[ArmyNurseRN]

Trailering is all about knowing what your vehicle can safely and legally tow. Most vehicles can tow...even motorcycles can tow! It all depends on how much weight you plan on adding to your vehicles suspension and tires (payload) and how much weight you will add to your engine and brakes (trailer weight). Fortunately, that information is readily available on your drivers door and with a quick browse on the internet.

The payload number is (relatively) unique to each car and is printed on your drivers door on the "Tire and Loading Information" sticker. The reason it's unique to your car is because most cars have different options which change the weight of cars even from the same model lineup. The manufacturers have already done the calculation for you and printed the remaining weight the suspension can safely handle. In my example, my car has "899 lbs" of additional weight it can handle. This includes the weight of one driver (usually around 180 lbs) and full tank of gas. You must subtract from this number any additional passengers, cargo in the car, non-factory add ons, and most importantly, the tongue weight of your trailer. The tongue weight is the not the TOTAL weight of your trailer, but simply the amount of downward weight the car's hitch will see.

Just to be sure, when you hook up your trailer, you should weigh your car at a certified scale and make sure that the total weight of your car's tires do not exceed the GVWR(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) (listed on the black sticker). Same areas even require this.

Now, most trucks have a GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) on that sticker to identify the total weight of the trailer and the towing vehicle. On cars, it's something you have to look up from the manufacturer. I found that these cars that the maxed unbraked towing capacity is 1650 lbs and braked capacity is 3960 lbs. (http://www.towingcapacity.co.uk/car-.../bmw-4-series/). A braked capacity is using a trailer equipped with trailer brakes.

Remember, these numbers listed are MAXIMUM weights. It is typically advised to stay at 80% of maximum or less to account for dynamic stresses and increase safety margins.

With regards to speed, you must always know what the speed rating is for your trailer tires. Most trailer tires are rated at a maximum speed of 65 mph. I know you can drive a little bit faster if you slightly increase the PSI (about 10). But it's considered by most to be wise and prudent to keep any vehicle with standard trailer tires at 65 mph--a blow out with a trailer going any speed is a very bad day.

With all that being said...YES, you can most certainly tow jet skis, boats, etc., as long as they fall within your cars specifications.

Again, using my car as an example, 2018 F36 440i, here's how I would calculate a trailer load:

WEIGHT ALLOWANCE: 899 lbs (from door sticker)
(80% safety margin) -180 lbs
MAX WEIGHT I WILL PUT ON/IN MY CAR: 719 lbs
(wife and kids): -300 lbs
(cargo): -50 lbs
(weight of hitch): -50 lbs
MAX TONGUE WEIGHT OF TRAILER: 319 lbs

MAX TRAILER WEIGHT: 1320 lbs (80% of 1650 lbs)

Safe towing!

[eugene89us]

Not giving up mine. Without InvisiHitch, I would just have a regular F30 instead of a workhorse F30. Turns heads on the interstate!

[Moonbat]

M Smurf:

Some of us have had negative experiences with the Invisihitch. Buying a used one off someone else could be an issue. Read the forum page around two thirds of the way down on the following page... the posts from me...

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1007179&page=2

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[BMWbill]

Just adding a post here to warn others to stay away from Invishitch or whatever company they call themselves this month. I've seen them change their name 3 times since I bought one back in 2014 for my F31 wagon. First, the metal is too thin where it mounts to the internal bumper. I bent mine downward using a bike mount trailer hitch. Second, the latching hardware has many moving parts, including a key lock. Under your car. Covered or not, if you use your car in winter on salted roads, or if you dip your hitch into salt water while launching a jetski, just once, your hitch will corrode and seize to work. I spent $700 on mine back in 2014, and I replaced the hitch 3 times before tossing it in the garbage. I replaced it with a much thicker Curt hitch for $115, that will last forever.

[eugene89us]

I am in a warm climate zone with at most 1 snow day a year (none this winter), I have had no issues with corrosion. And Stealth Hitch, as I understand, was a break off company from InvisiHitch. The latter used regular block that was prone to corrosion. Stealth Hitch switch to stainless steel for its block and looks very sturdy, I have zero corrosion and we get plenty of rain here. As a matter of fact, I lost my hitch plug and have been driving without one for last few years with no sign of corrosion. I do know the InvisiHitch with non-stainless attachment block had its issues, but I don't think Stealth has the same problem. Unfortunately, they keep raising their prices each year, I am glad I got mine a bit more reasonably.

[sspade]

Curt for the win!

It may not hide for you but it also wont fail either.

[therealm3]

I have the stealth hitch and it's perfect for my needs. Was not difficult to install. Hardest part was trimming the heat shield to fit right without taking too much material off.

[Danddd]

I had a Curt hitch on my E91, went with Invisihitch on my '16 F31. It becomes more difficult for the hitch attachment on the Invisihitch as it rusts internally in this Chicago weather. Next time, just going for the simplicity of the Curt hitch. That being said, the stealth hitch is stainless steel where it matters and lessens the corrosion.