06-13-2020, 05:15 PM | #23 |
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Thanks for all the feedback everyone, it is appreciated.
One more question, for those that have the R&T installed, how have they held up? Anyone had to do a rebuild yet? I see Ohlins recommends "maintenance" every 60k miles. |
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06-13-2020, 11:19 PM | #25 | |
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06-13-2020, 11:40 PM | #26 | ||
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06-14-2020, 01:11 PM | #27 | |
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This was to try and cure a persistent knocking from the front suspension which has only become a problem since fitting Milway top mounts and the Ohlins R&T. The Milway plates have since been remanufactured to take an uprated monoball although the original monoball was found to be zero defect - it was still as tight as the day it was fitted. [EDIT - specifically, I had the Millway camber plates on my car modified to utilise a substantially upgraded monoball - however, when the components were switched and we examining the Millway monoball at 7K miles there was no evidence of any wear] Attention then turned to the R&T dampers. These were stripped, the nylon guide bushes were checked (and confirmed to be the previous style - not the newer design which have caused noise problems), and rebuilt. There was some discolouration on the outer surfaces of the inverted monotubes, most likely due to heat from track days, and this was skimmed off using a lathe. Apart from that the dampers were given a clear health check. Unfortunately the noise persists. I haven't been able to rule-out valve knock as the source of the noise. The only way would be to have my BMW Adaptive dampers refitted, with all other suspension components remaining the same, as a back-to-back test. Suspension noise has been reported by several people who have installed R&T, but to my knowledge no-one has found the 100% reliable source and a 100% guranteed fix. Installing Milway 'street' plates would almost certainly cure the problem, by isolating the sound from the chassis. My hesitancy comes from this solution relying on a poly washer, rather than a monoball, to allow articulation of the damper piston rod relative to the suspension turret and that's something which I currently prefer to avoid. That's just my preference though. A friend has the street version fitted to his M4 (running AC Schnitzer RS, which is apparently a re-valved version of KW V3) and he hasn't mentioned anything about knocking. Maybe that means the street plates are isolating NVH, or maybe the KW V3 dampers are quieter. Who knows.
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Last edited by Watsey; 06-16-2020 at 01:54 AM.. Reason: clarification - see [EDIT...] |
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06-15-2020, 10:09 AM | #28 | |
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06-15-2020, 10:12 AM | #29 | |
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06-15-2020, 10:55 AM | #30 | ||
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06-15-2020, 02:10 PM | #31 | ||
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Sway bars control body motion; the reduced grip with more bar is a function of reducing the loading on the outside tire. Retrofitting a VERY weak OE rear sway bar to pair with a strong aftermarket front sway bar in order to compensate for Ohlins specing the front springs too light (based on development for a 320d) would be like cranking down on your shoe laces in one show to hold your foot in place instead of starting with the correct size pair of shoes to begin with. Sway bar strength is the LAST thing to dial in, in order to fine tune handling; it's not a replacement for proper spring rates.
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06-15-2020, 03:24 PM | #32 | |
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The monoballs are tight, i.e. absolutely no wear, the camber plates are secure in the suspension turrets and the sliding plate is also securely fixed. There's no slop in the components which could be causing the knocking - it's definitely coming from somewhere else.
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06-15-2020, 05:12 PM | #33 | |
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06-15-2020, 07:54 PM | #34 | |
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I think you're confused by what I mean by 'adjusting' sway bars... I mean making fine adjustments to bars that are adjustable, not retrofitting weak OE street bars back onto the car. And I definitely wouldn't recommend a strong front bar like the H&R, with a spaghetti-thin OE rear sway bar that was designed for a plush ride on the street. The improved motion control that my H&R sway bars provide is better suited to a firmer, upgraded suspension, so I would never consider spending 10+ hours removing upgraded sway bars, and retrofitting OEM weak sway bars based on a handling quirk that was introduced by a kit with too light of a front spring. I feel like I'm repeating myself here. The OP asked for advise on front spring rates from those with experience with the Ohlins kit... so I jumped in to share what I've learned. The Ohlins are a fantastic coil over, with exceptional flexibility for varied spring rates within the valving. For the money, it's a really outstanding kit.... it just needs a stiffer front spring for a 335
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06-15-2020, 09:41 PM | #35 |
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How did the corner weight analysis point to higher front spring rate? My understanding (which may well be incomplete) is that corner weighting is purely a static measurement and thus is not affected by spring rates. Ride height changes will affect corner weights, but changing springs while maintaining ride height will not affect corner weights (ignoring change in mass because of the different springs).
Of course, accurate corner weights are very helpful in calculating ride frequencies. I suspect that even for a 335 the ride frequencies would point towards keeping the standard front Ohlins spring rate to maintain a good delta between front and rear frequencies (unless you are looking to change both front and rear springs). It's an important point to understand for the OP looking at the Ohlins coilovers! |
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06-15-2020, 11:49 PM | #36 | ||||
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This, we agree.
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06-16-2020, 09:26 AM | #37 |
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I said 'corner weight analysis', but what I really meant was the motion ratio calculations that the Swift spring engineer performed, using corner weights, force ratios, angle correction factors, etc. The result was that an 8kg front spring was the right match for a 16kg rear spring on an F30 335.
Sorry, but I'm done with this discussion guys.... I've tried to offer my input to help, but this thread has taken a strange turn. If you guys all have your minds made up to stick with 6kg springs in front on this kit, then so be it.
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06-16-2020, 10:52 PM | #38 |
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Hi Guys, I'm in the midst of getting myself Ohlins R&T to replace the stock adaptive M. Just curious is anyone running on 20"s wheels on this coilovers? I'm on 405m with 235/35 & 265/30, was wondering will the ride be jarring?
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06-17-2020, 04:18 AM | #39 | |
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Whatever you do, and hopefully you have already, get rid of the run flat tyres. The UK agents for AC Schnitzer advise 20s only for looks; 19s for ride and handling. My car is running 19s with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S XL (stiffer sidewalls) and the ride is firm but fine.
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06-17-2020, 09:22 PM | #40 | |
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Last edited by Freakystein; 06-18-2020 at 01:28 AM.. |
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06-19-2020, 11:21 AM | #41 |
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Can anyone confirm the lowering range? I emailed Ohlins directly and got the following reply: "The lowering is at the front 5-25mm and the rear 0-30mm [as compared to the normal 3 model]".
However, the front mounting instructions state: "With both the preload and height adjustments in their standard positions, the vehicle is lowered approximately 20mm when compared to the original suspension...The adjustment range is the standard position -5/+15mm." Wouldn't this put the front range lowering range at 15-35mm against standard suspension? |
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06-19-2020, 06:46 PM | #42 |
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I wish I could fit these to xdrive.
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F30 335iX | Remus Axleback | Fabspeed Catted DP | VRSF Comp IC | 18X9 ET35 19lb MT1 | 255/40/18 ECS | Ohlins RT Millway Street | Millway Control Arm Bushings | Turner Endlinks | TMH 75mm 14x1.5 Studs | BMW MPerf LSD | XDelete | Pipercross Filter | MHD Stg2 93
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07-06-2020, 04:11 AM | #43 |
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Hi guys, prior to the installation of my Ohlins on the F30, is there any hardware i need that i need to change since i'll be change from the EDC to coilovers?
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07-06-2020, 10:45 AM | #44 |
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You'll need another left (US Driver's Side) end link. EDC RWD cars have different L/R end links, and passive setups use the same left end link on both sides.
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