[BimR]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

One strategy is to seek out insurance network shop that also does good work esp. on BMW's.

E.g. one CCRC(BMW's certified collision repair center) around here is actually insurance network shop too. You can enter your zip into bmwusa.com to find those CCRCs close to u.

In general SAs in network shops act directly as insurance adjusters, so their repair estimates are quickly approved. Finding a CCRC that is also part of your insurance's network would be ideal situation.

In your specific case, it is a judgement call to use an auto repair shop, or a body shop(e.g. CCRC and the like). E.g. if u are 100% sure that there is no other damage after teardown, then auto repair shop should be OK.

As far as pricing, dealer's $11k is per their high retail labor hours and marked up retail prices.

On the other hand, body shops that work with insurance have contracted labor rates that are considerably lower than dealer, and usually don't charge more than MSRP for genuine parts.

Obviously insurance is focused on reducing cost, and you would like to get best outcome, so there may be some work needed to reach the best compromise.

This is exactly correct. The auto body shop I use charges $50/hour labor as that's the Geico rate. Dealer body shop is 3x more. Even at retail parts, the savings come from labor costs.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by BimR

This is exactly correct. The auto body shop I use charges $50/hour labor as that's the Geico rate. Dealer body shop is 3x more. Even at retail parts, the savings come from labor costs.

Yeah local dealers also charge 3x.

[heifetz17]

Dealer labor rate doesn't matter. Insurance companies will only pay the prevailing market rate in the area. If the dealer is not willing to perform the work for that rate, the difference will come out of the customer's pocket.

Most body shops will not perform mechanical work and will just sublet this type of work to a mechanical shop or dealer anyway, unless it's a large MSO shop that has the equipment and capability to perform their own mechanical work and alignments.

Be careful of OEM certified shops and insurance network shops. Network shops negotiate discounts with insurance companies in exchange for referral work. OEM certified shops, similarly, will sometimes also cut corners or offer discounts in exchange for insurance referrals. I do post repair inspections all the time from OEM certified shops that perform non-approved repairs. A shop repair is much more likely to get inspected by the insurance company than by the manufacturer.

Choose your shop based on local consumer reviews, not by insurance or OEM recommendation.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

OEM certified shops, similarly, will sometimes also cut corners or offer discounts in exchange for insurance referrals. I do post repair inspections all the time from OEM certified shops that perform non-approved repairs. A shop repair is much more likely to get inspected by the insurance company than by the manufacturer.

My experience with local CCRCs has been positive, e.g. they have inhouse BMW techs for glass, engine, suspension, upholstery, and BMW approved framers, BMW ColorSystems, genuine BMW parts, etc, etc.

They also go by tight BMW processes, e.g. one friend got a quote from a reputable body shop to pull a rocker panel, but the CCRC foreman found out per spec the repair required aperture R&R, or else frame integrity couldn't be restored.

Having said that, it may be beneficial to show the shop that u know where/what to look for as signs of good/bad repairs to keep them honest.

[heifetz17]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

My experience with local CCRCs has been positive, e.g. they have inhouse BMW techs for glass, engine, suspension, upholstery, and BMW approved framers, BMW ColorSystems, genuine BMW parts, etc, etc.

They also go by tight BMW processes, e.g. one friend got a quote from a reputable body shop to pull a rocker panel, but the CCRC foreman found out per spec the repair required aperture R&R, or else frame integrity couldn't be restored.

Having said that, it may be beneficial to show the shop that u know where/what to look for as signs of good/bad repairs to keep them honest.

Great advice. For the most part the majority of certified shops will uphold the proper repair procedures, but on occasion being certified does not necessarily mean they do all the correct repairs. It's important to know what to look for or even possibly have a post repair inspection done.

[adilakif]

I just received the first communication from my adjuster. He says he will go and see the car tomorrow morning. Hopefully I will have an idea tomorrow if it's getting fixed or totaled.

[j2dad5389]

A total from the insurance company wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. That would be a nice payout check for you.

[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by adilakif

I just received the first communication from my adjuster. He says he will go and see the car tomorrow morning. Hopefully I will have an idea tomorrow if it's getting fixed or totaled.

Keep in mind if the adjuster wants to total the car you can challenge it. It’s not an absolute done deal.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Keep in mind if the adjuster wants to total the car you can challenge it. It’s not an absolute done deal.

My thinking is that adjuster's job is to minimize insurance payout, so it is unlikely adjuster will quickly total the car without ample evidence(e.g. further teardown).

