[sspade]

Originally Posted by mike_MAN

My car (2015 x3) has 39k miles on it. I have no symptoms as of yet, but to avoid the sudden engine failure, my plan is to call the dealership and complain about a whining noise and rattle at startup from the engine and also telling them I know that there is a flaw with the timing chain on these engines.
My hope is that I can bring the car in and have them fix the timing chain just as F30lolz has mentioned, without any symptoms.
If I get denied I keep trying with other dealers until I can get them to do it under warranty.
Has anybody else tried this method?
I'm wondering if I get denied, will I be charge with a diagnostics fee?

So sickening that BMW won't stand behind their cars and fix this issue.

Yes, if your car enters the service bay and a tech spends time diagnosing the car... you will be charged the hourly labor rate.

If they find a warrantee-able issue, you wont have to worry about it. But based on your comments thats unlikely to be the case.

[ntalekt]

Happened to my 2012 328i n20 with 83k miles right before new years. Mechanic says the cam journals are damaged along with the cams. Timing chain failed which broke the guides which blocked the oil which caused a bunch more damage. Cheaper to replace with similar mileage used n20 which is around $9-10k.

So right now I'm not sure what to do. I know that I don't want to put $10k cash into a car that's worth somewhere around that much.

Do I need to be in the class action law suit to realize the benefits of the outcome? For instance if I scrap the car and take the loss could BMW pay me back as part of the settlement? Would I need to contact an attorney to be part of the suit?

I'm just at a loss. My car was well maintained and in good condition. But now I'm talking about giving it to my mechanic so I don't have to pay his labor of pulling apart the engine!?!? I'm in shock.

TIA

[doyler]

Originally Posted by sspade

Yes, if your car enters the service bay and a tech spends time diagnosing the car... you will be charged the hourly labor rate.

If they find a warrantee-able issue, you wont have to worry about it. But based on your comments thats unlikely to be the case.

I brought my car in about three weeks before the warranty expired to have them look into a possible oil leak an indy shop mentioned. They gave me a loaner while they diagnosed it, said they did not find a leak but cleaned the engine bay and applied a dye to certain areas, told me to drive it for a week or two and come back the week before it expired to see if the dye indicated any leaks. Brought it back the week it was expiring, gave me a loaner again, diagnosed it and confirmed there was no leak.

Dealership didn't charge me for anything either visit and I didn't even buy my car from them. Guess it's dealer dependent.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by doyler

I brought my car in about three weeks before the warranty expired to have them look into a possible oil leak an indy shop mentioned. They gave me a loaner while they diagnosed it, said they did not find a leak but cleaned the engine bay and applied a dye to certain areas, told me to drive it for a week or two and come back the week before it expired to see if the dye indicated any leaks. Brought it back the week it was expiring, gave me a loaner again, diagnosed it and confirmed there was no leak.

Dealership didn't charge me for anything either visit and I didn't even buy my car from them. Guess it's dealer dependent.

I do agree and believe that the End of Warranty check should be and is free or complimentary.

Its the middle of the road... nothings wrong but I want you to bring it in and check anyway... that will be charged at least an hours labor.

As it should in my opinion. They cant diagnose cars for free or their businesses would not survive.

[sspade]

@ntalekt

You need to take a deep breath before you make a bad decision.

If your mechanic is quoting 10k for a used motor with around 80k on it... you need to run.

Have the car towed to your driveway and reevaluate. Used motors are as cheap as $2500 depending on mileage, year and location.

Install should be well under $2k.

Im telling you that you can put a motor in your car for $5k on the lower end to $6-7k on the higher end (lower miles/newer year).

Pay your current mechanic the few hundred you owe him and tell him you are going to think about what to do next.

Paying him $10k or giving him your car are the two worst choices you could make, trust me!

[ntalekt]

Originally Posted by sspade

@ntalekt

You need to take a deep breath before you make a bad decision.

If your mechanic is quoting 10k for a used motor with around 80k on it... you need to run.

Have the car towed to your driveway and reevaluate. Used motors are as cheap as $2500 depending on mileage, year and location.

Install should be well under $2k.

Im telling you that you can put a motor in your car for $5k on the lower end to $6-7k on the higher end (lower miles/newer year).

Pay your current mechanic the few hundred you owe him and tell him you are going to think about what to do next.

Paying him $10k or giving him your car are the two worst choices you could make, trust me!

I agree that a used engine can be purchased for around $2500-$3500 depending on mileage and year. Then you might also need to factor in $1500 to replace the timing chain plus the labor to install the engine. It's not too far away from $10k. His final quote was actually $8300 and I'm sure he still has some wiggle room in there.

If I can walk away from the car now knowing that I might see a settlement from BMW in the future...why wouldn't I?

And the question still stands about being part of the class action suit.

Thanks.

[F30lolz]

Sooo, the used engine being installed in my 428 (got hydrolocked) has 87-89 k miles from a 2015 x1 28i. I’m still waiting for a VIN number to determine the built date (I’ll assume it’s prior to 03/2015). The engine will have a 1 year warranty and I still have Maxcare warranty as well. Right before they end I’ll have to have the TC/guides replaced, only this time it’ll be on my dime as I was fortunate to have it done prior to my engine being hydrolocked.

For the member who mentioned about bringing it in and having the same luck I did, try to schedule an oil change and mention to your SA about a whine/rattle. They shouldn’t charge you a diagnostic fee since it’s in for a oil change. Also, check your dealers website for oil change specials ($89 for N20’s near me) and also check if they have complimentary vehicle inspections as well so you won’t have to spend a penny.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by F30lolz

For the member who mentioned about bringing it in and having the same luck I did, try to schedule an oil change and mention to your SA about a whine/rattle. They shouldn't charge you a diagnostic fee since it's in for a oil change. Also, check your dealers website for oil change specials ($89 for N20's near me) and also check if they have complimentary vehicle inspections as well so you won't have to spend a penny.

