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      05-06-2021, 02:46 AM   #1
skow_bmw
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Metal Shavings in Oil Pan

Hello all, first time poster here.

I picked up a 2014 335i xdrive in 2018. It had 30,000 miles at the time. The oil was changed each calendar year and I never got close to 10,000 miles. The car is stock with no modifications and is currently at 42,000 miles.

Last week, I noticed there was a small oil leak. There were a few drops on the ground after parking over night. Upon inspection, the oil filter housing and oil pan gaskets appeared to be sweating/leaking. The valve cover gasket looked ok for now. I changed the oil filter housing and oil cooler gasket myself, but I found a reputable independent dealer to complete the oil pan gasket.

After the shop dropped the oil pan, they sent some concerning news. They found a significant amount of metallic shavings in the oil pan. When I drove it into the shop I didn't notice any knocking or other abnormal engine sounds. The mechanic said the engine sounded unremarkable to him for what little he drove it as well.

Definitely not good news, but considering my options, I'm leaning toward just running it until the engine quits. I heard a few lucky folks have been able to get lots of miles after something like this, but I guess it could seize any day. At that time I think options will be finding a used engine to swap or selling the car as someone's hobby project.

Am I missing anything? Any advice?

Thank you
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Last edited by skow_bmw; 05-06-2021 at 02:59 AM..
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      05-06-2021, 08:53 AM   #2
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Yikes...yeah, that’s not good. You’re probably on borrowed time. If you have any of the old oil left, send a sample to Blackstone Labs, they can analyze it and tell you where the metal could be coming from. If not, drive it for a short bit, change the oil and take a sample then. It could be something you might be able to intercept before it gets out of hand.
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      05-06-2021, 09:24 AM   #3
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You'll definitely want an oil analysis and get those shavings identified. A general guidline.

Iron shavings
Camshaft, crankshaft or valve train wear

Bronze, Copper or Brass shavings
Busing

Moly or chromium shavings
Piston or piston ring wear

Aluminum shavings
Cam bearings or main bearings
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      05-06-2021, 03:22 PM   #4
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Let us know what the analysis says
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      05-06-2021, 03:34 PM   #5
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Those are waaaaay too big to be slightly more than normal wear and tear. Metal from normal wear and tear in the oil looks like the oil is shimmering when you put a light to it, not big chunks. That looks more like casting flash. Maybe left over from new? As others have said, oil analysis.
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      05-07-2021, 01:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erickonphoenix View Post
You'll definitely want an oil analysis and get those shavings identified. A general guidline.

Iron shavings
Camshaft, crankshaft or valve train wear

Bronze, Copper or Brass shavings
Busing

Moly or chromium shavings
Piston or piston ring wear

Aluminum shavings
Cam bearings or main bearings
The tech said the shavings are aluminum. I had the shop button up the car and drove it home about 20 miles. I did get it up to about 60 MPH and 3000 RPM over the course of the drive, but took it really easy.

The shop didn't save any oil, but I did order a test kit. They did a quick look at the crank while it was exposed and didn't see a smoking gun, but I asked them to not spend time chasing the issue.

Neither I or the techs I spoke to heard any unusual engine noise. Hoping I mistook the shavings for casting flash. Here is to living life on borrowed time.
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      05-13-2021, 11:02 AM   #7
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Small percentage of N55 engines in 2013 model year experienced premature connecting rod bearing wear. Worth discussing it with the local shop.
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      05-13-2021, 11:27 AM   #8
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Did you prime oil pump after changing OFHG? If not, that is probably culprit!
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      05-14-2021, 01:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Did you prime oil pump after changing OFHG? If not, that is probably culprit!
Unfortunately the answer is no. I shrugged it off and didn't think necessary since OFHG is similar to oil change and belief that residual oil coating in engine should protect engine bearings for the short time it takes for the oil system to pressurize.

Since then I've done more reading, and become aware of the technical bulletin on the issue. It still doesn't make technical sense to me that it would make the difference, but I wish I could turn back time and take the 5 minutes to prime the oil system by removing the fuel pump fuses and crank the engine 3 times. Didn't know it could be that simple at the time and thought the only way to prime was to disconnect the injector electrical connectors.

