[Ryanfknt]

2014 ewg 335i Xdrive
130104 VANOS intake: control fault, camshaft stuck
120408 Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow up reaction

i was told "Pull the rear most intake cam cap. If it's scored, you'll need a new cylinder head. The cam is dragging in the journal and oil pressure isnt enough to advanve or retard the cam."

So, i did. i pulled the rear most intake cam cap. it is pretty smooth. there is 1 line on the journal/cap that i can just barely catch my fingernail on.

is this really enough to warrant needing to replace the entire head? is there any other options i can try? can i lightly wet sand it with 2000 grit? IS THIS REALLY THE ISSUE

is this happening because there is too much friction between the cam and the journals? or is it lack of oil pressure due to oil seeping through the imperfections between the cam and the journals? the imperfections are barely there / nonexistent!!

below is some diagnostics ive performed, or skip to the pictures below if you dont care.

-Intake camshaft spread should be 120 and exhaust camshaft spread should be 115.
-Using bimmerlink to log the spreads My camshaft spreads are spot on +-1 degree, for about 5 seconds. Then my intake side increases to 137.9 and stays stuck at that exact number until I reset adaptations.

-with both vanos solenoid harnesses disconnected, both spreads stay right around 115/120 without issues. so the oil pressure provided by the vanos solenoid is throwing something off.

-I replaced both cam sensors, swapped all the sensors back and forth, swapped the solenoids back and forth. Nothing changes; codes do not switch to exaust side
-both vanos solenoids have been cleaned and they click in and out flawlessly when applying 12v and ground to them.

[LA1Z24]

That journal is fine.

[Ryanfknt]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

That journal is fine.

ily

[LA1Z24]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H9O...ew?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pMe...ew?usp=sharing

These 2 articles from identifix are for your code. Very simple diagnosis.

Is the oil filter cap intact? The inner cage is not broken?

[Ryanfknt]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H9O...ew?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pMe...ew?usp=sharing

These 2 articles from identifix are for your code. Very simple diagnosis.

Is the oil filter cap intact? The inner cage is not broken?

Oil filter cap is intact. Both orings are good.
Oil pressure reads about 39psi at idle, 60psi around 4k rpm’s.

I’m currently doing an I-Level software update using ISTA because I found this article https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10053485-8362.pdf
It doesn’t mention the n55 motor but it says with an f30 with this CEL code, updating the software can fix the issue.

[Ryanfknt]

When I did the timing, the vanos adjusters (the top 2 timing chain sprockets) were aftermarket with no signs of EIN and AUS scripture on them.. I am pretty confident that I did not reverse the two upon when I set timing. The car ran fine with these for 30k miles so I really don’t think they would be at fault.

Would a faulty vanos adjuster cause this? Does this part even go bad? Idk if that’s a possibility or if I somehow managed to swap the exhaust and intake vanos sprocket would that cause this? I was really careful to not do that, but with them not having the EIN and AUS scripture on them… idk I guess it could be possible.

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by Ryanfknt

When I did the timing, the vanos adjusters (the top 2 timing chain sprockets) were aftermarket with no signs of EIN and AUS scripture on them.. I am pretty confident that I did not reverse the two upon when I set timing. The car ran fine with these for 30k miles so I really don’t think they would be at fault.

Would a faulty vanos adjuster cause this? Does this part even go bad? Idk if that’s a possibility or if I somehow managed to swap the exhaust and intake vanos sprocket would that cause this? I was really careful to not do that, but with them not having the EIN and AUS scripture on them… idk I guess it could be possible.

Yes they can. This part is considered Mission Critical. An aftermarket part should never be used here.

[Ryanfknt]

Thank you for the input LA

$1200+ for a set of oem vanos adjusters/sprockets.. just to figure out thats not the issue and that I need a new head because of scored cam journals/caps? Ima test out a cheaper route first.
Instead I bought 2 different sets off amazon; $90 for one and $135 for the other.. I’ll choose my favorite and return the other I guess

[Ryanfknt]

Well it turns out I installed the vanos adjusters on the wrong sides. I figured the old ones were junk anyways so I pulled it apart / broke the plastic cover. Turns out they were both oem! The aus/ein scripture etc is written on the plastic covers but it is so hard to see I had to use a specific light at a certain angle to see the writing on it..

So after breaking the cap on the oem vanos adjusters, I guess I am going to install the aftermarket ones lol. They have the scripture written on them so I’ll report back on how they work out 🤦*♂️

[acarpenter86]

Any luck? I’ve got an 0304 (exhaust cam stuck) but my engine runs perfectly smooth.

I might try resetting adaptations and the software update since those are “easy”.

[LA1Z24]

Adaptions are not going to cause the camshaft to stick. That code sets when vanos commands the cam to do something, and the cam does not do it.

Adaptions have nothing to do with this code. Something is broken in the engine. Things can seem to work fine but still be broken. I bet dollars to donuts you have reduced power, increased fuel consumption and emissions.

[acarpenter86]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

Adaptions are not going to cause the camshaft to stick. That code sets when vanos commands the cam to do something, and the cam does not do it.

Adaptions have nothing to do with this code. Something is broken in the engine. Things can seem to work fine but still be broken. I bet dollars to donuts you have reduced power, increased fuel consumption and emissions.

Sure. I understand. Someone else just said they had a persistent Vanos code that went away not just after solenoids but it came back and they had to reset adaptations. I’m sure there is maybe a .5% chance it works but it’s faster than pulling the valve cover again.

