[LCornice]

[QUOTE=FaRKle!;24177240]CCV System and Smog Checks

I had a bit of a rude surprise when redoing my registration this year (other than the >25% increase in registration fees due to CA's new "Gas Tax") in the form of a notice saying I needed to get my car smog checked. In CA with gas cars you don't need to get a smog check for the first six years (when buying new), but I didn't realize that doesn't apply to diesel vehicles, which requires one every other year.

When I brought the car into the local smog place the tech told me I needed to remove the CCV catch can system in order to pass since CA doesn't allow any modification to the CCV/PCV system. This is kind of asinine as a catch can is even cleaner than just recycling the gunk into your intake, but that's government for you... (you can find the thread on the catch can system here).

When I first put in the catch can system I broke the original hose from the CCV outlet to the main intake pipe trying to see if it could be taken apart. Unfortunately, this is the piece I needed to be able to smog the car. Also unfortunately according to RealOEM that piece isn't sold separately, however, the diagram suggests that it should be (or that there might be an alternate part that is). Due to that I looked on the RealOEM page for the Euro 320d and was able to find the part number for the hose. It turns out that there's two versions of the hose. One which is just a straight hose connection (13717823517), and another, which also has a heating element (13718507386). The 328d stock hose has the heating element, and since mine was fine, I figured I'd buy the cheaper version with just the hose since it was about $15 vs $75 for the heating element version.

I went to my local dealer to order the 13717823517 hose, and they initially gave me a price around $30. I wasn't totally opposed to that, but asked if they could price match ECSTuning, who had it for $14 and change. The dealer said they couldn't match, but gave it to me for $15 + tax, which I was more than happy with.

13717823517 CCV Hose


When I got the hose, I noticed that the head of it was a bit different than the stock hose. It has two clamps where the original only has one (and in different locations), doesn't have a holder for the connector next to it (which doesn't matter), and doesn't stick as far out from the CCV outlet before connecting into the tube.

Stock Head Left, New Head Right


Thankfully this wasn't an issue and the head fit and clamped just fine. This is because the clamps don't lock into specific notches, but rather on a flange that goes around almost the entire circumference of the CCV outlet.

CCV Outlet


Since the hose I bought didn't have the heating element the tubular section was longer than required. I cut it down to 6.5" in length, and then inserted it into the rubber reducer/coupler piece on top of the heating element. Once everything was back together I went back to the smog shop and had no issues passing.

No Issues With New Hose


I just wanted to say thanks for your informative posts. I broke the hose when I tried to get my EGR off to clean it. I patched in a 3/4" hose temporarily and ordered the part you referenced. I finally got around to following your instructions and it worked great.

[Chris.let]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Making a rear cover for the G30 iDrive screen

This is a part 2 to Retrofitting a 10.25" iDrive Screen.

This weekend I finally got around to making a rear cover to fill the gap behind the G30 screen and the dash. In my last post I spoke of likely using a material that I could form with a heat gun. I ended doing that afterall, and using Kydex, a type of ABS plastic commonly used in sheaths and holsters. Kydex usually comes in 12"x12" sheets and I ordered them in 0.06" thickness (I've used 0.93" in the past and knew that'd be much thicker than needed for this).

My original idea was to use one single piece of Kydex and and form it around the back then cut it so it lined up with the dash. Unfortunately, I found out a 12" long piece wasn't enough to do this, so I needed to take a 3 piece approach (center and two sides). To secure the Kydex to the rear housing I drilled two small holes in the cover to fasten it with a couple of screws. I then made the two side cover pieces and used some more screws to fasten them to the center rear piece. This was a very iterative process figuring out where I needed to shave more material and then putting the screen in place. Kydex can be broken easily in a straight line by scoring it, and then bending it along the score to snap it. Since it's ABS, it also cuts/grinds down easily with a dremel too.

Screen Rear Cover


Additionally, when I first put the screen in place I saw that the screw holes in the mounts didn't go far enough into the dash to line up with the screw holes there, and that they also sat a bit forward. I used some scrap pieces of 0.93" Kydex to make extensions and also shim the gap between the dash and screen mounts.

Screen Mount Extensions




After mounting the screen with screws, the whole assembly is rock solid. The screws and gaps are noticeable, but I don't think they're really be seen unless someone is looking closely.

Screen Screwed Into Place


Passenger's Side View (view most likely to be seen)


View From Exterior

Just have to say, thank you for posting this. The only screen I could find was from a G30; it came with the NBT EVO_HU I intend to retrofit on my F30. If it wasn’t for this thread I wouldn’t have pulled the trigger and I am happy I did. I haven’t yet installed the screen but I have managed to source Kydex in a 24inch X 12inch. It will manage to cover the whole rear end of the screen. I would like to use something else instead of screws to secure the Kydex to the screen. My goal is to soften the Kydex and mold it nicely behind the screen. I hope it goes well.

Cheers

[Bjames93*]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Making a rear cover for the G30 iDrive screen

This is a part 2 to Retrofitting a 10.25" iDrive Screen.

This weekend I finally got around to making a rear cover to fill the gap behind the G30 screen and the dash. In my last post I spoke of likely using a material that I could form with a heat gun. I ended doing that afterall, and using Kydex, a type of ABS plastic commonly used in sheaths and holsters. Kydex usually comes in 12"x12" sheets and I ordered them in 0.06" thickness (I've used 0.93" in the past and knew that'd be much thicker than needed for this).

My original idea was to use one single piece of Kydex and and form it around the back then cut it so it lined up with the dash. Unfortunately, I found out a 12" long piece wasn't enough to do this, so I needed to take a 3 piece approach (center and two sides). To secure the Kydex to the rear housing I drilled two small holes in the cover to fasten it with a couple of screws. I then made the two side cover pieces and used some more screws to fasten them to the center rear piece. This was a very iterative process figuring out where I needed to shave more material and then putting the screen in place. Kydex can be broken easily in a straight line by scoring it, and then bending it along the score to snap it. Since it's ABS, it also cuts/grinds down easily with a dremel too.

Screen Rear Cover


Additionally, when I first put the screen in place I saw that the screw holes in the mounts didn't go far enough into the dash to line up with the screw holes there, and that they also sat a bit forward. I used some scrap pieces of 0.93" Kydex to make extensions and also shim the gap between the dash and screen mounts.

Screen Mount Extensions




After mounting the screen with screws, the whole assembly is rock solid. The screws and gaps are noticeable, but I don't think they're really be seen unless someone is looking closely.

Screen Screwed Into Place


Passenger's Side View (view most likely to be seen)


View From Exterior

Is this available