[Bryan_KiesMotorsports]

Originally Posted by etinifni

Anti seize on plugs, that's no bueno on turbo cars isn't it?

Why would that be? I haven't heard that before. I would think the potential for added heat would mean you need it more. Stuck plugs are no Bueno lol

[etinifni]

Originally Posted by bkkeys

Why would that be? I haven't heard that before. I would think the potential for added heat would mean you need it more. Stuck plugs are no Bueno lol

Every mechanic I know.

[Bryan_KiesMotorsports]

Originally Posted by etinifni

Every mechanic I know.

I just did a search and it looks like people are going both ways of it. They say you just have to be careful not to apply too much or you could potentially misfire

[Johannes356]

What timing. I am doing this tomorrow morning as I am 500 miles from 60k. Thanks for the vid.

[Bryan_KiesMotorsports]

Originally Posted by Johannes356

What timing. I am doing this tomorrow morning as I am 500 miles from 60k. Thanks for the vid.

No problem, hope it helps. I want to do a video on how to change the brake fluid in the next few months too.

[Johannes356]

So I can confirm that all the tools he recommends are the ones you will need. Especially the 1inch extension for the last one. I can also confirm that it will drive to Autozone with 3 new plugs and 1 old one just fine when you go to buy that extension you thought you could do without. lol

That being said, did/does anyone else have two vacuum lines running to the underside of your engine cover to a small box there? Mine is a 2012 so maybe its an early model design? I had to also disconnect those hoses in order to get the plastic cover off just to get started as an FYI.

[Class5Kayaker]

Thanks for the video. I am tackling this in the next few weeks. I already got my plugs, but your video saved me from a trip to O'Reilly Auto Parts for the 1" extension.

Originally Posted by bkkeys

No problem, hope it helps. I want to do a video on how to change the brake fluid in the next few months too.

I did my brake fluid a couple months ago. Easy DIY. I followed BavAuto's video HERE. It helped me out a lot. They also have all the parts you need for the job.

[rtb001]

Where are people here sourcing their spark plugs? My dealer just quoted me $130 for a set of 4

On the net I see the following:

World OEM Parts at $18.66

Pelican Parts at $16

Hua Orton via AliExpress at $69 shipped for 10 (!!) plugs

The AliExpress seller states these are genuine NGK plugs made in Japan. I'm wondering if I should just order a lot. There'd be enough plugs for my 328i AND my wife's X3 (in about 30k miles) and I'd still have 2 left over!

I've never ordered these parts online. I'm not sure those first 2 websites are any more trustworthy than the AliExpress seller.

[Arzatema]

I know a thin wall socket is needed for this service. Does anyone have a recommended socket?

Burger socket with magnet
http://www.burgertuning.com/N54_BMW_...t_adapter.html

Amazon socket without magnet
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-237...rk+plug+socket

[Bryan_KiesMotorsports]

Originally Posted by Arzatema

I know a thin wall socket is needed for this service. Does anyone have a recommended socket?

Burger socket with magnet
http://www.burgertuning.com/N54_BMW_...t_adapter.html

Amazon socket without magnet
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-237...rk+plug+socket

The Burger one definitely won't work on the N20. I checked with them about it.. Not sure about the Amazon one..

[Class5Kayaker]

Originally Posted by Arzatema

I know a thin wall socket is needed for this service. Does anyone have a recommended socket?

Burger socket with magnet
http://www.burgertuning.com/N54_BMW_...t_adapter.html

Amazon socket without magnet
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-237...rk+plug+socket

I ordered mine from BavAuto. Part #CTA2376. $9.95 Works perfectly.

[Class5Kayaker]

Finally got around to replacing my plugs.

First off, big thanks to bkkeys for posting the video. VERY helpful and made my install a breeze. I did a couple things differently which I'll mention here in a minute.

First thing that was different for me was removing the engine cover. I bought my car used, CPO, and I never thought it was an N26. The vin decoder says it's an N20, but my the underside of my cover has a molded box of sorts with two vacuum hoses running to it. My build date was June 2012, so I'm not sure if it's just an early model function or if I have an N26 (California Emissions). The Bentley manual didn't mention this part either, but there are two hoses on the front left (below the oil cap) that I had to disconnect before removing the cover. So check yours first to see if you have them before you try and pull it off. Just squeeze the notched tabs and pull them off.



After pulling my first plug and replacing it and torquing down to proper specs I ran into an issue. My extension kept separating from my spark plug socket and the socket was stuck to the plug in the spark plug well because of the inner rubber of the socket holding to the plug so tightly. So I used the universal repair tool (duct tape) and didn't have any separation issues during the rest of the job.



