[Racing Teatray]

Got my car back today - was all covered under the Extended Warranty.

The notes on the invoice for the work state:

"Investigated noise from steering area at low speeds, carried out functional test of system, heard noise from steering area. Checked and found lower column causing noise. Checked and found lower bush/damper faulty. Removed and replaced bush/damper on upper rack. Retested for noise, all ok."

[Cruez]

My car is getting it done atm. My mechanic hands the job out to a company to fit and remeasure the steering rack before mounting everything back.

[Sasquartch]

Originally Posted by Cruez

My car is getting it done atm. My mechanic hands the job out to a company to fit and remeasure the steering rack before mounting everything back.

I think getting the mod done on the bench in a clean environment and correct tools is definitely preferable to doing it on the car.
I don't think the rack is particularly difficult to remove
I'd probably replace the track rod ends as a matter of course whilst I was at it.

[Cruez]

Originally Posted by Sasquartch

I think getting the mod done on the bench in a clean environment and correct tools is definitely preferable to doing it on the car.
I don't think the rack is particularly difficult to remove
I'd probably replace the track rod ends as a matter of course whilst I was at it.

Indeed, here 's a link to the repair instructions https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1Vnc3X9PQZ

Glad i did not do this myself.

[exE36M3]

After chasing a rattle from what I thought were camber plates, the sound followed going back to the stock strut hats/mounts. I thought it was a bad spring seating, got new rubber seats too. Then I thought my EDC shocks were going bad or my suspension was not all torqued down. This is ON TOP of the speed bump or bad road clunks I've had since I've owned the car. The steering wheel would make knocking sounds on turns.

With this fix, it's like OMG. Totally quiet. New car feel. I've taken about a dozen small test drives over to the local school with speed bumps just trying to make it clunk or rattle. NOTHING. Just dull thuds... like it should be... I'm SO USED to the rattles and clunks, they are ALL gone now. I still hear them *in my head* because I'm SO used to the noise... it's weird now that all is quiet.

So before you all keep chasing maybe this or that... for US$50 in parts and 2 hours... it's a KNOWN issue that is worth fixing yourself versus dealing with the dealer. It's amazing what a fix this is!

- - -
SO WHAT'S INVOLVED?

It's a 2 hour job to fix. No need to remove the entire rack or a wheel!
Just did this Saturday AM in my garage.

1. Jack car up
2. Remove under tray... nearly 20-8mm screw bolts.
3. Remove 2nd tray - looks like power invertor for the electric steer
4. Use special ebay tool - 3 prong, sells for about US$45
5. Use 24mm wrench to remove tri-cap ... socket with bar won't fit so use a wrench.
6. Cap removed, use pliers to pull out old rack block-thing

7. Take new block... grease up like crazy
8. Drop new block into place. The "canyon" runs left/right (not forward/back) of the car.
- note when you drop it in, it will only drop half way. I used a 1.5 foot bar to gently push it down... it's fiddly because it's a tight space plus there's TWO gaskets versus none now.

9. Once the block drop in... grease up the spring and place it in the cap. Keep the "air hole" clear though.
10. Use one hand to push down on the cap and the other hand to thread/scerew the new cap in. You are fighting with the tension of the spring a bit so take your time.

10. Tighten cap to so it's about flush with the surface of the rack.

11. The little bullet plug, put a light coat of grease on it and install using a small allen key. It won't tear don't worry.

12. Once done... lower car... turn on motor... but DON'T drive it yet (unless you put back ALL the underpanels). Feel the steering... pull left and right. If it resists A LOT and doesn't go back to center... go under car and back off the 3-hole cap by 1/8 turn (like 6 o'clock to 4:30) and try again.

- The steering should be somewhat resistant... like a new car would feel.

[therealm3]

@exE36M3 , great write up. I am hoping this is the issue with my car and I can do the repair one of these weekends.

Question for those that have done it, did any of you have the variable sport steering that comes with the track handling package? I checked real oem and looked around on the board but I can't find the answer if the rack uses the same tools and repair kit. This is what realoem says:

The repair kit is only logical for
Thyssen steering systems (High and
Sport).

I assume the "Sport" refers to the steering I have, but not sure.

Anyone know?

[Momir13]

Originally Posted by therealm3

@exE36M3 , great write up. I am hoping this is the issue with my car and I can do the repair one of these weekends.

