[Wookiee123]

Reviving this thread. Happens to me anytime I drive longer than 45 minutes. I've had the sensor relocation, the reprogramming, and the resistor installed per the SIB but it still happens. Fan settings don't matter, auto / manual, whatever. Nothing changes it. Two dealers have looked at it. Freon charge is fine.

I'm at my wits end; I can't take the car anywhere long term because of it when temperatures are 85+ and high humidity throughout the midwest right now.

Anyone found a different fix other than selling the car?

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by Wookiee123

Reviving this thread. Happens to me anytime I drive longer than 45 minutes. I've had the sensor relocation, the reprogramming, and the resistor installed per the SIB but it still happens. Fan settings don't matter, auto / manual, whatever. Nothing changes it. Two dealers have looked at it. Freon charge is fine.

I'm at my wits end; I can't take the car anywhere long term because of it when temperatures are 85+ and high humidity throughout the midwest right now.

Anyone found a different fix other than selling the car?

So you're saying that up until 45 minutes has passed, it blows cold?

One quick thing to check, make sure the coolant level is good in your smaller overflow tank under the hood. This one is tied to, among other things, your AC compressor. When too low, the car has to limit how long the compressor stays on to prevent overheating the system. Up until it reaches concerning temperatures, however, it will work fine. My car has a very slow leak in that system for some reason, I have to periodically add coolant to keep the AC (and everything else) running right.

Also notable is that your car is running the newer R1234yf refrigerant. Not that this affects much, the principles are basically the same, just noteworthy for future readers. Unfortunately, this system is not yet easily serviceable at home.

[Livetodrive]

Since mine was reprogrammed the freeze ups have not reoccurred. I’d take it back to the dealer.

[Wookiee123]

Originally Posted by auburnf30x

So you're saying that up until 45 minutes has passed, it blows cold?

One quick thing to check, make sure the coolant level is good in your smaller overflow tank under the hood. This one is tied to, among other things, your AC compressor. When too low, the car has to limit how long the compressor stays on to prevent overheating the system. Up until it reaches concerning temperatures, however, it will work fine. My car has a very slow leak in that system for some reason, I have to periodically add coolant to keep the AC (and everything else) running right.

Also notable is that your car is running the newer R1234yf refrigerant. Not that this affects much, the principles are basically the same, just noteworthy for future readers. Unfortunately, this system is not yet easily serviceable at home.

Yes, still freezes up after 45 minutes. Blows cold until then; well as cold as it can after all the changes to evaporator operating temperature in attempts to fix it. To my knowledge, no one has checked the coolant levels. I'm a B46 330i; I'll have to check the proper tank for it's level. Since it's an overflow, is it pressurized on these cars? Check it hot or cold?

Originally Posted by Livetodrive

Since mine was reprogrammed the freeze ups have not reoccurred. I’d take it back to the dealer.

It's been to my local dealer three times and another dealer once. I'm not sure another trip is going to do much for me. I've been talking to my local dealer to see what my options are, but so far, they have nothing to offer me.

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by Wookiee123

Yes, still freezes up after 45 minutes. Blows cold until then; well as cold as it can after all the changes to evaporator operating temperature in attempts to fix it. To my knowledge, no one has checked the coolant levels. I'm a B46 330i; I'll have to check the proper tank for it's level. Since it's an overflow, is it pressurized on these cars? Check it hot or cold?

It's pressurized, but not as much as the main tank. What I do is check it anywhere cold to warm (not hot). Remove the cap, and then start the engine. As things warm up the coolant gets drawn up into the system. I keep adding coolant to keep the levels in between the two markers until it is no longer bubbling and the level stabilizes. The 'bubbling' only happens if the level gets really low, otherwise it's more stable.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by Wookiee123

Reviving this thread. Happens to me anytime I drive longer than 45 minutes. I've had the sensor relocation, the reprogramming, and the resistor installed per the SIB but it still happens. Fan settings don't matter, auto / manual, whatever. Nothing changes it. Two dealers have looked at it. Freon charge is fine.

I'm at my wits end; I can't take the car anywhere long term because of it when temperatures are 85+ and high humidity throughout the midwest right now.

Anyone found a different fix other than selling the car?

What are you setting the fan level to? If it's too low, then it will freeze over.

[Wookiee123]

Originally Posted by Wires

What are you setting the fan level to? If it's too low, then it will freeze over.

I should've been more clear. I can leave the fan on manual full speed or auto full speed, it doesn't matter. Recirculate on or off, doesn't matter. Recirc off just makes it happen faster, of course.

Need to check the coolant level tomorrow to see if that has anything to do with my symptoms. Local dealer is checking into any other options, but given this is a common issue with no "silver bullet", I suspect I'm out of options.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by Wookiee123

I should've been more clear. I can leave the fan on manual full speed or auto full speed, it doesn't matter. Recirculate on or off, doesn't matter. Recirc off just makes it happen faster, of course.

Need to check the coolant level tomorrow to see if that has anything to do with my symptoms. Local dealer is checking into any other options, but given this is a common issue with no "silver bullet", I suspect I'm out of options.

There is a common issue with the pressure sensor on the condenser side (I think I have that right) which can cause over-pressure and then freezing.

You'd think the dealer would have caught that, unless it wasn't failing when they tested it.

[auburnf30x]

Originally Posted by Wires

There is a common issue with the pressure sensor on the condenser side (I think I have that right) which can cause over-pressure and then freezing.

You'd think the dealer would have caught that, unless it wasn't failing when they tested it.