The other big difference I did compared to the video was remove the bulkhead cowl cover. It takes just a couple minutes and gives you complete access to the pug closest to the firewall. Here are the steps:

1) Remove the left (over the fuse box) and right (over the brake fluid reservoir) covers. It takes a 10mm socket and a 90 degree turn on each of the three plastic "bolts". I didn't take a pic of the locations since this is something I'm sure everyone has already done. If not, it's self-explanatory and no picture is required.

2) Remove the thick rubber seal at the bottom of where those covers were. It just pulls towards you easily. BEFORE you pull it off, remove the power cable that is in the notches on the front of the weather strip.





3) Remove the 7 10mm screws holding the bulkhead cowl cover in place. I forgot to take a pic of the three on the left, but i've circled them in the pic I took to show how much access you get to that fourth plug once you remove the bulkhead cowl cover.

Three screws on the left (see how easy it is to access that fourth plug?). Oh, and I used that wrench for removal only...I used a torque wrench for installing them.


First three of four screws on the right


Fourth screw on the right



The Bentley manual says you need to remove the strut bar, but that requires a unique socket and new stretch fasteners. The good news is YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE IT! The cowl cover slides out with a little finagling by pulling it forward and under the strut bar.

Re-install of the cowl cover is the opposite of removal. My only tip is to push down slightly on the rear tab slot for the engine cover that is directly in the center of the engine bay back by the firewall. Once I figured that out it slid right back in place when I was done with installing all four plugs.

That's about it. My last pic is of the new plug next to the old plug. Part number is NGK: SILZBR8D8S

[etinifni]

That's similar to how techs change plugs by removing cowl pieces and seals.

[lukeiswright]

Originally Posted by Class5Kayaker

Finally got around to replacing my plugs.

First off, big thanks to bkkeys for posting the video. VERY helpful and made my install a breeze. I did a couple things differently which I'll mention here in a minute.

First thing that was different for me was removing the engine cover. I bought my car used, CPO, and I never thought it was an N26. The vin decoder says it's an N20, but my the underside of my cover has a molded box of sorts with two vacuum hoses running to it. My build date was June 2012, so I'm not sure if it's just an early model function or if I have an N26 (California Emissions). The Bentley manual didn't mention this part either, but there are two hoses on the front left (below the oil cap) that I had to disconnect before removing the cover. So check yours first to see if you have them before you try and pull it off. Just squeeze the notched tabs and pull them off.



After pulling my first plug and replacing it and torquing down to proper specs I ran into an issue. My extension kept separating from my spark plug socket and the socket was stuck to the plug in the spark plug well because of the inner rubber of the socket holding to the plug so tightly. So I used the universal repair tool (duct tape) and didn't have any separation issues during the rest of the job.



The other big difference I did compared to the video was remove the bulkhead cowl cover. It takes just a couple minutes and gives you complete access to the pug closest to the firewall. Here are the steps:

1) Remove the left (over the fuse box) and right (over the brake fluid reservoir) covers. It takes a 10mm socket and a 90 degree turn on each of the three plastic "bolts". I didn't take a pic of the locations since this is something I'm sure everyone has already done. If not, it's self-explanatory and no picture is required.

2) Remove the thick rubber seal at the bottom of where those covers were. It just pulls towards you easily. BEFORE you pull it off, remove the power cable that is in the notches on the front of the weather strip.





3) Remove the 7 10mm screws holding the bulkhead cowl cover in place. I forgot to take a pic of the three on the left, but i've circled them in the pic I took to show how much access you get to that fourth plug once you remove the bulkhead cowl cover.

Three screws on the left (see how easy it is to access that fourth plug?). Oh, and I used that wrench for removal only...I used a torque wrench for installing them.


First three of four screws on the right


Fourth screw on the right



The Bentley manual says you need to remove the strut bar, but that requires a unique socket and new stretch fasteners. The good news is YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE IT! The cowl cover slides out with a little finagling by pulling it forward and under the strut bar.

Re-install of the cowl cover is the opposite of removal. My only tip is to push down slightly on the rear tab slot for the engine cover that is directly in the center of the engine bay back by the firewall. Once I figured that out it slid right back in place when I was done with installing all four plugs.

That's about it. My last pic is of the new plug next to the old plug. Part number is NGK: SILZBR8D8S

I had the same exact experience as you. My 2012 328i also has those hoses attached to the box on the underside of the engine cover. Like you said it's most likely just because it's a 2012. Also my spark plug socket got stuck on the very last spark plug and it took me 30 minutes to dig out good idea with the duct tape, wouldve saved me a lot of time!

