[david51]

apptest crisfeup@gmail.com

you can take the power supply and ground directly behind the ventilation on the left side, there is a hidden socket that is useless.

[crisfeup@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by david51

apptest crisfeup@gmail.com

you can take the power supply and ground directly behind the ventilation on the left side, there is a hidden socket that is useless.

david51,

Thanks for the information. Is this connection always powered on? Did you used this one to supply your board?
I can't see in the picture what is the rigth connection. Can you provide addition information so I can undurstad wath is the rigth wires.

Thanks in advance.

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

david51,

Thanks for the information. Is this connection always powered on? Did you used this one to supply your board?
I can't see in the picture what is the rigth connection. Can you provide addition information so I can undurstad wath is the rigth wires.

Thanks in advance.

If it's the 12V socket then it's not powered all the time. So it's not suitable for this project. This project requires to be always on to catch CAN messages in time.

You have to use the FEM wire I indicated as it's always on.

[david51]

crisfeup@gmail.com

I took the wrong picture

here is the power supply of the card still on and the mass behind the ventilation.

red the power supply
brown ground

[david51]

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

If it's the 12V socket then it's not powered all the time. So it's not suitable for this project. This project requires to be always on to catch CAN messages in time.

You have to use the FEM wire I indicated as it's always on.

I tested and it is good continuously and not after contact

[crisfeup@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by david51

crisfeup@gmail.com

I took the wrong picture

here is the power supply of the card still on and the mass behind the ventilation.

red the power supply
brown ground

Good information david51! I'm going to use this free connection also.

[david51]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

Good information david51! I'm going to use this free connection also.

[duculete]

Nice project,
what is the standby power consumption for this setup?

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by duculete

Nice project,
what is the standby power consumption for this setup?

Hi, should be about 30mA.

Arduino Nano itself operates with 17mA and other components are really low power consuming (fo example, MCP2515 uses 5mA).

[Oxidas1993]

Hello, does anyone managed to remote start a car?

[crisfeup@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Oxidas1993

Hello, does anyone managed to remote start a car?

I already assembled the electrical board. Next step is put everything in the car.
I will keep you posted on the find result.

[crisfeup@gmail.com]

Is there other place, than FEM unit, to connect the KCAN2_H and KCAN2_L?
I plan to put the electric board just above the obd plug. A connection near that place it would be easy to connect.

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

Is there other place, than FEM unit, to connect the KCAN2_H and KCAN2_L?
I plan to put the electric board just above the obd plug. A connection near that place it would be easy to connect.

First things that come to my mind are idrive or idrive wheel

[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

I already assembled the electrical board. Next step is put everything in the car.
I will keep you posted on the find result.

I have connected everything to my f32 but its not working. Seems like something is wrong as when I connect 12v positive wire to a board it straight away turns on ignition and does not turns off at all. And plus its not getting a tripple lock signal at all. So maybe I done something wrong or its not compatible with my car. 😂

[david51]

Originally Posted by crisfeup@gmail.com

Is there other place, than FEM unit, to connect the KCAN2_H and KCAN2_L?
I plan to put the electric board just above the obd plug. A connection near that place it would be easy to connect.

you can connect to the idrive wheel as I did
it's not mine but it's in the same place

[david51]

Originally Posted by Oxidas1993

I have connected everything to my f32 but its not working. Seems like something is wrong as when I connect 12v positive wire to a board it straight away turns on ignition and does not turns off at all. And plus its not getting a tripple lock signal at all. So maybe I done something wrong or its not compatible with my car. 😂

I had the same problem it was due to the LM2596S card which was defective (my relays were still on)
I bought another LM2596S card and no more problems

[Oxidas1993]

Originally Posted by david51

I had the same problem it was due to the LM2596S card which was defective (my relays were still on)
I bought another LM2596S card and no more problems

On my next days off will try to connect another LM2596S. Thank you

[Pondaire]

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

Hi, should be about 30mA.

Arduino Nano itself operates with 17mA and other components are really low power consuming (fo example, MCP2515 uses 5mA).

This project is super cool! Amazing job!
I am doing something like this for my project as well but with an aftermarket remote fob and an ESP32 with WiFi, Bluetooth, LoRa and LTE. Initially I was using a standalone ATmega328p, but caved in for the extra possibilities of the ESP32 (phone control, OTA updates, etc).
I see you changed the unlock to lock to turn on the car. I was going to mention this as well. No need to unlock the car, just by pressing lock from inside the car and keeping the fob on until you turn on the car, it turns off the alarm and doesn't trigger the anti-thief.
Also, in mine, since I don't have a spare BMW fob and I'm using an aftermarket remote fob (with PKE), I actually have it to arm the alarm (red rear view mirror LED) when you press lock. In order to do this, if the car thinks there is a remote inside the car, all you need to do is activate the lock and battery of the in-car fob for a really short time (0.3 seconds?)... This way the lock signal is sent but the car does not have time to locate the fob inside the car.

Finally, in regards to the current draw you are seeing... 30mA is too high for the car and I'm surprised you haven't seen any messages of high battery use when you turn on the car manually. I believe the usual locked/shutdown battery current draw is 5-10mA.
Using a standalone microprocessor would help, but you can also use one of the many arduino libraries to put it in sleep mode until the button signal is received or every X seconds.
You can also use transistors instead of relays to drop the current even lower.
The other thing you can do is feed it exactly 3.3 or 5V, whichever you are using, with a good quality (and low quescient current) drop down buck converter or similar.

