[rbreding]

Well after doing the CCV Oil Catch Can on the e90 335d during the CBU cleaning I checked the can after about 300 miles there was about a teaspoon (didn't measure it, just eyeballed it and guestimated) of oil in the bottom of the can.

That being said I examined the CCV connections on the F30 328d today and determined that the exact same setup could be done on that vehicle. One of the reasons for this mod is to eliminate a "source" of CBU ingredient and to keep the oil out of the IC. There was about a half cup of oil in the factory IC on the e90 after 65k miles when it was changed out.

This was the post that was mostly followed except I used a different supplier for the catch can. The design was identical. This same list appears to be able to be used for the F30 and I will be duplicating it as soon as the parts arrive. Based on my initial examination it appears as though this mod can be reversed if you so chose as none of the OEM parts are cut/modified in an unnecessary fashion.


Pictures to follow once the parts arrive and some additional documentation ta boot.

[rbreding]

OK. Process completed today. Went as I assumed and all the parts were a perfect fit for what was assumed. Catch can was mounted on the drivers side. This will facilitate enough time for the oil/air mixture to condense and turn back into a liquid. During disassembly I was surprised and mildly concerned/justified in the oil that I saw in the intake ribs upstream of the CCV intake. When I pull the front bumper next month for replacement I will likely pull the IC to see how much oil is inside. I have an approximately 500 mile trip planned for this weekend so this will be a good test of the catch can to see what the results are.

With that said here we go:

1. Intake air box was pulled to facilitate easy access. Disconnected the MAF electrical connector, unscrew the worm drive clamp, and also disconnect the secondary air inlet on the bottom of the filter housing before completely removing the air filter box.
2. Disconnect the CCV wiring harness (upper and lower connection of CCV hose and the main wiring harness connection). When disconnecting the upper you will also need to push the little retaining clip on the CCV hose to also pull this off. Lower CCV electrical connection is just that.
3. Unscrew the torx screw that holds the battery/starter cable so you have room to work. Unscrew the 10mm bolt that holds the lower air intake secure.
4. Pull the retaining clip slightly out with a flathead that holds the air intake to the turbo inlet.
5. Remove the lower air intake from the car. (you are removing the intake to easier facilitate the removal of the ring in step 7 and also to inspect to see how much oil is in the lower intake)

NOTE: There will be oil in the lower air intake and the amount will depend on mileage. Be prepared for some to drip out. Clean up the intake if necessary to prevent a larger mess.

6. Separate the upper CCV electrical from the plastic retainer. It just needs to be slightly pried and it will come out.
7. Cut the lower CCV hose retaining ring that holds the larger end to the air intake with a dremel. Be careful not to cut completely through the rubber reducer in case you want to revert for any reason. If needed in the future this could be resecured with a worm drive clamp.
8. Reinstall the lower intake, secure the clip that holds the intake to the turbo, reinstall the 10mm bolt that secures the lower intake to the engine block.
9. Cut and install the new 90deg CCV replacement hose for the lower intake. Insert brass straight nipple and secure flexible hose with two worm clamps. Route this hose to your oil catch can OUTLET side. Cut the hose to fit so as not to cause the oil catch can to be in a bind. Secure worm clamp.
10. Temporarily set the air intake box back in its place to better aid in placement of the upper CCV hose.
12. Cut and install the new 90deg CCV replacement hose for the upper CCV connection. Arrange the worm clamp to where the bolt is on the under side of the CCV electrical connector. Orientate the 90deg hose to the right with a slight down angle and secure the worm clamp.
13. Insert the brass nipple and connect remaining flexible hose and secure with worm clamps. Route hose so as not to introduce a drastic uphill run. You want the oil to drain to the can as it condenses.
14. Cut the hose to fit the can so as not to cause the can to be in a bind. Secure the worm clamp to the can.
15. Move air intake box back out of the way.
16. Reinstall CCV electrical connections starting with the lower connection, then the main harness connection, then the upper CCV block.
17. Reinstall air intake box by first securing the secondary lower intake then lowering the left side watching the grooves for the "ram air" supply to ensure its properly connected.
18. Reconnect lower air intake to the air intake box, tighten worm clamp, reconnect MAF sensor cable.


Hopefully these pictures go in order. I will update this post after the long test drive this weekend.

[Hypermile]

In for more info

[Uber Commuter]

Following.

[CleanKM]

Subscribed.

[rbreding]

Post Updated. Catch Can Installed.

[Hypermile]

Good wright up. Thanks for sharing. Eyes open for long term review.

[Gabreigns]

Subscribed. Good stuff!

[bigdaddycane]

Nice work, let us know how much oil is collected.

I liked the BMS CC setup I ran on my N54 a few years ago.

[rbreding]

Well, about 450 miles later minimal oil collected. I did notice my inlet connection on the can was a little loose and had some evidence of oily residue around it, but not enough to show drips or anything. I know that part of the engine is cooler so it should be condensing. Will examine the inlet hose a little more end of this week and see if there is any pooling anywhere.

The 335d is definitely collecting much more oil than the 328d. Shes a heavy breather.

[FaRKle!]

I took measurements of some of the CCV components this weekend while putting in my catch can system.

