[danb1979]

Originally Posted by sensible

I notice that the Ah and A on the new battery are slightly different to the original. Did Bimmerlik work okay, as I thought it could only register like for like.

Bimmerlink will register, you need Bimmercode if you want to fit a different spec battery

I registered my Exide battery with Bimmerlink even though it's 95Ah, the original one was 90; there is no 95Ah available, so go with 90 over 105Ah etc

[danb1979]

Also realised my battery was made by 'Banner' rather than the likes of Varta or Exide... Never heard of Banner!

Banner here on Tanya; not cheap

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/banner/59201/

[chrismuk]

Mine is currently back at the dealer i purchased it from to get them to have a look at the battery. start stop in operative for the first few miles of driving every time, battery voltage sits around 12.2v as well. Even after 2-3days of charging it has dropped back down.

[TurboWeasel]

Originally Posted by chrismuk

Mine is currently back at the dealer i purchased it from to get them to have a look at the battery. start stop in operative for the first few miles of driving every time, battery voltage sits around 12.2v as well. Even after 2-3days of charging it has dropped back down.

The aftermarket battery I bought in March has dropped to 86% battery health in Bimmerlink already It also sits at 12.2V, although I don't know if the car was fully asleep when I checked it as the boot was open, obviously.

I'm sure it was 12.6V under the same conditions when new, and it was colder than it is now. Was thinking of sacking it off and getting a genuine one, but I don't think I'll bother now in light of your experience!

Got any symptoms like slow cranking, slow wipers after it starts, momentary loss of steering assistance after it fires up, dim witted gear shifts in comfort mode for a few miles after start up, etc?

My only suspicion at this stage is ground strap integrity or alternator unhappiness because I can't believe a 6 month old battery is dying already. Start stop is defaulted to off.

I've driven through flood water several times this past fortnight, which funnily enough is when I started noticing this. I know there is a chuffing great belly liner under there, but even so, it's been mighty soggy of late!

[chrismuk]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

The aftermarket battery I bought in March has dropped to 86% battery health in Bimmerlink already It also sits at 12.2V, although I don't know if the car was fully asleep when I checked it as the boot was open, obviously.

I'm sure it was 12.6V under the same conditions when new, and it was colder than it is now. Was thinking of sacking it off and getting a genuine one, but I don't think I'll bother now in light of your experience!

Got any symptoms like slow cranking, slow wipers after it starts, momentary loss of steering assistance after it fires up, dim witted gear shifts in comfort mode for a few miles after start up, etc?

My only suspicion at this stage is ground strap integrity or alternator unhappiness because I can't believe a 6 month old battery is dying already. Start stop is defaulted to off.

I've driven through flood water several times this past fortnight, which funnily enough is when I started noticing this. I know there is a chuffing great belly liner under there, but even so, it's been mighty soggy of late!

Yeah my Start Stop doesn't work properly when i first set off and only works after a few miles of driving. Also if it does work then it starts is self back up without me doing anything, i'm guessing because the voltage drops below a certain threshold making the car restart.

[Allworth]

Originally Posted by chrismuk

Yeah my Start Stop doesn't work properly when i first set off and only works after a few miles of driving. Also if it does work then it starts is self back up without me doing anything, i'm guessing because the voltage drops below a certain threshold making the car restart.

Until car gets warm start/stop is suspended

[chrismuk]

Originally Posted by Allworth

Until car gets warm start/stop is suspended

At that’s interesting. Makes sense I suppose. They’ve agreed to change my battery anyway now.

[davethefish]

Originally Posted by sensible

I notice that the Ah and A on the new battery are slightly different to the original. Did Bimmerlik work okay, as I thought it could only register like for like.

As has been said, just register it like for like in the app.
the 5Ah extra makes no difference in the software.
that was what was reccomended to me.

[Raven335X]

Glad this thread come up as my F31 2017 335D seems to slow start on cold and got a message on the BMW app about my battery but nothing in the car. Previous owner used start stop most of the time but i have it now coded off by default now.

