bar is necessary for the street. You don't need to put the car through an HPDE to feel the benefits of a strut bar either, as seen by numerous dozens of posts here.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Bimmerworld:
http://news.bimmerworld.com/is-a-strut-brace-worth-it/
Done at Lime Rock and VIR. No way cornering forces like this experienced on the streets (safely). I track and I bought the bar early so I have it installed.
This was also an e-series where the f-series has an even more rigid chassis and strutbars to the firewall as well as support improvement near the frontal areas of the chassis.

Ok... Personally I like the way the car FEELS better with the strut bar. I personally am not going to go making any claims that it increases the lateral Gs the car can take or anything. It just feels tighter and more direct, which is 100% worth it for a couple hundred dollars.

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by Logicoeur

No one said a strut bar is necessary for the street. You don't need to put the car through an HPDE to feel the benefits of a strut bar either, as seen by numerous dozens of posts here.

After I installed, I felt the same. I think its all in our heads. Like a placebo, if it makes you feel good then thats important too.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by CajunBMW

Did end up going with the wiechers brace that you mentioned on the previous page? Do you still like it? How hard is it for some one competent with tools but has not done this before, to put on? Seems straight forward but with some very specific instructions that have to be followed to do it right and safely.

It's very simple to install.

[CajunBMW]

Originally Posted by johnung

It's very simple to install.

Thank you. It does look easy. I have everything to do the work. I will have to borrow a torque wretch from my neighbor (I see the setting is 30 NM). I like the strut brace shown in the video and that is the one I want to get. I think it is the one you noted above. I was thinking the aluminum one is the best value for the buck, although as I was looking on the website the CF one looks nice.

I have two minor questions.

First, it seems like the bolts are one and done. To do it right l, it seems like I should purchase the 6 bolts new (I have an LCI). Is that correct)?

Second, is it easier to attach the brackets to the strut towers first and get them both torqued down correctly and then attach the brace itself to the two brackets. In essence act as if I were working on the car and needed to remove the cross brace?

I just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks again for your help.

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by CajunBMW

I have two minor questions.

First, it seems like the bolts are one and done. To do it right l, it seems like I should purchase the 6 bolts new (I have an LCI). Is that correct)?

Second, is it easier to attach the brackets to the strut towers first and get them both torqued down correctly and then attach the brace itself to the two brackets. In essence act as if I were working on the car and needed to remove the cross brace?

I just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks again for your help.

Regarding your borrowed torque wrench...unless your neighbor does have one in nm, you'll want to use these torque values...

Some cars have M8 strut bolts and some have M10. The threaded part of the M8 is narrower at 8mm/0.32" vs. the M10 at 10mm/0.40" so make sure you measure your bolts...

Torque values are 30 nm/22 ft-lbs for the M8 and 56 nm/41 ft-lbs for the M10. Once you hit that torque setting, tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees (or one quarter turn) ONLY if using new bolts. That part is the same whether they are M8 or M10. If reusing old bolts, only tighten to the specified torque value.

1. Yes, the bolts are supposed to be replaced if they are removed. Most people don't though, and they hold up fine if you are just removing and replacing them the one time. I wouldn't do it more than that without new ones.

2. It doesn't matter, I left the brackets attached to the bar and got the bolts lined up and threaded on both sides before tightening down to spec. Leave the bolts mounting the bar to the brackets loose while you're doing that, of course.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by CajunBMW

Thank you. It does look easy. I have everything to do the work. I will have to borrow a torque wretch from my neighbor (I see the setting is 30 NM). I like the strut brace shown in the video and that is the one I want to get. I think it is the one you noted above. I was thinking the aluminum one is the best value for the buck, although as I was looking on the website the CF one looks nice.

I have two minor questions.

First, it seems like the bolts are one and done. To do it right l, it seems like I should purchase the 6 bolts new (I have an LCI). Is that correct)?

Second, is it easier to attach the brackets to the strut towers first and get them both torqued down correctly and then attach the brace itself to the two brackets. In essence act as if I were working on the car and needed to remove the cross brace?

I just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks again for your help.

I would highly recommend reading my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=233

I discuss some of the specifics of installing the bar if you get one with a threaded center section so that you can adjust preload/length (which i think is the one you are referring to, product linked in my post). This is a critical step IMO if your bar is adjustable otherwise you may be installing it "loose" or with slop. I also talk about minor adjustments to the wiring harness loom so that it doesnt rub. Let me know if you have questions after reading there.

If your bar length is not adjustable, then you can't really install it wrong, you just bolt it in.

I used new bolts, but many do not.

[CajunBMW]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I would highly recommend reading my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...;postcount=233

I discuss some of the specifics of installing the bar if you get one with a threaded center section so that you can adjust preload/length (which i think is the one you are referring to, product linked in my post). This is a critical step IMO if your bar is adjustable otherwise you may be installing it "loose" or with slop. I also talk about minor adjustments to the wiring harness loom so that it doesnt rub. Let me know if you have questions after reading there.

If your bar length is not adjustable, then you can't really install it wrong, you just bolt it in.

I used new bolts, but many do not.

Thanks. That was super helpful. I think we may have different cars as my air filter is on the left (if facing the engine with the hood open), but if I understand correctly that should not influence too much or much at all for the install. In looking at my car this weekend, I see the wire issue on the left that runs along the strut tower that you discuss. On the right there is a covered box, will the brace hit that covered box? From your help and the help from the rest of the forum members, it seems like I should be able to easily do this mod.

Thanks again for your help.

[CajunBMW]

Originally Posted by auburnf30x

Regarding your borrowed torque wrench...unless your neighbor does have one in nm, you'll want to use these torque values...

Some cars have M8 strut bolts and some have M10. The threaded part of the M8 is narrower at 8mm/0.32" vs. the M10 at 10mm/0.40" so make sure you measure your bolts...

Torque values are 30 nm/22 ft-lbs for the M8 and 56 nm/41 ft-lbs for the M10. Once you hit that torque setting, tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees (or one quarter turn) ONLY if using new bolts. That part is the same whether they are M8 or M10. If reusing old bolts, only tighten to the specified torque value.

1. Yes, the bolts are supposed to be replaced if they are removed. Most people don't though, and they hold up fine if you are just removing and replacing them the one time. I wouldn't do it more than that without new ones.

2. It doesn't matter, I left the brackets attached to the bar and got the bolts lined up and threaded on both sides before tightening down to spec. Leave the bolts mounting the bar to the brackets loose while you're doing that, of course.

Thanks for the help. That is definitely good to know about the bolts. Also thanks for the ft/bs conversion. I think my neighbor has both. He seems to have every tool. If I go to the dealer and get the six bolts for the install, I am guessing they will tell me if they are the M8 or M10 bolts, is that correct? Will all the helpful info, I should be able to easily do this mod and most importantly, do it right.

Thanks again.