[Davidschu]

Just installed my catless vrsf downpipe and flashed stage 2 91. Went to the map customization and selected the the part that allows you to delete the CEL due to o2. Flashed it and cleared codes. The CEL went away for maybe 5 seconds then came back.

This may be a dumb question but I removed the stock downpipe along with the two o2 sensors. So the connection on the top of the engine I taped off and the two o2 sensors are still installed in my stock downpipe which is no longer in my car obviously. Was I supposed to reinstall the o2 sensors into my catless downpipe? Is that why the CEL won't go away? Thanks

[indyjoeshmo]

You need your upstream O2 sensor at minimum for closed loop fueling control, and should probably leave both installed.

[n55david]

Originally Posted by Davidschu

Just installed my catless vrsf downpipe and flashed stage 2 91. Went to the map customization and selected the the part that allows you to delete the CEL due to o2. Flashed it and cleared codes. The CEL went away for maybe 5 seconds then came back.

This may be a dumb question but I removed the stock downpipe along with the two o2 sensors. So the connection on the top of the engine I taped off and the two o2 sensors are still installed in my stock downpipe which is no longer in my car obviously. Was I supposed to reinstall the o2 sensors into my catless downpipe? Is that why the CEL won't go away? Thanks

Yes, they need to be in the exhaust and plugged in.

[Davidschu]

Well that's a little disappointing. Was hoping I wouldn't have to put the car back up on stands and remove the downpipe again. Could I just plug them in but not connect them to the downpipe?

[indyjoeshmo]

Your fuel economy will be junk because your O2 sensor provides feedback to the ECM on air fuel ratio. It is one of the most important sensors on the car.

[Davidschu]

Well I guess that answers it. Thought going catless also meant I could dump the sensors. Weight reduction right lol. Car didn't seem to be running great today so I guess I should put the sensor back in place.

I've always enjoyed the smell of burnt fuel growing up racing dirt bikes but the smell of my car seemed pretty excessive. Could smell it almost instantly when I would stop at red lights with my windows up. With the windows down it was very strong. Tolerable for me but I know my girlfriend won't be okay with it haha. Hopefully with the o2 sensors back in place it will run a little cleaner.

In the meantime is it ok to run it like this for a couple days? Won't have time to work on it until the weekend. Thanks for the help

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Davidschu

Well I guess that answers it. Thought going catless also meant I could dump the sensors. Weight reduction right lol. Car didn't seem to be running great today so I guess I should put the sensor back in place.

I've always enjoyed the smell of burnt fuel growing up racing dirt bikes but the smell of my car seemed pretty excessive. Could smell it almost instantly when I would stop at red lights with my windows up. With the windows down it was very strong. Tolerable for me but I know my girlfriend won't be okay with it haha. Hopefully with the o2 sensors back in place it will run a little cleaner.

In the meantime is it ok to run it like this for a couple days? Won't have time to work on it until the weekend. Thanks for the help

Not to flame, but did you really think your car would run correctly with no oxygen sensors? I would suggesting doing a little more reading before you start throwing parts on the car, in the future. I wouldn't touch any part of the car unless i fully understood what each part i was touching was doing and the implications for the change were going to be... but maybe that's just me. I hope you at least plugged the O2 bungs and didnt leave 2 open holes in your DP?

As mentioned above, the "top" O2 (toward turbo) is used for all closed loop fuel control. Without it the car defaults to fuel tables which are generally overly rich so as to run as safe as possible. Having said that, the smell is still going to be strong even after you put the O2 back in.

You should install both stock O2s into the VRSF DP. Make sure you put the correct O2 in the correct spot. The wire lengths might prevent you from mixing them up, but this is important. You can't mix up the plugs because they are different, but make sure you plug them back in as you removed them. Watch a YT install video (e.g., Kies) and/or read guides.

[Davidschu]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Not to flame, but did you really think your car would run correctly with no oxygen sensors? I would suggesting doing a little more reading before you start throwing parts on the car, in the future. I wouldn't touch any part of the car unless i fully understood what each part i was touching was doing and the implications for the change were going to be... but maybe that's just me. I hope you at least plugged the O2 bungs and didnt leave 2 open holes in your DP?

