[CntryClub007]

Parts Required: **61319260970 | 61319291520 | 61319296898** - **From Oldest to Newest P/N**

Tools Required: Trim Removal Tool, T25 Hex Bit, Magnetic Screwdriver, E-Sys / Coding Platform

Time Required: 15 Minutes – Shifter, 25 Minutes - Coding

Initial Thoughts: Shifter isn’t required, but cleans up the interior nicely. Coding can be completed without installing the shifter and you can have all of the benefits of the faster shifting on the ZF8HP. Without a doubt, noticing an improvement on manual mode up and down shifting, as well as sport mode. Comfort + D really isn’t changed much. Launch control is pretty slick too, and this will also give you Sport+ too.

If you want to install paddle shifters with the steering wheel, you are on your own at that point as I have not a single clue how to do that, however I believe someone in Russia was able to get it to work.

Procedure - Shifter:
1. Open Center Console Armrest Lid
2. [Optional] Remove iDrive controller trim using trim tool (starting at the back near center console lid). There are 6 clips, make sure the interior is warm for this procedure, the clips are brittle. This gave me a little more space to work with. Don’t need to disconnect the controller.
3. With trim removal tool, gently lift the silver shifter trim piece, which is connected to the black base shifter trim. The entire piece will begin to come up. See underside photo of how these pieces are connected, don’t disconnect the silver and black pieces.
4. There are (4) T25 Hex screws firmly holding the shifter base unit in place. Remove all three screws. I saved the bottom left screw for last (there is a slight overlap with the trim piece and this screw, but simply pop the trim up near the corner where it meets with the center console lid and you will have a little bit more room to work with. Seat the bit firmly with the head of the screw to ensure it doesn’t get stripped. Be patient!
5. With the shifter physically ready to be removed, disconnect the wiring mechanism from the front of the shifter base (you can begin to remove the shifter at this point to access the wiring).
6. The connector tabs simply push towards the wires (center of the connector) and pull out, do not pull the wiring with a lot of force.
7. With the physical unit removed, you can now place the new unit into the vehicle, connect the wiring, and tighten the screws down to 80% in a X pattern, and then the remaining 20% in a X pattern. I couldn’t find a torque specification for this part.
8. Push down and trim pieces.

Procedure – Coding:
1. Need to verify you have I-STEP (F020_13_07_501) or later - Thanks Timur.
2. Using attached instructions, in the FA Editor, change VO (Vehicle Order) from 205 and replace it with 2TB.
3. Once this is complete, you need to individually code each ECU (Kombi, EGS, ICM). This is done at the ECU level, by right clicking on the ECU, and pushing code. It will apply the default code from the new default VO.
4. This is not FDL coding (when you are going into the .CAFD) file. As a result, any FDL coding you have done on that ECU will be removed, but it should be pretty easy to re-FDL code after the VO / ECU coding is done.
5. Let the engine / trans warm up to operating temperature and let it rip.

Supplemental Pictures:

[crazy-frog]

Nice guide, cheers so the new shifter is purely cosmetic, and you can have the port shifting without?

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by meph137

Nice guide, cheers so the new shifter is purely cosmetic, and you can have the port shifting without?

Correct - shifter is cosmetic

[crazy-frog]

Ok so I'd love to do this, but my i-step version is only F020-12-07-533.

Question - I know nothing of i-step versions, my understanding is though that it relates to a software version, i.e. something I can upgrade? So, could I reflash my ecu's to get a higher i-step version, or am I talking absolute nonsense?

Something does strike me - do I have the hardware to achieve SAT, and upgrading my i-step removes my only barrier, or am I lacking the hardware to do so?

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by meph137

Ok so I'd love to do this, but my i-step version is only F020-12-07-533.

Question - I know nothing of i-step versions, my understanding is though that it relates to a software version, i.e. something I can upgrade? So, could I reflash my ecu's to get a higher i-step version, or am I talking absolute nonsense?

Something does strike me - do I have the hardware to achieve SAT, and upgrading my i-step removes my only barrier, or am I lacking the hardware to do so?

You should have the hardware, so long as you have the ZF, which all factory 320, 328, 335 have.

I haven't done much I-STEP work, actually none. I'm sure someone is able to chime in on how to update it, I doubt it can be that difficult.

[lemonchicken]

Originally Posted by meph137

Nice guide, cheers so the new shifter is purely cosmetic, and you can have the port shifting without?

The shifter is barely cosmetic. The coding is the best bang for the buck, but the actual shifter is the least bang for the buck. cmon. look at them. it's like the difference between Magnum and Blue Steel.

[crazy-frog]

Originally Posted by CntryClub007

You should have the hardware, so long as you have the ZF, which all factory 320, 328, 335 have.

I haven't done much I-STEP work, actually none. I'm sure someone is able to chime in on how to update it, I doubt it can be that difficult.

As I understand it, the i-step level either is the firmware level, or is 1:1 tied to the firmware level of all the ECUs, so from what I understand, to upgrade the i-step you upgrade all ECUs. I might be talking pure rubbish here.

But if right, I don't seem to see many F30 ECU flashing posts. Seen some - someone suggested using an ICOM, but can be done with ENET but slower - I hadn't even heard of ICOM before, seems to be going down the rabbit hole..

I think to flash ECUs I need to use a 50amp+ charger to keep everything stable.

