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      05-11-2020, 11:33 AM   #1
ivstealth
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BMW Leak Detection Module Line Break

Hey guys, I'm stumped on my F30. I had the stealership replace the DMTL pump because it is covered under emissions warranty and everything was OK for a week and then the check engine light came back on the other day. I then had bmw check it again...here is the video that the dealership sent me.



The technician indicates that there is a short circuit in the wire and that it would require 2-3 more hours of diagnosis. Anyone know what I can do from here with this bullshit emissions?maybe a bypass? I can't fathom taking apart my whole car to find a possible grounded wire.

Thanks guys.

Last edited by ivstealth; 05-11-2020 at 11:42 AM..
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      05-11-2020, 02:06 PM   #2
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I'd be surprised it if it's a grounded wire. Did the dealership perform a pressure test of the gas cap to make sure it is properly sealing? Was your in-tank fuel pump replaced recently? If so, did they replace the gasket? Any other work performed on the car where they may have potentially disconnected something related to the evap system?

Last edited by IraHayes; 05-11-2020 at 02:26 PM..
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      05-11-2020, 02:08 PM   #3
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It has resistance on the wire that connect to the ECU. Somewhere between the back right of my car and front left where my ECU is, there is a bad connection. Lol. What a POS
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      05-11-2020, 03:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivstealth View Post
It has resistance on the wire that connect to the ECU. Somewhere between the back right of my car and front left where my ECU is, there is a bad connection. Lol. What a POS
Has he checked the fuses? If the fuse checks out, is it the correct amperage for the circuit? If it's a 10 amp circuit and someone wrongfully installed a 5 amp fuse I can see this potentially causing an issue. In theory the lighter duty fuse should blow, but if it isn't, I can see this causing issues. Also, maybe pull the fuse and look at the contacts inside the fuse box to make sure there isn't some kind of foreign metal object in there.
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      05-11-2020, 03:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IraHayes View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivstealth View Post
It has resistance on the wire that connect to the ECU. Somewhere between the back right of my car and front left where my ECU is, there is a bad connection. Lol. What a POS
Has he checked the fuses? If the fuse checks out, is it the correct amperage for the circuit? If it's a 10 amp circuit and someone wrongfully installed a 5 amp fuse I can see this potentially causing an issue. In theory the lighter duty fuse should blow, but if it isn't, I can see this causing issues. Also, maybe pull the fuse and look at the contacts inside the fuse box to make sure there isn't some kind of foreign metal object in there.
I know what you mean, but the thing is it's getting power. There's three cables one power, one ground, and one that communicates with the ecu. The one that communicates with the ecu goes on and off. If the fuse was bad it would just permanently be off no? This is such a isolated thing that I can't find anything about it.
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      05-11-2020, 06:01 PM   #6
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Ah, I see. Hopefully the issue is at or near one of the connectors then; easier repair that way. It will suck if you have to start taking a lot of stuff apart to find it.
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      05-11-2020, 06:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IraHayes View Post
Ah, I see. Hopefully the issue is at or near one of the connectors then; easier repair that way. It will suck if you have to start taking a lot of stuff apart to find it.
The only plan I have right now is to locate a wiring diagram and splice from the start of the harness to the fuel tank. Lol
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      05-12-2020, 01:09 AM   #8
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Maybe I'm off my rocker here but if you replace something and then a week later an issue appears and is traced back to the same general area, then wouldn't it make sense that you'd carefully inspect your work and the work area to make sure the prior job didn't cause the issue? Seems pretty obvious to me that the prior repair and current issue are related.

I would bet the short is in the first 1 foot of wire at the back of the car, not the DME side. Electrical wiring issues like this just don't suddenly appear after years unless someone or something damaged the wires or harness.

Last edited by XutvJet; 05-12-2020 at 01:15 AM..
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      05-12-2020, 09:17 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
Maybe I'm off my rocker here but if you replace something and then a week later an issue appears and is traced back to the same general area, then wouldn't it make sense that you'd carefully inspect your work and the work area to make sure the prior job didn't cause the issue? Seems pretty obvious to me that the prior repair and current issue are related.