I still don't understand how a OFHG swap could cause crank/rod bearing damage, and not certain that it caused the flakes/shavings, but proximity to the OFHG job raises suspicion. I guess it is possible the shaving could have been sitting in the oil pan for an unknown amount of time. I am about 150 miles since dropping the oil pan and the engine still isn't knocking or causing any noticeable symptoms.

Does anyone know if an extended warranty could be an option in this case? Looking for an ethical solution to this issue.
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      05-14-2021, 07:38 AM   #10
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It's not crank or bearing damage, as they're not aluminum. The block is aluminum, as is the oil filter housing. I'm inclined to believe that those shavings are flash that was dislodged when changing the gasket.
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      05-14-2021, 01:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skow_bmw View Post
Unfortunately the answer is no. I shrugged it off and didn't think necessary since OFHG is similar to oil change and belief that residual oil coating in engine should protect engine bearings for the short time it takes for the oil system to pressurize.

Since then I've done more reading, and become aware of the technical bulletin on the issue. It still doesn't make technical sense to me that it would make the difference, but I wish I could turn back time and take the 5 minutes to prime the oil system by removing the fuel pump fuses and crank the engine 3 times. Didn't know it could be that simple at the time and thought the only way to prime was to disconnect the injector electrical connectors.

I still don't understand how a OFHG swap could cause crank/rod bearing damage, and not certain that it caused the flakes/shavings, but proximity to the OFHG job raises suspicion. I guess it is possible the shaving could have been sitting in the oil pan for an unknown amount of time. I am about 150 miles since dropping the oil pan and the engine still isn't knocking or causing any noticeable symptoms.

Does anyone know if an extended warranty could be an option in this case? Looking for an ethical solution to this issue.
Hopefully, it will be fine.
Several problems on N55.
N55 has a variable pump, and basically, you really should immediately press the gas pedal to get rpms to 1,000 to get the pump out of efficiency mode.
When changing the OFHG problem is oil cooler lines. There is just too much air and creates enough starvation to damage bearings. Another solution is to open oil ports on the oil cooler thermostat and pump oil in with some pressure pump. Priming is still best way.
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      05-14-2021, 02:43 PM   #12
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This is a lot and these pieces are pretty big, I think that something is being machined inside your engine. Our engines are so loud that it is hard to hear if a ticking noise is out of place.

Let's see how far it went:
Remove the oil filter and open it flat, see if the Aluminum pieces migrated through the oil system.
If they did, I am afraid that is is very bad and probably a ticking bomb.
If the filter is clean then I would be less worried about the outcome.

Still, metal pieces have nothing to do in the oil, shouldn't be in the oil pan at all, especially in such a great quantity.
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      09-09-2021, 10:58 PM   #13
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Hello all,

I finally did a oil report and you can see it attached. I only ran the oil for ~1500 miles but the lab report came back pretty normal. The viscosity was reading a little low. Not sure why.

The car runs fine and still doesn't have an audible knock. It does seem to have developed a rougher idle, i.e. I can feel the car wobble intermittently when idling.

Any ideas where to go from here? Love the car and hope to drive it for many years to come.
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      09-10-2021, 07:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skow_bmw View Post
Hello all,

I finally did a oil report and you can see it attached. I only ran the oil for ~1500 miles but the lab report came back pretty normal. The viscosity was reading a little low. Not sure why.

The car runs fine and still doesn't have an audible knock. It does seem to have developed a rougher idle, i.e. I can feel the car wobble intermittently when idling.

Any ideas where to go from here? Love the car and hope to drive it for many years to come.
Such low viscosity if XW40 oil was used is consequence of fuel in oil. So check ignition and injection.
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      09-10-2021, 11:23 AM   #15
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Oil analysis showed very little fuel in oil. The analysis at least shows these chunks are not affecting wear and tear. Are you sure these pieces are not magnetic and have you checked? Could be bits of a piston but it seems like your engine is holding for now. Run it until it gives you issues.
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      09-11-2021, 08:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skow_bmw View Post
Hello all,

I finally did a oil report and you can see it attached. I only ran the oil for ~1500 miles but the lab report came back pretty normal. The viscosity was reading a little low. Not sure why.

The car runs fine and still doesn't have an audible knock. It does seem to have developed a rougher idle, i.e. I can feel the car wobble intermittently when idling.

Any ideas where to go from here? Love the car and hope to drive it for many years to come.
Just drive and enjoy the car and monitor with maybe another UOA.
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