As mentioned above, the "top" O2 (toward turbo) is used for all closed loop fuel control. Without it the car defaults to fuel tables which are generally overly rich so as to run as safe as possible. Having said that, the smell is still going to be strong even after you put the O2 back in.

You should install both stock O2s into the VRSF DP. Make sure you put the correct O2 in the correct spot. The wire lengths might prevent you from mixing them up, but this is important. You can't mix up the plugs because they are different, but make sure you plug them back in as you removed them. Watch a YT install video (e.g., Kies) and/or read guides.

I read multiple install guides and also watched the kies install video. Everything I saw was for a catted dp and nothing for catless. The downpipe I received came with the two o2 ports plugged and I assumed that was because you didn't need the o2 sensors installed. So that's how I installed it, and of course I checked to make sure the plugs were tight.

Thought that bm3 made it so I didn't need the o2 sensors due to the readiness check being removed but I was wrong. I'm used to working on small engines that make more power per cc and have no o2 sensors so I thought they were not required. Don't have as much experience with cars so that's why I'm here.

Posted to ask a quick question, no need to flame. I'm a simple diy'er looking for advice, I'm not a professional mechanic. Thank you all for the help

[Munchi435i]

Originally Posted by Davidschu

I read multiple install guides and also watched the kies install video. Everything I saw was for a catted dp and nothing for catless. The downpipe I received came with the two o2 ports plugged and I assumed that was because you didn't need the o2 sensors installed. So that's how I installed it, and of course I checked to make sure the plugs were tight.

Thought that bm3 made it so I didn't need the o2 sensors due to the readiness check being removed but I was wrong. I'm used to working on small engines that make more power per cc and have no o2 sensors so I thought they were not required. Don't have as much experience with cars so that's why I'm here.

Posted to ask a quick question, no need to flame. I'm a simple diy'er looking for advice not a professional mechanic. Thank you all for the help

Honestly, you need to research more before any DIY and you really thought you didn't have to use the o2 sensors?!!

It's there for a reason and other members that have posted after installing a catless downpipe have mentioned being careful when reinstalling the o2 sensors.

That statement I bolded just doesn't make sense. So you only want advice from other DIYers??

[designatedposter]

Originally Posted by Davidschu

Well I guess that answers it. Thought going catless also meant I could dump the sensors. Weight reduction right lol. Car didn't seem to be running great today so I guess I should put the sensor back in place.

I've always enjoyed the smell of burnt fuel growing up racing dirt bikes but the smell of my car seemed pretty excessive. Could smell it almost instantly when I would stop at red lights with my windows up. With the windows down it was very strong. Tolerable for me but I know my girlfriend won't be okay with it haha. Hopefully with the o2 sensors back in place it will run a little cleaner.

In the meantime is it ok to run it like this for a couple days? Won't have time to work on it until the weekend. Thanks for the help

yes, the car stinks pretty bad catless. you shouldnt smell if it your windows are closed though. when you get back to working on it, i would check for leaks. shove some rags into the exhaust pipes to create back pressure to check for leaks at the DP.
some will say it doesn't, but i think they already lost too many brain cells.

[Davidschu]

Originally Posted by Munchi435i

Honestly, you need to research more before any DIY and you really thought you didn't have to use the o2 sensors?!!

It's there for a reason and other members that have posted after installing a catless downpipe have mentioned being careful when reinstalling the o2 sensors.

That statement I bolded just doesn't make sense. So you only want advice from other DIYers??

I clearly missed a word there I meant to say, "I'm a simple diy'er looking for advice I am not a professional mechanic."

I would prefer advice from actually mechanics instead of diy guys like myself but will gladly take advice from either. And refer to my post above on why I thought I didn't need them. Not sure why I'm getting bashed just asked a question

[BradMacklin]

Sorry to ask for a quick bit of info but this thread is lengthy lol.


Is the Bm3 tune available yet for IOS? I have Ethernet cables I can run to a pc if need be but it's a Mac and I hate them lol.