Do you (or anyone) happen to know what degrees are normal for the Vanos to be at while running? I’ll have to get my bmw laptop for the actual German word but it’s under DME and you can do a live view. Mine were 8 and 11 degrees which seem high so I’m thinking timing.

[Ryanfknt]

UPDATE:

I had the vanos adjusters / sprockets - reversed. I actually broke the black cap off the oem one like an idiot because i wanted to take it apart and look at it. Then i bought a china set off amazon and installed those. codes were gone but the car was not running right. Then i pulled the valve cover back off and set timing again using the oem sprockets (one without the cap on it - fuck it.) RUNS PERFECT no more codes.

[MariosBMW2024]

I'm running into this same issue. I have a 2013 640i, getting codes 130104 Vanos intake, camshaft stuck as well as 12408 Charging Pressure control, switch off as consequential reaction.

Reading through the post, I saw there were a few tips. I checked the vanos solenoid and it's in good shape. Tested it with a multimeter, and also a 12v battery, and it seems to be in good shape. The oil filter cap seems to be in good shape as well. No issues there.
I did an adaptation to see of that'll work. But to no avail.

I recently changed the camshaft sensor itself as that was throwing codes. I did this prior to getting the codes I mentioned. Could that be the issue?
The camshaft itself is scored and was rusted due to very very poor maintenance. ( previous owner idea of a joke) i noticed the cam was in poor condition when I replaced the valve cover gasket.
I used a 2000 grit sand paper and some wd40 to sand it down a bit. I'm thinking now that may have caused more issues.
Is my next step to replace the camshaft? If so what's the procedure and how to I get the timing done correctly?

[iverson03tj]

Any fix for this. I'm getting these codes on a early model (Build 10/2010) n55

1C3102 - Engine-oil pressure sensor, plausibility: Pressure too low before engine star

130104 - VANOS intake: Control fault, camshaft stuck

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence

INFO 132201- VAnoS inlet: group error

INFO 132301 - Vanos: group error

Im thinking oil starvation.

[LA1Z24]

Do you see all that sludge? This is an abused engine. N55 burns very clean inside. This engine is fucked. Your oil passages are probably all plugged up with the same sludge you see everywhere else. This is the worst N55 I've ever seen as far as sludge goes. My blown up N55 has 140k on it and the inside is barely even stained brown. My M2 N55 looks pristine brand new inside. If this was in my shop I'd tell you it needs an engine as soon as I pulled the cover and saw this. It's not worth my time, or any shop worth their salt to go after this issue. Say I get it fixed...Maybe 2k miles later it happens again because some sludge broke off a cam cap and got pushed through the oiling system. You're not going to want to pay twice. You'll say BUT YOU JUST FIXED THIS!.

Suck it up and replace, or rebuild the engine.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by iverson03tj

Any fix for this. I'm getting these codes on a early model (Build 10/2010) n55

1C3102 - Engine-oil pressure sensor, plausibility: Pressure too low before engine star

130104 - VANOS intake: Control fault, camshaft stuck

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence

INFO 132201- VAnoS inlet: group error

INFO 132301 - Vanos: group error

Im thinking oil starvation.

Interested in the oil change frequency and type of oil used.

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Interested in the oil change frequency and type of oil used.

bunker oil at 10k mile intervals

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

bunker oil at 10k mile intervals

Indeed

[iverson03tj]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

Do you see all that sludge? This is an abused engine. N55 burns very clean inside. This engine is fucked. Your oil passages are probably all plugged up with the same sludge you see everywhere else. This is the worst N55 I've ever seen as far as sludge goes. My blown up N55 has 140k on it and the inside is barely even stained brown. My M2 N55 looks pristine brand new inside. If this was in my shop I'd tell you it needs an engine as soon as I pulled the cover and saw this. It's not worth my time, or any shop worth their salt to go after this issue. Say I get it fixed...Maybe 2k miles later it happens again because some sludge broke off a cam cap and got pushed through the oiling system. You're not going to want to pay twice. You'll say BUT YOU JUST FIXED THIS!.

Suck it up and replace, or rebuild the engine.

I was sold a lemon and a half. LOL
The previous owner didnt take care of it. probably didnt do the oil change in like 20km. I never seen a car with this much sludge ever!


I was initially chasing a low oil pressure before start code. And i cleaned up as much of the sludge as i could.
I took down the oil pan and found old timing chain guide in the oil pick up plastic part. So i replaced it and while i was there did the rod bearings as well. I cleaned the oil pan, no metal shavings just broken up plastic bits.
Inspected the cam journals and they were fine slight scoring but nothing deep enough that would catch my finger nail.

I heard some great stuff about BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner products but i cant get it ANYWHERE in Canada and the only distributor will only sell the engine flush to mechanic shops. -_-

So im going to run a cheap synthetic oil with some liqui moly engine flush and keep changing the oil and filter.



This car has been quite a learning experience. I hope I can save it!

The vanos seems to work then all of a sudden it goes haywire...
But im still stuck on whats up with this valvetronics. Im starting to think its a wiring issue or something with the DME, But im not that great with electrical work.

Now im getting a different code

[iverson03tj]

Now these are the codes, Dont mind the a/c codes, had to evac the a/c because i forgot to torque the powersteering pump line before I put the subframe back on. And the only other way to reach the bolt was to remove the a/c compressor.