[2JPW]

Originally Posted by Zippee

This pretty much covers it. Teng 1/2 drive 17inch flexible handle, Laser plastic protected socket and a Milwaukee M12 1/2 impact driver and a Teng 40-200Nm torque (wheels are 140Nm/17mm).

huge tool envy now

[indigochim]

Originally Posted by MarkG_M3CP

Bases on a suggestion from Tengocity I bought an impact driver. It's so much easier and less strain.

What adaptor did you get from the impact driver to 3/8" or 1/2" for your sockets? After your suggestion I was just looking on screwfix and the ones they sell say

"Specifically designed for use with an impact driver in high torque applications."

But then say "Socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm."

My Impact driver is rated at >250Nm

[RoShambolt]

Originally Posted by Zippee

This pretty much covers it. Teng 1/2 drive 17inch flexible handle, Laser plastic protected socket and a Milwaukee M12 1/2 impact driver and a Teng 40-200Nm torque (wheels are 140Nm/17mm).

Nice set up.

[kwak24]

Originally Posted by indigochim

What adaptor did you get from the impact driver to 3/8" or 1/2" for your sockets? After your suggestion I was just looking on screwfix and the ones they sell say

"Specifically designed for use with an impact driver in high torque applications."

But then say "Socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm."

My Impact driver is rated at >250Nm

Good advice by mark but a bit of confusing terminology I think.

Do not buy what is pictured which is indeed an impact driver. That is basically a powered screwdriver used by mainly joiners, diy enthusiasts etc.

What your after is an impact wrench. These come in various flavours depending on the torque required. You'd have to check the figures as you might get away with a 3/8" drive gun but most would use a half inch drive for use on wheel bolts.

Again best practice is to use a breaker bar like the one pictured to crack the bolts first as a powerful gun could easily round the bolts if the socket slipped. Never use a gun on the security bolt as easily damaged.

[Craig-SM]

All those buying torque guns, what else do you use them for other than your wheels?

[kzg1969]

only thing i would add is NOT to use torque wrench for removing. You will damage it.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Craig-SM

All those buying torque guns, what else do you use them for other than your wheels?

Personally I think buying an impact wrench is overkill, for 'just' changing wheels a couple of times a year.

As we are only spinning bolts 'off and on' with a power tool, a decent battery screwdriver/drill will do that job very well, with a 1/4" hex' to 1/2" socket adapter bought for a couple of quid.

I use a breaker bar and sleeved socket to loosen, a Dewalt screwdriver to do the tedious bits, torque wrench to finish the tightening.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by kzg1969

only thing i would add is NOT to use torque wrench for removing. You will damage it.

Agree... bad workshop practice to use a torque wrench to loosen anything.

[Russbmw]

Can't seriously believe people are considering buying a powered hand tool to save 10 secs tops per bolt, to spin it out by hand (well, using the socket and maybe an extension if you find it easier to grip).

I'd much rather do it by hand, you have much better control of the bolt on its way out and less chance of damaging the wheel.... Which I thought was the concern in the first place?

[kitster]

Originally Posted by MarkG_M3CP

Bases on a suggestion from Tengocity I bought an impact driver. It's so much easier and less strain.

Attachment 1926200

Then just torque with a regular torque wrench.

Those telescopic wrenches are pants and risk damage to the wheel as then can slip sideways.

I also bought one of these - but I've never needed it!

Attachment 1926201

I've rounded two security bolt adapters using those bent telescopic bars, really shite cos you ended up turning at a slight angle. So I brought the Ryobi Impact Wrench, not the driver (as per your image). So far not had any issues.

[Russbmw]

Originally Posted by kitster

I've rounded two security bolt adapters using those bent telescopic bars, really shite cos you ended up turning at a slight angle. So I brought the Ryobi Impact Wrench, not the driver (as per your image). So far not had any issues.

I've never had an issue with my "bent telescopic bar" and have had it for several years and used it on many cars.

I do hear what you are saying about the angle and socket slipping (to prevent that, you simply have one hand at the pivot point whilst the other is at the handle end) , but ironically, the only time you're likely to fuck bolts up when manually undoing them with any kind of bar and socket, especially the security ones, is when they've been utterly overtightened with a rattle gun / impact wrench.

This is because they've been done so tight, you have to have both hands yanking on the end of the bar (or worse still, jump on the end of the bar!) in a desperate attempt to undo the bloody thing. So without any support by the wheel bolt end to keep the socket square on and fully sat home on the bolt head, yes, the socket is likely to come off and damage the nut or wheel.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Craig-SM

Bolts should be dry but I’d still apply a bit of copper grease on the mating surface. I’ve had a dry wheel bond to the hub on a Mini R56. With the bolts lose and dropping the jack it wouldn’t break free nor rocking the steering side to side or dropping down off curbs. In the end it had to be put on ramps and the wheel beaten off with hammers. This resulted in the wheel requiring a lot of weigh to balance it and the bearing failed within a year too.

Defining the parts to grease is the key thing.

Limit any greasing to the hub location spigot, which is fine, (that stops the seizing), but do not grease the wheel or hub clamping faces.

[Russbmw]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Defining the parts to grease is the key thing.

Limit any greasing to the hub location spigot, which is fine, (that stops the seizing), but do not grease the wheel or hub clamping faces.

Absolutely, and if the wheel was that hard to get off, clean the mating spigot face/circumference with a wire brush first.

