[RizzyFizzy]

Hi everyone. This is my first ever time working on my car and I'm really excited to do my first oil change, but I'm also terrified I'm going to drop my car on myself or the jack stands.

I jacked the car up and got it to the point in the attached screenshot. The stands held the weight, but I was too scared to do any work on the car because I felt like the adaptors should have been perfectly flat to trust them to not slip. So I lowered the car and posted this instead of going through with the oil change. I saw some other users had these stands and adaptors so I got them.

My mechanic friend says that the slight angle is normal when only jacking up the front of the car.

I have everything I need to jack the car up on stands, but I'm worried that the jack pad adaptors will slip. I'm only doing the front wheels, and I'm using a nearby parking lot. Is this much angle normal? I'm lifting a 2017 440i convertible.


Torin Jack Stands

Pittsburgh 2 ton Car Jack

Standard Adaptor

[Billfitz]

I only use jacks when I need to get the car high enough to do serious work underneath, or when I'm doing tire rotation, and then I use four of them. For just an oil change it's ramps.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I only use jacks when I need to get the car high enough to do serious work underneath, or when I'm doing tire rotation, and then I use four of them. For just an oil change it's ramps.

Which ramps do you use? Did you buy low profile ones?

[Billfitz]

I use a set of steel ramps that I've had for 40 years.

[AspektUSA]

This is sketchy to say the least.

You should put them directly on the jack stands, and not use this adapter with this particular style of jack stand.

If you can, I would swap these for the ESCO or Harbor Freight equivalent which have a rubber flat top.

[RizzyFizzy]

Update: I asked a mechanic friend who said that the slight angle was inevitable if I'm only jacking up the front, which makes sense to me actually since the car is at an angle.

He told me to put the jack under the car to catch it, put chocks on the rear wheels and shake the car while on the stands to see if it falls. If it falls then better it fall on the jack + stands instead of me. I shook it as best I could and it didn't fall.

So I kept the jack in place, added chocks, and went for it.

The hardest part of the whole process was just getting the oil filter housing out. I can't believe it's in such a tight spot. Getting the drain plug, replacing the housing with a new filter, and filling the car were a breeze.

Also, jacking it for a second time was much easier than the first. this time there was less of an angle because I got the placement a bit better and I used the stands on the lowest setting.

I'm really proud of myself.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

This is sketchy to say the least.

You should put them directly on the jack stands, and not use this adapter with this particular style of jack stand.

If you can, I would swap these for the ESCO or Harbor Freight equivalent which have a rubber flat top.

You're the first person I've seen say that some stands don't need an adaptor. Every other place I've looked said unless you have a lift, use the adaptors because they'll crush the plastic. The stands aren't a solid block. They have a small inlet at the top. So they can't just go into the holes.

Heres what they look like:

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by RizzyFizzy

Every other place I've looked said unless you have a lift, use the adaptors because they'll crush the plastic.

+1. A lift requires the 'hockey pucks' as well. I have mine permanently attached to the plastic jack pads with stainless steel screws. The reason for the shape of the jack pads is that the BMW jack has a rectangular head that fits inside the jack pad opening. A lot of good that does us, since BMW stopped supplying jacks when they brought out the 3 series.

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by RizzyFizzy

You're the first person I've seen say that some stands don't need an adaptor. Every other place I've looked said unless you have a lift, use the adaptors because they'll crush the plastic. The stands aren't a solid block. They have a small inlet at the top. So they can't just go into the holes.

Heres what they look like:

Right, but they're just plastic jack points - easily replaceable if they get mangled over time.

I'd rather have the jack stand "bite" the plastic a bit and attain some extra friction than have two metal surfaces sliding against each other.

Here's what I suggest using in place of these ones: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ads-58789.html

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

Right, but they're just plastic jack points - easily replaceable if they get mangled over time.

I'd rather have the jack stand "bite" the plastic a bit and attain some extra friction than have two metal surfaces sliding against each other.

Here's what I suggest using in place of these ones: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ads-58789.html

How many times have you had to replace the plastic jack points

How many years have you been using them?

Aren't you worried that they will crumble while you're working and fall?

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

I'd rather have the jack stand "bite" the plastic a bit and attain some extra friction than have two metal surfaces sliding against each other.

Then don't buy metal hockey pucks. The NHL doesn't use them either.

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by RizzyFizzy

How many times have you had to replace the plastic jack points

How many years have you been using them?

Aren't you worried that they will crumble while you're working and fall?

I replaced two when I got the car used, due to what appeared to be road damage.

Cost me 10 whole dollars.

They're glass filled nylon fiber blocks (PA6 GF35), a strong plastic material with strength properties similar to common types of metal. This is the same plastic they make things like power tools out of.

The ESCO/HF jack stands are excellent and do away with the need for "jack pad adapters" - all you need is a hockey puck for some stand off between the jack and the body of the car.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

I replaced two when I got the car used, due to what appeared to be road damage.

Cost me 10 whole dollars.

They're glass filled nylon fiber blocks (PA6 GF35), a strong plastic material with strength properties similar to common types of metal. This is the same plastic they make things like power tools out of.

The ESCO/HF jack stands are excellent and do away with the need for "jack pad adapters" - all you need is a hockey puck for some stand off between the jack and the body of the car.