[Arzatema]

Originally Posted by Class5Kayaker

I ordered mine from BavAuto. Part #CTA2376. $9.95 Works perfectly.

Thanks for the advice. I just put in the order this morning. Did you end up using anti seize and dielectric grease? I have read BMW says no and the Bentley manual says yes.

[Class5Kayaker]

Originally Posted by Arzatema

Thanks for the advice. I just put in the order this morning. Did you end up using anti seize and dielectric grease? I have read BMW says no and the Bentley manual says yes.

I did not. Bentley Manual does NOT say you should use anti-seize in their directions. They do have a "side note" that says, "Never use any kind of oil or copper-based anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads."

NGK (that's who makes our plugs) Technical Bulletin #NGKSP-0907-1 says that all their plugs are manufactured with a special metal shell (trivalent) plating to prevent damage to the cylinder head. For plugs with this special metal plating, anti-seize is not recommended during installation. Applying anti-seize to these plugs will cause the installer to mistakenly over-torque the plug in the cylinder head stretching the metal between the last thread and the seal between the cylinder head and plug. This increases the probability that the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.

Even the other major manufacturers (Autolite, AC Delco, Champion, etc.) all say to not use anti-seize. These days, their plugs are all manufactured to not seize through various special metal processing techniques I'm not smart enough to fully understand and adding anti-seize could actually make things worse.

[badbread]

I had a hell of a time getting the spark plug socket out when I changed out my 335's plugs. What I did was buy a locking socket extension. After I was done torque'ing the plug in I used the locking extension in combination with a dental pick (to lift the locking mechanism while in the coil channel)

Worked great, I can take a picture if that helps.

[Class5Kayaker]

Originally Posted by badbread

I had a hell of a time getting the spark plug socket out when I changed out my 335's plugs. What I did was buy a locking socket extension. After I was done torque'ing the plug in I used the locking extension in combination with a dental pick (to lift the locking mechanism while in the coil channel)

Worked great, I can take a picture if that helps.

You didn't use my duct tape method??

[Arzatema]

Thanks for all your help! I changed my plugs in no time last weekend. I opted to not follow your duct tape hack and purchased locking extensions they worked perfect.

Originally Posted by Class5Kayaker

I did not. Bentley Manual does NOT say you should use anti-seize in their directions. They do have a "side note" that says, "Never use any kind of oil or copper-based anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads."

NGK (that's who makes our plugs) Technical Bulletin #NGKSP-0907-1 says that all their plugs are manufactured with a special metal shell (trivalent) plating to prevent damage to the cylinder head. For plugs with this special metal plating, anti-seize is not recommended during installation. Applying anti-seize to these plugs will cause the installer to mistakenly over-torque the plug in the cylinder head stretching the metal between the last thread and the seal between the cylinder head and plug. This increases the probability that the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.

Even the other major manufacturers (Autolite, AC Delco, Champion, etc.) all say to not use anti-seize. These days, their plugs are all manufactured to not seize through various special metal processing techniques I'm not smart enough to fully understand and adding anti-seize could actually make things worse.

[joq3]

Will any of these spark plug sockets work?
Are they thin walled enough?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-Spark...8AAOSwaB5Xm62H

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIDENT-MA...EAAOSwqfNXoh4q

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-2446-L...MAAOxyA9dSZ8mK

EDIT: Or this one:
http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...0-045_xl_1.jpg

I can buy that in a store where I live.

[Class5Kayaker]

Originally Posted by joq3

Will any of these spark plug sockets work?
Are they thin walled enough?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-Spark...8AAOSwaB5Xm62H

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIDENT-MA...EAAOSwqfNXoh4q

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-2446-L...MAAOxyA9dSZ8mK

EDIT: Or this one:
http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...0-045_xl_1.jpg

I can buy that in a store where I live.

They probably all work. I'd try that last one you linked first since you can get it locally and if it's not right it'll be easy enough to return. Of the first three, I'd go with the first one you linked.

[CalCarNut]

Originally Posted by rtb001

Where are people here sourcing their spark plugs? My dealer just quoted me $130 for a set of 4

On the net I see the following:

World OEM Parts at $18.66

Pelican Parts at $16

Hua Orton via AliExpress at $69 shipped for 10 (!!) plugs

The AliExpress seller states these are genuine NGK plugs made in Japan. I'm wondering if I should just order a lot. There'd be enough plugs for my 328i AND my wife's X3 (in about 30k miles) and I'd still have 2 left over!

I've never ordered these parts online. I'm not sure those first 2 websites are any more trustworthy than the AliExpress seller.

late to the party but I order from Pelican parts all the time (for my Benz). Decent prices and knowledgeable staff....