[saintpatty]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

That's your issue. Not enough GPM.

You do you, boo.

[boonkgang13k]

Originally Posted by saintpatty

To answer the OP's question, to remove swirls, your best bet is to use something link a DA polisher. The Porter Cable 7424xp is a good budget option. From there you need pads, polishes and/or compounds, and sealants.

If all that sounds overwhelming, pay someone to correct and seal your paint with one of the many ceramic-type coatings. Professional correction and coating is expensive though. Be prepared to spend up to $1k or more for that type of work. Honestly though, if it's something you're interested in doing yourself, it's not rocket science and I can provide you a list of supplies you'd need to do it yourself.

I just ordered the DA polisher you mentioned. Is the Meguiar's Ultimate Polish ok? How do I properly and safely wash my car?

[JamesWWIII]

Originally Posted by boonkgang13k

How do I properly and safely wash my car?

Fairly certain I mentioned this in my earlier post...

https://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

[RoundelM3]

First of all, let's clarify something - your paint has clearcoat on top of the base metallic (same for solid colors too), so the swirls are in the clearcoat, not the color layer. Secondly, the car-wash soap didn't put swirls in the clearcoat - that usually comes from having dirt or other abrasives accumulated on whatever is being used to apply the soap or the towel or chamois used to dry off. It will also occur when the paint has been improperly polished such as when using a lambs-wool buffer pad and a too-aggressive polish.

I bucket-wash my cars using Griot's Garage car wash soap and their microfiber mitt. After rinsing, I use one of their "PFM" microfiber towels (extremely thick and soft) to remove the remaining water drops. If you have a shop-vac with a "blower" capability, you can use that as well. If you have "hard" water (lots of mineral content), be sure to dry the car off ASAP or you'll get water spots that will be difficult to remove.

When I polish and wax my cars, I first use Griot's synthetic clay and their Speed-Shine detail fluid to get any embedded crud off the paint, then I use an orbital polisher with an orange foam polishing pad to apply Griot's one-step paint sealant. After removing the residue by hand with a microfiber towel, I change to a red waxing pad and apply liquid carnauba wax and then remove that residue with the same type of microfiber towel. If this is done properly, once a year will be sufficient.

Meguiar's and 3M make a "glaze" that will remove swirls, although this is best applied using an orbital polisher and a very fine (usually black foam) pad and removed by hand with a very soft microfiber towel.

[CrimDoc]

For what it's worth ...

I just bought a 2019 430i XDrive convertible in Imperial Blue ...

My other car is a 2007 VW Eos convertible in a color that's nearly identical to Imperial Blue.

The Eos is 11 years old (136K miles, daily driver ... including Michigan winters) ... I've never done anything special when washing it ... run it through a commercial car wash every once in awhile ... hose it off with a bucket and sponge now and then. I don't think I've waxed it more than a half dozen times over the years I've owned it (other than choosing the wax option at the car wash).

11 years later the paint looks 98% as good as the day I bought it.

Unless BMW paint is far worse than VW paint, I'm not going to sweat swirl marks ...

[Radmobile]

Originally Posted by roundel335

First of all, let's clarify something - your paint has clearcoat on top of the base metallic (same for solid colors too), so the swirls are in the clearcoat, not the color layer. Secondly, the car-wash soap didn't put swirls in the clearcoat - that usually comes from having dirt or other abrasives accumulated on whatever is being used to apply the soap or the towel or chamois used to dry off. It will also occur when the paint has been improperly polished such as when using a lambs-wool buffer pad and a too-aggressive polish.

I bucket-wash my cars using Griot's Garage car wash soap and their microfiber mitt. After rinsing, I use one of their "PFM" microfiber towels (extremely thick and soft) to remove the remaining water drops. If you have a shop-vac with a "blower" capability, you can use that as well. If you have "hard" water (lots of mineral content), be sure to dry the car off ASAP or you'll get water spots that will be difficult to remove.

This.

Even dish soap will not induce scratches in the "paint" aka clear coat. It will strip any waxes or coatings leaving naked paint. Naked paint is more susceptible to deterioration and scratches. However most mild car-specific wash soaps will be fine on modern BMW two-stage paint. It boils down to your tools and technique.

The OP's car either had scratches beforehand and didn't notice or the tools and techniques used created them. Assuming the paint is "perfect," the below tools and techniques will help minimize inducing imperfections in your paint. However any time you touch the car you are risking inducing scratches.