[kitster]

I ended up just replacing the alloys with regular bolts....touch wood they are still on the car. I did buy a replacement set of security bolts with the older patterns, rather than the newer wobbly looking ones.

I spoken to my local dealer, they said the 14x1.25 bolt will fit the G3x cars, so I'll save them for that.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by kwak24

Never use a gun on the security bolt as easily damaged.

I'll add another tip. It is best practice to go around the car and loosen all security bolts before you even attempt to jack/change any wheels. Ensure all security bolts can be eased off. You then know you are set to go...

A 450mm breaker bar with one hand at the socket, one hand gently pushing down, (at 9 o'clock), should easily loosen a security bolt if not over tightened. 140Nm is not a high load.

[Zippee]

Originally Posted by Russbmw

Can't seriously believe people are considering buying a powered hand tool to save 10 secs tops per bolt, to spin it out by hand (well, using the socket and maybe an extension if you find it easier to grip).

I'd much rather do it by hand, you have much better control of the bolt on its way out and less chance of damaging the wheel.... Which I thought was the concern in the first place?

But having an impact wrench makes you feel like an F1 pit crew

I can't believe for a minute, as a chap, you are dismissing the purchase of a power tool???

[Tengocity]

Originally Posted by Zippee

But having an impact wrench makes you feel like an F1 pit crew

I can't believe for a minute, as a chap, you are dismissing the purchase of a power tool???

Saves quite a few minutes, especially when you've got a couple of cars to do each winter and spring. And my back thanks me too!

[Tengocity]

I totally get why folk would want to do it by hand, but really I can't be arsed. I've taken my wheels off and on umpteen times for winter, swapping to my track day tyres, playing around with spacers etc. I'm careful, and have a set routine which I stick with, so it's security bolts off first by hand, then setting 3 on my de Walt for removal. Takes a few seconds.

Then I'll do each bolt up slowly on setting 1, then finish off by hand, and then use the torque wrench.

However, the best tool I have is a professional quality SGS low profile jack. So smooth, quick and powerful, and utterly rock solid. It's big and hefty so you need a bit of space and garage to roll it in and out of, but well worth it.

[MarkG_M5Comp]

Originally Posted by indigochim

What adaptor did you get from the impact driver to 3/8" or 1/2" for your sockets? After your suggestion I was just looking on screwfix and the ones they sell say

"Specifically designed for use with an impact driver in high torque applications."

But then say "Socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm."

My Impact driver is rated at >250Nm

The tool I bought came with a 1/2" adapter. I then have a couple of plastic covered sockets.

Originally Posted by kwak24

Good advice by mark but a bit of confusing terminology I think.

Do not buy what is pictured which is indeed an impact driver. That is basically a powered screwdriver used by mainly joiners, diy enthusiasts etc.

What your after is an impact wrench. These come in various flavours depending on the torque required. You'd have to check the figures as you might get away with a 3/8" drive gun but most would use a half inch drive for use on wheel bolts.

Again best practice is to use a breaker bar like the one pictured to crack the bolts first as a powerful gun could easily round the bolts if the socket slipped. Never use a gun on the security bolt as easily damaged.

Oops - library pic, sorry! I should have checked closer

Originally Posted by Craig-SM

All those buying torque guns, what else do you use them for other than your wheels?

Nothing. Hence I bought the Ryobi one - I have batteries for strimmer and other things so it make sense. £50 odd I think.

I also removed the wheels more than a few times a year to keep the spacers moving - learned that lesson from leaving them on the 335 for 2 years!

Zippee - have those tools ever been used though?

[Zippee]

Originally Posted by Tengocity

Saves quite a few minutes, especially when you've got a couple of cars to do each winter and spring. And my back thanks me too!

Yes exactly. Had to pull my front two wheels off the 435D yesterday to remove LED fogs back to standard (pick up the M4 on Monday!). Quick break with the 17inch bar, whizz, rattle and off in seconds and in complete safety with the plastic 17mm. Back on again, hand fed then whizz, rattle and torqued to 140nm. Tie that with a nice little Makita power driver to remove the 9 or so 8mm retainers on each of the forward wheel liners and the job was simple as opposed to a bit tiresome (dull) doing it all manually. Plus its power tools

[Zippee]

Originally Posted by MarkG_M3CP

Zippee - have those tools ever been used though?

Yes! Although I'll be honest, I corralled all my tools recently as they were spread across four winds and decided to splash out on a couple of new chests and complete my kit. 3x Torque wrenches (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 covering everything up to 200Nm). My original Britool torque last saw action against a set of Alfa 33 Sportwagon wheels back in the mid 90s so its now retired. Furnished with a full set of Teng 1/2inch sockets to go with some Halfords Advanced 1/4 and 3/8, ratchets from 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 and a lovely set of De Walt screw drivers (as well as the great Makita bit set as recommended by Watsey ). All in time to receive the M4. Couldn't possibly expose that to some of my old 'Bodge it & Scarper' tools plus Im not sure there are many Whitworth or AF fixings on BMWs?

[meatballs]

My t bar didn't survive the seriously overtightened fronts after performing gallantly on the rears:



Had to resort to the torque wrench which I didn't want to do but whacked it up to 192Nm beforehand so shouldnt cause too much problems.

Maybe I shouldn't buy cheap Chinese stuff from Amazon 🤣