[Shadysu]

Hey guys,

So after I got my PS2 installed I've been having this issue, its not a huge issue but an annoying one

I'll turn on my car, go to a store park my car and turn it off, come back two minutes later and theres a 50/50 chance the car won't build boost, 0.9 PSI. and I'll have to constantly restart my car till it builds boost

The issue is, no engine codes, no CEL, I try reflashing as well too,

When the car is building boost, I can keep driving no issues at all, till I restart it.

I've tried using my OTS map and Custom, with and without meth. I'm not too sure what to do

I've replaced my charge pipe in the process too as the clamps broke off for my old one, so I thought that could be it.

[thejeremyman9]

The most likely explanation would be your WG actuator is sticking or otherwise not responding in the situations where its not building boost. A datalog when the issue occurs should confirm that.

[Shadysu]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

The most likely explanation would be your WG actuator is sticking or otherwise not responding in the situations where its not building boost. A datalog when the issue occurs should confirm that.

Here is a log I was able to do real quick before I got home

https://datazap.me/u/f30shady/log-16...0&data=3-12-13

went into limp after I filled up aha

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Shadysu

Here is a log I was able to do real quick before I got home

https://datazap.me/u/f30shady/log-16...0&data=3-12-13

went into limp after I filled up aha

Well you can see boost and load target go up but actual boost/load does not follow. WGDC stays at 100% during this time which is strange. I don't think there any way you can have an intermittent airleak that randomly comes after come starts then goes away on its own... so my guess is either a tuning issue or a hardware issue with the WG or maybe even DV.

What did your tuner say?

[n55david]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Well you can see boost and load target go up but actual boost/load does not follow. WGDC stays at 100% during this time which is strange. I don't think there any way you can have an intermittent airleak that randomly comes after come starts then goes away on its own... so my guess is either a tuning issue or a hardware issue with the WG or maybe even DV.

What did your tuner say?

sure boost leaks can be fixed with heat expansion but something that bad is very unlikely..

man you gotta talk to your tuner.

[thejeremyman9]

Does it SOUND any different (like leaking/rushing air) when it doesnt make boost?

[Shadysu]

Yeah my tuner and I are working on it waiting for him to get back to me today,


It sounds very different, I can tell right away with a light throttle as you can hear no spool or turbo noises at all, and takes awhile to even get it moving,

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Shadysu

Yeah my tuner and I are working on it waiting for him to get back to me today,


It sounds very different, I can tell right away with a light throttle as you can hear no spool or turbo noises at all, and takes awhile to even get it moving,

That to me implies the WG is fully open, not fully closed as the log suggests...If it was fully closed and not making boost you would hear a massive amount of air noise. Interested to hear what your tuner says. Did you check for any codes?

[Shadysu]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

That to me implies the WG is fully open, not fully closed as the log suggests...If it was fully closed and not making boost you would hear a massive amount of air noise. Interested to hear what your tuner says. Did you check for any codes?

Awaiting a reply from my tuner.

No codes No engine light.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Shadysu

Awaiting a reply from my tuner.

No codes No engine light.

It went into limp mode with no codes?

[n55david]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

It went into limp mode with no codes?

I had that happen once..

I was racing an m5 and I launched hard but forgot I had traction control on lol. car freaked out, I went into limp mode, had no engine codes. it went away on its own before I could stop and restart.

[LA1Z24]

You need Ista or some other bi directional scan tool to command the waste gate solenoid open and closed while watching to see if the position sensor is working correctly.

[Shadysu]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

You need Ista or some other bi directional scan tool to command the waste gate solenoid open and closed while watching to see if the position sensor is working correctly.

Is there any info available I can read up on this? I can't seem to find much info on this.

I'm trying to borrow a laptop with windows to use ISTA, but don't know much about this problem at all and it's been driving me crazy for the last 5 months lol

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by Shadysu

Is there any info available I can read up on this? I can't seem to find much info on this.

I'm trying to borrow a laptop with windows to use ISTA, but don't know much about this problem at all and it's been driving me crazy for the last 5 months lol

ISTA says this...


Shorten adjustment travel (-).
Increase adjustment travel (+).
To ensure a reliable setting of the adjustment travel, both adjusting nuts must be marked with a coloured mark.
One full turn of the adjusting nut (2) corresponds to an adjustment travel of 0.75 mm.
Example 1: Actual value measured by the diagnostic function: 0.75 mm.
Required correction: +0.75 mm divided by 0.75 mm= +1.0 revolutions.
To correct the linkage setting, adjust the nut (1) in the plus (+) direction by 1.0 revolution and then reset the nut (2) and secure it with 6.6 Nm.
Example 2: Actual value measured by the diagnostic function: -1.5 mm.
Required correction: -1.5 mm divided by 0.75 mm= -2.0 revolutions.
To correct the linkage setting, adjust the nut (2) in the negative (-) direction by 2.0 revolutions and then reset the nut (1) and secure it with 6.6 Nm.
Check basic setting again with the diagnosis system.


So it sounds like you use ISTA to see how much free play is in the wastegate system, then manually adjust the linkage on your previous findings.

[Shadysu]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

ISTA says this...


Shorten adjustment travel (-).
Increase adjustment travel (+).
To ensure a reliable setting of the adjustment travel, both adjusting nuts must be marked with a coloured mark.
One full turn of the adjusting nut (2) corresponds to an adjustment travel of 0.75 mm.
Example 1: Actual value measured by the diagnostic function: 0.75 mm.
Required correction: +0.75 mm divided by 0.75 mm= +1.0 revolutions.
To correct the linkage setting, adjust the nut (1) in the plus (+) direction by 1.0 revolution and then reset the nut (2) and secure it with 6.6 Nm.
Example 2: Actual value measured by the diagnostic function: -1.5 mm.
Required correction: -1.5 mm divided by 0.75 mm= -2.0 revolutions.
To correct the linkage setting, adjust the nut (2) in the negative (-) direction by 2.0 revolutions and then reset the nut (1) and secure it with 6.6 Nm.
Check basic setting again with the diagnosis system.


So it sounds like you use ISTA to see how much free play is in the wastegate system, then manually adjust the linkage on your previous findings.

Ah okay I understand now, I'm gonna search around my area to see if anyone would be able to do this for me.

[Shadysu]

Hey all, I got it fixed finally, had my shop run it through ISTA

This is what came up, they adjusted it accordingly, haven't had a single limp mode since,


Thanks all for the advice and help

[Shadysu]

Originally Posted by Shadysu

Hey all, I got it fixed finally, had my shop run it through ISTA

This is what came up, they adjusted it accordingly, haven't had a single limp mode since,


Thanks all for the advice and help

Whoops, attached here