Two Buckets Minimum, Ideally Three Buckets:

• Bucket #1 - Rinse bucket with grit guard filled with clean water and to rinse your mitt between dunks in soap bucket
• Bucket #2 - Soap bucket for dipping your clean mitt into
• Bucket #3 - Wheels bucket for wheels, fender liners, and tires only

Two Microfiber Mitts + Optional Brushes:

• Mitt #1 for paint surfaces, dipping in bucket #1 to clean your mitt before dunking in bucket #3 to load with soap
• Mitt #2 for wheels, fender liners, etc.
• Optional wheel brushes
• Mitt #2 and optional brushes are ONLY to be used with bucket #3

Mitt Usage Order:

• Top to bottom
• First - Roof, front and rear windshields
• Second - Hood
• Third - sides (top half on both sides first, then bottom half on both sides)
• Fourth - Trunk lid
• Fifth - Front bumper
• Sixth - rear bumper
• Seventh - wheels using mitt #2 and optional brushes with bucket #3

Washing Technique:

• Use straight lines and not circular motions.
• Straight lines minimize the visibility of scratches compared to circular motions.
• If you do have scratches, straight lines are easier to remove than swirls.
• Keep your mitt well lubricated. Water is your friend to lift and glide dirt off the paint surface.
• Remember, any time you touch the paint you are likely inducing fine scratches of varying degrees.

Drying Technique:

• If you don't have compressed air or a leaf blower then use high quality microfiber cloths, tags removed and be careful of the sewn polyester borders.
• Like washing, work top to bottom
• Like washing, use straight lines when drying. Don't use circular 'wax on, wax off' arm strokes.
• Separate microfiber towels for paint, windows, and wheels
• OCD Tip - Grade your towels based on condition and cycle them from paint-only (e.g. brand new) to wheels-only (e.g. embedded dirt stains, ready to throw out). Towels will eventually fall from paint-only to using only for wheels, engines, etc.
• I personally do not believe in chamois, "the absorber" towels in a can, or other snake-oil drying products.

Mitt and Towel Care:

• Run the towels through the washing machine
• Hot/Cold rinse
• Large load
• Do not use fabric softener liquid with microfiber towels
• Air Fluff auto dry setting
• Do not use a dryer sheet with microfiber towels
• Store towels and mitts in covered containers to prevent dust or dirt build-up between washes

If you think this is too exhaustive of tools and a boat-load of cash, please let me break it down for you:

• $10 - 3-Pack of Home Depot 'Homer' Buckets
• $9 - Chemical Guys Grit Guard
• $10 - Meguiars Gold Class Auto Soap (decent over-the-counter quality soap)
• $14 - 2, Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Mitts
• $19 - Chemical Guys 12-pack of 16"x16" Microfiber Drying Towels
• $19 - Optional Wheel Brushes

Total = $62-81

These supplies will last you a fair length of time and are cheaper than professional washes or sending the car to a detailer to 'detail' the car because of poor washing techniques. A little care and precaution will save your car and your wallet.

[TF3090]

With the amount of additional time some people spend making sure they have the perfect wash method that induces no swirling... what if you summed up that time throughout the year and compared it to the time requirement of polishing your car once a year?

I live in an apartment so I just use ONR + one bucket with a few microfibers, spray on some quick wax (meg's d156), dry off one panel at a time. I'm pretty careless when I wash my car, I'm sure I make more contact than I have to when drying, I'll clean as much of a body panel as I can before I have to switch sides on my microfiber, etc. But I save time on my bi-weekly wash by not caring so much, and I can use that time saved to paint correct my car if I ever want to (still have a pristine enough coat of paint for a DD - still no need to correct). The real damage to your car's paint probably isn't going to come from washing your car anyways.

[louielouie]

Originally Posted by TF3090

With the amount of additional time some people spend making sure they have the perfect wash method that induces no swirling... what if you summed up that time throughout the year and compared it to the time requirement of polishing your car once a year?

I live in an apartment so I just use ONR + one bucket with a few microfibers, spray on some quick wax (meg's d156), dry off one panel at a time. I'm pretty careless when I wash my car, I'm sure I make more contact than I have to when drying, I'll clean as much of a body panel as I can before I have to switch sides on my microfiber, etc. But I save time on my bi-weekly wash by not caring so much, and I can use that time saved to paint correct my car if I ever want to (still have a pristine enough coat of paint for a DD - still no need to correct). The real damage to your car's paint probably isn't going to come from washing your car anyways.