[heifetz17]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Keep in mind if the adjuster wants to total the car you can challenge it. It’s not an absolute done deal.

This is true to a point. If the car has a large salvage bid on top of a large repair estimate it will total regardless if the owner wants it totaled or not. It may or may not be up for negotiation depending on the circumstances.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

This is true to a point. If the car has a large salvage bid on top of a large repair estimate it will total regardless if the owner wants it totaled or not. It may or may not be up for negotiation depending on the circumstances.

Yes, it depends on what are these 3 numbers.

ACV - salvage < repair cost

The adjuster already has rough ideas of ACV and salvage bid before heading out to inspect the car.

[heifetz17]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

The adjuster already has rough ideas of ACV and salvage bid before heading out to inspect the car.

This part is only true if they're inspecting it already assuming it's a potential total loss.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

This part is only true if they're inspecting it already assuming it's a potential total loss.

It is true that adjuster likely does not need that info in the first visit/inspection.

Having said that, my guess is that adjusters may be assigned to specific brands, hence well informed of up-to-date ACVs/salvage numbers given the volume of cases through their hands.

[adilakif]

GREAT NEWS! Geico approved the repair for $7k. BMW is ordering the parts today. BMW says Geico is shipping some of the parts to dealership so some parts will be used, I guess. I am still looking into the details. I just saw the documents in my Geico account. My insurance adjuster didn't call me yet. I am not sure how I wil pay the $2k deductible.

Also BMW says Geico refused to replace "wheel bearings". So I might have to go back.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by adilakif

GREAT NEWS! Geico approved the repair for $7k. BMW is ordering the parts today. BMW says Geico is shipping some of the parts to dealership so some parts will be used, I guess. I am still looking into the details. I just saw the documents in my Geico account. My insurance adjuster didn't call me yet. I am not sure how I wil pay the $2k deductible.

Also BMW says Geico refused to replace "wheel bearings". So I might have to go back.

Since insurance approved a $7k repair bill, the deductible of $2k will be paid by customer(to dealer) upon satisfactory repair, and insurance will pay the rest to dealer.

Some insurance may send $5k check to customer, but accepting the check is technically settling the claim. Also customer may unwisely spend that money before repair is done ....

[adilakif]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Since insurance approved a $7k repair bill, the deductible of $2k will be paid by customer(to dealer) upon satisfactory repair, and insurance will pay the rest to dealer.

Some insurance may send $5k check to customer, but accepting the check is technically settling the claim. Also customer may unwisely spend that money before repair is done ....

OK. Here we go.

I picked up my car few hours ago. Multiple noises coming from the front.

1- Coming from Left wheel (?): Noise starts slowly as car starts moving. Its tempo increases when I accelerate. Most audible when slowing down cruising below 20mph. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it. When it starts it keeps going until I fully stop. It may not start again right away. This rim was replaced with a used one provided by Geico. It looks much better than my other rims, almost brand new.(Video below - cricket sound)

2- Loud humming noise on highway. I am hoping its coming from what's causing the first noise.

3- Sound coming from front/underneath right before I completely stop. Knocks/clicks once or twice. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it.

4- When turning the Steering wheel. Grinding noise. (Video below) Gets louder in the second half of the video.

So, as you may remember Geico refused to replace wheel bearings despite BMW recommending it. At that time when I asked the adjuster, he said we can change it if it causes a problem. BMW claimed multiple times that they road tested the vehicle today to check if they hear any noises. I don't know how you can not hear them. I started hearing the noise number 3 before I even left the parking lot and others right after I got on the road.

I reported all of these issues to both BMW and Geico Adjuster. I am not sure if adjuster will respond. I will probably hear from BMW tomorrow.

[BimR]

Originally Posted by adilakif

OK. Here we go.

I picked up my car few hours ago. Multiple noises coming from the front.

1- Coming from Left wheel (?): Noise starts slowly as car starts moving. Its tempo increases when I accelerate. Most audible when slowing down cruising below 20mph. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it. When it starts it keeps going until I fully stop. It may not start again right away. This rim was replaced with a used one provided by Geico. It looks much better than my other rims, almost brand new.

2- Loud humming noise on highway. I am hoping its coming from what's causing the first noise.

3- Sound coming from front/underneath right before I completely stop. Knocks/clicks once or twice. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it.

4- When turning the Steering wheel. Grinding noise. (Video below) Gets louder in the second half of the video.