I would bet the short is in the first 1 foot of wire at the back of the car, not the DME side. Electrical wiring issues like this just don't suddenly appear after years unless someone or something damaged the wires or harness.
The problem didn't surface after replacing a part. It's been intermittent for a month prior to any work being done. I will try to observe the wires and harness in the back. It just sucks because after 1/2 feet the wires go over the gas tank. I forgot to mention that in my initial post.
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      07-14-2020, 01:20 AM   #10
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Throwing a bump out there. Wondering if I can use ignore this issue or it's something that I need to Tap I to the nest of wires by the ecu and run it all the way there.
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      08-21-2020, 03:59 PM   #11
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The DMTL doesn't really do anything useful. It's not even used on cars outside of the US, Canada and South Korea. It should be possible to code it to not active, I've even come across a place in Eastern Europe that will do that, but I haven't been able to find out how to do it with Bimmercode or E-SYS. A fault in it doesn't even show up in the car self-diagnostics or most OBD diagnostic tools. Anything of a critical nature is going to fire up more than just the CEL, so I'd put a piece of electrical tape over the lamp on the dash and forget about it.
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      08-21-2020, 04:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
The DMTL doesn't really do anything useful. It's not even used on cars outside of the US, Canada and South Korea. It should be possible to code it to not active, I've even come across a place in Eastern Europe that will do that, but I haven't been able to find out how to do it with Bimmercode or E-SYS. A fault in it doesn't even show up in the car self-diagnostics or most OBD diagnostic tools. Anything of a critical nature is going to fire up more than just the CEL, so I'd put a piece of electrical tape over the lamp on the dash and forget about it.
I appreciate you clearing that up. I put it under codes to ignore with bm3 unfortunately I have not found anyway to disable it with esys... it's still on to this day.
I even checked the connecting wire as I was told by my buddy who works with bmws that they do go loose, but not in my case.
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      08-21-2020, 04:31 PM   #13
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There has to be an E-SYS cafd to enable or disable it, that's the only way BMW could have it functional in the US and Canada but not in Europe. I went through all the listed expert mode entries in Bimmercode, including those in the tank section, but DMTL doesn't show up anywhere. I don't have E-SYS any more, but if you've got nothing better to do one day you may find DMTL cafd in there.
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      03-20-2022, 09:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivstealth View Post
I appreciate you clearing that up. I put it under codes to ignore with bm3 unfortunately I have not found anyway to disable it with esys... it's still on to this day.
I even checked the connecting wire as I was told by my buddy who works with bmws that they do go loose, but not in my case.
Sorry for the thread bump, but curious if you ever figured this out? I just popped code 194602, Tank Leakage module, electrical short to ground...I was going to just replace the pump and breather pipe and a quick google search point to NVLP, but now wondering if I may have a wiring short and not the pump itself
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      03-20-2022, 09:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Sorry for the thread bump, but curious if you ever figured this out? I just popped code 194602, Tank Leakage module, electrical short to ground...I was going to just replace the pump and breather pipe and a quick google search point to NVLP, but now wondering if I may have a wiring short and not the pump itself
I have not to this day figured out what it was , however it’s a useless feature because I’ve not had any problems or issues with fueling or fuel problems. Lol
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      03-20-2022, 09:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivstealth View Post
I have not to this day figured out what it was , however it’s a useless feature because I’ve not had any problems or issues with fueling or fuel problems. Lol
Dang...any issues passing inspection or did you somehow get it coded out? I am on bm3, but not sure I will get fuel system readiness for NYS inspection the this code present

Thanks
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      03-20-2022, 09:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Dang...any issues passing inspection or did you somehow get it coded out? I am on bm3, but not sure I will get fuel system readiness for NYS inspection the this code present

Thanks
I know they look for o2 readiness but I don’t know if they can detect a coded out check engine light. I haven’t gotten an inspection at all.
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      03-20-2022, 11:00 PM   #18
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Of course after making my comments mine tossed codes and lit the dash light. In my case it turned out that a mouse had chewed the wires. I wasn't easy to trace, I had to pull the right rear wheel well liner, where I discovered the broken wires and Mickey's nest. I still think there should be a way to code it out, since they don't use it in Europe, but have no idea how.
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      04-14-2022, 05:57 PM   #19
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Anyone know the PN for the electrical connector that plugs into the leak detection module?
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      04-26-2022, 01:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Sorry for the thread bump, but curious if you ever figured this out? I just popped code 194602, Tank Leakage module, electrical short to ground...I was going to just replace the pump and breather pipe and a quick google search point to NVLP, but now wondering if I may have a wiring short and not the pump itself
I've got the same 194602 (and P147E) error codes, and a new NVLD pump and breather didn't fix it. No obvious wire issues under the wheel well liner. What finally fixed yours?
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      04-26-2022, 02:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhnmdahl View Post
I've got the same 194602 (and P147E) error codes, and a new NVLD pump and breather didn't fix it. No obvious wire issues under the wheel well liner. What finally fixed yours?
I ended up wasting money on a new NVLD and breather as well...It was definitely a wire, and looks like its a pretty common F3x issue. I ultimately took some time, removed the wheel and wheel well liner, and inspected the wiring inch by inch, from both sides. I'n some case you may need to start peeling away the insulation tape back to fin the break. Here is where mine had worn through and had the slightest bit of green tinge to it.

Break was in area circled red and you could barely see it. The wire is very thin. Hope this helps.


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      04-29-2022, 02:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
I ended up wasting money on a new NVLD and breather as well...It was definitely a wire, and looks like its a pretty common F3x issue. I ultimately took some time, removed the wheel and wheel well liner, and inspected the wiring inch by inch, from both sides. I'n some case you may need to start peeling away the insulation tape back to fin the break. Here is where mine had worn through and had the slightest bit of green tinge to it.

Break was in area circled red and you could barely see it. The wire is very thin. Hope this helps.
Dman, thanks so much for the info. I'll likely try to find a similar problem and splice mine up myself and fix it, but a bit bummed BMW seems to use under-sized and under-protected wiring for these. I'm looking at a 1/4" split loom to house heavier gauge wiring once I do a repair.

Appreciate the quick feedback.
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