[goodguyf335]

I've heard that a downpipe with a cat provides a much deeper sound, shots from the exhaust and generally a better effect than without a cat. Can anyone with experience advise me? i'm going to tune the car for about 430hp stage 2+ mhd with xHp stage 3 gearbox map

[Wires]

Catless sounds like crap. You are running a straight pipe, and if you like that "just cut the exhaust off my car sound" then it might be for you. If you want the gun-shot burbles, then you need catless. Those sound like crap as well.

And then you add in the smell from the lack of cat.

[goodguyf335]

Originally Posted by Wires

Catless sounds like crap. You are running a straight pipe, and if you like that "just cut the exhaust off my car sound" then it might be for you. If you want the gun-shot burbles, then you need catless. Those sound like crap as well.

And then you add in the smell from the lack of cat.

This was exactly the answer I was looking for. so finally without a cat I will get nice pops and bangs but a shitty sound and with a cat shitty burble but a nice deep roar of the engine?

[Wires]

Originally Posted by goodguyf335

This was exactly the answer I was looking for. so finally without a cat I will get nice pops and bangs but a shitty sound and with a cat shitty burble but a nice deep roar of the engine?

Basically yes. The biggest issue is somehow, someone decided that burbles were cool sounding and they need to be dialed to 11. If you fully disable "burbles" in the tune, you still get the nature rumbling sound, not the over exaggerated sound.

One thing to keep in mind, is those heavy burble tunes aren't good for the engine. By design, they tune the engine to keep the throttle open and retard timing when you get off the throttle. This is keeping airflow into the turbo to minimize lag when you get back on the throttle, and you get the light thunder rumbling burbles.

When you crank it to pops and bangs, it is hard on engine valves and the turbo.

[goodguyf335]

Originally Posted by Wires

Basically yes. The biggest issue is somehow, someone decided that burbles were cool sounding and they need to be dialed to 11. If you fully disable "burbles" in the tune, you still get the nature rumbling sound, not the over exaggerated sound.

One thing to keep in mind, is those heavy burble tunes aren't good for the engine. By design, they tune the engine to keep the throttle open and retard timing when you get off the throttle. This is keeping airflow into the turbo to minimize lag when you get back on the throttle, and you get the light thunder rumbling burbles.

When you crank it to pops and bangs, it is hard on engine valves and the turbo.

thanks for the precise statement, do you think to completely exclude any burble or just reduce the intensity? and do you know if it is possible to reach 430 km with the mhd stage 2+ map without the addition of meth? Intake is supposed to add 21hp, dp 45hp without tune, ic around 20hp and besides that i decided to change bov, cp, ignition coil kit with 3 times more spark than stock, colder spark plugs, vtt crankcase breather and gfb dv+. map from mhd stage 2+ and xhp stage 3 do you think that 430whp is achievable without the meth? thank you very much for any information!

[Wires]

Burbles are all up to you. For me, the sound is annoying, and I'm not willing to damage a very expensive engine (if you look, nobody wants to rebuild them, they just replace) and expensive turbo.

You'd have to check some of the threads for HP (or someone with those mods can chime in). I doubt you will get 21HP from the intake (maybe 5-10?). These mods "change bov, cp, ignition coil kit with 3 times more spark than stock, colder spark plugs, vtt crankcase breather" won't gain you additional power. Stock coils and plugs are more than sufficient. Good luck! Power is fun and addictive!

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by goodguyf335

thanks for the precise statement, do you think to completely exclude any burble or just reduce the intensity? and do you know if it is possible to reach 430 km with the mhd stage 2+ map without the addition of meth? Intake is supposed to add 21hp, dp 45hp without tune, ic around 20hp and besides that i decided to change bov, cp, ignition coil kit with 3 times more spark than stock, colder spark plugs, vtt crankcase breather and gfb dv+. map from mhd stage 2+ and xhp stage 3 do you think that 430whp is achievable without the meth? thank you very much for any information!

If you dont touch the burble settings in MHD flash options they stay as OEM. That is what i run and they sound fine. They will obviously still be louder than stock if your cat/exhaust increases volume but they wont be more aggressive/explosive than OEM.

You will not reach 430whp on MHD stage 2+. I assume you are looking at the numbers quoted on their website. Those are pretty accurate for CRANK HP numbers based on people that have dyno'd. If you are running the 93 octane map with great fuel quality and perfect timing/supporting mods you will be right around 365whp which is their quoted number with drivetrain loss. Run the E20 map and you might get 375whp. This of course includes supporting mods. You dont add the power gain from mods on top of the quoted numbers since the quoted numbers assume you have the mods installed.

As noted above you might gain 5hp from an intake, if anything. You also should not be running colder plugs with a smaller gap, keep stock plugs stock gap. Coils are also unnecessary but probably wont hurt. Same for GFB unless the stock DV is damaged. You dont need a crankcase breather either.