Clear coat is finite. I don't have heavy experience with compound and polishing but I'm sure you'll get to your unprotected paint fairly soon doing that.

Some of us also enjoy washing our cars.

[TF3090]

Originally Posted by louielouie

Clear coat is finite. I don't have heavy experience with compound and polishing but I'm sure you'll get to your unprotected paint fairly soon doing that.

Some of us also enjoy washing our cars.

Good point on the clear coat. I'm not saying I burn through my clear coat or anything (still haven't put any polish or compound on this BMW yet, couldn't tell you how hard/soft the paint is). I enjoy washing my car, but I enjoy it so much more not being paranoid while doing it. I used to go through the whole detailed wash process when I had an all black car and was paranoid about swirls... my anxiety is triggered too much to be constantly paranoid about it, though. Much more enjoyable for me to just care less... it doesn't make a difference in the end - like I said, the real damage to your car isn't going to come from washing.

[saintpatty]

Originally Posted by TF3090

With the amount of additional time some people spend making sure they have the perfect wash method that induces no swirling... what if you summed up that time throughout the year and compared it to the time requirement of polishing your car once a year?

I live in an apartment so I just use ONR + one bucket with a few microfibers, spray on some quick wax (meg's d156), dry off one panel at a time. I'm pretty careless when I wash my car, I'm sure I make more contact than I have to when drying, I'll clean as much of a body panel as I can before I have to switch sides on my microfiber, etc. But I save time on my bi-weekly wash by not caring so much, and I can use that time saved to paint correct my car if I ever want to (still have a pristine enough coat of paint for a DD - still no need to correct). The real damage to your car's paint probably isn't going to come from washing your car anyways.

ONR > *

[saintpatty]

Originally Posted by boonkgang13k

I just ordered the DA polisher you mentioned. Is the Meguiar's Ultimate Polish ok? How do I properly and safely wash my car?

I'm sure that's fine. I'm a fan of Optimum's hyper compound/hyper polish. They're spray formulas that are very easy to work with. Buy a small assortment of various pads and you're set.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Originally Posted by CrimDoc

For what it's worth ...

I just bought a 2019 430i XDrive convertible in Imperial Blue ...

My other car is a 2007 VW Eos convertible in a color that's nearly identical to Imperial Blue.

The Eos is 11 years old (136K miles, daily driver ... including Michigan winters) ... I've never done anything special when washing it ... run it through a commercial car wash every once in awhile ... hose it off with a bucket and sponge now and then. I don't think I've waxed it more than a half dozen times over the years I've owned it (other than choosing the wax option at the car wash).

11 years later the paint looks 98% as good as the day I bought it.

Unless BMW paint is far worse than VW paint, I'm not going to sweat swirl marks ...

110% agree with you. Can't see the point of being a car slave, too many other things to be doing. Hard to prove a negaitve about car care but my truck is 20 years old sits on the driveway 24/7 when not in use. Gets washed every few months & looks like this when it does get washed.



Just out of the local gas station car wash with the RainX rinse & some tire black on the wheels.

[ZHP076]

Originally Posted by Radmobile

This.

Even dish soap will not induce scratches in the "paint" aka clear coat. It will strip any waxes or coatings leaving naked paint. Naked paint is more susceptible to deterioration and scratches. However most mild car-specific wash soaps will be fine on modern BMW two-stage paint. It boils down to your tools and technique.

The OP's car either had scratches beforehand and didn't notice or the tools and techniques used created them. Assuming the paint is "perfect," the below tools and techniques will help minimize inducing imperfections in your paint. However any time you touch the car you are risking inducing scratches.

