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      06-18-2021, 12:21 PM   #1
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Object stuck in 12 volt outlet

Hey all. I just realized my outlet has been like this from when I bought the car. Not sure what the previous owner did. Does anyone recognize what's going on here? I think maybe a tip of an adapter snapped off and might need tweezers

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      06-18-2021, 12:26 PM   #2
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That's what it looks like. I think of these cars energize the circuit when any door is opened or maybe disarmed or other triggers... just be very careful that you don't ground it on the sides.

Question is why is it stuck down there? Sticky soda maybe dried like a glue and held down the tip? Might be hard to remove.
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      06-18-2021, 12:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviantspeed View Post
That's what it looks like. I think of these cars energize the circuit when any door is opened or maybe disarmed or other triggers... just be very careful that you don't ground it on the sides.

Question is why is it stuck down there? Sticky soda maybe dried like a glue and held down the tip? Might be hard to remove.
Should I take the fuse out and I should be safe to have my way with it?
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      06-18-2021, 12:32 PM   #4
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Rubber handled needle nose pliers.
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      06-18-2021, 12:48 PM   #5
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Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then grab a set of pliers and go to town.
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      06-18-2021, 12:56 PM   #6
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If that's metal, your fuse is probably already blown. Took me a while to find the fuse number, but it's here somewhere. The graphics on fuse card don't help for lighters.
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      06-18-2021, 02:04 PM   #7
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It’s best to remove the panel, held on by two 10mm screws. Then you can disconnect the two cables and work on the outlet on your workbench. Here’s a link to the cabin filter change procedure, which shows you how to remove the panel.
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      06-18-2021, 02:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livetodrive View Post
It’s best to remove the panel, held on by two 10mm screws. Then you can disconnect the two cables and work on the outlet on your workbench. Here’s a link to the cabin filter change procedure, which shows you how to remove the panel.
Unfortunately it is in the cupholder not the underpanel outlet
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      06-18-2021, 03:13 PM   #9
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You don't need to take it out. Just ensure there is no power at the outlet, and grab the end with needle nosed pliers.

If you look at your pic, its just the removable end from an adapter (where you unscrew the end to replace the fuse).

It should come out really easy.
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      06-18-2021, 03:23 PM   #10
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Disconnect the battery FIRST, then do whatever. If a metal tool or jewelry gets a positive and ground connection, they will get RED HOT within seconds.

Here's an idea of what happens. Imagine this with a tool in your hands or a ring on your finger.
And this battery is smaller/less powerful than the one in our cars!
FF to 2:00

Last edited by exE36M3; 06-19-2021 at 01:20 AM..
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      06-18-2021, 04:00 PM   #11
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I had a penny stuck in there from the previous owner when I bought my car. The fuse was blown but it was a pain to get out. Either pull the fuse or disconnect the battery and then yank that sucker out with some needle pliers like others have stated. You'll be fine
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      06-18-2021, 04:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exE36M3 View Post
Disconnect the battery FIRST, then do whatever. It metal tools or jewelry get a positive and ground connection, they will get RED HOT within seconds.

Here's an idea of what happens. Imagine this with a tool in your hands or a ring on your finger.
And this battery is smaller/less powerful than the one in our cars!
FF to 2:00
Lord yes, please don’t stick anything in a power socket without disconnecting the battery. Pulling the fuse isn’t enough. With the socket blocked, you have no way of knowing if you pulled the right one.

Disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery takes all of 30 seconds and is the only correct way to safely work on vehicle electronics when there is a risk of shock or shorting the circuit. There is zero risk of electrical shock or damage to your car’s sensitive electronics with the battery disconnected.
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      06-19-2021, 08:45 AM   #13
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I'm sure you got it done, but wow, just wow.

Rubber gripped needle nosed usually have exposed tips and can short the fused circuit.

Disconnect battery - do you have a diag tool to reset module codes and possible CEL? Even pulling the battery, there can be electrons on the circuit waiting to unleash sparky hot dogs.

Circuit appears wide open - test it with a fluke or test light, most homeowners have these things.

Fused circuit - even if grounded, the fuse will pop. Assumes stock wiring, and no sparks in hot dog videos.
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      06-19-2021, 09:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviantspeed View Post
Disconnect battery - do you have a diag tool to reset module codes and possible CEL? Even pulling the battery, there can be electrons on the circuit waiting to unleash sparky hot dogs.
True, on these cars it’s a good idea to leave the door and trunk open for about 15 minutes to let it go to ‘sleep’ before disconnecting the battery. You’ll still get a chassis stabilization error, but it’ll clear itself in short order.

Disconnecting sooner may result in other errors, but they can be cleared. A short stomp on the brake pedal after disconnect can help discharge any residual stored charge.
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      06-19-2021, 09:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviantspeed View Post
Disconnect battery - do you have a diag tool to reset module codes and possible CEL?
The worst that can happen is that he'll have to reset the clock. If he has Nav the car will do it.
Quote:
Even pulling the battery, there can be electrons on the circuit waiting to unleash sparky hot dogs.
That can happen with electronics that have power supply capacitors that store charge, but there's nothing of that sort on the outlet circuit. If it was me I'd pull the fuse, checking to be sure there's no voltage present on the center polepiece with a DMM, as even getting at the battery to pull the negative lug is a major undertaking.
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      06-19-2021, 09:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
If it was me I'd pull the fuse, checking to be sure there's no voltage present on the center polepiece with a DMM, as even getting at the battery to pull the negative lug is a major undertaking.
How so? On mine, there’s a little panel release ‘knob’ to turn, and the panel comes quickly off to expose the battery. A few turns with a 10mm wrench, and the negative terminal comes right off. All of 30 seconds time, no exaggeration. Is it different on the GT?
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      06-19-2021, 09:55 AM   #17
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It's totally different on the GT. There's a floor trim panel, a luggage compartment trim panel, and once they're pulled there's a bolted in storage compartment above the battery that has to be removed.
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