[cossie1]

Originally Posted by AnonymousUser

But if we get the Bimmertech update some day, then all of you who bought the cheap chinese units will get an expensive bimmertech unit

We don't want fake bimmertech units, were happy with the genuine Andream ones

[Firefly1337]

Originally Posted by cossie1

Number in the previous post updated. Should work now

Thanks. I wonder what the best practice will be. Probably a good idea not to contact that guy all at once? ^^

Originally Posted by jacobtc

Just a quick question. Did the problem with the Andream box presenting itself as HU-ENTRY, making coding impossiblem, efter get fixed?

Only thing I heard are the reports of the problem itself here in the thread. I haven't tried to code my own HU yet.

Originally Posted by AnonymousUser

Yes i updated MCU to, also tried to run the update multiple times to see if the text would dissappear but no success.

Actually the text does not bother me, coz i am never in the main menu. Always go directly to carplay or BMW iDrive for radio.

But if we get the Bimmertech update some day, then all of you who bought the cheap chinese units will get an expensive bimmertech unit

Very interesting and funny
Good to know that it works.
Have you contacted Bimmertech again for the update? I'd love to take a look at it with binwalk.

I opened up my box today, pictures of the PCB below. I also managed to remove the heatsink from my CPU.
It is indeed the Sunplus SoC that we researched before. Although the printed number on it says 'SPHE8368', the Sunplus website states 'SPHE8368 is pin-compatible with SPHE8388' and 'SPHE8388' is the id mentioned in ISPBOOOT.BIN.

That prominently visible but empty 8-pin header is for the MCU by the way. The model number is STM32F105RB and with the help of the datasheet (and Kri ) I managed to identify a couple of pins. I attached that pic as well.

[cossie1]

Originally Posted by Firefly1337

Thanks. I wonder what the best practice will be. Probably a good idea not to contact that guy all at once? ^^



Only thing I heard are the reports of the problem itself here in the thread. I haven't tried to code my own HU yet.



Very interesting and funny
Good to know that it works.
Have you contacted Bimmertech again for the update? I'd love to take a look at it with binwalk.

I opened up my box today, pictures of the PCB below. I also managed to remove the heatsink from my CPU.
It is indeed the Sunplus SoC that we researched before. Although the printed number on it says 'SPHE8368', the Sunplus website states 'SPHE8368 is pin-compatible with SPHE8388' and 'SPHE8388' is the id mentioned in ISPBOOOT.BIN.

That prominently visible but empty 8-pin header is for the MCU by the way. The model number is STM32F105RB and with the help of the datasheet (and Kri ) I managed to identify a couple of pins. I attached that pic as well.

Looks like Bimmertech lied then when they posted to say there unit is not the same.

The ONLY difference I have noticed so far, as the Bimmertech has a Toshiba TSOP on the bottom of the board and the Andream has a Spansion TSOP

[floc]

about bimmertech... https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6#post25624806

[cossie1]

Originally Posted by Firefly1337

Thanks. I wonder what the best practice will be. Probably a good idea not to contact that guy all at once? ^^

I am speaking to him now, about the carplay device creating fault codes, and not being able to clear them unless back in the i-drive. I have also mentioned about the carplay device taking over control of the screen when you start the car, even if you have the radio on in the i-drive.

So far he's asked for pictures of the fault codes (which I have sent him).

But I have a feeling he's going to be hard work.

Maybe it would be a good idea to create a whatsapp group with him, rather than everyone contact 1 on 1 ?

[cossie1]

So I removed my Carplay device yesterday as the car had to go into BMW today for a service and I didn't want any issue's with fault codes that wouldn't clear, or anything to stop them from being able to update the service history on the i-drive.

Removing it was simple enough (although refitting the quadlock connector was a pain).

Anyway these arrived today, ready for when I refit the Carplay box.

RHD cars have the USB connector on the left of the trim panel, and LHD cars have it on the right for some reason.









I also ordered both the adaptors that I linked to in a previous post:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-2-0-A...53.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12cm-Shor...53.m2749.l2649

The double ended adaptor arrived first, so I test fitted it.

I trimmed a little of the rubber with a blade, so that it would sit in far enough.









It pushes up tight, to where I have trimmed too, which should keep it in place just as it is, but I might add a dab of glue before I fit it to the car (I will be testing the other adaptor cable first, when it arrives).

[jacobtc]

To anyone that has this installed. Does this still disable coding the car? What about the Bimmertech module, does that also make it impossible to code it? I'm going to install the Andream box soon, and having to reconnect everything back to stock when going to service would be a hassle, as the box will be inbetween the headunit and glovebox.

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by jacobtc

To anyone that has this installed. Does this still disable coding the car? What about the Bimmertech module, does that also make it impossible to code it? I'm going to install the Andream box soon, and having to reconnect everything back to stock when going to service would be a hassle, as the box will be inbetween the headunit and glovebox.

I am able to code the HU (HU_Entrynav) with the mmi installed; but I have seen posts from others that are not able to do so.

However the mmi does trigger an HU error code on my scan tool...something about an invalid image, etc. The dealer will be able to see the error code if they check.