Two Buckets Minimum, Ideally Three Buckets:

• Bucket #1 - Rinse bucket with grit guard filled with clean water and to rinse your mitt between dunks in soap bucket
• Bucket #2 - Soap bucket for dipping your clean mitt into
• Bucket #3 - Wheels bucket for wheels, fender liners, and tires only

Two Microfiber Mitts + Optional Brushes:

• Mitt #1 for paint surfaces, dipping in bucket #1 to clean your mitt before dunking in bucket #3 to load with soap
• Mitt #2 for wheels, fender liners, etc.
• Optional wheel brushes
• Mitt #2 and optional brushes are ONLY to be used with bucket #3

Mitt Usage Order:

• Top to bottom
• First - Roof, front and rear windshields
• Second - Hood
• Third - sides (top half on both sides first, then bottom half on both sides)
• Fourth - Trunk lid
• Fifth - Front bumper
• Sixth - rear bumper
• Seventh - wheels using mitt #2 and optional brushes with bucket #3

Washing Technique:

• Use straight lines and not circular motions.
• Straight lines minimize the visibility of scratches compared to circular motions.
• If you do have scratches, straight lines are easier to remove than swirls.
• Keep your mitt well lubricated. Water is your friend to lift and glide dirt off the paint surface.
• Remember, any time you touch the paint you are likely inducing fine scratches of varying degrees.

Drying Technique:

• If you don't have compressed air or a leaf blower then use high quality microfiber cloths, tags removed and be careful of the sewn polyester borders.
• Like washing, work top to bottom
• Like washing, use straight lines when drying. Don't use circular 'wax on, wax off' arm strokes.
• Separate microfiber towels for paint, windows, and wheels
• OCD Tip - Grade your towels based on condition and cycle them from paint-only (e.g. brand new) to wheels-only (e.g. embedded dirt stains, ready to throw out). Towels will eventually fall from paint-only to using only for wheels, engines, etc.
• I personally do not believe in chamois, "the absorber" towels in a can, or other snake-oil drying products.

Mitt and Towel Care:

• Run the towels through the washing machine
• Hot/Cold rinse
• Large load
• Do not use fabric softener liquid with microfiber towels
• Air Fluff auto dry setting
• Do not use a dryer sheet with microfiber towels
• Store towels and mitts in covered containers to prevent dust or dirt build-up between washes

If you think this is too exhaustive of tools and a boat-load of cash, please let me break it down for you:

• $10 - 3-Pack of Home Depot 'Homer' Buckets
• $9 - Chemical Guys Grit Guard
• $10 - Meguiars Gold Class Auto Soap (decent over-the-counter quality soap)
• $14 - 2, Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Mitts
• $19 - Chemical Guys 12-pack of 16"x16" Microfiber Drying Towels
• $19 - Optional Wheel Brushes

Total = $62-81

These supplies will last you a fair length of time and are cheaper than professional washes or sending the car to a detailer to 'detail' the car because of poor washing techniques. A little care and precaution will save your car and your wallet.

I am so glad I am not the only OCD one on this forum, only I think I might be far worse, I spend entirely too much money on new and improved products at Autogeek. I just air conditioned my garage, I think I may need "help":

[DarkStarBimmer]

Everyone has their own wash routines and things they worry about. There isnt a right or wrong way, but there is my way and your way.


With that said, looking good from 50ft away is far different than looking good up close with proper light.

Happy Sunday!

[CrimDoc]

Hey, if some of you folks enjoy washing and detailing your cars ... all the power to you.

For me, the reality is that even if the car is absolutely perfectly detailed ... a few miles of driving, and it immediately looks "a little dirty".

So, I'd rather just give it a "good" wash ... and after a few miles of driving ... it will also look "a little dirty".

But to each their own.

I do stand by my statement that automotive paints and clear coats have advanced by leaps and bounds over the past two decades, and so, with a modern finish ... "regular" commercial touchless or soft cloth car washes aren't going to hurt them one bit.

Originally Posted by DarkStarBimmer

Everyone has their own wash routines and things they worry about. There isnt a right or wrong way, but there is my way and your way.


With that said, looking good from 50ft away is far different than looking good up close with proper light.

Happy Sunday!

[Speedwell-Industries]

Originally Posted by R.I.P. Grandma

Lots of options for minimizing swirls. Some swear by rinseless washes and others use a 2 bucket approach. Foam cannons, quality wash mitz, microfiber towels, etc. Generally, swirls or light scratches will happen over time. I think owning a DA with good product and pads will help deal with these issues and good tools to have in order to detail your car.

+1

I think that for those driving their cars every day, that swirls are inevitable no matter how hard you try to avoid them.

Washing and waxing your car regularly and the right way (Waterless/Foam Cannon/In the shade/etc..) should keep your car nice and shiny for years!

[NYBMWBrian]

I use two bucket wash method. I still get slight swirls? I have EB so it is a metallic paint