[Ashleymfmedina]

I'm having the same problem with my 2014 328i my connector is melted like yours do you have any pics of how you fixed it

[Billfitz]

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[John S]

Originally Posted by KillshotVisuals

This is my first time posting in this forum even though I have always found great answers to most of my car related issues on here. I did this repair on my 2013 BMW 335i yesterday and decided to just film it to hopefully help others who were in the same boat as me. I am by no means an expert so if I did anything wrong or inefficiently, I don't mind constructive criticism. Hope this helps at least a few people

I am also planning on doing a very in depth write up about the issue when I have a little more time but for now, all I have is the video. If you are very familiar with removing the brake light assembly, know which parts to purchase, and know for a fact that your connector is melted, skip to 6:10 to avoid unnecessary talking and get straight to the repair. Thanks guys!

Hi All, newbie from the UK here. I have this exact issue with my 2014, F33 428i Convertible. Comforted and alarmed in equal measure to discover it's a common fault, but very grateful to read all of the insights and fixes.

I plan to replace the light housing and connector myself, but the only 6 pin connector I can find here in the UK claims to be for a 2 series. Does anyone know please if these connectors are standard across a number of model ranges?

[Billfitz]

Look it up at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

[John S]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Look it up at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

Thanks. Tried that previously, no sign at all of what I need. Plenty of 12, 4 3 & 2 pin "Repair Kit for Socket Housing" listed for my model, but not a sniff of the relevant 6 pin socket housing. The closest I could find was a complete wiring harness that I definitely don't want!

Anyone would think that BMW doesn't want you to find it!

EDIT: decided to simply bypass the socket for the earth wire and managed to complete the repair. So far this has worked, but how long the soldered joint will last remains to be seen.

[arathur]

I started getting the rear left brake light error a few months ago and it would come very intermittently. I checked myself and the light was actually working, so I kept ignoring the error. It got to the point that the error message became permanent, and I just discovered that my left rear brake light really is out now. I replaced both the left rear brake light and even the left turn signal light too (didn't know which bulb was which at first), but I discovered my brake light was still not working, and then a few days later my left turn signal stopped working as well (then spontaneously started working again). I opened up the brake light again and verified that the connecter was fried just like the pictures people posted here.

I had an appointment with the dealership today and told them beforehand that I already knew what the problem was, that I had already tried replacing the bulbs just in case. I showed them the readout from my Carly BMW app mentioning the error code. I reminded them that I already knew it was a well-known design-related malfunction and not normal wear and tear. I told them that I expected my certified preowned warranty to cover the full cost. They told me they would look into it.

After 2 hours (!) of working on it, they told me I was correct and they charged me only the $50 deductible w/ $3.00 tax.

I'm glad I took care of this now because I only have 14 days of CPO warranty left.

[Billfitz]

There's a reason why it's usually the left side. When sitting at a light or stop sign and making a left turn the brake light and turn signal both draw current, overheating the connector. If you're making a right turn you're not likely to sit for anywhere near as long with the brake lights on and turn signal flashing as when making a left turn, so it's less prone to overheating. I bet UK drivers will say that they have this problem with their right rear lamps.

[pw0n]

Anyone know if I can upgrade to LCI tail lights w/ this issue? Anyone got pics of the LCI tail lights housing? Would love to see if there's a blade receptacle to attach the ground to.

[x328x]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There's a reason why it's usually the left side. When sitting at a light or stop sign and making a left turn the brake light and turn signal both draw current, overheating the connector. If you're making a right turn you're not likely to sit for anywhere near as long with the brake lights on and turn signal flashing as when making a left turn, so it's less prone to overheating. I bet UK drivers will say that they have this problem with their right rear lamps.

We drive on the left side. The left light malfunction. Ended up doing the bypass

[narsoun]

Hi i have an issue i did the repair using a 16awg cable. I soldered the brown (ground) cable to the 16 awg, then i rooted it through the white gasket seal and finally i connected it with a disconnect terminal (female). and seal the seal with some epoxy.

Evrything worked fint BUT after 1h of drive, i got a rear left parking brake mulfunction, one hour later left rear turn signal malfunction.

I need your help, i tried everything, dielectric grease... what can cause that ?

[narsoun]

So turns out my problem is still here but I might have a clue.

So i cutter the old solder and re did it with proper soldering skills, soldered with some soldering paste and on top of it dielectric grease + electric tape.

1 week later I have the rear brake light malfunction light.

It's turning me crazy I really need your help ! Have you any idea how I can take care of that ?

[Billfitz]

'Soldering paste' tells me you used solder and flux intended for plumbing. Electrical solder is totally different. You wouldn't use dielectric grease on a soldered joint either.

[narsoun]

Soldering paste help to prevent any oxydation of the copper during the heating process and insure a good distribution of the tin + it's a dedicated paste for electric soldering.

Dielectric grease helps for good conductivity, prevent any future corrosion and it's a good heat dissipation.

There is no reason that the solder is bad.

What would you have done differently ?

EDIT:

One of the bulb was a little bit dark but was working fine, do you think it can be the issue, changing the bulbs lol ?

[Billfitz]

I only use rosin core solder for electrical work. I've probably used fifty pounds of it over the last 55 years.

[narsoun]

Rosin is the best for soldering electrical stuff.

I'll attemp the bulb replacement, since the car is 5 years old (it won't hurt) and bulb was a bit blackish + burn mark on the positive side. If it's not working Rosin might the answer. Because honnestly i have no idea

Because honnestly here is my training solder i did the exact same thing on my car...

http://share.icloud.com/photos/0Erzz...bEW4K9SpUZhXDQ

[sqwinny]

Check the harness as well. Mine was corroded inside the clip itself. I literally had to take each cord out, clean it, reassemble, and it was good as new. Left inner as well. Afterwards I swapped to LCI tails but it's there.

[jdwrght55]

My passenger side tail light was beginning to fry on my F32. pw0n already explained it earlier, but here is how I did it:

I put the female connector on the random extra tab that sticks out and wired it out of the way and through the extra hole. I put a bit of hot glue on it so it doesn't get pulled out of place as easy.


I filled in the back of the hole with hot glue to try to keep moisture out. From there I added a male connector to the end of my new wire and left extra length to make it easier to service.


I just decided to cut the ground wire and top it off with the female connector. Now I can easily unplug it with the rest of the harness when I want to remove the tail light.

[narsoun]

Ok here is my latest update. My solder was perfect nothing wrong with it. Like i previoulsy said i wanted to change the bulb since it's inexpensive.

Turns out the ends of the bulbs were burnt, i use a sand paper on all the end of the sockets, replaced both bulbs with fresh one, put some dielectric grease on the ends.

It's been a week nothing happened, i can officialy say, my problem is 100% fixed


(How can i show pics ?, I think my fix design could help)

[305f30]

Hey guys, I've had the melted brake light connector problem before. My advice to anybody experiencing this problem is to definitely change out those halogens to LEDs..or else the current draw of the halogens will continue to melt the connector. It's also an easer alternative for those uncomfortable with soldering. I switched to LEDs in the rear about 6 months ago and haven't had anymore issues.

[Billfitz]

True that, but be aware that LEDs must be coded. There's no such thing as plug and play LED.

[305f30]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

True that, but be aware that LEDs must be coded. There's no such thing as plug and play LED.

Oh absolutely, coding is a must for LEDs. I coded everything with Bimmercode in less than 5 mins, pretty straightforward process. No flashing or any issues at all after coding.

[Billfitz]

+1. The problem is that sellers of LEDs don't tell you this.