[goodguyf335]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If you dont touch the burble settings in MHD flash options they stay as OEM. That is what i run and they sound fine. They will obviously still be louder than stock if your cat/exhaust increases volume but they wont be more aggressive/explosive than OEM.

You will not reach 430whp on MHD stage 2+. I assume you are looking at the numbers quoted on their website. Those are pretty accurate for CRANK HP numbers based on people that have dyno'd. If you are running the 93 octane map with great fuel quality and perfect timing/supporting mods you will be right around 365whp which is their quoted number with drivetrain loss. Run the E20 map and you might get 375whp. This of course includes supporting mods. You dont add the power gain from mods on top of the quoted numbers since the quoted numbers assume you have the mods installed.

As noted above you might gain 5hp from an intake, if anything. You also should not be running colder plugs with a smaller gap, keep stock plugs stock gap. Coils are also unnecessary but probably wont hurt. Same for GFB unless the stock DV is damaged. You dont need a crankcase breather either.

thank you very much for the precise answer, I appreciate it! it's 450 hp blows me away ... I didn't think that so much can be achieved I was talking about 430 hp not whp sorry my mistake I will go catless due to the larger increments and as you say I will stay with oem burbles.

[goodguyf335]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If you dont touch the burble settings in MHD flash options they stay as OEM. That is what i run and they sound fine. They will obviously still be louder than stock if your cat/exhaust increases volume but they wont be more aggressive/explosive than OEM.

You will not reach 430whp on MHD stage 2+. I assume you are looking at the numbers quoted on their website. Those are pretty accurate for CRANK HP numbers based on people that have dyno'd. If you are running the 93 octane map with great fuel quality and perfect timing/supporting mods you will be right around 365whp which is their quoted number with drivetrain loss. Run the E20 map and you might get 375whp. This of course includes supporting mods. You dont add the power gain from mods on top of the quoted numbers since the quoted numbers assume you have the mods installed.

As noted above you might gain 5hp from an intake, if anything. You also should not be running colder plugs with a smaller gap, keep stock plugs stock gap. Coils are also unnecessary but probably wont hurt. Same for GFB unless the stock DV is damaged. You dont need a crankcase breather either.

I will also ask about xHp, do you think that with this map stage 3 is much too much for the drive in xDrive? don't you think that some oil additive for the differential and an oil additive for the gearbox wouldn't do the trick?

[Wires]

Originally Posted by goodguyf335

I will also ask about xHp, do you think that with this map stage 3 is much too much for the drive in xDrive? don't you think that some oil additive for the differential and an oil additive for the gearbox wouldn't do the trick?

First off, you need to get off the "oil additive/better oil" bandwagon. OEM oils are designed with the proper modifers to work best in those assemblies -- regardless of power. Prime example was a 6-speed Honda manual I had. That thing shifted like butter, had a friend that bought Red Line because it made is Camaro shift smoother. I tried it, and EVERY shift was notchy. I dumped out $50 of 2-week old oil and put in $50 of OEM oil to "fix" my mistake.

I ran xHP Stage3, but found it too harsh on the downshifts (I use manual mode in an xDrive). I ended up going to Stage2 as a nice compromise. If you run sport+ mode, I "think" that's close to Stage3, but you choose when it happens.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Wires

First off, you need to get off the "oil additive/better oil" bandwagon. OEM oils are designed with the proper modifers to work best in those assemblies -- regardless of power. Prime example was a 6-speed Honda manual I had. That thing shifted like butter, had a friend that bought Red Line because it made is Camaro shift smoother. I tried it, and EVERY shift was notchy. I dumped out $50 of 2-week old oil and put in $50 of OEM oil to "fix" my mistake.

I ran xHP Stage3, but found it too harsh on the downshifts (I use manual mode in an xDrive). I ended up going to Stage2 as a nice compromise. If you run sport+ mode, I "think" that's close to Stage3, but you choose when it happens.

I also went down to stage 2 from stage 3. It felt identical really. This was based on the post from Pure which looks like it has since been removed but this post talks about it.

https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=94

[goodguyf335]

Originally Posted by Wires

First off, you need to get off the "oil additive/better oil" bandwagon. OEM oils are designed with the proper modifers to work best in those assemblies -- regardless of power. Prime example was a 6-speed Honda manual I had. That thing shifted like butter, had a friend that bought Red Line because it made is Camaro shift smoother. I tried it, and EVERY shift was notchy. I dumped out $50 of 2-week old oil and put in $50 of OEM oil to "fix" my mistake.

I ran xHP Stage3, but found it too harsh on the downshifts (I use manual mode in an xDrive). I ended up going to Stage2 as a nice compromise. If you run sport+ mode, I "think" that's close to Stage3, but you choose when it happens.

thank you so much for clearing all my doubts