Please correct me if I have this wrong.

So you're saying you use a circular topped jack stand, and a hockey puck, instead of a regular jack stand and jack pad adaptor? This sounds like the exact same setup...

And you've been using them for years without needing to replace anything since the original ones when you bought the car?

[AspektUSA]

Originally Posted by RizzyFizzy

Please correct me if I have this wrong.

So you're saying you use a circular topped jack stand, and a hockey puck, instead of a regular jack stand and jack pad adaptor? This sounds like the exact same setup...

And you've been using them for years without needing to replace anything since the original ones when you bought the car?

Yes, see here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=23

Note how the jack point is entirely engulfed by the rubberized load bearing section of the jack stand.

When the car is lowered, the plastic point sinks down into the rubber top of the stand and creates a sturdy union of the two.

This is the closest replication to a 2 post shop lift you're going to get.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by AspektUSA

Yes, see here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=23

Note how the jack point is entirely engulfed by the rubberized load bearing section of the jack stand.

When the car is lowered, the plastic point sinks down into the rubber top of the stand and creates a sturdy union of the two.

This is the closest replication to a 2 post shop lift you're going to get.

Oh I see, so you use a hockey puck on top of the Floor Jack and don't use anything on top of the rubber top of the Jack Stands. That makes more sense because I thought you put the puck on top of the rubber jack stands.

I have this Floor Jack and didn't put anything on top of it because I thought the plastic was enough to prevent scratches, but I may grab a hockey puck to be extra safe.

I actually do like the look of this setup and may swap out my current stands because I was not a fan of the metal on metal. When I shook the car it didn't budge at all.

I wonder if the people that emphasized not putting the plastic directly on the jack top were referring to the metal topped ones that look like Vs.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

+1. A lift requires the 'hockey pucks' as well. I have mine permanently attached to the plastic jack pads with stainless steel screws. The reason for the shape of the jack pads is that the BMW jack has a rectangular head that fits inside the jack pad opening. A lot of good that does us, since BMW stopped supplying jacks when they brought out the 3 series.

That's why I didn't go with a circular topped stand because I figured I'd need the pads anyway, but other dude here is saying that they're unnecessary.

I'm just worried about them crumbling at the wrong time while I'm under the car since they don't have the rectangular insert.

I'm 100% sure BMW knows that this makes it more inconvenient, but part of the BMW experience is being able to tell people how inconvenient our cars are. So we feel like we have some insider information when in reality it's just a common grievance we bond over. Going through struggle together builds relationships.

[AspektUSA]

You're overthinking this.

The jack point blocks are strong plastic that are virtually unbreakable.

People use the old Y style jack stands as well, it just gouges them up a little.

The jack pad adapters are designed for jacks that might not have the right "cup", not jack stands.

[Billfitz]

These are the hockey pucks we're talking about, so named for their resemblance to...hockey pucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The jack point blocks are hardly indestructible. Mine got chewed to the point I had to replace them. Not by me, but by a tire shop that didn't use hockey pucks. That's when I replaced them but not before permanently attaching pucks to them.

[cleaver]

Yes, you can break the plastic jacking points. But Billfitz is absolutely correct - just use ramps for an oil change. It's much easier, you don't risk damaging the plastic jack pads, and you don't risk other damage by using the wrong central jacking point. I only use jackstands for brake or suspension work.

[Billfitz]

Even when I do a full jacking I use the ramps. It's a lot easier to lift the car high enough in the front when you've already got it lifted by that eight inches or so.

[RAK92]

Originally Posted by cleaver

Yes, you can break the plastic jacking points. But Billfitz is absolutely correct - just use ramps for an oil change. It's much easier, you don't risk damaging the plastic jack pads, and you don't risk other damage by using the wrong central jacking point. I only use jackstands for brake or suspension work.

I’ve been using jackstands for oil changes, but considering purchasing ramps because it’ll be easier. What ramps would be recommended for a 2016 435i with the M Sport package (i.e. it has the M Sport front bumper)? Even though my floor jack is listed as a “low profile” jack, I have to lift the car up on one side, put wood blocks under the tire so that I can get the floor jack under the car to lift it at the front lifting point. Not too difficult, but takes some time.

[RizzyFizzy]

Originally Posted by RAK92

I’ve been using jackstands for oil changes, but considering purchasing ramps because it’ll be easier. What ramps would be recommended for a 2016 435i with the M Sport package (i.e. it has the M Sport front bumper)? Even though my floor jack is listed as a “low profile” jack, I have to lift the car up on one side, put wood blocks under the tire so that I can get the floor jack under the car to lift it at the front lifting point. Not too difficult, but takes some time.

That's my problem with this whole thing, everyone is saying "USE RAMPS" and nobody is mentioning the ramp they use that I can actually buy. Like Ok where do I buy the steel ramps you got 40 years ago lmao. I also have m-sport bumper on my 440i so I can't just use any ramp due to clearance.

Also, I live in an apartment building and don't have a ton of storage space, so the ramps aren't as convenient to keep around as a jack and jack stands. Additionally, I want to do tire rotations eventually so I'll need to learn to use jacks one way or the other.