Question for those that have done it, did any of you have the variable sport steering that comes with the track handling package? I checked real oem and looked around on the board but I can't find the answer if the rack uses the same tools and repair kit. This is what realoem says:

The repair kit is only logical for
Thyssen steering systems (High and
Sport).

I assume the "Sport" refers to the steering I have, but not sure.

Anyone know?

The repair kit is only for vss pretty sure. The bearing that wears is the main tightening point for the vss.

The og bearing is plastic and wears which is the rattling sound you hear.

Mine is going in on Monday to get fixed 😁😁😁

[therealm3]

Well I picked up the steering rack tool from @exE36m3 and today I went under the car to check out my rack and see if tightening the cover would improve my noise. It totally did! Now I will order the kit and do the repair. So, for those of you chasing random front end suspension rattles, check your steering rack. I tightened it about 1/16 of a turn and it took out all the rattle/knocking I was getting over bumps with the wheel at different angles.

[Jacket2122]

Hi all,

Quick question regarding this knocking when ignition off, My 2012 f30 320d does this.

Its fine whilst driving normally with no issues or noise, would this be an mot failure?

Thanks in advance

[Pbdeed]

how much this should be tighten?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Cruez

My car is getting it done atm. My mechanic hands the job out to a company to fit and remeasure the steering rack before mounting everything back.

Were you able to replace the thrust bearing on this steering rack? Yours looks like a ZF unit and not a ThyssenKrupp steering rack.

Based on my research, the thrust bearing repair kit is for the ThyssenKrupp (Variable Sport Steering) steering rack?

This is what my original thrust bearing looks like.

[Cruez]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Were you able to replace the thrust bearing on this steering rack? Yours looks like a ZF unit and not a ThyssenKrupp steering rack.

Based on my research, the thrust bearing repair kit is for the ThyssenKrupp (Variable Sport Steering) steering rack?

This is what my original thrust bearing looks like.

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Were you able to replace the thrust bearing on this steering rack? Yours looks like a ZF unit and not a ThyssenKrupp steering rack.

Based on my research, the thrust bearing repair kit is for the ThyssenKrupp (Variable Sport Steering) steering rack?

This is what my original thrust bearing looks like.

Hi the garage did it for me so i dont know. Sorry. After one year, still good 🤞🤞🤞😅

[nediam]

Hello.
After a summer of horrendous clonking noises, the BMW garage diagnosed my steering rack as the culprit. The strange thing is, it only happens when it is hot outside and/or after driving and then stopping the car. The mechanic said it heats up from the exhaust pipe that runs over it, or something like that.
Is it repairable or must it be changed as a whole?
Thanks

[b16jsy]

I have just had this done today. And it has completely transformed the car for me. I honestly thought I would also need a new bottom arm or similar, but the new updated steering rack bush has eliminated all vagueness, rattles and knocks - it drives like new again.

For anyone up in the North East, I got mine done by Plough Motors - BMW Specialist in East Boldon (near Sunderland). Parts and Labour PLUS an MOT came to £115.00. So without the MOT I would imagine around £75.00 or so - bargain in my eyes, and saves on buying the special tool, parts and lying on the driveway!

Cheers
Joe

[Eddamoo]

I tightened mine up over 18 months ago (only by around 2-3mm on the circumference) and it fixed mine and felt far better to drive. It doesn't appear to have worsened since and the knocking hasn't returned. Just FYI if people want to have a crack themselves.

[capt_slow]

Is there any way to get a dealer to install the repair kit under warranty? I just raised this problem (and the solution) to the dealer and they said the knock was normal because it was present on two other similar cars.

[jeffijaffa]

Originally Posted by DriveS

Update.....

I the pin spanner does not turn the plate. Just bends and slips out of the 2 holes. Too much torque is required.

So I am going to order the £50 special tool and try again at the weekend.

I have a steering tool you can use if your in the uk
I've done mine recently

[Taheemr]

have this issue on the wifes 2014 435d, complained about it many times to BMW, they responded with no fault found, just put down to the 3/4 series being an utter bag of shite in my view thats overpriced / hyped

[J555]

Just got this issue repaired, so probably worth sharing some experiences.

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Based on my research, the thrust bearing repair kit is for the ThyssenKrupp (Variable Sport Steering) steering rack?