Again, amazing project and I'm happy to see someone has finally done this! Hopefully I'll finish my project one day and I can post about it lmao.

[crisfeup@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Pondaire

This project is super cool! Amazing job!
I am doing something like this for my project as well but with an aftermarket remote fob and an ESP32 with WiFi, Bluetooth, LoRa and LTE. Initially I was using a standalone ATmega328p, but caved in for the extra possibilities of the ESP32 (phone control, OTA updates, etc).
I see you changed the unlock to lock to turn on the car. I was going to mention this as well. No need to unlock the car, just by pressing lock from inside the car and keeping the fob on until you turn on the car, it turns off the alarm and doesn't trigger the anti-thief.
Also, in mine, since I don't have a spare BMW fob and I'm using an aftermarket remote fob (with PKE), I actually have it to arm the alarm (red rear view mirror LED) when you press lock. In order to do this, if the car thinks there is a remote inside the car, all you need to do is activate the lock and battery of the in-car fob for a really short time (0.3 seconds?)... This way the lock signal is sent but the car does not have time to locate the fob inside the car.

Finally, in regards to the current draw you are seeing... 30mA is too high for the car and I'm surprised you haven't seen any messages of high battery use when you turn on the car manually. I believe the usual locked/shutdown battery current draw is 5-10mA.
Using a standalone microprocessor would help, but you can also use one of the many arduino libraries to put it in sleep mode until the button signal is received or every X seconds.
You can also use transistors instead of relays to drop the current even lower.
The other thing you can do is feed it exactly 3.3 or 5V, whichever you are using, with a good quality (and low quescient current) drop down buck converter or similar.

Again, amazing project and I'm happy to see someone has finally done this! Hopefully I'll finish my project one day and I can post about it lmao.

As someone had this messages of high battery use after install the system?

[AlbertoSONIC]

Originally Posted by Pondaire

This project is super cool! Amazing job!
I am doing something like this for my project as well but with an aftermarket remote fob and an ESP32 with WiFi, Bluetooth, LoRa and LTE. Initially I was using a standalone ATmega328p, but caved in for the extra possibilities of the ESP32 (phone control, OTA updates, etc).
I see you changed the unlock to lock to turn on the car. I was going to mention this as well. No need to unlock the car, just by pressing lock from inside the car and keeping the fob on until you turn on the car, it turns off the alarm and doesn't trigger the anti-thief.
Also, in mine, since I don't have a spare BMW fob and I'm using an aftermarket remote fob (with PKE), I actually have it to arm the alarm (red rear view mirror LED) when you press lock. In order to do this, if the car thinks there is a remote inside the car, all you need to do is activate the lock and battery of the in-car fob for a really short time (0.3 seconds?)... This way the lock signal is sent but the car does not have time to locate the fob inside the car.

Finally, in regards to the current draw you are seeing... 30mA is too high for the car and I'm surprised you haven't seen any messages of high battery use when you turn on the car manually. I believe the usual locked/shutdown battery current draw is 5-10mA.
Using a standalone microprocessor would help, but you can also use one of the many arduino libraries to put it in sleep mode until the button signal is received or every X seconds.
You can also use transistors instead of relays to drop the current even lower.
The other thing you can do is feed it exactly 3.3 or 5V, whichever you are using, with a good quality (and low quescient current) drop down buck converter or similar.

Again, amazing project and I'm happy to see someone has finally done this! Hopefully I'll finish my project one day and I can post about it lmao.

Hi! Thanks for this writeup!

ESP32 is really nice but... aren't you worried about its power consumption?

The idea of putting arduino to sleep is very nice, I'll have to look into it. 30mA is not so much but, combined with the insurance gps black box, it causes the "Battery discharges" warning in the idrive after a few days of car being parked.

About the relays, they don't cause a lot of power consumption. Actually, they don't consume anything when off. Regarding the voltage conversion, it's already done with a step down buck converter, pretty efficiently and with low quiescent current.

Hope to see your finished project soon!

[Pondaire]

Originally Posted by AlbertoSONIC

Hi! Thanks for this writeup!

ESP32 is really nice but... aren't you worried about its power consumption?

The idea of putting arduino to sleep is very nice, I'll have to look into it. 30mA is not so much but, combined with the insurance gps black box, it causes the "Battery discharges" warning in the idrive after a few days of car being parked.

About the relays, they don't cause a lot of power consumption. Actually, they don't consume anything when off. Regarding the voltage conversion, it's already done with a step down buck converter, pretty efficiently and with low quiescent current.

Hope to see your finished project soon!

This is the one I'm waiting to receive. My standalond ATMega328P ran low of memory since I have such a crazy algorithm to deal with all the I/O of the aftermarket remote alarm lol, so this should help.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000542688096.html?gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
https://github.com/Xinyuan-LilyGO/LilyGO-T-SIM7000G

It has enough people using it that the supplier actually listens to requests and makes improvements + releases code.
Current-wise it's supposed to be below 1mA during sleep. I've read of anywhere from 600 to 30 microAmps. Who knows.
It has an ESP32, WiFi, Bluetooth, LTE with 2G/3G backup, and a battery charger.
The last thing I'd like to add to my algorithm is something to control the AC/heater... But I think I need to deal with LIN in order to get this done.

[ViktorasLT95]

This is a very nice idea, but I will not be trying this, looks too hard for me