Plan to change the battery, waiting on a BF discount on Bimmercode/Link

Replacement Batteries looking at the https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a13/ or OPs https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a5/

I presume they are both very similar.

Plan would be to use Bimmercode to make sure battery type was set to 90 Ah AGM then then Bimmerlink to register Replacement battery.

Also believe the Touring's ( Estates ) are little bit more involved to get to the battery. 11 Years on the Same battery is

[MarsKy]

I changed my 2016 F31 335Ds last December. YouTube video shows how to get into it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVs0T9twgkY&t=1s

Hardest part is getting the battery clamp back on - you need small hands or elastoplast for skint fingers.
This video shows the clamp better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Y4U7XN66mQ


And 2024-2017 = 7 year old battery?

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by Raven335X

Glad this thread come up as my F31 2017 335D seems to slow start on cold and got a message on the BMW app about my battery but nothing in the car. Previous owner used start stop most of the time but i have it now coded off by default now.

Plan to change the battery, waiting on a BF discount on Bimmercode/Link

Replacement Batteries looking at the https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a13/ or OPs https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a5/

I presume they are both very similar.

Plan would be to use Bimmercode to make sure battery type was set to 90 Ah AGM then then Bimmerlink to register Replacement battery.

Also believe the Touring's ( Estates ) are little bit more involved to get to the battery. 11 Years on the Same battery is

This is all you need (exactly what I fitted to our F31):

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ek960/

Yes; it's down in the depths of the cubby in the boot; so remove the trim to get to the battery and use a few long extensions to undo the clamp; reverse repeat when refitting the battery

And then just register it to the car

[sl13]

This is a timely thread - I've literally just today changed my original battery for a varta from Tanya !

It was a pig to get the bottom clamp off and on with my ham hands.

My issue is : registered it and did a battery check (old one was at 83% - pretty good for 10 years old) and initially it read 99%. I've just been on a 50min blast on the dual carriageway and it's reading 76% (all on bimmerlink).

It cranks ok, in fact better than old one which is why I changed it, but I don't understand how it's dropped already.

Before I do away with the packaging the battery came in, should I be trickle charging it or something? I can't think how a new battery would need it but maybe i am missing something?!

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by sl13

This is a timely thread - I've literally just today changed my original battery for a varta from Tanya !

It was a pig to get the bottom clamp off and on with my ham hands.

My issue is : registered it and did a battery check (old one was at 83% - pretty good for 10 years old) and initially it read 99%. I've just been on a 50min blast on the dual carriageway and it's reading 76% (all on bimmerlink).

It cranks ok, in fact better than old one which is why I changed it, but I don't understand how it's dropped already.

Before I do away with the packaging the battery came in, should I be trickle charging it or something? I can't think how a new battery would need it but maybe i am missing something?!

Yes; I always trickle charge the new battery for at least 24 hours before I fit it to the car

You don't know how they've been stored and with the temps being low recently, it's a good idea

Leave the car on trickle overnight (use the points in the engine bay etc); see how you get on

[sl13]

Originally Posted by danb1979

Yes; I always trickle charge the new battery for at least 24 hours before I fit it to the car

You don't know how they've been stored and with the temps being low recently, it's a good idea

Leave the car on trickle overnight (use the points in the engine bay etc); see how you get on

Thanks for the hint - I've plugged in my trickle charger...

[un1eash]

I wouldn't trust the battery % much, mine is all over the place with a new battery. It reads highest after a drive but next day will be down to 70-80% again.

[sl13]

Well, between the raging flood and power cuts I did manage to keep the car on charge for about 14hours until it said 'full' on smart charger. Got a reading of 98% on bimmerlink.

I don't expect it to stay there and if course I'm expecting it to fluctuate with weather and journey distance etc but I'm satisfied it's charged.

If all else fails, I got the varta for the 5yr warranty so assuming I still have the car in 5 years, I'll be covered!