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      10-27-2020, 07:14 AM   #23
Watsey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBri89 View Post
So what are the jubilee clips in the Repair Kit for?
Is that incase you replace the rubber gaiters on the track rod?
Yes, exactly that. I checked newtis and the full procedure includes checking and adjusting the tolerances on the internal steering shaft using a digital tool (and other mechanical tools).

As part of that process you're meant to disconnect the track rod ends and the gaiters. New gaiter clips are part of the thrust block kit.
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      10-27-2020, 07:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
Yes, exactly that. I checked newtis and the full procedure includes checking and adjusting the tolerances on the internal steering shaft using a digital tool (and other mechanical tools).

As part of that process you're meant to disconnect the track rod ends and the gaiters. New gaiter clips are part of the thrust block kit.
I guess most people don't bother with all that, just replace the rubber bushing with the new spring and cap?
That seems to do the trick for most people.
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      10-27-2020, 08:38 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
Great news. I tried simply tightening the existing block and although just 1/8th of a turn on the cap did quieten the knocking it also caused stiction in the steering so I backed it off. I'll replace the block at some point during half term - hopefully the redesigned unit will be quieter (having two o-rings will obviously stop it rattling around) and the new slip guides should also provide a better surface-surface contact with the internal steering shaft.

Fingers crossed.
Would love to know how you get on. I did exactly the same as you with the original thrust piece - Turned around 1/16th and had very sticky steering, was quite alarming when turning my first junction and the wheel not wanting to return!

In the end i backed it off and it only resulted in a turn of ~3mm on the circumference from its starting position. I did this around 8 months ago and the knock hasn't returned.

My worry about fitting the new piece would be how much trial and error it would take getting the steering feel right with such a small tolerance!!

Reflecting on this, i would probably jack the front end and take the airbag off the steering wheel and use the bolt to check how much torque is needed to turn the unladen wheels. Anyone got any other ideas?
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      11-03-2020, 12:20 PM   #26
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I installed the new thrust block this afternoon. Pretty easy job :
  • Jack the front wheels ~300mm off the ground.
  • Remove front under tray.
  • Remove steering rack cover trim - didn't bother removing the EPS cables because one of the connectors just wouldn't release and there was enough room to do the job with them still connected.
  • Undo the thrust block cover cap - I was concerned that the internal spring would still be under compression and would 'ping' the cap off as it came clear of its threads, but it was fine.
  • 45 degree long reach pliers were very useful to get the spring and thrust block out.
  • New thrust block was liberally lubed and was easy to align and push all the way into the rack. Getting the new spring and cap back into place was also a breeze.
  • newtis lists the torque for the cover cap as 70Nm and states that it is "absolutely mandatory". I was suspicious, because 70Nm of torque will exert a lot of pressure through the spring and, having had a good look at the components and dimensions before fitting, I was concerned that the spring would become a 'blocked' i.e. solid. This is exactly what happened - gently applying the torque with a torque wrench, and checking the steering resistance at regular intervals, the steering suddenly became solid (immovable) just before 70Nm was achieved. The spring must have become a solid block and was exerting so much force through the thrust piece that the internal steering rod was unable to move.
  • Backing the cover cap off by around 1/4 turn and then taking the car for a test drive confirmed that it was enough for the steering to have 'just' enough resistance to feel tight whilst still allowing it to move well enough that the steering self-centres. I expect it to loosen-up over the next few miles and as the slip plates on the thrust block mate to the steering rod.
    Reassembl

Disappointingly, the persistent knocking noise which has been plaguing my car for years has not been cured.

Watsey's search for his nemesis continues.
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      11-03-2020, 12:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
I installed the new thrust block this afternoon. Pretty easy job :


Disappointingly, the persistent knocking noise which has been plaguing my car for years has not been cured.

Watsey's search for his nemesis continues.
Seriously? I've just bought the kit and tool to hopefully deal with my knock, after polybush on both sets of arms and new front dampers hasn't cured it.