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by meph137

As I understand it, the i-step level either is the firmware level, or is 1:1 tied to the firmware level of all the ECUs, so from what I understand, to upgrade the i-step you upgrade all ECUs. I might be talking pure rubbish here.

But if right, I don't seem to see many F30 ECU flashing posts. Seen some - someone suggested using an ICOM, but can be done with ENET but slower - I hadn't even heard of ICOM before, seems to be going down the rabbit hole..

I think to flash ECUs I need to use a 50amp+ charger to keep everything stable.

I believe you are on the right track here. Also correct, many people reco connecting to another vehicle with jumper cables for constant power supply or the charger you mentioned.

I believe ICOM is just a much faster protocol.

I'll see if I can find anything useful out there.

[Archibald Donnington]

Originally Posted by CntryClub007

I believe you are on the right track here. Also correct, many people reco connecting to another vehicle with jumper cables for constant power supply or the charger you mentioned.

I believe ICOM is just a much faster protocol.

I'll see if I can find anything useful out there.

This is awesome, but it's all gobble-dee-gook to me. Before I assess the bottom of the curve on this one, I've reached out to Alpine Tuning to see if they can assist with the coding.

I would really enjoy having a quicker transmission shift, but the instructions are very intimidating for a noob coder.

[CntryClub007]

The coding is actually very simple, obviously you haven't done much yet, which is fine because people here can assist. The VO coding is actually easier than FDL because you don't have to change individual lines, all you change on the FA is 205 -> 2TB and code the ECU's to take the new parameters.

I really wouldn't consider paying someone to do this IMO.

[Archibald Donnington]

I have a Mac laptop, but no cables. What would I need in terms of hardware and software?

Also, I have a 2015 X1 28ix. So I have the N20 and the ZF 8spd. However, I do not have the comfort, sport, sport+, options that are available in the F-series. Would I be able to do this and would it take? Not sure if you know, but worth a try.

[WV328]

^I'm with Archibald. I'm in the same situation with same computer. Anyone know exactly what we need and where to obtain it?

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by WV328

^I'm with Archibald. I'm in the same situation with same computer. Anyone know exactly what we need and where to obtain it?

Ya - Go to eBay and type in BMW Coding Cable, all of this can be had for $20. E-SYS and TokenMaster solution are both very easy.

Look for the seller CompuBuilderNet

[Ateszka86]

Hi. I have a 2014-F30-335i with a simple shifter. I bought the sport shifter and if I do this coding that you wrote here it will be enough?

Procedure – Coding:
1. Need to verify you have I-STEP (F020_13_07_501) or later - Thanks Timur.
2. Using attached instructions, in the FA Editor, change VO (Vehicle Order) from 205 and replace it with 2TB.
3. Once this is complete, you need to individually code each ECU (Kombi, EGS, ICM). This is done at the ECU level, by right clicking on the ECU, and pushing code. It will apply the default code from the new default VO.
4. This is not FDL coding (when you are going into the .CAFD) file. As a result, any FDL coding you have done on that ECU will be removed, but it should be pretty easy to re-FDL code after the VO / ECU coding is done.
5. Let the engine / trans warm up to operating temperature and let it rip.

thank you.

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by Ateszka86

Hi. I have a 2014-F30-335i with a simple shifter. I bought the sport shifter and if I do this coding that you wrote here it will be enough?

Procedure – Coding:
1. Need to verify you have I-STEP (F020_13_07_501) or later - Thanks Timur.
2. Using attached instructions, in the FA Editor, change VO (Vehicle Order) from 205 and replace it with 2TB.
3. Once this is complete, you need to individually code each ECU (Kombi, EGS, ICM). This is done at the ECU level, by right clicking on the ECU, and pushing code. It will apply the default code from the new default VO.
4. This is not FDL coding (when you are going into the .CAFD) file. As a result, any FDL coding you have done on that ECU will be removed, but it should be pretty easy to re-FDL code after the VO / ECU coding is done.
5. Let the engine / trans warm up to operating temperature and let it rip.

thank you.

You could do just the coding, and then swap in the new shifter for looks.

[Ateszka86]

After programming, the rooting(programming error) says there's an error. The shifter works but I can't delete the rooting error
What is the problem? what do you think?

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by Ateszka86

After programming, the rooting(programming error) says there's an error. The shifter works but I can't delete the rooting error
What is the problem? what do you think?

I've never seen a rooting error? Not sure what this is...might want to post up in coding forum.

[Blacktan]

This coding just seems .... Greek to me ! (Even if i am from Greece )

Just a question guys , how risky is this type of coding ?
I just started to code my car so i am not experienced.

Is it possible for someone to explain to procedure in more simple way ?

Thanks

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by Blacktan

This coding just seems .... Greek to me ! (Even if i am from Greece )

Just a question guys , how risky is this type of coding ?
I just started to code my car so i am not experienced.

Is it possible for someone to explain to procedure in more simple way ?

Thanks

Did you read the attachment in post 1?

[Blacktan]

Yeap ,
Too risky for my experience ...

[Blacktan]

My car is already equiped with sport+ mode as an mpack version.

According to following thread -as far as i can understand- i just need to change only fdl parameters and not FA ?

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1138452&page=2

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by Blacktan

My car is already equiped with sport+ mode as an mpack version.

According to following thread -as far as i can understand- i just need to change only fdl parameters and not FA ?

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1138452&page=2

Do you have 205 or 2TB in your FA? This should be a very easy search function in E-Sys. I believe, even if you have Sport+, that doesn't mean you have 2TB.