So, as you may remember Geico refused to replace wheel bearings despite BMW recommending it. At that time when I asked the adjuster, he said we can change it if it causes a problem. BMW claimed multiple times that they road tested the vehicle today to check if they hear any noises. I don't know how you can not hear them. I started hearing the noise number 3 before I even left the parking lot and others right after I got on the road.

I reported all of these issues to both BMW and Geico Adjuster. I am not sure if adjuster will respond. I will probably hear from BMW tomorrow.

It's too late to matter but - did you test drive it at the shop? Hope you didn't sign something saying "works fine" or anything like that.

[tturedraider]

That definitely doesn’t sound good. Definitely take it back. Most of the time insurance companies provide a some level of warranty to repairs made.

[im_an_alien]

This is my problem with those save you money or only pay for what you need type insurance companies. The purpose of insurance is to make you whole, ie return you to where you were before the incident. If they won't even pay for recommended repairs and furnish used parts to save themselves $ then you should be shopping for a better insurer. My insurance is not the cheapest out there but they've always ponied up when needed for repair and even covered aftermarket parts, without putting a cap on what they will spend. Either pay in full for the repair or total the car.
End of rant...

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by adilakif

OK. Here we go.

I picked up my car few hours ago. Multiple noises coming from the front.

1- Coming from Left wheel (?): Noise starts slowly as car starts moving. Its tempo increases when I accelerate. Most audible when slowing down cruising below 20mph. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it. When it starts it keeps going until I fully stop. It may not start again right away. This rim was replaced with a used one provided by Geico. It looks much better than my other rims, almost brand new.

2- Loud humming noise on highway. I am hoping its coming from what's causing the first noise.

3- Sound coming from front/underneath right before I completely stop. Knocks/clicks once or twice. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it.

4- When turning the Steering wheel. Grinding noise. (Video below) Gets louder in the second half of the video.

So, as you may remember Geico refused to replace wheel bearings despite BMW recommending it. At that time when I asked the adjuster, he said we can change it if it causes a problem. BMW claimed multiple times that they road tested the vehicle today to check if they hear any noises. I don't know how you can not hear them. I started hearing the noise number 3 before I even left the parking lot and others right after I got on the road.

I reported all of these issues to both BMW and Geico Adjuster. I am not sure if adjuster will respond. I will probably hear from BMW tomorrow.

The steering wheel does not sound normal.

Do ask the shop foreman to test drive with you and get his confirmation of these issues.

Since dealer replaced the steering rack with genuine BMW part, it should come with at least 2 years/unlimited miles of parts warranty from BMWNA, and dealer should match with same coverage on labor.

Also since the repair was done at a BMW dealer, technically u can bring the car to another dealer and ask another foreman to test drive and confirm your issues too.

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by adilakif

OK. Here we go.

I picked up my car few hours ago. Multiple noises coming from the front.

1- Coming from Left wheel (?): Noise starts slowly as car starts moving. Its tempo increases when I accelerate. Most audible when slowing down cruising below 20mph. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it. When it starts it keeps going until I fully stop. It may not start again right away. This rim was replaced with a used one provided by Geico. It looks much better than my other rims, almost brand new.

2- Loud humming noise on highway. I am hoping its coming from what's causing the first noise.

3- Sound coming from front/underneath right before I completely stop. Knocks/clicks once or twice. It doesn't happen all the time. I need to learn how to replicate it.

4- When turning the Steering wheel. Grinding noise. (Video below) Gets louder in the second half of the video.

So, as you may remember Geico refused to replace wheel bearings despite BMW recommending it. At that time when I asked the adjuster, he said we can change it if it causes a problem. BMW claimed multiple times that they road tested the vehicle today to check if they hear any noises. I don't know how you can not hear them. I started hearing the noise number 3 before I even left the parking lot and others right after I got on the road.

I reported all of these issues to both BMW and Geico Adjuster. I am not sure if adjuster will respond. I will probably hear from BMW tomorrow.

Damn OP, I would be livid. Something like that shouldn’t slip through the cracks by a shop. As others have stated, I would bring the car back but I would demand for a loaner and for this to be corrected. However, don’t act like a clown but be firm with the manager/foreman, etc…. Hopefully you’ll get this resolved w/o any further issues. Keep us posted.

[Desertnate]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

That definitely doesn’t sound good. Definitely take it back. Most of the time insurance companies provide a some level of warranty to repairs made.

Agree. I don't know about when a dealership serves as the body/repair shop, but the body shop I've used for the last two minor accidents involving family vehicles also had a warranty on the work as well, and it was quite lengthy too. This served as an additional layer of protection on top of what the insurance company provided.