I have the Ethernet cable and adapter to work with IOS but I don't know if it is yet supported through Bm3

[Munchi435i]

Originally Posted by Davidschu

I clearly missed a word there I meant to say, "I'm a simple diy'er looking for advice I am not a professional mechanic."

I would prefer advice from actually mechanics instead of diy guys like myself but will gladly take advice from either. And refer to my post above on why I thought I didn't need them. Not sure why I'm getting bashed just asked a question

Don't be so sensitive about a mistake you made and the responses you get. We've all done something wrong in our lives.

Live, learn and move on my friend!

[JTL88]

looking for some help... I just tried flashing my 435i to bm3 stage 1. The web browser and obd agent tells me that the flash completed successfully, but it tells me "online recode is required. please go to diagnostics and click on Online Recode." However, when I click on Online Recode, I get a response back saying "Flash Needed, you need to run a full flash of some map to your DME first and have it succeed. Online recode is only an option after a successful flash." I've submitted a ticket to PTF but looks like they are closed for the weekend. Wondering if anyone on here had a similar experience and what you did to fix it?

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by BradMacklin

Sorry to ask for a quick bit of info but this thread is lengthy lol.


Is the Bm3 tune available yet for IOS? I have Ethernet cables I can run to a pc if need be but it's a Mac and I hate them lol.

I have the Ethernet cable and adapter to work with IOS but I don't know if it is yet supported through Bm3

PTF


PTF FAQ'S

.

[5soko]

Does BM3 alter their TQ tables or actual tq load reading in the ecu to get around the tcu tq limits in their normal stage 2 OTS maps?

I know alot of tuners do this to a certain extent to get around the tq limits, esp in 3rd and 6th gear.

[perryo91]

I just flashed to 7.0 after being on the previous version for a long time...

Has anyone noticed in sport/sport+ (automatic) the gearbox is more smooth for the first few gears?

Overall it feels more smooth? How did they manage to make shifts smoother without me doing the transmission tune?

[Beamerboy101400]

So I'm trying to flash my f30 335i but I'm having troubles. Firstly after the completion of the flash reaches 100 instead of getting a success message I get a " coding installed" with a exclamation point. And the description goes something like " coding applied, try a full flash" or something like that. What am I doing wrong. And secondly after I go to online recode to clear the codes it says please flash a "full flash". And thirdly after I try and start the car my trans is jerky as fuck. Like everyone I start the car after sitting a while it's really jerky and Sounds like something is bad but after I start driving it goes away. Why am I experiencing these issues

[Beamerboy101400]

Originally Posted by JTL88

looking for some help... I just tried flashing my 435i to bm3 stage 1. The web browser and obd agent tells me that the flash completed successfully, but it tells me "online recode is required. please go to diagnostics and click on Online Recode." However, when I click on Online Recode, I get a response back saying "Flash Needed, you need to run a full flash of some map to your DME first and have it succeed. Online recode is only an option after a successful flash." I've submitted a ticket to PTF but looks like they are closed for the weekend. Wondering if anyone on here had a similar experience and what you did to fix it?

Yes I actually just made a post about this before I saw your comment. I'm having the exact same issue. I try flashing my car but it doesn't say success I get that coding applied message with the exclamation point. And when you try and start the car is the trans really jerky?

[indyjoeshmo]

Is anyone having issues with the dashboard not saving changes on their phone app? I spend 5 minutes updating the dashboard, log out, and close the app, and then when I reopen the app, the dashboard reset to the original settings.

[JTL88]

Originally Posted by Beamerboy101400

Yes I actually just made a post about this before I saw your comment. I'm having the exact same issue. I try flashing my car but it doesn't say success I get that coding applied message with the exclamation point. And when you try and start the car is the trans really jerky?

I dont know. I didn't drive the car after. Waiting for PTF to respond.

[OUGrad05]

My bootmod3 is on the way. I have a couple of questions regarding the N55 application.

I know there's a change to transmission tuning that's available, it bumps up the hydraulic pressure from what I understand? Is this something the user has some control over?

Also, when using bootmod3 is there a difference between comfort, sport and sport+ as there is with the BMW factory tune? Or is it all essentially one tune at that point?