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by cossie1

So I removed my Carplay device yesterday as the car had to go into BMW today for a service and I didn't want any issue's with fault codes that wouldn't clear, or anything to stop them from being able to update the service history on the i-drive.

Removing it was simple enough (although refitting the quadlock connector was a pain).

Anyway these arrived today, ready for when I refit the Carplay box.

RHD cars have the USB connector on the left of the trim panel, and LHD cars have it on the right for some reason.

I also ordered both the adaptors that I linked to in a previous post:

The double ended adaptor arrived first, so I test fitted it.

I trimmed a little of the rubber with a blade, so that it would sit in far enough.


It pushes up tight, to where I have trimmed too, which should keep it in place just as it is, but I might add a dab of glue before I fit it to the car (I will be testing the other adaptor cable first, when it arrives).

I ended up wrapping a small zip tie around the trim piece receptable with the coupling inserted. That so far has held it in place with no issues. The glue didn't hold very well.

[cossie1]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I ended up wrapping a small zip tie around the trim piece receptable with the coupling inserted. That so far has held it in place with no issues. The glue didn't hold very well.

I was thinking of just putting some epoxy resin where I have marked it in red on both sides.



My thinking being that it should hold it tight enough, but if you wanted, you could force it apart in future.

How do you have it zip tied though ?

[muniz_ri]

Originally Posted by cossie1

I was thinking of just putting some epoxy resin where I have marked it in red on both sides.

My thinking being that it should hold it tight enough, but if you wanted, you could force it apart in future.

How do you have it zip tied though ?

Epoxy would definately hold it in place. I used some cheap clear cement that I had laying around. Anyway, I zip tied like this:

[floc]

I did something similar, carved the plastic surroundign the connector to fit che bmw connector lock

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...4#post25417914

a good cutter, some glue and a bit of patience and you're ok

[ce23]

Originally Posted by ce23

Any chance to get the USB trim piece for the F20?

Any news if the centerstack trim piece with a hole for a USB port is available for the F20?

[jacobtc]

Originally Posted by ce23

Any news if the centerstack trim piece with a hole for a USB port is available for the F20?

Doesn't seem like it https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8368

[jacobtc]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

I am able to code the HU (HU_Entrynav) with the mmi installed; but I have seen posts from others that are not able to do so.

However the mmi does trigger an HU error code on my scan tool...something about an invalid image, etc. The dealer will be able to see the error code if they check.

Im guessing this is due to you not having NBT? I'm going to install it in the weekend and I will check with Bimmercode afterwards.

[cossie1]

Originally Posted by cossie1

So I removed my Carplay device yesterday as the car had to go into BMW today for a service and I didn't want any issue's with fault codes that wouldn't clear, or anything to stop them from being able to update the service history on the i-drive.

Removing it was simple enough (although refitting the quadlock connector was a pain).

Anyway these arrived today, ready for when I refit the Carplay box.

RHD cars have the USB connector on the left of the trim panel, and LHD cars have it on the right for some reason.









I also ordered both the adaptors that I linked to in a previous post:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-2-0-A...53.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12cm-Shor...53.m2749.l2649

The double ended adaptor arrived first, so I test fitted it.

I trimmed a little of the rubber with a blade, so that it would sit in far enough.









It pushes up tight, to where I have trimmed too, which should keep it in place just as it is, but I might add a dab of glue before I fit it to the car (I will be testing the other adaptor cable first, when it arrives).

Ok following on from this, the other adaptor cable arrived today.

So I test fitted it.

Was initially too big and wouldn't fit into the facia.

So a quick trim with a blade on both sides and it fits better than the 1st adaptor (no need to trim the top or bottom).

Night tight fit, but lines up perfectly.

It won't need any glue to hold it, although I might use a zip tie anyway just to be sure.

Also has the advantage of being a shorter connector, so less sticking out of the back and you can angle the cable where you want it.

[yoon_209]

does it work for 2013 f30 with CIC?

[drejcof]

Originally Posted by drejcof

Hello.
I also have Andream MMI box with one big problem. There is no sound from carplay system. Everything other works, except audio. Any idea, what could be wrong?

I received a new power cord with aux output. Now the sound works.

I have one question about the Autolink connection. Can you change the aspect ratio or screen resolution to make the image full screen? I have a 6.7 inch Samsung Galaxy A70 with a resolution of 1080 x 2400 pixels. BMW, however, has a 6.5-inch display and 800x480 resolution.

[ce23]

Originally Posted by jacobtc

Doesn't seem like it https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8368

Thats what I thought... Would have been great to keep the look as OEM as possible.

[jacobtc]

Originally Posted by ce23

Thats what I thought... Would have been great to keep the look as OEM as possible.

I'm going to use Wireless Android Auto, so I will tuck the cable behind that bottom trim, so I can still access it when needing to update it.
The only problem I see in having the box installed, is that it needs to be removed every time I go to get the car serviced, due to the coding not working.

[fantanas]

What is the verdict about service history? Can it be updated with the box installed?

[jacobtc]

Originally Posted by fantanas

What is the verdict about service history? Can it be updated with the box installed?

What I've gathered, no. Service history is written to the headunit, and if the Andream box interrupts the signal, then no. This is one of the major drawbacks of the box IMO.