[teaston]

Originally Posted by Chelsea_Tractor

^ I used a heat gun to gently warm up the can. I also used a small digital point and shoot laser gun to check temperature. Then use the heat gun to dry the lacquer. It worked a treat. I was very impressed with the end result.

The problem with a heat gun, or fan heater is they tend to blow dust and crap onto the paint/lacquer, hence why I use a halogen radiant heater.

[Chubster]

Has anybody used any other lacquer than what teaston mentioned? It is not sold in Finland and nobody is willing to ship it outside of the UK either (guess flammable substance or something).

We of course have some available but rather go with a tried and tested one.

[ossi1]

Originally Posted by Alice Coupe

I’d leave it - same advice as I gave fuzzybunny. When they corrode, you give a 20% contribution to BMW and get a new, warranted, wheel. It cheaper than a refurb.

Can you confirm that if they corrode as a result of the kerbing they will get replaced under warranty ?

cheers.

[nikhildj]

Originally Posted by teaston

I thought I'd give this a DIY thread as I'm so impressed with the results! I will never get a diamond cut wheel refurbed again.

I used Halfords emery paper kit, first the medium grade and then the fine, always going in the same direction, until you can't see the damage anymore (if there's some really deep nicks then you might just have to reduce their visual appearance).

You then want to rub down the repaired area and a couple of inches around it with 800 grit wet & dry so you can blend the new lacquer in with the old. Clean thoroughly with 70% IPA before spray lacquering with alloy wheel lacquer, I used the E Tech one on Amazon.

First do a light 'tack' coat, then build up around 3 more coats every 15 minutes then leave for at least 24-48 hours to fully dry before wet sanding with 2000 then 3000 grit and finally buff to a shine with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Leave at least a week before sealing, so all the gases can escape.

Temperature is also important, you want the wheel and spray can to be at least 20°C throughout the spraying and at least a couple of hours into the drying process.

If you look closely you can see where the repaired area is a slightly different colour, but you would have to be looking for it.

Before and after:

[img]https://s14.postimg.cc/kxpmf3su9/IMG_2286.jpg[/img]

[img]https://s14.postimg.cc/6fsf741j5/IMG_2287.jpg[/img]


free upload pictures

Originally Posted by teaston

I thought I'd give this a DIY thread as I'm so impressed with the results! I will never get a diamond cut wheel refurbed again.

I used Halfords emery paper kit, first the medium grade and then the fine, always going in the same direction, until you can't see the damage anymore (if there's some really deep nicks then you might just have to reduce their visual appearance).

You then want to rub down the repaired area and a couple of inches around it with 800 grit wet & dry so you can blend the new lacquer in with the old. Clean thoroughly with 70% IPA before spray lacquering with alloy wheel lacquer, I used the E Tech one on Amazon.

First do a light 'tack' coat, then build up around 3 more coats every 15 minutes then leave for at least 24-48 hours to fully dry before wet sanding with 2000 then 3000 grit and finally buff to a shine with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Leave at least a week before sealing, so all the gases can escape.

Temperature is also important, you want the wheel and spray can to be at least 20°C throughout the spraying and at least a couple of hours into the drying process.

If you look closely you can see where the repaired area is a slightly different colour, but you would have to be looking for it.

Before and after:

[img]https://s14.postimg.cc/kxpmf3su9/IMG_2286.jpg[/img]

[img]https://s14.postimg.cc/6fsf741j5/IMG_2287.jpg[/img]


free upload pictures

Amazing job! Curbed one of the rim on our X3 and now wondering if I should try this guide or just go for diamond cut repair. Any expert advise? A bit hard to see the damage in this picture but it's roughly a third of the rim and heavy in couple of spots but low/moderate scratches otherwise.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by nikhildj

Amazing job! Curbed one of the rim on our X3 and now wondering if I should try this guide or just go for diamond cut repair. Any expert advise?

I no mate! I thought these X3 wheels were unkerbable, I clipped loads of kerbs with mine and still not a mark on them!

Definitely have a go, only thing doing it this time or the year is the temperature, you want the wheel and air temperature above 20°C for the lacquer to dry properly.

[nikhildj]

Originally Posted by teaston

I no mate! I thought these X3 wheels were unkerbable, I clipped loads of kerbs with mine and still not a mark on them!

Definitely have a go, only thing doing it this time or the year is the temperature, you want the wheel and air temperature above 20°C for the lacquer to dry properly.

Cheers mate, I don't know if I can continue procrastinating over the scuff marks until summer.