[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Have any of you with rattle noises raised the idle to 900 RPM? That's what folks do on the E Series platform to minimize noise.

[Pray for Mojo]

Originally Posted by geo335

Hello guys

f30 335i 2013 6MT 68k miles on it

upgraded chargepipe, bms intake MHD stg1
It was good, we did mhd stg2
Run 2 weeks and clutch started slipping, flywheel had 5-10% down in middle then outta circle


I repaired clutch and stocked car back now it goes normal


Im planning to go up again

Please tell me how can i upgrade it to ride 400whp+ ?
Give me some cheap variants please. Im outside USA


Also my car after getting back to stock has some missfires

on cold start from seconds to minute it has missfires on random cylindres, if i press gas pedal it may hit so hard it can shut down. but after its done after it car runs without problem. coils good sparks good tmap map sensors good.

I replaced spark plugs to bosch, all diagnostics run good nothing wrong.

I read on forum someone had exactly same problem and said that battery fixed it. sounds weird but ...

Also

Bad flywheel will cause misfires. People that switch to a non-OEM flywheel have reported misfires.

[MineralF30]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Have any of you with rattle noises raised the idle to 900 RPM? That's what folks do on the E Series platform to minimize noise.

MHD doesn't offer a raise idle option for F series sadly. Only way is to probably have a custom tuner raise it.

[btetier]

This never really got mentioned here, so just in case it wasn't known by now, there is a way to do a CDV delete that allows us (F3x) owners to do hard shifts at lower gears without the car slipping the clutch. It is actually a fairly easy job to do as long as you have the right size socket, a long extension, and a car jack. Took me about an hour my first time, and most of that was honestly just bleeding the clutch. There have been a few write ups here on this forum about how to do it, but if you have any questions i will be happy to answer them!

[ryantpayton]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Well the worse it gets, the more it will impact lower gears. A slipping clutch is pretty distinct... If your RPM shoots up disproportionately to speed gain, you are either spinning or the clutch is slipping. There is also a distinct odor when you slip a clutch a lot.

Miles on the car? Mods/tune?

Hey, thanks for the reply.

I'm thinking more and more it's a slipping clutch.

It's a 2013 335i xDrive (N55 F30)
It has ~110k miles on it
New transmission from BMW at ~80k miles
ER Chargepipe, ER 4" Catless Downpipe and the MHD Stage 2 Tune.

What is my best option for getting the clutch to stop slipping?
OEM Clutch or a Spec? If so, do you have a good link? I googled it but it says it only fits older years. Is it compatible still?

Also I plan on getting an upgraded FMIC and a Pure Turbo

Thanks!

[DreamerJoe]

Originally Posted by ryantpayton

Hey, thanks for the reply.

I'm thinking more and more it's a slipping clutch.

It's a 2013 335i xDrive (N55 F30)
It has ~110k miles on it
New transmission from BMW at ~80k miles
ER Chargepipe, ER 4" Catless Downpipe and the MHD Stage 2 Tune.

What is my best option for getting the clutch to stop slipping?
OEM Clutch or a Spec? If so, do you have a good link? I googled it but it says it only fits older years. Is it compatible still?

Also I plan on getting an upgraded FMIC and a Pure Turbo

Thanks!

search FCPeuro.com, the 335is/550i clutch seems holds up well to FBO and even the guys with PS2.. if your going beyond that, high e85 blend/P.I. you might want to go on the safe side and get the spec.. and for your flywheel, before jumping on a lightweight, look into flywheel chatter.. alot of guys say it's manageable, but personally I'm sticking with the DMFW when the time comes.

[ryantpayton]

Originally Posted by DreamerJoe

search FCPeuro.com, the 335is/550i clutch seems holds up well to FBO and even the guys with PS2.. if your going beyond that, high e85 blend/P.I. you might want to go on the safe side and get the spec.. and for your flywheel, before jumping on a lightweight, look into flywheel chatter.. alot of guys say it's manageable, but personally I'm sticking with the DMFW when the time comes.

I don't think I want to do anything like e85 blend/P.I.
Just simple FBO with maybe a stage 1 Pure Turbo.

