[QUiKSR20]

Hey Guys,

As a semi longterm custom build F30 N20 owner I have a few questions as some maint approaches ie struts/control arms / battery etc.

I have a 2013 328i with the dreaded oil pump whine ( Start/Stop Disabled since 30k miles @113k currently ), I dont have a loose chain and when the car warms
up the whine is completely gone. From what I read you can have the whine and be fine as long as you monitor it and dont have loose chains and other noises ( not sure how true that is ).

My questions :

1 - If I replace the chains/pump ( whole FCP kit ) is that the only major issue these F30 N20s see? ( car is a basic 6MT/RWD )
2 - Does the N20 need walnut blasting? I know its direct injected but I dont hear much about it

Im at the point where im getting the itch to either sell and replace my car or keep it and do some work...

I owe 0$ on it, Its pretty mint in and out and ive owned and maintained it by the book but if I keep it ill be doing the following :

• New Struts / springs / strut mounts ( all the parts needed ie strut mounts / boots etc )
• Oilpump / Timing Chain Kit
• Control Arms ( mine are worn )
• Respraying front bumper / hood ( years of commuting )..

Im asking because I really love the car but im on the fence about selling and taking my money and buying a B58
car I really want ( my car run's fine ), or keeping this car and spending the 2-3k in maint.

Thanks in advance!

[Billfitz]

The oil pump isn't a problem, the timing chain is. When the timing chain goes it usually takes out the oil pump as well. The underlying problem is the tensioner. That should be replaced ASAP. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...xoCRtkQAvD_BwE

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The oil pump isn't a problem, the timing chain is. When the timing chain goes it usually takes out the oil pump as well. The underlying problem is the tensioner. That should be replaced ASAP. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...xoCRtkQAvD_BwE

Oh damn I thought it was a two part issue ( chain & pump ), I have a pump whine like when the bearing in your alternator starts going bad but not much of any metallic sounds.. Car warms up and sound is completely gone, Ill look into that tensioner and ultimately the whole chain guide kit.

From what I can tell thats the only real major issue to look out for, That and a water pump in the future just due to age/miles.

The car has been great and mostly trouble free, Ive stayed on top of the maint which is much more manageable when you do the work yourself.. If I get the guides done though ill let my INDY take care of, I dont have the knowledge or speciality tools for that.

[Billfitz]

Most of those who replace the timing chain do the oil chain at the same time. The additional cost is minimal, so you might as well do it while you have the pan off.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Most of those who replace the timing chain do the oil chain at the same time. The additional cost is minimal, so you might as well do it while you have the pan off.

Think you meant "pump at the same time" I gotcha and figured as much, Other than that it seems to be the only major N20 issue I know of..

[Z K]

Let's not forget the valve cover oil leaks and other nuisance issues but otherwise the N20/26 is pretty reliable. If you had a 2016 328i, the chain tensioner is not an issue at all as it was updated already.

Of course newer BMW engines only get better as the B48 is a much better engine by any measurement but that's a different story.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Z K

Let's not forget the valve cover oil leaks

Thats all BMW's right lol ( ive owned a ton over the years ).

Originally Posted by Z K

and other nuisance issues but otherwise the N20/26 is pretty reliable. If you had a 2016 328i, the chain tensioner is not an issue at all as it was updated already.

Of course newer BMW engines only get better as the B48 is a much better engine by any measurement but that's a different story.

Agree, My wife has a 2018 x3 with the B48 which has been rock solid as well so far ( 78k ). My cars a 2013 so im on the fence on do I do the chains and keep it for a while longer or sell and move to a newer car..

New cars are fun but im loving no payments outside maintenance I do myself which saves a ton.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Z K

If you had a 2016 328i, the chain tensioner is not an issue at all as it was updated already.

Not until August 15. The chain was revised as of February 2015, but it was never the problem, the same chain and guides were used in the N55. Only the tensioner was different.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Not until August 15. The chain was revised as of February 2015, but it was never the problem, the same chain and guides were used in the N55. Only the tensioner was different.

It was always baffling that the N20 had this issue but not the N55 when they are essentially the same engine minus 2 cylinders.
I figured it would of came down to something with the I6 being more balanced but that was just my guess at the time when I started hearing about the issue.

[sspade]

Ride that as long as you can! If you've got the itch and money to match for an upgrade to a newer/better model then no reason to hold back, though.

I would not replace timing components preemptively. Not necessary as 99% of failures will reveal themselves acoustically, long before catastrophe.

Regardless of all the varying opinions... its impossible to replace, value wise. I'll run mine into the ground and possibly even replace with another F30, cheap and inexpensive to maintain for the right owner.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by sspade

Ride that as long as you can! If you've got the itch and money to match for an upgrade to a newer/better model then no reason to hold back, though.

I have the itch but I can restrain lol I really dont have many complaints with the car and still enjoy it so provided my engines not going to blow up im ok with it..
Its been rock solid and if it matters start/stop has been disabled since 30k and I have done all the maint + 5-6k oil changes religiously.. Like you said its pretty
easy to work on and being 6MT / Slicktop / RWD theres alot less crap to go wrong.

Originally Posted by sspade

I would not replace timing components preemptively. Not necessary as 99% of failures will reveal themselves acoustically, long before catastrophe.

