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      06-10-2016, 04:41 PM   #45
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mine broke at the TB today while driving to lunch. I'll have BMW come get the car tomorrow.

But I have a question. This charge pipe looks to be a solid piece of brittle plastic that directly connects to the TB. No silicone boot with t-bolts... no rubber, nothing. just direct connects, hard part to hard part.
Down at the intercooler, is it a direct plastic to intercooler connections as well? Is the intercooler mounted to the chassis?

What I actually think is happening (and I may be off my rocker) but the combination of the stop/start of the motor, plus the twist of the motor in everyday motoring, could be putting too much stress on the connection area (s), thus the cracking. Perhaps this explains why stock cars have this problem as well... I don't know.
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      06-10-2016, 10:17 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhlh
mine broke at the TB today while driving to lunch. I'll have BMW come get the car tomorrow.

But I have a question. This charge pipe looks to be a solid piece of brittle plastic that directly connects to the TB. No silicone boot with t-bolts... no rubber, nothing. just direct connects, hard part to hard part.
Down at the intercooler, is it a direct plastic to intercooler connections as well? Is the intercooler mounted to the chassis?

What I actually think is happening (and I may be off my rocker) but the combination of the stop/start of the motor, plus the twist of the motor in everyday motoring, could be putting too much stress on the connection area (s), thus the cracking. Perhaps this explains why stock cars have this problem as well... I don't know.
It's part of the issue yes no doubt. The piece up by the throttle body is plastic welded with a denser plastic and it's where the failures are from twisting. Either the weld breaks or the clamp housing bridges break off.

Could be the added boost or the theory you just posted. Either case the failures are real.
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      06-15-2016, 09:45 PM   #47
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This is painfully difficult for me to do because I hate being wrong, but I know when to eat crow and now is that time. You were all right, and I was wrong, I concede defeat, my charge pipe blew tonight. Luckily I was only a mile from home so I could easily limp it home.

Let me have it, I deserve it.

Mike - You warned me and I did not listen, therefore you are the first person I am reaching out to for a replacement, you should have an e-mail in your inbox from me.
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      06-15-2016, 09:47 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
This is painfully difficult for me to do because I hate being wrong, but I know when to eat crow and now is that time. You were all right, and I was wrong, I concede defeat, my charge pipe blew tonight. Luckily I was only a mile from home so I could easily limp it home.

Let me have it, I deserve it.

Mike - You warned me and I did not listen, therefore you are the first person I am reaching out to for a replacement, you should have an e-mail in your inbox from me.

Need a hug? .


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      06-16-2016, 07:17 AM   #49
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Need a hug? .


.
No, but I could use a ride to work! j/k

I just ordered my pipe from Mike, he should be able to get it to me within a few days. Luckily, I am very fortunate to have another vehicle in the household that I can drive until it shows up.
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      06-16-2016, 07:19 AM   #50
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So, more information on what failed..

My assumption was that the pipe failed due to OUTWARD pressure perpendicular to the throttle body, thus my logic for reinforcing the clip. However, that is not the case, the additional pressure pushes the charge pipe AWAY from the throttle body, putting significant stress on the very thin plastic edges of the charge pipe, there truly is NO WAY to reinforce that area, especially when running 18.5 psi on Map 7
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      06-16-2016, 08:35 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by ronanz View Post
Need a hug? .


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Cyber Hug sent LOL

And FEDEX will be bringing him a new CP. We keep these in stock just for this reason

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      06-16-2016, 08:36 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
So, more information on what failed..

My assumption was that the pipe failed due to OUTWARD pressure perpendicular to the throttle body, thus my logic for reinforcing the clip. However, that is not the case, the additional pressure pushes the charge pipe AWAY from the throttle body, putting significant stress on the very thin plastic edges of the charge pipe, there truly is NO WAY to reinforce that area, especially when running 18.5 psi on Map 7
You have pic of failure point?

Mike
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      06-16-2016, 09:15 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
You have pic of failure point?

Mike
I do! As with most others, it failed at the throttle body. I estimated that, at 3 inches in diameter (7 sq in of surface area), the outward pressure at 18 lbs of boost is approximately 126 lbs of force being held by the very thin pieces of plastic on the sides of the charge pipe, that is why it fails. In fact, it the blowout was so forceful that it separated the bracket on the pipe from the mounting bracket on the motor (sorry, didn't take a picture of that).

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      06-16-2016, 09:54 AM   #54
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Do you have the C-Clip? If not you will need one of those as well with the CP.

Mike
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      06-16-2016, 10:10 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
Do you have the C-Clip? If not you will need one of those as well with the CP.

Mike
Yes, luckily the rubber and hose clamps I used to TRY and reinforce the connection kept that in place. I understand that is a VERY expensive piece of "wire" (est. $30)
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      06-16-2016, 10:42 AM   #56
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During my times with a stock charge pipe, i was lucky to not have my stock charge pipe blow on me. When i had my stock charge pipe, i had jb4, catless downpipe, mpe exhaust, with bms intake. I ran map 2 then went to map 5 with e30 mix, did full throttle pulls from dig, burnouts to full throttle exit, pulls from 2nd, 3rd, brake boosting, etc without any issues. One day i found a charge pipe with anodized coat for good price so i took that, and installed it myself without a problem. Def. Recommend purchasing a chargepipe. When comparing the two, the er chargepipe helps my car run a little cooler compared to the stock one. Also it helps me drive hard without having myself worry about my stock charge pipe.
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      06-16-2016, 11:20 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
This is painfully difficult for me to do because I hate being wrong, but I know when to eat crow and now is that time. You were all right, and I was wrong, I concede defeat, my charge pipe blew tonight. Luckily I was only a mile from home so I could easily limp it home.