Would the stock flywheel be okay with that setup and an upgraded clutch from fcpeuro?

EDIT: All I see available for my car on FCPeuro.com is the Genuine BMW and LuK

[DreamerJoe]

Originally Posted by ryantpayton

I don't think I want to do anything like e85 blend/P.I.
Just simple FBO with maybe a stage 1 Pure Turbo.

Would the stock flywheel be okay with that setup and an upgraded clutch from fcpeuro?

EDIT: All I see available for my car on FCPeuro.com is the Genuine BMW and LuK

you would just search for the clutch for the 335is/550i. I'm not 100% sure of the difference between the LUK and genuine bmw, if it's really a different brand, or OE before getting the genuine bmw stamp+tax. and as far as the flywheel, someone else will have to chime in, not sure if it's something that can be resurfaced, needs replacement, or keeping original is fine.

[Chicken_Joe]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Have any of you with rattle noises raised the idle to 900 RPM? That's what folks do on the E Series platform to minimize noise.

I haven't raised it sadly yet. I wish I could do that with BM3 from my laptop but sadly I don't know how/think it's available to do

[Pray for Mojo]

Originally Posted by Chicken_Joe

I haven't raised it sadly yet. I wish I could do that with BM3 from my laptop but sadly I don't know how/think it's available to do

You can do it on map config, top right corner of the map details, make changes and save, then reflash the car.

[BMW DIY Guy]

I am desperately trying to figure out if my 6MT is slipping as well, while chasing a weird gremlin in the car for almost a year now.

I am 419rwp 425torque, FBO and custom tune. If I go WOT in 4th, I randomly (75% of the time) get this weird run up, stutter, hesitation or something in the car under load. The logs show the "torque limiter" kicking in when that happens.

I have been trying to figure out what it is and working with my tuner extensively, and exploring all options including now wondering if its the clutch slipping.

If going the 550 clutch route, is this the one folks are talking about from FCP Euro?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...it-21207567623

[codestar]

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

I am desperately trying to figure out if my 6MT is slipping as well, while chasing a weird gremlin in the car for almost a year now.

I am 419rwp 425torque, FBO and custom tune. If I go WOT in 4th, I randomly (75% of the time) get this weird run up, stutter, hesitation or something in the car under load. The logs show the "torque limiter" kicking in when that happens.

I have been trying to figure out what it is and working with my tuner extensively, and exploring all options including now wondering if its the clutch slipping.

If going the 550 clutch route, is this the one folks are talking about from FCP Euro?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...it-21207567623

I had very similar symptoms when it first began slipping. mostly 3rd and 4th, felt like a stutter. I posted on here a few times about it. Then I tried a couple hard launches when messing around with friends that caused it to slip really bad because of the cdv and that's pretty much what toasted the clutch.

I bought a spec stage 2+ with an OEM style LuK DMF and also a new slave cylinder and removed the CDV. Been running great lately. Clutch woes have completely disappeared and now I'm feeling the need for more power again

[codestar]

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

I am desperately trying to figure out if my 6MT is slipping as well, while chasing a weird gremlin in the car for almost a year now.

I am 419rwp 425torque, FBO and custom tune. If I go WOT in 4th, I randomly (75% of the time) get this weird run up, stutter, hesitation or something in the car under load. The logs show the "torque limiter" kicking in when that happens.

I have been trying to figure out what it is and working with my tuner extensively, and exploring all options including now wondering if its the clutch slipping.

If going the 550 clutch route, is this the one folks are talking about from FCP Euro?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...it-21207567623

An older post I made about the problem in another thread:

Originally Posted by codestar

So it seems the problems continue...

My turbo has felt like it is hitching and stuttering under medium to heavy thottle in the 2500-4000rpm range, and recently it has been getting worse. It's honestly starting to feel like my clutch is slipping and the computer cuts engine power and then it keeps going afterwards like nothing happened to redline

I've been going back and forth with PTF and all I have been told so far is that I have bad octane. I recently switched from Chev 94 (which I have been told by others is also bad) to Shell 91 (which others have said was the best around Vancouver). So even with Shell 91 it seems that my area's gas is bad so I'm not sure what to do other than octane booster??

