07-20-2013, 12:58 AM | #67 |
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I've got about 4200 miles on the odometer, and 4 months on the clock, and it seems in the last week my 328ix has gotten noticeably peppier, and not in a bad way.
Same gas, the only change in driving habits were a couple of runs to Seatac airport this week (~30 miles at freeway speeds), and a 600 mile drive last weekend instead of my usual shorter drives around town. Does the onboard computer let off the chains at some point to rev up the performance? Or does around town driving give my car stodgy habits?
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Last edited by JohnVidale; 07-20-2013 at 10:39 AM.. Reason: corrected mileage |
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07-20-2013, 03:59 AM | #68 |
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07-20-2013, 06:53 AM | #69 | |
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Last edited by Bimmerfestool; 07-20-2013 at 01:14 PM.. |
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07-20-2013, 07:55 AM | #70 | |
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If you ran that engine under load and high RPM, there was a good chance the increased heat produced by the load (more fuel/air per minute) would cause the piston to expand to an extent that the engine seized (heat seize). Not good because it scuffs the piston skirts and potentially the bore too. However running in slowly would ensure the parts would be worn away in a more controlled fashion, eliminating the problem. The other issue, was that the particles being worn off contaminated the oil. The same oil used as a bearing would be filled with metallic particles, causing secondary damage. This made an early oil change very important. A mixture of modern oils, oil filtration, materials and machining tolerances (Not to mention the universal adoption of the Japanese size grading system), means that 'running in' is no longer as important as it once was. After all, many of the engine surfaces are actually running in a film of oil, no metal on metal contact at all. Is it still required at all? Well that is a good question. I understand that most European engines are run on an engine dyno prior to fitting in a car, mainly to check for leaks, but they are subject to a full power run. Which in it's own way is a 'quality' measure. Cheaper to do it this way than find out once it is in a car at the end of the production line. You can see why manufacturers still list a running in procedure, but is this for an engineering requirement, or a limit liability requirement? Certainly there are systems like brakes, and even tyre release oils that need to be 'run in'. It would be a good idea for new owners to 'take it easy' until they got used to the car (I understand that a large proportion of supercar accidents happen within the first days of new ownership). |
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07-20-2013, 07:59 AM | #71 |
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Took delivery of my 328i the other day. CA told me there is no break in period.
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07-20-2013, 01:12 PM | #72 | |
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07-21-2013, 03:05 PM | #73 |
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Your CA is obviously ignorant of manufacturer recommendations. My CA made sure I knew about taking it easy for the 1st 1200 miles even though I've purchased 3 cars from him in prior years. It's just common sense.
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09-10-2013, 04:18 PM | #74 | |
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The BMW break-in recommendations are so generic, vague and lacking in prominence that it's hard to believe that there's really any merit to strictly adhering to their recommendations to baby the car for a full 1200 miles. In terms of the "conventional wisdom" out there, it seems that half of it contradicts the other half... e.g. "keep it under 4500rpm with conservative throttle inputs and speed" kinda negates "flooring it to burnish piston rings" ... same with "break it in how you plan to drive it" vs. "baby it all the way to 1200 miles" I guess what I'll do with my soon-to-be-delivered 335i is pretty much the same process that I did on my last 3 BMWs (2 of which I've kept for 125k+ miles)... that is, drive gently with varying speeds, etc., for the first ~500 miles, then gradually ramp up to full attack mode over the next ~500 miles.
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11-13-2013, 11:03 AM | #75 |
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Hey guys I have a question, my car is in break in period but that other day I passed 3k rpm on 2nd gear by fault, I avoid idling and letting the car to warm on idle, I always maintain shifts at about 1.8-2.2 max with max speed 60 mph at high way.. I'm afraid that I might did some damage
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11-13-2013, 11:29 AM | #76 | |
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There is no need to be overly cautious. I just got my F32 and I am one of those who does believe in a break-in period. And my car has been in idle for many minutes the first couple of days while playing with all the settings. As for the revs, you actually want to vary it up to about 4000 rpm. So a few strong accelerations will do no harm and will actually be beneficial. Driving at constant revs or low revs throughout the entire break-in period is not recommended. Enjoy your car. It is a performance machine and wants to be driven like one. |
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11-13-2013, 12:02 PM | #77 | |
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11-13-2013, 02:04 PM | #78 | |
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I believe the general consensus is that you do NOT need a post break in oil change. This was more important for old cars that really released a lot of metal crud. You should be fine until you need to do your first scheduled oil change. If you truly feel that you have poor quality oil then change it for your peace of mind but unnecessary to change it immediately after break-in. |
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11-13-2013, 03:54 PM | #79 | |
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12-21-2013, 05:01 AM | #81 |
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I will get my new car next week.
When I asked my dealer here in Campinas, Brazil, he said that there was no break-in period for the 2013/14 320i Activeflex. But I will see what the manual says, and follow the advices given in this thread anyway. I guess I will not push it before the engine is warm, and then do a little of everything for the first 2000km and change oil after 1000km. that's my conclusion from reading this thread, on what to do to be on the safe side. Did I miss anything? |
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12-28-2013, 11:33 AM | #82 |
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I picked up a 2014 335xi last week and the sales agent indicated there was no break in period. Sure enough when I checked the manual it was clearly written what the break in was.
So far I have about 500km on it and aside from the test drive I've managed to keep it under 4,500rpm. If you keep it in comfort mode it isn't too hard to keep it under the 4,500 mark I think if it's in the manual it's likely there for a reason and you can't do no harm sticking to it. |
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07-08-2015, 08:02 AM | #84 | |
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Caught in between what the handbook says, what the BMW dealership say and what friends/forums also contribute, I'm bloody confused. So I see no harm really in just driving the car how I normally do - so letting it warm up properly before going anywhere near 4500rpm, and fluctuating the engine load and revs in a full fashion, but in a gradual way - not smashing up and down the gears and stamping the throttle wide open all the time. |
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07-08-2015, 08:56 PM | #85 |
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Aside from brakes and tires, I suspect BMW also wants new owners to become familiar with the dynamics of the car before flogging it.
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