Let me have it, I deserve it.

Mike - You warned me and I did not listen, therefore you are the first person I am reaching out to for a replacement, you should have an e-mail in your inbox from me.
Yeah, I stop insisting when it gets to the point when a person is stubborn and won't listen to advice from others that have had the same experience, I let them see for themselves so they learn from it. Which you did, I hope. Everytime I have given advice to someone, I get ignored and when it happens (it always has) they come back to apologize and I don't mind helping them out from there, I believe the best way to change someone is to let them learn for themselves.

I won't tell you "I told you so" (lol just did) but I hope you take our advice and the sponsored vendors on here, most of us are here to share our builds, stories and get advice and help on certain parts to improve our cars.

But other than that, there's a reason why all cars who run high boost have a full metal system to make sure they get the most airflow and nothing will explode.
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      06-16-2016, 11:50 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaungo View Post
Yeah, I stop insisting when it gets to the point when a person is stubborn and won't listen to advice from others that have had the same experience, I let them see for themselves so they learn from it. Which you did, I hope. Everytime I have given advice to someone, I get ignored and when it happens (it always has) they come back to apologize and I don't mind helping them out from there, I believe the best way to change someone is to let them learn for themselves.

I won't tell you "I told you so" (lol just did) but I hope you take our advice and the sponsored vendors on here, most of us are here to share our builds, stories and get advice and help on certain parts to improve our cars.

But other than that, there's a reason why all cars who run high boost have a full metal system to make sure they get the most airflow and nothing will explode.
I have been humbled.

I appreciate the continued support, this forum has been a wealth of information for me from my previous E90 335i through now, I should heed the experience and advice from others rather than assuming I know better.
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      06-16-2016, 12:03 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
I have been humbled.

I appreciate the continued support, this forum has been a wealth of information for me from my previous E90 335i through now, I should heed the experience and advice from others rather than assuming I know better.



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      06-16-2016, 12:36 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
I have been humbled.

I appreciate the continued support, this forum has been a wealth of information for me from my previous E90 335i through now, I should heed the experience and advice from others rather than assuming I know better.
It's a great attitude that you have though, massive respect from me as it's not easy to admit your mistakes

Other than that, Since you're running 18.5psi, did you upgrade your DV and get a TIC chargepipe? Might as well do both at the same time as the it'll help give you constant boost.
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      07-16-2016, 04:23 PM   #61
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Modified T-Clamp for lightly boosted

I have been running the MPPK for about 5 months and a couple of days ago I added the Dinantronics SPORT (set to Sport+)

I did not feel the need to upgrade the charge pipe for the MPPK and my charge pipe has been fine for the 5 months I have had the MPPK installed.

I totally forgot about the charge pipe when I added the Dinantronics SPORT.

As an interim measure, I installed a modified 4" T-clamp to reduce the point loads on the plastic charge pipe at the c-clip/lock clip.



I will try this setup until the OEM charge pipe fails.

Larry
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      07-16-2016, 07:31 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylam646 View Post
I have been running the MPPK for about 5 months and a couple of days ago I added the Dinantronics SPORT (set to Sport+)

I did not feel the need to upgrade the charge pipe for the MPPK and my charge pipe has been fine for the 5 months I have had the MPPK installed.

I totally forgot about the charge pipe when I added the Dinantronics SPORT.

As an interim measure, I installed a modified 4" T-clamp to reduce the point loads on the plastic charge pipe at the c-clip/lock clip.



I will try this setup until the OEM charge pipe fails.

Larry
The C-clip and o-ring allow some motion on the charge pipe. I fear that your solution will actually cause a failure much faster as you have essentially removed any wiggle room that was designed into the system and are translating any forces into the charge pipe. The T-bolt clamp is also compressing the plastic in a way it was not designed for.

I personally would remove that clamp ASAP.

Mike
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      07-16-2016, 07:59 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
The C-clip and o-ring allow some motion on the charge pipe. I fear that your solution will actually cause a failure much faster as you have essentially removed any wiggle room that was designed into the system and are translating any forces into the charge pipe. The T-bolt clamp is also compressing the plastic in a way it was not designed for.

I personally would remove that clamp ASAP.

Mike


Why can't people not be cheap and just buy the damn ER chargepipe? It's literally a cheap 3-400$ fix, yet people are cheaping out on their 50k car, like really guys? Do people not learn from other's mistakes? Read up at that guy who tried to reinforce the chargepipe and failed.
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      07-16-2016, 08:18 PM   #64
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Thank You Mike for your reply.

I did not realize the charge pipe required some play with the throttle body.

I thought the design of the pipe (ie. corrugation) would accommodate for vibration and engine movement.

I have removed the t-clamp.

Thank again!

Larry
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      06-27-2018, 02:46 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTepper View Post
I do! As with most others, it failed at the throttle body. I estimated that, at 3 inches in diameter (7 sq in of surface area), the outward pressure at 18 lbs of boost is approximately 126 lbs of force being held by the very thin pieces of plastic on the sides of the charge pipe, that is why it fails. In fact, it the blowout was so forceful that it separated the bracket on the pipe from the mounting bracket on the motor (sorry, didn't take a picture of that).

Did you install the new charge pipe yourself? If not, could you say what the install cost? I was with you all the way on trying to reinforce mine until I can get a new FMIC to go with the new charge pipe. $$$$
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      06-27-2018, 02:58 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaungo View Post


Why can't people not be cheap and just buy the damn ER chargepipe? It's literally a cheap 3-400$ fix, yet people are cheaping out on their 50k car, like really guys? Do people not learn from other's mistakes? Read up at that guy who tried to reinforce the chargepipe and failed.
actually the VRSF pipe for $219 works just fine... absolutely no reason not to change it out...
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