07-21-2018, 02:28 AM | #1 |
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F30 328i drivetrain error
Hello. This is Jongdoo in Abu Dhabi.
My car is 2014 328i and I have a big trouble. I tried to change the last spark plug to the cabin yesterday (3 spark plugs already changed) but my tool was touched to the bolt that is connected red line (I think it's + ) I saw the spark between the tool and bolt. After then Drivetrain error is coming. I have OBD and check the diagnostic below. This is the diagnostic report. Engine / Motor Fault Code: 113027 Fault Explanation: Relay ignition and injectors, supply voltage injection: line break Fault Code: 1F0515 Fault Explanation: Valvetronic, supply voltage: Line break Fault Code: 1F4A02 Fault Explanation: Relay ignition and injectors, Control: short circuit to ground Fault Code: 133102 Fault Explanation: Valvetronic relay control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: CD9010 Fault Explanation: LIN, communication (engine coolant pump): missing Fault Code: 1B5202 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 1: no voltage Fault Code: 1B5402 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 3: none Power Fault Code: 1B5302 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 2: no voltage Fault Code: 130002 Fault Explanation: VANOS solenoid valve inlet, control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 130202 Fault Explanation: VANOS solenoid valve outlet Control: short circuit to ground Fault Code: 122002 Fault Explanation: Diverter valve control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 1C0202 Fault Explanation: Engine oil pressure control valve actuation: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 12B102 Fault Explanation: Lambda probe heating before catalyst activation: short circuit to ground What is the problem and what should I do now? Thank you. |
03-06-2019, 07:24 PM | #3 |
David
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Def. something you'll have to take to a professional, looks like the ECU shorted but no definitive answer. My question is, why didn't you have the terminal cover in place?
Start by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting, see if that does anything. |
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03-06-2019, 07:26 PM | #4 |
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If you shorted the + battery terminal in the engine bay through the wrench while it was trying to unscrew the spark plug, I can't see why that would do any permanent damage. I don't think there are even any fuses between that terminal and the battery in the trunk. Should have grounded to the engine block. The computer might have seen a high discharge from the battery. Have you tried pulling the positive battery cable from the trunk and letting it site that way for like 15 minutes?
If the wrench was not on the spark plug at the time, it could have done a wide range of damage.
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05-28-2019, 11:20 AM | #5 |
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Help Please Battery positive terminal shorted from loosen nut
What should I do can anyone help with this problem please
I have a 2013 535i f10 n55 I have the same issue just like this just a bit differant witch mine was started from a nut being loosen on the battery jumpstart terminaland I have a big trouble. I tried to change the last spark plug to the cabin yesterday (3 spark plugs already changed) but my tool was touched to the bolt that is connected red line (I think it's + ) I saw the spark between the tool and bolt. After then Drivetrain error is coming. I have OBD and check the diagnostic below. This is the diagnostic report. Engine / Motor Fault Code: 113027 Fault Explanation: Relay ignition and injectors, supply voltage injection: line break Fault Code: 1F0515 Fault Explanation: Valvetronic, supply voltage: Line break Fault Code: 1F4A02 Fault Explanation: Relay ignition and injectors, Control: short circuit to ground Fault Code: 133102 Fault Explanation: Valvetronic relay control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: CD9010 Fault Explanation: LIN, communication (engine coolant pump): missing Fault Code: 1B5202 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 1: no voltage Fault Code: 1B5402 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 3: none Power Fault Code: 1B5302 Fault Explanation: Terminal 15N 2: no voltage Fault Code: 130002 Fault Explanation: VANOS solenoid valve inlet, control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 130202 Fault Explanation: VANOS solenoid valve outlet Control: short circuit to ground Fault Code: 122002 Fault Explanation: Diverter valve control: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 1C0202 Fault Explanation: Engine oil pressure control valve actuation: Short circuit to ground Fault Code: 12B102 Fault Explanation: Lambda probe heating before catalyst activation: short circuit to ground What is the problem and what should I do now? Thank you. |
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04-07-2020, 02:07 PM | #8 | |
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04-07-2020, 08:14 PM | #9 |
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you probably blew a fuse, check this thing
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...i/61149227752/ its located in the trunk behind the passenger side trunk lining. I would pull that out and make sure none of the fuses are blown there first. |
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05-08-2021, 03:35 PM | #10 | |
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05-11-2021, 05:14 PM | #11 | |
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EDIT: After a lot of searching and troubleshooting (because I, too, refuse to let a dealer get one over on me and the bimmer forums were surprising less than helpful on this one) it did end up being the Distributor fuse box Jmaak listed linked above (and I will link below.) I actually started with the IVM; which is also called a Power Distribution Module or an IVM depending on who you order it from. Considering I had just detailed my engine bay a few weeks prior; the chance of detergent or water creeping and causing corrosion or further damage was possible. (BimmerLink) All of fault codes of concern: 1B5302: Terminal 15N_2: no voltage 122002: Diverter Valve, Control: Short Circuit to Ground 1C0202: Engine Oil Pressure Control Valve, Control: Short Circuit to Ground 130002: VANOS Solenoid Valve Outlet, Control: Short Circuit to Ground 130202: VANOS Solenoid Valve Inlet, Control: Short Circuit to Ground 120408: Boost Pressure Control: Shutdown as a follow-up reaction 102A01: Air Mass Meter: Signal: Electrical Fault I did throw a few more codes in other areas but these were the persistent errors. I'll have to reflash the tune to be sure everything is the way is should be. But I don't suspect anything fouled up. HOWEVER, Regarding OP, I would suggest starting with the distributor fuse multi in the trunk. A) it's cheapest and B) it's really quick and simple to replace. Terminal 15N Voltage is BMW's electronic brain's way of saying it's constantly on. Everything run's back to those. The only time i experience Terminal 15N_1 and Terminal 15N_3 no voltage was when i was trouble shooting the IVM and had it entirely disconnected. So bearing that in mind.... it is entirely possible to fry connectors. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...i/61149227752/ https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...uine-bmw-part/ Last edited by wolfamongmen; 05-17-2021 at 09:09 PM.. Reason: Updating with "my" solution |
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07-24-2021, 08:21 PM | #12 | |
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https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1712431 I'm outside atlanta and found the box at a BMW dismantler/used parts place, Bimmer Motor World, you can likely find them on eBay as well, it doesn't have to be new as long as the fuses are good. Search for "rear battery distribution box" or something like that, it is a red plastic box. |
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02-15-2023, 03:25 AM | #13 |
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Hi all
Got the exact same issue on my m235i from 2014. Any fix here? I have replaced the ISM but will still not start. Finger crossed that not a blown DME...
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02-15-2023, 12:21 PM | #14 |
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I have found the issue in my case, too bad that I sent the DME for repair before checking that but it is one of the fuse in the distributor B+ next to the battery that is down. I checked the ISM and all fuses of the car but forgot about this one...
I have requested the return of my DME asap and found a dstributor B+ unit on ebay for around 20euros.
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