I have the whine when I start it like what an alternator with a bad bearing has but ZERO Clacking or Metal on Metal sounds..
If I open the oil cap the chain feels super tight. Once the car warms up the car revs up without any noise and sounds normal.

The whine completely goes away when the car warms up.

Originally Posted by sspade

Regardless of all the varying opinions... its impossible to replace, value wise. I'll run mine into the ground and possibly even replace with another F30, cheap and inexpensive to maintain for the right owner.

You got that right, Like I was saying I got the itch but the grass isnt always greener right! For the most part
this car is in pretty damn good shape in and and out pretty quick with the tune. Being a DIY person I think you
guys gave me the bump I needed to keep it a while longer..

Before I dump some cash refreshing the suspension I wanted to see if anything changed on the oil pump front since hearing about it years ago.
The only thing im getting ready to dive into would be a suspension refresh which I would do myself.. ( springs / struts / strut mounts / control arms ( mine leaked fluid ) ).

[sqwinny]

Nothing has changed. Timing chain and all the things you remove you should refresh at the same time. Timing chain it from FCP euro has it all and makes it an easy purchase.

Vlave cover, have the fuel injectors cleaned or replaced. Otherwise standard stuff and what you have listed will be fine.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

Nothing has changed. Timing chain and all the things you remove you should refresh at the same time. Timing chain it from FCP euro has it all and makes it an easy purchase.

Vlave cover, have the fuel injectors cleaned or replaced. Otherwise standard stuff and what you have listed will be fine.

Figured as much and If anything is to be touched timing chain wise I would be getting the full FCP Kit + new oil pump because your right there. I was mostly concerned
with the oil pump stuff, but from what sspade says just ride it out and you'll hear the chain noise if it starts and that its not going to just break.

Like I was saying, I have the whiney oil pump noise that sounds like a worn bearing but I don't have any metal on metal sounds and never did. Once the car warms up the noise is gone and it revs smoothly.

If I open the oil cap the chain is tight..

Im just in the position of -

1 - Keep the car and invest in refreshing the suspension which I would do myself like all the maint I always do and risk being stuck with the car and a chain issue.

Or

2 - Selling the car now still driving good for the average person but still in need of the suspension refresh saving myself 2-3k

Provided the motor is not going to grenade I think im going to start planning the full suspension refresh... Everyone loves a new car but
damn is it good to have 0 payments.. Im still paying for our CPO '18 x3 + 2 young kids which are not cheap lol

[sqwinny]

To be fair sspade is a cheap ass. If anything you prevent what may happen or you hope nothing does. For most cars at 100k or so it’s expected to change timign chain and covers + gaskets. What you are looking to do isn’t out of the ordinary.

New OEM suspension is cheap compared to car payments. At 6-7% these days a 25k loan is around 480 a month.

Your call.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

To be fair sspade is a cheap ass. If anything you prevent what may happen or you hope nothing does. For most cars at 100k or so it’s expected to change timign chain and covers + gaskets. What you are looking to do isn’t out of the ordinary.

In the German car world I guess, But coming from Nissans many moons ago timing chains lasted forever and nobody ever talked about ever having to change a chain ( belt of course but not chains )...
Even my E36 chain at 30 years is fine with just a new tensioner but I hear ya, If I start to hear more than just the pump whine it wont be ignored.. I know in our cars the long oil change intervals didnt help, Thankfully ive always done 5-6k max and im very good on my maint just had an "ah hah moment" on whether to invest in this car or move on..

After some small convos here though I think im just going to put in some maint.. The car has been rock solid and still looks new outside of rock chips from commuting to work..

Originally Posted by sqwinny

New OEM suspension is cheap compared to car payments. At 6-7% these days a 25k loan is around 480 a month.

Your call.

1000% agree on the suspension stuff as well as the car payments ( Still paying for the wifes CPO x3 )

[QUiKSR20]

Out of all the threads and videos I have found, This one seems to explain why the crap happens in the first place on N20s and not N55's..
I always wondered if they are kinda the same design why does it only happen to N20s..

It makes alot of sense now -

[Billfitz]

Note where he says that eventually the chain stretches enough so that the tensioner is no longer able to put adequate tension on the chain. It would seem that the new design tensioner is able to do so. Logically BMW thought that the original tensioner was OK, and only found out later that it wasn't, at which point they redesigned it. I'm painfully aware of the situation as I researched various cars for a year before pulling the trigger on my 2015. There was no mention of N20 timing chain problems on the forums until mid 2015, four years after the N20 appeared. If I'd known of it in January 2015 I might have paid the extra for an N55. Of course my car was produced two months before they upgraded the chain.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Note where he says that eventually the chain stretches enough so that the tensioner is no longer able to put adequate tension on the chain. It would seem that the new design tensioner is able to do so. Logically BMW thought that the original tensioner was OK, and only found out later that it wasn't, at which point they redesigned it. I'm painfully aware of the situation as I researched various cars for a year before pulling the trigger on my 2015. There was no mention of N20 timing chain problems on the forums until mid 2015, four years after the N20 appeared. If I'd known of it in January 2015 I might have paid the extra for an N55. Of course my car was produced two months before they upgraded the chain.

Im right there with ya, I would of just spent a few bucks more, but it seems once the chains are done theres not many other big ticket items going south.