For the benefit of future and current readers, low coolant in the smaller tank has a few different errors that can be tripped as a result, one of which being compressor shutoff protect due to over pressure detected, or something along those lines. There’s few other protective shutoff codes that will come up if allowed to get worse. Oddly, not a one of them will result in a visible warning to the driver.

[Wookiee123]

Originally Posted by Wires

There is a common issue with the pressure sensor on the condenser side (I think I have that right) which can cause over-pressure and then freezing.

You'd think the dealer would have caught that, unless it wasn't failing when they tested it.

No codes, no faults. Nothing. I'm willing for them to try anything at this point. I'm a little bummed, as I have had a roadtrip planned for months expecting to be able to take this car but I'm now renting one because I can't have a vacation ruined by non-functional AC in the southern USA states' heat and humidity.

Originally Posted by auburnf30x

For the benefit of future and current readers, low coolant in the smaller tank has a few different errors that can be tripped as a result, one of which being compressor shutoff protect due to over pressure detected, or something along those lines. There’s few other protective shutoff codes that will come up if allowed to get worse. Oddly, not a one of them will result in a visible warning to the driver.

I wish this was covered in the service bulletin so that I could convince the dealer to check. My car is still under bumper to bumper and then CPO after that.

[Wires]

Maybe the coils are plugged? Bugs on the condenser, leaves or something sucked into the evaporator?

[TheFanatic]

there are only two things that cause a freeze up in all the years Ive worked on air conditioning. A dirty filter not allowing enough air or a bad low temperature sensor causing it to freeze up. It's also possible that it got moved into the wrong location, but a pressure sensor wont cause this problem. A bad charge wont cause that either

[Livetodrive]

I’d ask the dealer for a loaner until they fix your car.

[agentorange]

I'd check that the path between the HVAC intake and the filter isn't blocked by tree debris or the like. IIRC the intake is covered by some of the trim at the base of the windshield and the slot is pretty small.

[Wookiee123]

As an update to my situation, the dealer is replacing both the compressor and the dryer (their words) as directed by BMW Corporate. I won't have the car back for a while, but will update once it's ready. Hoping it's good after this.

[bimmerdz]

Common BMW issue, Had that on my 3 previous BMWs f20, f32 nd now my F31.

There is enough r134a, no leaks ...

I just added the evaporator temperature sensor Adapter today, costs £1 and 20 minutes DIY job as per: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...47927-9999.pdf

Will have a long drive over the weekend and see. My next step would be the software update.

Will keep you updated.

[Eestrada359]

Originally Posted by bimmerdz

Common BMW issue, Had that on my 3 previous BMWs f20, f32 nd now my F31.

There is enough r134a, no leaks ...

I just added the evaporator temperature sensor Adapter today, costs £1 and 20 minutes DIY job as per: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...47927-9999.pdf

Will have a long drive over the weekend and see. My next step would be the software update.

Will keep you updated.

Any update on how your drive went? I drive last night from Colorado to Ohio (arrived this morning) and at some point in Illinois it appears my system froze up too.. the wife was driving at that point while I was taking a power nap, so I’m not sure what the A/C setting was at.. I suspect she had it at low temp low fan speed.. I will be in Ohio for this week and would like to have AC on the drive back.. it was a pain to turn off the A/C in 90degree weather for it to Thaw for around 30 mins to get a good 5 minute worth of AC so any thoughts are appreciated..

Also my f30 is still under warranty so I will be reaching out to BMW when I get back home as I need the car while on my trip and cannot leave it at a service center while in Ohio

[Wires]

Originally Posted by Eestrada359

Any update on how your drive went? I drive last night from Colorado to Ohio (arrived this morning) and at some point in Illinois it appears my system froze up too.. the wife was driving at that point while I was taking a power nap, so I’m not sure what the A/C setting was at.. I suspect she had it at low temp low fan speed.. I will be in Ohio for this week and would like to have AC on the drive back.. it was a pain to turn off the A/C in 90degree weather for it to Thaw for around 30 mins to get a good 5 minute worth of AC so any thoughts are appreciated..

Also my f30 is still under warranty so I will be reaching out to BMW when I get back home as I need the car while on my trip and cannot leave it at a service center while in Ohio

If it's a fan issue, I'd recommend not lowering fan speed below the mid point. It doesn't get stupid hot where I live, and I had it free up in 20C weather on the first or second fan level settings. Since I've left it in the middle (or higher when the cabin gets hot in the sun), never had anymore issues.

And yes, had the same deal as you. Turn off the AC, bake while waiting for it to thaw.

[quakerroatmeal]

BMW seems to have the worst ac system I've encountered. Mines randomly does the same thing sometime. Sometimes it takes a little while for the ac compressor to kick on as well.

[splashy]

i remember reading another thread that some one posted and said to run the fans higher and keep the temp to 72 degrees F been doing this all summer so far and no issues

[Eestrada359]

Originally Posted by splashy

i remember reading another thread that some one posted and said to run the fans higher and keep the temp to 72 degrees F been doing this all summer so far and no issues

Living in Colorado, where it’s not humid at all I get away with blowing at low temp low speed.. but at the same time It’s not like I drive for hours non stop in my city like I did over the course of the road trip.. I’m going to get the car into the shop since it’s under warranty just to have them check it out, but driving back I’m going to have the fan either low temp and full blast or above the 70degree mark.. at least until I get back into CO

[conuconu]

Hi,
does anyone know where the condensate leak from a / c is?