My rack is Servotronic (not VSS), and the repair kit is suitable for it.

Originally Posted by b16jsy

I have just had this done today. And it has completely transformed the car for me. I honestly thought I would also need a new bottom arm or similar, but the new updated steering rack bush has eliminated all vagueness, rattles and knocks - it drives like new again.

For anyone up in the North East, I got mine done by Plough Motors - BMW Specialist in East Boldon (near Sunderland). Parts and Labour PLUS an MOT came to £115.00. So without the MOT I would imagine around £75.00 or so - bargain in my eyes, and saves on buying the special tool, parts and lying on the driveway!

Cheers
Joe

After discussing the details with BMW AD service guy, I absolutely second that. While I see many guys doing the job by themselves, tightening the kit based on estimated torque or to the same position as before, this ain't correct. The dedicated (!) servicing tool is not just a torque tool, but also a digital laser angle and pressure calibration. The tool itself costs $1400, and the procedure is pretty complex (the instructions are approx. 20 A4 sheets, plus instructional videos). Typically takes 1-2 hours (as it requires disconnecting the tie rods, calibrating, fixing the tie rods back again, re-measure, and repeating if it is not dead centered). Agree the steering is even better than new, actually - it's beefy, with stronger progression in high speeds, and an exactly defined center, with absolutely no play.

To my surprise, BMW AD here charged me just $100 all-in.

[SonicJ]

Originally Posted by J555

Just got this issue repaired, so probably worth sharing some experiences.


My rack is Servotronic (not VSS), and the repair kit is suitable for it.


After discussing the details with BMW AD service guy, I absolutely second that. While I see many guys doing the job by themselves, tightening the kit based on estimated torque or to the same position as before, this ain't correct. The dedicated (!) servicing tool is not just a torque tool, but also a digital laser angle and pressure calibration. The tool itself costs $1400, and the procedure is pretty complex (the instructions are approx. 20 A4 sheets, plus instructional videos). Typically takes 1-2 hours (as it requires disconnecting the tie rods, calibrating, fixing the tie rods back again, re-measure, and repeating if it is not dead centered). Agree the steering is even better than new, actually - it's beefy, with stronger progression in high speeds, and an exactly defined center, with absolutely no play.

To my surprise, BMW AD here charged me just $100 all-in.

Better steering you say? my Sept. 2018 GC has a really annoying way of steering on higher speeds(say 40 to 60 mph/ 60-100 kmh). i feel like i have to pull the steering over a ridge/notch before the steering assist is engaging(only a few degrees from center, so on gentle curvy roads)) it feels very loose but its steering sharp and corresponding to my non-effort inputs tho.

Also its not comming back to full center, like it is catching after a few degrees of steering and with a little more force it kind of snaps back to straight when turning from gently cornering to straight. it is steering really sharp tho and drivers straight but on small corrections it does not drive ''linear'' and feels a like way less steering force with the xtra notch i feel. its not clunking whatsoever but maybe this new part could elimate what i experience?
how did it feel for you?

greetings J.

[J555]

Originally Posted by SonicJ

Better steering you say? my Sept. 2018 GC has a really annoying way of steering on higher speeds(say 40 to 60 mph/ 60-100 kmh). i feel like i have to pull the steering over a ridge/notch before the steering assist is engaging(only a few degrees from center, so on gentle curvy roads)) it feels very loose but its steering sharp and corresponding to my non-effort inputs tho.

Also its not comming back to full center, like it is catching after a few degrees of steering and with a little more force it kind of snaps back to straight when turning from gently cornering to straight. it is steering really sharp tho and drivers straight but on small corrections it does not drive ''linear'' and feels a like way less steering force with the xtra notch i feel. its not clunking whatsoever but maybe this new part could elimate what i experience?
how did it feel for you?

greetings J.

Not an expert, but these symptoms don't sound like something that can be solved by the thrust steering repair kit. I would recommend getting the car checked by your garage, and also checking with BMW, if you are not eligible for a steering rack replacement recall (as they were many cars affected, but guess they would have let you know).

[rlesko]

I was quoted 3 hours labor by my local dealership for this. Really not sure if I should DIY without all the meticulous measurements or if I should pay out the ass for a “properly” measured install. Rate us 199 an hour.