OD of the output fitting for the CCV (not including the o-ring): 25mm (0.984")
ID of the plastic elbow that goes on the CCV output fitting: 26mm (1.02")
ID of the plastic elbow on it's outlet side: 16mm (0.63")
OD of the corrugated plastic tubing: 24mm (0.945")
ID of the corrugated plastic tubing: 19.5mm (0.768)

One thing I noticed was a ton of buildup around the rubber reducer in my system. It turns out whoever installed the metal band clamp that's supposed to secure the corrugated tube into the rubber reducer did a poor job. It was pretty loose and I was able to pull the corrugated tube out of the reducer without cutting the band clamp.

The -10AN hose recommended in the linked post has a nominal ID of 0.56". I decided instead of using 1/2" (0.5") barbed brass union fittings I'd go a size up and use 5/8" (0.625") ones. I bought a 5 pack on eBay for $12 shipped. These worked very well with the -10AN hose. For the silicone elbow I also sized up a bit and went with a 1" to 5/8" version.

[Enabled]

Watching. Pleased to read that the factory system seems to work well on the N47.

[n00bkiller944]

Interested. Thanks for doing this investigation work!

[kdog_x]

Any update on this. Curious if it has caught much oil or if you still have it installed?

Also, Did the silicone tubing hold up? The manufacturer does say its not compatible with oil.

Found that the 8" piece of corrugated tubing on mine was cracked, considering going this route since that piece is not available separately. Gotta buy the whole filtered air pipe which is a couple hundred $$.

[rbreding]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

Any update on this. Curious if it has caught much oil or if you still have it installed?

Also, Did the silicone tubing hold up? The manufacturer does say its not compatible with oil.

Found that the 8" piece of corrugated tubing on mine was cracked, considering going this route since that piece is not available separately. Gotta buy the whole filtered air pipe which is a couple hundred $$.

See attached picture (for some reason its uploading rotated.....visually rotate it in your head 90deg CW) for collection since last oil change. Approximately 6k miles and what looks like about a tablespoon. Keep in mind not all specific vehicles breathe the same. As an example my 335d breathes heavier than some others that have cans and as such collects more.

Tubing is holding up perfectly fine. I have have this same setup on all three of my BMW diesels and so do many others. Tubing on all those others holding up fine also.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

Any update on this. Curious if it has caught much oil or if you still have it installed?

Also, Did the silicone tubing hold up? The manufacturer does say its not compatible with oil.

Found that the 8" piece of corrugated tubing on mine was cracked, considering going this route since that piece is not available separately. Gotta buy the whole filtered air pipe which is a couple hundred $$.

It might be worth having a further chat with your local BMW parts dept. I was in the same situation with my 2012 330d : cracked OEM CCV pipe, and originally quoted ~£150 for a section of the inlet air supply pipe (which comes complete with the CCV pipe).

I went in to the parts dept in person and we found just the CCV pipe was available for the 530d and shared the same connection fittings : £9.

[kdog_x]

Thanks, I think I may pick up a catch can and see what collects. For now it's rigged with some heater hose and couple irrigation fittings, not so stylish... but functional lol. I think I'm going to try to use 12AN line since the ID is a bit closer to the 3/4" ID of the stock tube.

I may have to take that small broken section into the parts department and see if we can get a more appropriate fix that way as well. It seems like that piece is available for nearly every model except the 328d. I did look up the 335 piece, it's similar but it definitely looks a bit different

[FaRKle!]

My catch can system is working fine. Not too much buildup so far, but I'm also using Mishimoto's high flow diesel can so it can hold a lot larger volume.

My silicone elbows and adapters are holding up fine. I've been monitoring them since it's not supposed to be compatible long term. Getting oil rated ones though are pretty darn pricey. Of note, stick with HPS brand elbows. I tried a cheaper one from the UK, and their ID/ODs weren't controlled very well and were unusable. The thicker wall meant it couldn't fit between the electrical connector and output at the top of the engine.

The corrugated tubing piece we need for the US 328d only seems to be available with the US part number. We have an extra sensor on the intake that the EU models don't appear to have. The good news is that you should be able to buy the EU part, and then cut the corrugated tubing to length for the US one since the EU one doesn't have the rubber reducer, and should be a bit longer.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

I may have to take that small broken section into the parts department and see if we can get a more appropriate fix that way as well. It seems like that piece is available for nearly every model except the 328d. I did look up the 335 piece, it's similar but it definitely looks a bit different

Even though the part is listed in 328d RealOEM as not sold separately, I found the PN for it on the older Euro 320d RealOEM page. Interestingly, it's not a sensor as I thought at the bottom of the tube, but rather a heating element and is listed as the "cold weather" version of the pipe.

The PN for 320d cold weather/328d CCV pipe is 13718507386.
If you want the heater-less pipe (cheaper) to reuse your original heater then the PN is 13717823517. I'm going to order a 517 part to pair with my original heater/reducer so I can pass a smog inspection (no CCV mods allowed, even if they make things cleaner).

[kdog_x]

Very nice, thanks!!

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

I may have to take that small broken section into the parts department and see if we can get a more appropriate fix that way as well. It seems like that piece is available for nearly every model except the 328d. I did look up the 335 piece, it's similar but it definitely looks a bit different

I had success using the 13717823517 hose, cutting it to length and restoring the CCV system to "stock." You can see my writeup in my log.

Also, below is how much my catch can's collected in 4000mi. It's about 1oz.

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I had success using the 13717823517 hose, cutting it to length and restoring the CCV system to "stock." You can see my writeup in my log.

The log link doesn't go anywhere. That's a good amount though, definitely better than it coating the intake or turbos. Do you use steel wool or anything in your can?