Does yours mostly do it when turning left and the drivers side goes over a pot hole or imperfection? I have no issues when turning right and it's mostly fine going in a straight line over imperfections. It also follows the road, as if somewhere between the front wheels and steering wheel there is some play that allows them to move ever so slightly independent of each other.
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      11-03-2020, 02:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G50 View Post
Seriously? I've just bought the kit and tool to hopefully deal with my knock, after polybush on both sets of arms and new front dampers hasn't cured it.

Does yours mostly do it when turning left and the drivers side goes over a pot hole or imperfection? I have no issues when turning right and it's mostly fine going in a straight line over imperfections. It also follows the road, as if somewhere between the front wheels and steering wheel there is some play that allows them to move ever so slightly independent of each other.
There several different reasons why knocking noises can occur, and at least one of them is definitely related to the steering rack. They are known to go out of tolerance, and also for internal gear mechanisms to wear. A knock/click is common when the steering wheel is rocked L-R when the engine is not running.

The replacement thrust block is a different design and may help/completely cure a knocking rack which has some excess tolerance relating to the internal shaft. The full block replacement process on newtis also requires the use of special attachments and a digital tolerance gauge, but I don't have those.

Knocking can also come from track rod ends, ball joints, dampers, top mounts; all manner of components. Several of those are going to be replaced in a few weeks' time - the car is heading towards 100K miles and a bit of preventative maintenance can only help (and may cure the problem).
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      11-03-2020, 06:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
Yes, exactly that. I checked newtis and the full procedure includes checking and adjusting the tolerances on the internal steering shaft using a digital tool (and other mechanical tools).

As part of that process you're meant to disconnect the track rod ends and the gaiters. New gaiter clips are part of the thrust block kit.
which section was it under in newtis please? i'm digging around in ISTA now and can't find it :-(
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      11-04-2020, 03:51 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
Yes, exactly that. I checked newtis and the full procedure includes checking and adjusting the tolerances on the internal steering shaft using a digital tool (and other mechanical tools).

As part of that process you're meant to disconnect the track rod ends and the gaiters. New gaiter clips are part of the thrust block kit.
which section was it under in newtis please? i'm digging around in ISTA now and can't find it :-(
The newtis section code is "32 13 580 Replacing the EPS steering thrust piece (ThyssenKrupp)".
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      11-26-2020, 06:45 AM   #31
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Had my steering rack repair fitted today (replacement thrust piece) and thought I'd update on the effects.

Before:
-A loud pronounced knock when the drivers side wheel went over pothole/imperfections, much more pronounced when turning left.

-A loose feeling in the steering, as if there was play between the steering wheel and the wheels, which felt as though the wheels could ever so slightly move on their own without any steering wheel input.
This meant the car needed lots of minute steering adjustments in a straight line, especially on the motorway, but also when going round fast sweeping bends, constant corrections needed to keep a consistent turn.

I have been chasing this knock over bumps since spring, having replaced the front shocks(i wanted to do this anyway) and then polybushing the LCAs (camber and thrust arms). The knock got progressively worse after the polybushes.

After:
No knocks! The car drives straight, is much easier to place in the corners, isn't easily diverted by ruts and catseyes etc, and I can finally feel the effects of the polybushes and improved dampers (Koni special active).
103,000 miles and it drives like a brand new car and better than stock, really happy.

If anybody is in the Lancashire area, I had the work done at Tensport Performance, who I initially used to use for all the work on my track car, but I now use him for everything on the F31 also, having done all the suspension work and the last service, as I trust him and his work.
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      11-26-2020, 08:06 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G50 View Post
Had my steering rack repair fitted today (replacement thrust piece) and thought I'd update on the effects.

Before:
-A loud pronounced knock when the drivers side wheel went over pothole/imperfections, much more pronounced when turning left.

-A loose feeling in the steering, as if there was play between the steering wheel and the wheels, which felt as though the wheels could ever so slightly move on their own without any steering wheel input.
This meant the car needed lots of minute steering adjustments in a straight line, especially on the motorway, but also when going round fast sweeping bends, constant corrections needed to keep a consistent turn.

I have been chasing this knock over bumps since spring, having replaced the front shocks(i wanted to do this anyway) and then polybushing the LCAs (camber and thrust arms). The knock got progressively worse after the polybushes.

