[335iDCT]

I 've just have my coilover installed along with the camber plates, but I'm getting all kinds of noises. Other than road noises, I'm also getting 'cracking' noise from body twisting; especially when going very slowly over a speedy bump or curb. Seems like the noise is transmitted from the strut tower to the strut bar, then to the strut bars' attach point right below the windshield.

Has anyone with camber plates having the same issue? Are these normal noises that I should be getting from camber plates? The spring rate is ~340 lb/in, is it too stiff that causing the body twisting? I'm worrying about the C/O with camber plates causing too much stress to the strut tower and eventually cracking it.

Pls help.......

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by 335iDCT

I 've just have my coilover installed along with the camber plates, but I'm getting all kinds of noises. Other than road noises, I'm also getting 'cracking' noise from body twisting; especially when going very slowly over a speedy bump or curb. Seems like the noise is transmitted from the strut tower to the strut bar, then to the strut bars' attach point right below the windshield.

Has anyone with camber plates having the same issue? Are these normal noises that I should be getting from camber plates? The spring rate is ~340 lb/in, is it too stiff that causing the body twisting? I'm worrying about the C/O with camber plates causing too much stress to the strut tower and eventually cracking it.

Pls help.......

what kind of plates and coilovers?

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

what kind of plates and coilovers?

Nitron, an isolated, unheard of brand from UK. Quality, service and workmanship are good. The rear one has no issues at all.

[jbass524]

the spring perch in the camber plate has to be designed for the coilover. Are they the same brand? If they are different brands then this is a likely issue.

[LOLrance]

I have ground control race plates and the noise at low speeds or going over imperfections is definitely there, but thats just the nature of the beast. Due to the separate solid spring and strut bearings, there will be noise. With any metal to metal contact, noise is inevitable.

[jbass524]

OP mentions a "cracking noise". That's not normal unless what's cracking to him is clunking to you and I. The metal to metal connection will make, what I call, a clunking noise.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

the spring perch in the camber plate has to be designed for the coilover. Are they the same brand? If they are different brands then this is a likely issue.

They are from the same brand with matching spring perch.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

OP mentions a "cracking noise". That's not normal unless what's cracking to him is clunking to you and I. The metal to metal connection will make, what I call, a clunking noise.

Clunking as you mentioned, but I don't think it is the metal to metal contacting noise that I'm referring to. Eg. With one wheel going on curb or speed bump or ramp on very slow speed, the body starts twisting a bit and this clunking noise occurs; so I don't think it is metal to metal. Seems like it's the noise from the attach points of the strut tower bar.

BTW, anyone has the part no. of the bar?

[jbass524]

If there are adjusters at the top of the coilover they could be rubbing on the underside of the strut tower bar. Konis create this issue. Easy to chack if there is rubbing.

If this is the case, I would just remove the stock strut bars.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

If there are adjusters at the top of the coilover they could be rubbing on the underside of the strut tower bar. Konis create this issue. Easy to chack if there is rubbing.

If this is the case, I would just remove the stock strut bars.

There is definitely clearance between the adjuster and the bar. I know if I remove the strut bars, the noice should go away for sure. But I want to keep these bars to retain the reinforcement they provide.

[jbass524]

Confused. If there is clearance between the top of the CO and the strut bar the noise isn't because of that potential contact. If you know the noise is from the strut bar you're saying they are making noise somewhere else. Good luck

[HP Autosport]

Camber plates shouldn't be noisy at all.

Yes, you do feeling the jarring, but there shouldn't be any metallic like sound.

Do you hear it from both struts? While turning left or right? On compression or rebound of the suspension? Did you check your anti roll bar endlinks to make sure they are secure?

Maybe some installed photos, close ups if you can get them, may help me see obvious problems.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Camber plates shouldn't be noisy at all.

Yes, you do feeling the jarring, but there shouldn't be any metallic like sound.

Do you hear it from both struts? While turning left or right? On compression or rebound of the suspension? Did you check your anti roll bar endlinks to make sure they are secure?

Maybe some installed photos, close ups if you can get them, may help me see obvious problems.

Unfortunately, it is metallic like sound and it comes from the fix point/bolt of where both bars meet right below the windshield; so maybe transmitted both from strut towers.Occurence on turning and compression and rebound of the suspension. Anti roll bar endlinks were checked secure. Will try to get some photos posted later....thanks

[jbass524]

take the stock strut brace out to test your theory. It won't harm the car at all and is easy to do.

[DJKhan85]

Originally Posted by 335iDCT

There is definitely clearance between the adjuster and the bar. I know if I remove the strut bars, the noice should go away for sure. But I want to keep these bars to retain the reinforcement they provide.

replace the stock strut bar with the m3 strut bar and then you won't have to worry about any clearance issues.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by DJKhan85

replace the stock strut bar with the m3 strut bar and then you won't have to worry about any clearance issues.

If there is sufficient clearance between the adjuster and brace, the noise is most likely coming from else where, then transmitted through the brace to the firewall area.

The M3 strut tower brace is a good upgrade, it is stiffer and allows easy access to your adjusters and it looks cool. Let's find the source of your noise first before the upgrade.

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

If there is sufficient clearance between the adjuster and brace, the noise is most likely coming from else where, then transmitted through the brace to the firewall area.

The M3 strut tower brace is a good upgrade, it is stiffer and allows easy access to your adjusters and it looks cool. Let's find the source of your noise first before the upgrade.

Amen H.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

take the stock strut brace out to test your theory. It won't harm the car at all and is easy to do.

Yes, I'll take out the brace to see if any changes, will post my findings. Thanks guys for all your input.

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

If there is sufficient clearance between the adjuster and brace, the noise is most likely coming from else where, then transmitted through the brace to the firewall area.

The M3 strut tower brace is a good upgrade, it is stiffer and allows easy access to your adjusters and it looks cool. Let's find the source of your noise first before the upgrade.

Have the car drove for a few miles with strut braces detached, but the 'clunking' noise is still there; more obvious when turning and concentrated between strut towers and firewall.

Photo of coilover with camber plate attached.

[DJKhan85]

When turning? My guess goes towards endlink not being tight or broken.

[jbass524]

Do you have UUC swaybars?

[335iDCT]

Originally Posted by jbass524

Do you have UUC swaybars?

No, the OE swaybars. But with M3 tension rod and control link.