+1

[sspade]

@ntalekt

You can get a used motor with well under 50k on it and revised timing chains for under $4k shipped. Dime a dozen.

Plus $1500 install.

Your at $5500 back on the road. Your guy wants $8300. You need a new guy or stay away from the truth that you find on this forum.

I would not pay more than $6500 tops. And thats a bit high.

Depending on your financial situation it could be silly to start over for this kind of money. You'll end up in a go kart unless you are willing to take a bath. Happens all the time to a lot of people, wouldnt be the end of the world.

Just trying to help point out some options before you make a decision. Keep us posted on what you do...

As for the lawsuit, Im interested to hear the answer to your question also. Hope someone who knows chimes in.

[Pauloxxi]

Was the time chain issue effectively solved on most recent models years N20, such as 2015 and up?
What are the differences?
Was the plastic material modified to get more oil & temperature resistance?
I wonder if the number of cases on models after 2015 has significantly reduced giving me assurance to buy a 2016 CPO?
Any thoughts?

[eddymerckx3]

Originally Posted by pauloxxi

Was the time chain issue effectively solved on most recent models years N20, such as 2015 and up?
What are the differences?
Was the plastic material modified to get more oil & temperature resistance?
I wonder if the number of cases on models after 2015 has significantly reduced giving me assurance to buy a 2016 CPO?
Any thoughts?

READ, READ, READ....seriously, u r posting a question on perhaps the most extensive thread specific to the question u r asking. Start on Pg 1 and engage in some basic due diligence on info already provided on this thread, not to mention many other threads on this forum.

[MattyBeams]

I saw in a different thread that sludge and the Start/Stop are the main culprit - warming ur car up, 5000-6000 mile oil changes, and coding out or keeping Start/Stop are going to be the biggest helps you can do prior to warning signs.

[Pauloxxi]

Originally Posted by eddymerckx3

READ, READ, READ....seriously, u r posting a question on perhaps the most extensive thread specific to the question u r asking. Start on Pg 1 and engage in some basic due diligence on info already provided on this thread, not to mention many other threads on this forum.

You are being inconvenient and rude. I already read and didn’t find. This is the reason I asked. In fact that’s why I don’t have as many posts here. Tell me where it is mentioned what changed on the plastic rails? Tell me where 2015 are significantly lower number of cases.
If you are really a smart ass, then provide links as many do around here.
In my view, if you have nothing to answer, beyond telling someone to read, then you better ignore the others post.
The search engine here is not the best.
Go mind your business!

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by pauloxxi

Was the time chain issue effectively solved on most recent models years N20, such as 2015 and up?
What are the differences?
Was the plastic material modified to get more oil & temperature resistance?
I wonder if the number of cases on models after 2015 has significantly reduced giving me assurance to buy a 2016 CPO?
Any thoughts?

Built dates of 03/2015 and newer will have the updated parts.

[Pauloxxi]

Originally Posted by F30lolz

Built dates of 03/2015 and newer will have the updated parts.

Yes! I know that. My question is if the new parts constitute an effective solution.
From 2015 the issue dropped significantly to none?
Does anybody know what changed in the plastic rails for the time chain?
Funny is that another guy told me to read, like the answer was obvious.

[floridaorange]

Originally Posted by sspade

.
Plus $1500 install.

It's a 20+ hour job + fluids + gaskets. $1500 install is probably a little light.

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by sjbender

It was tricky to find, the case number is 2:2017cv07386

It is the case being held in NJ. GELIS vs BAYERISCHE MOTOREN WERKE

Just saw this, but found the case. I'm able to download all of the actual court documents (original compliant, summons, orders, etc.) if anyone would like. They're big files so I'll need to figure out how to link them...

Just let me know.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by MattyBeams

I saw in a different thread that sludge and the Start/Stop are the main culprit - warming ur car up, 5000-6000 mile oil changes, and coding out or keeping Start/Stop are going to be the biggest helps you can do prior to warning signs.

This is all just speculation on the forums. There are some who posted saying they did 5-6 OCIs and didn't use start/stop, yet their timing chains whined/failed. No one knows for sure what caused the old parts to fail and what changed in the new parts. That is the bottom line despite hundreds of posts on this topic. It is a coin toss...if your engine exhibits the whine, get it addressed. If it doesn't, keep on driving on.

[jsouth]

Originally Posted by pauloxxi

Yes! I know that. My question is if the new parts constitute an effective solution.
From 2015 the issue dropped significantly to none?
Does anybody know what changed in the plastic rails for the time chain?
Funny is that another guy told me to read, like the answer was obvious.

The chain is a different design. Pictures are out there of old vs. new. The problem does not exist after the redesign.

[goldenmug8]

If your timing chain fails while driving, is braking ability affected? If I'm going 70mph am I going to be able to stop...

[Pauloxxi]

Originally Posted by goldenmug8

If your timing chain fails while driving, is braking ability affected? If I'm going 70mph am I going to be able to stop...

Sure you can brake. Your engine however is toasted, trashed!

[F30lolz]

Man everyday I’m beating myself with a drum about my engine getting hydrolocked AFTER getting the dealer doing this job for me. Before my warranties expire I’ll spend the $2k and have an indy do the job on my replacement engine (assuming it was built prior to 03/2015).

And still don’t have my car back. Maybe another week or two