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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / TSBs and Service Bulletin > Should there be an angle over the jack pad adaptors? - Terrified First Time DIY
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      10-24-2024, 05:18 PM   #23
AspektUSA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RizzyFizzy View Post
That's my problem with this whole thing, everyone is saying "USE RAMPS" and nobody is mentioning the ramp they use that I can actually buy. Like Ok where do I buy the steel ramps you got 40 years ago lmao. I also have m-sport bumper on my 440i so I can't just use any ramp due to clearance.

Also, I live in an apartment building and don't have a ton of storage space, so the ramps aren't as convenient to keep around as a jack and jack stands. Additionally, I want to do tire rotations eventually so I'll need to learn to use jacks one way or the other.
Race ramps appear to have the right approach angle for low cars. The ones at autozone are too steep.

Or get an actual rubber hockey puck and jack up your car from the center jack point (engine subframe). Slowly lower car onto the jack stands you have, or replace those with the HF ones I linked.
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      10-29-2024, 10:36 AM   #24
RizzyFizzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspektUSA View Post
Race ramps appear to have the right approach angle for low cars. The ones at autozone are too steep.

Or get an actual rubber hockey puck and jack up your car from the center jack point (engine subframe). Slowly lower car onto the jack stands you have, or replace those with the HF ones I linked.


Yeah that second part of your comment is what I did exactly in the original post and my update. People were just saying the angle under my adapters were bad, but my mechanic friend said it's unavoidable since I'm only jacking up the front of the car. Which makes total sense.
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      11-07-2024, 09:05 AM   #25
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For oil changes and front-end work, it's so much easier to drive up on ramps than use jackstands.

I use plastic Rhino ramps as well as 1 or pieces of 2-3' piece of wide lumber (2x10 or 2x12) so as to not scrape the bumper. This works fine, even on my lowered cars over the years.

First drive your car up on the lumber pieces to get it 1.5" or so in the air. Then position the ramps next, and continue driving up the ramps. This way the lumber helps to prevent and "bottoming out" due to the curve in the bottom of the ramp and makes the transition angle less sharp.
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