After:
No knocks! The car drives straight, is much easier to place in the corners, isn't easily diverted by ruts and catseyes etc, and I can finally feel the effects of the polybushes and improved dampers (Koni special active).
103,000 miles and it drives like a brand new car and better than stock, really happy.

If anybody is in the Lancashire area, I had the work done at Tensport Performance, who I initially used to use for all the work on my track car, but I now use him for everything on the F31 also, having done all the suspension work and the last service, as I trust him and his work.
Excellent result! How much did it cost you in total if you don't mind me asking?

I'm in West Yorkshire and have the same symptoms you had but can't find anyone local who is willing to do it. Although I have now found a very reputable specialist in Darren Wood based in Stockport who does it for around £100. Just need to find time to make the 50 min trip as well as book a suitable date as he is fully booked for several weeks!
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      11-26-2020, 09:59 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fez_7 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by G50 View Post
Had my steering rack repair fitted today (replacement thrust piece) and thought I'd update on the effects.

Before:
-A loud pronounced knock when the drivers side wheel went over pothole/imperfections, much more pronounced when turning left.

-A loose feeling in the steering, as if there was play between the steering wheel and the wheels, which felt as though the wheels could ever so slightly move on their own without any steering wheel input.
This meant the car needed lots of minute steering adjustments in a straight line, especially on the motorway, but also when going round fast sweeping bends, constant corrections needed to keep a consistent turn.

I have been chasing this knock over bumps since spring, having replaced the front shocks(i wanted to do this anyway) and then polybushing the LCAs (camber and thrust arms). The knock got progressively worse after the polybushes.

After:
No knocks! The car drives straight, is much easier to place in the corners, isn't easily diverted by ruts and catseyes etc, and I can finally feel the effects of the polybushes and improved dampers (Koni special active).
103,000 miles and it drives like a brand new car and better than stock, really happy.

If anybody is in the Lancashire area, I had the work done at Tensport Performance, who I initially used to use for all the work on my track car, but I now use him for everything on the F31 also, having done all the suspension work and the last service, as I trust him and his work.
Excellent result! How much did it cost you in total if you don't mind me asking?

I'm in West Yorkshire and have the same symptoms you had but can't find anyone local who is willing to do it. Although I have now found a very reputable specialist in Darren Wood based in Stockport who does it for around £100. Just need to find time to make the 50 min trip as well as book a suitable date as he is fully booked for several weeks!
£100 all in mate, including the supply of the kit.
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      09-20-2021, 07:27 AM   #34
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Hello, I have a F31 09/2014 and I noticed also a slight knock in the steering wheel when engine is off and turning the steer from left to right, so I first checked the steering rack cap but it's different from the one described above.

Could I also have repair kit for this type of steering rack? (see picture)

Or just open it and put some new grease on the part or better leave this type closed?

Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yktqli1cg6...22622.jpg?dl=0
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      09-21-2021, 11:16 AM   #35
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I believe this kit only applies to cars with the variable sport settings which tighten up the steering in sports modes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rytec View Post
Hello, I have a F31 09/2014 and I noticed also a slight knock in the steering wheel when engine is off and turning the steer from left to right, so I first checked the steering rack cap but it's different from the one described above.

Could I also have repair kit for this type of steering rack? (see picture)

Or just open it and put some new grease on the part or better leave this type closed?

Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yktqli1cg6...22622.jpg?dl=0
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      09-21-2021, 11:17 AM   #36
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I have just had this done today. And it has completely transformed the car for me. I honestly thought I would also need a new bottom arm or similar, but the new updated steering rack bush has eliminated all vagueness, rattles and knocks - it drives like new again.

For anyone up in the North East, I got mine done by Plough Motors - BMW Specialist in East Boldon (near Sunderland). Parts and Labour PLUS an MOT came to £115.00. So without the MOT I would imagine around £75.00 or so - bargain in my eyes, and saves on buying the special tool, parts and lying on the driveway!

Cheers
Joe
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      09-23-2021, 09:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b16jsy View Post
I believe this kit only applies to cars with the variable sport settings which tighten up the steering in sports modes.
OK but the weird thing is when I put my car in sport mode it also feels like the steeringwheel is stiffer.
But nevermind, it is not the same so I will leave it as it is.
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