Also not sure how slippage/turbo stutter relates to octane or how you tell this from the log. The problem is present on stage 2, stage 1, 6.3, 6.4, 0+, etc.. Anyway if anyone may have some insight on this I'd totally appreciate it!

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5d3f49a6c090c646a589589e

[harkes]

Originally Posted by ryantpayton

Hey, thanks for the reply.

I'm thinking more and more it's a slipping clutch.

It's a 2013 335i xDrive (N55 F30)
It has ~110k miles on it
New transmission from BMW at ~80k miles
ER Chargepipe, ER 4" Catless Downpipe and the MHD Stage 2 Tune.

What is my best option for getting the clutch to stop slipping?
OEM Clutch or a Spec? If so, do you have a good link? I googled it but it says it only fits older years. Is it compatible still?

Also I plan on getting an upgraded FMIC and a Pure Turbo

Thanks!

Have you tried to run the Stage1 map to validate if it is clutch slippage?

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Bmw doubles

The CDV is 100% the culprit. Its sole purpose is to force slipping to occur for smooth engagement regardless of driver style. That was BMW's advancement to manual driving. I'm surprised that E90, or any F series owners have not made this break through and even more so that BMS or others haven't brought this to the market.

Even if you modded it with a stock clutch you win.

very interested in this..

[JaredG_F30]

I can't find it now, but I read on here recently of someone who swapped out the stock slave cylinder with another BMW OEM slave cylinder that doesn't have the integrated CDV and it's a direct swap. I need to find that thread again because when it's time for a new clutch I'm deleting the CDV as well. I hate it!!

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

I can't find it now, but I read on here recently of someone who swapped out the stock slave cylinder with another BMW OEM slave cylinder that doesn't have the integrated CDV and it's a direct swap. I need to find that thread again because when it's time for a new clutch I'm deleting the CDV as well. I hate it!!

Here you go.. looking at doing this myself.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1666477

[codestar]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

I can't find it now, but I read on here recently of someone who swapped out the stock slave cylinder with another BMW OEM slave cylinder that doesn't have the integrated CDV and it's a direct swap. I need to find that thread again because when it's time for a new clutch I'm deleting the CDV as well. I hate it!!

I bought a new slave from BMW as well. Just popped off the little plastic nipple and you can plainly see the little metal piece that restricts fluid flow inside.

When the mechanic had my transmission dropped to replace the clutch and flywheel I just handed it to them to do the swap since it's located on the side of the trans. They didn't have a problem doing it since all of the lines were already disconnected anyway and did not charge me

[BMW DIY Guy]

I see a couple of options here for oem to upgrades, in general

1. Stock F3X clutch and DMFW (seems not a good to replace like for like with tuned cars)
2. 550 OEM clutch and DMFW (feels the go to plan, but rated to 500hp? high end tuned are close to this, I am close to this)
3. Spec clutch (stage whatever) and F3X DMFW (would the DMFW be a weak point?)
4. Spec clutch and 550 DMFW? (would this best option for stronger oem DMFW?)
5. Spec clutch and Spec DMFW? (higher performance but hear clearly there are chatter, noise or other less daily driver friendly changes)

[Bmw doubles]

I'm using a Spec 3 clutch and a SMF. I don't recommend the SMF as a daily. Sounds like marbles are in your transmission. You can silence the the chatter by depressing the clutch but it will prematurely wear out your throw out bearing. Look into 550 DMFW for street applications. The spec clutch is great.

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Bmw doubles

I'm using a Spec 3 clutch and a SMF. I don't recommend the SMF as a daily. Sounds like marbles are in your transmission. You can silence the the chatter by depressing the clutch but it will prematurely wear out your throw out bearing. Look into 550 DMFW for street applications. The spec clutch is great.

Very likely will pull the trigger today on the Spec2+ and OEM DMFW.

[DreamerJoe]

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

Very likely will pull the trigger today on the Spec2+ and OEM DMFW.

know when you're going to draw the line when it comes to modding, I recall reading a thread (several actually), that the DMFW will throw misfire codes in the higher HP applications.